Goodhand

Hi all,


I've been reading for about a year now, but this is my first post! Here goes...


Over a month ago, I replaced the fuel pump and filter because it was necessary. The car ran as usual after this, but had a rough start before and after this job- though the pump and filter helped with this a bit.


A few weeks later, I did a clutch job. The clutch job went great, but the car had an erratic spark afterwards so I deduced I had pinched a wire or a sensor or something. I diagnosed both crank sensors as bad, as well as the cam sensor. I have now replaced all 3, still no spark. I checked the circuit for each and made a repair to the cam sensor circuit as it was the only one that was bad.


I have checked all coils, they all get voltage but I believe 2 are bad. But the car should still start so that probably is not the issue. I will replace those when (...if...) I get it running again. Ignition condenser is good.


I have confirmed egi relay works, and the eccs fusible links and fuses are good.


Battery has charge, pulling about 12.6V. I have checked grounds, improved the main chassis ground and added a ground between the block and bell housing.


This vehicle does not have a chip in the key, so it is not a security immobilizer.


The only codes thrown are EGR valve and EVAP(But we unplug the fuel pump fuse which I believe is causing this).


I have another car to get around, but the guys I rent a garage with are getting tired of dancing around this large, bricked vehicle while working on theirs... any help is appreciated!


Also, I have reason to believe the screwball that sold me this car had it converted from A/T to M/T- to guarantee nobody is in the same boat I guess lol

Edit: It cranks all day, I think I forgot to add this!

Edit 2: it is a 98 gle, which was my first clue to discovering it must be a transmission swap.

Goodhand

At this point I have tried so much, EXCEPT FOR dropping the trans again and verifying alignment of the flywheel. I guess that's as good a lead as any for now! I will report back once I have had the opportunity to check.

JvG

This is a common issue. Part of the clutch job is sanding the mating surfaces of the enine and transmission. This serves as an engine ground path.

Failure to sand the surfaces causes running issues like you are having.

A work-around is to install a ground wire between to engine block and a good ground.

Goodhand

I have done this, as I said in the OP. I really dont want to drop the trans again, but if I am going to have to in order to verify the flywheel timing...

KP11520

Why do people show up and NOT give basic details like MODEL YEAR?

Cause if it's a 99, NATS would be my first guess.

Goodhand

I guess it slipped my mind. It is a 98.

...even though I said the key is not chipped...

KP11520

How are you determining you have spark in at least 4 cylinders?

So now that NATS is off the table, do you have a pick a part JY near you? First thing I'd try (cheap) is a MAF. Symptoms before the clutch would include a bad MAF and/or maybe a vacuum leak to throw another wrench in the gears.

Solving puzzles..... Sometimes it's NOT so fun. LOL

Goodhand

Would the MAFS throw a code though? I mean that's easy enough to access I can check it though.

I have determined no spark in all cylinders first using the grounded plug method. I think my buddy used an oscilloscope when I wasn't at the shop and determined a weak pulse at each coil harness. Weak as in not enough to spark. We checked with a voltmeter as well.

To boot, I checked the coil packs- 2 are bad but that's enough to start it right? OP talked about it.

KP11520

We've seen MAFs intermittently failing and took a while before kicking a code. That's why a cheap one from a JY that works is nice to keep on a shelf.

When swapping the clutch, did you adjust the pedal under the dash?? Could the ignition wires been compromised/shorted? Any work on the ignition switch or cylinder?

I've always been suspect of no spark claims as most use clunky ways to so called "test" for it. I'd love to know if Nissan has a published fool proof process. Then we'd reallly know.

If the voltage is weak going to the coil packs, what's upstream that could influence that? ECM? ECM harness and connections? What runs near pulling the transmission? Short from a stretch? Bad coil packs might operate fine with full voltage and amps available. Investigate what the real spark situation is before buying new related parts.

I'd bet you have multiple problems and that's why there's no clear path.

If this car was converted from an Auto, Isn't there a Park/Neutral safety switch that ties into the ignition? I'm not sure if it won't crank if not there or maybe no spark?

Glad I got my own problems with mine. Right now, mine are better. LOL Good luck!