Troubleshooting Starting and Charging System Problems.
02-26-2020, 09:41 AM
#1
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tampa Fl
Posts: 133
Troubleshooting Starting and Charging System Problems.
Good morning team,
I bought a red 1996 Nissan Maxima yesterday as a kick around car and its got some electrical gremlins. When you jump it, the car starts, runs and drives with no problems. However I noticed that after a few hours of getting the car home, the battery drained and the car wouldn't start. The vehicle has a new alternator, a new-ish starter (from what I can see) and a new battery, purchased by the vehicle's previous owner. I thought it had a parasitic drain, however when I hooked up my volt meter to the battery, the drain on the battery when the vehicle is completely off, is only .2-3 mA, which is well within range. The battery light isn't on inside either.
Another example is that I had the car running for a bit, and then turned it off, left it off for about 2 minutes, and then attempted to turn it back on and it would just "click click click click click".
I don't know where else to go from here, and any help would be appreciated.
I bought a red 1996 Nissan Maxima yesterday as a kick around car and its got some electrical gremlins. When you jump it, the car starts, runs and drives with no problems. However I noticed that after a few hours of getting the car home, the battery drained and the car wouldn't start. The vehicle has a new alternator, a new-ish starter (from what I can see) and a new battery, purchased by the vehicle's previous owner. I thought it had a parasitic drain, however when I hooked up my volt meter to the battery, the drain on the battery when the vehicle is completely off, is only .2-3 mA, which is well within range. The battery light isn't on inside either.
Another example is that I had the car running for a bit, and then turned it off, left it off for about 2 minutes, and then attempted to turn it back on and it would just "click click click click click".
I don't know where else to go from here, and any help would be appreciated.
02-26-2020, 02:30 PM
#3
I would also check the grounds associated with the “new-ish” starter.
Specifically, the mating surface/interface between the starter housing and the bell-housing ... the engine surface to which the starter bolts to.
Both the bell-housing surface and the starter surface need to be clean and lubricant, coating, paint, powder coat, other free as this is a significant and important ground for our starting systems.
Specifically, the mating surface/interface between the starter housing and the bell-housing ... the engine surface to which the starter bolts to.
Both the bell-housing surface and the starter surface need to be clean and lubricant, coating, paint, powder coat, other free as this is a significant and important ground for our starting systems.
02-26-2020, 02:43 PM
#4
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tampa Fl
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I have yet to do that, as I'm not sure how. Is there an easy way to do that?
02-27-2020, 03:58 AM
#5
Buy a voltmeter, and set it to the DC-volts scale, and then red lead to positive terminal of battery, and black lead to negative terminal of battery. YouTube will probably have a few hundred videos of the procedure.
02-27-2020, 07:10 AM
#6
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02-27-2020, 07:26 AM
#7
02-27-2020, 07:54 AM
#8
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Join Date: May 2009
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However this weekend this car is getting some love. I'm gonna be doing all the valve cover gaskets, plugs, knock sensor (while I'm at it) and EGR tube gasket. Since I've never done the job, what are the tools I'm gonna need? I think I just need a 10 and 12 MM sockets and extensions right?
02-27-2020, 10:17 AM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Since the upper intake manifold will be removed, you might consider doing some other maintainence work while you are in there.
Specifically the egr tube which looks like a door handle. It tends to clog with carbon deposits.
One removes the tube, pour a solvent like kerosene or carb cleaner in it. Let soak. Scrub inside with a flexible metal brush.
Then there is the matter of the fuel injecters.
They like to leak sooner or later. It's a good idea to install new or rebuilt ones. Only do the ones or the rear bank for now.
You probably don't want to or need to do this right now. Just be aware that you will need to remove the upper intake manifold again in the future.
Specifically the egr tube which looks like a door handle. It tends to clog with carbon deposits.
One removes the tube, pour a solvent like kerosene or carb cleaner in it. Let soak. Scrub inside with a flexible metal brush.
Then there is the matter of the fuel injecters.
They like to leak sooner or later. It's a good idea to install new or rebuilt ones. Only do the ones or the rear bank for now.
You probably don't want to or need to do this right now. Just be aware that you will need to remove the upper intake manifold again in the future.
02-27-2020, 11:14 AM
#10
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Tampa Fl
Posts: 133
Since the upper intake manifold will be removed, you might consider doing some other maintainence work while you are in there.
Specifically the egr tube which looks like a door handle. It tends to clog with carbon deposits.
One removes the tube, pour a solvent like kerosene or carb cleaner in it. Let soak. Scrub inside with a flexible metal brush.
Then there is the matter of the fuel injecters.
They like to leak sooner or later. It's a good idea to install new or rebuilt ones. Only do the ones or the rear bank for now.
You probably don't want to or need to do this right now. Just be aware that you will need to remove the upper intake manifold again in the future.
Specifically the egr tube which looks like a door handle. It tends to clog with carbon deposits.
One removes the tube, pour a solvent like kerosene or carb cleaner in it. Let soak. Scrub inside with a flexible metal brush.
Then there is the matter of the fuel injecters.
They like to leak sooner or later. It's a good idea to install new or rebuilt ones. Only do the ones or the rear bank for now.
You probably don't want to or need to do this right now. Just be aware that you will need to remove the upper intake manifold again in the future.
For budgetary reasons I'm gonna leave the fuel injectors alone. They're $50-90 a pop and even if I found a cheap deal online, its already Thursday and I wouldn't be able to get them this weekend. I'll replace them if they fail later.
02-27-2020, 01:05 PM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
Regarding the injectors......
They can be rebuilt for about 18 dollars each.
I sent mine to RX Injector in the Houston area.
I sent mine through Priority Mail at the Post Office. They send them back the same way.
Their do same day service.
they clean the injector's and flow test them.
Like new performance .
The injector's you have will fail.
Replace all three under the manifold if one of them leaks.
Good luck on your project.
They can be rebuilt for about 18 dollars each.
I sent mine to RX Injector in the Houston area.
I sent mine through Priority Mail at the Post Office. They send them back the same way.
Their do same day service.
they clean the injector's and flow test them.
Like new performance .
The injector's you have will fail.
Replace all three under the manifold if one of them leaks.
Good luck on your project.
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