maximanut2001

Car info:

• 2001 Maxima GLE with 135,000 miles.
• No check engine light. No alternator/charging light. No warning lights of any kind for that matter.
• Battery is not dry (appears full/normal). Battery connections are clean on the battery side (no corrosion), but can't see if there is corrosion on that positive cable leading to the starter. Battery was replaced in December 2017. Battery has sticker saying 11/2017.
• Security system light flashes red periodically as normal. You can shut the car door and activate the alarm as normal.
• Interior lights work as normal when opening door.
• PS pressure and suction hoses replaced December 2019.
• Starter was replaced June 2016.

Problem:
Stopped at the store and came out and I get the classic dead battery attempted start (crank is weak and turns maybe one time). Wait 5 minutes, get exact same classic dead battery attempted start. Pull out the jumper cables and get a friendly jump start from someone in the parking lot (connected jumper cables, waited maybe 30 seconds, and started it). Car fired right up as normal with the jump start. Drive 3-4 miles home (it's night so lights are on) without any accessories running. Let car sit and idle for 3-4 minutes after getting home. Turn off car. Wait 3-4 minutes. Attempt to start and get the same classic dead battery attempted start (perhaps even just a bit weaker).

Question:

Is this simply an indication of battery that needs replaced? Given the battery has an 11/2017 sticker, it seems a little early for a battery to go dead, but I suppose things just don't last as long these days. Nothing special about the battery as I simply bought it back then around 11/2017 or so at the local O'Reilly.

If it is a failing alternator, wouldn't I expect to see a charging light warning? Perhaps it hasn't failed enough yet....

Quikjeff

Jump the car again and test voltage at the battery. If you have better than 13v then your alternator is not to blame. Get a battery. The nice folks at autozone, o'Reilly's, etc. Can test that battery and see if it is trashed. They are made so cheaply now it would not be a shocker if your young battery is trash.

maxiiiboy

With your lights and defroster off, your charging voltage should be at least 14V to declare your alternator good.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

she dead

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

i got a low grade battery in 2017, and it died last month, keep it simple and do the battery, some low grade batteries will only last 2-3 years max, i got the better battery this time around and hope to get 3-5 years.

it does feel like batteries used to last a lot more, but i think it is the quality and you have to spend more for them to last now.

maximanut2001

Jumpstarted this morning. Drove to OReilly's and had them test the battery. It checked out at 12V and "battery good" with their little tester. So, I had them give me a jump start and I drove 3-4 more miles to work. From there, I sat in the parking lot with the car running for about 10-15 minutes. I turned the car off, counted to 3 and started her back up. The only other different thing I did was turn off the automatic daytime running lights/fog lights so that they would not be drawing any juice while the alternator tried to charge the battery.

Over the December time period, my car had set for 15-20 days because I had some delivery issues getting the PS pressure hose that needed replaced. However, the car had started up just fine as I moved it to the garage for that part replacement. Only other thing is my drive to work is only about 12 minutes so maybe that is effecting battery life (and ability to get charged).

So now what do you guys think? I can still go get the battery replaced but just trying not to drop $150 if I don't have to. I'm going to head out at lunch and see if she will start again.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Get a voltmeter and start the car. Measure the voltage at any spot you find convenient, across the battery is pretty convenient. The voltage should be around 14 volts. the specs are 14.1 to 14.7 volts. Voltages lower than 13.5 are questionable. Check the belt tension on the alternator.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

do they accept returns on the battery if that isn't the issue? maybe ask or ask the guy and see if you can convince him !? again i was in a similar position, and sometimes the simple answer is all it is. (battery)
when i went to buy the battery, they asked if I wanted them to check the old battery, but i declined, thinking it just going to add confusion if the old battery checked out "ok"

maximanut2001

So, I went out out lunch today and the car started right up. I let her sit and idle for about 10 minutes. Then I drove down to a local CVS that also has an AutoZone next to it. Went into CVS for 10-15 minutes. Came back out and she started right up again.

I'm guessing the battery has been low after sitting most of December and then the short drives that I take to work with daytime running lights, stereo, heater and heated seats in the morning was not allowing the battery to get charged back up enough. When it died yesterday, it had been my 3rd stop after work. Regardless, I am going to run in the daytime without the daytime running lights/fog lights on for a week. Note that I have been using the DRL/fog lights since forever. I'll forego using the stereo for a week also. As far as climate, I live in NorCal and it is a bit cool in the morning since my car is not garaged (wife gets that spot).

Also, I have voltmeter at home and will check the voltage across the battery when running to see if I am above 14V (14.1to 14.7).

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

No, battery is bad. Give it time, it'll let you down, again. When they're defective they act stupid.
I highly doubt you would have been driving (issue free at least) if the alternator was bad and battery was basically completely dead.

Battery tests mean nothing, FYI. It depends on whether it's acting stupid at the moment or not. I take the battery in and demand a replacement whether it tests good or not. I've had a battery test at 700A that couldn't crank the engine AT ALL.

maximanut2001

I don't disagree. Just hoping to get lucky that the car/battery had been run down due to sitting for 2-3 weeks. Looking around online, looks like I can get a replacement from Costco for $90. Their exchange/warranty always a bit easier....

maximanut2001

OK, got home and put the voltmeter across the battery after work.

1. Came home. Left car running. No lights, radio or climate controls the whole ride home - Voltmeter read: 13.6
2. About 90 minutes later (no issues starting car):

A. Initial startup of car. No lights, radio or climate controls. - Voltmeter read: 14.2
B. Turn on headlights: Voltmeter: 13.6
C. Turn on headlights and foglights: Voltmeter: 12.8
D. Turn on headlights, foglights, radio and climate control full blast: Voltmeter: 12.2
E. Turn off headlights foglights, radio and climate control: Voltmeter: 13.6....then climbed to 13.8

Serpentine belt appears fine with no cracks, etc. Couldn't get my hand all the way down there to try a "twist test" to check tension, but there is no squealing of the belt at any time that I have heard. Note that the Power Steering Pressure Hose was replaced due to leaking. It is a little bit messy back in that corner of the engine bay due to the leaking, but nothing terrible. The serpentine belt itself does not look wet at any time.

So is my alternator headed for the graveyard? If so, where is the best place and price to get a replacement? Note: I'd look to have the serpentine belt and ps belt changed at the same time as I suspect they are original.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Well, you were right. VRM is toast. Idk how you maintained enough voltage to drive fine with a drained battery. Quite a unique case. Lights should have been on. That voltage is way too low. I don't think the ECU is doing its job (just looked it up, looks like light doesn't come on until output is nothing, very dumb).
I guess it was just above the low battery limit, too, since still in the 12s.

I haven't had any problems with alternators from advance. Prices aren't too awful with 25% code (everything is so overpriced at stores now that it just brings it down to normal).

maximanut2001

What's common to replace in this alternator replacement job?

These three (3) seem obvious choices cuz you're there:
Alternator (obviously)
Serpentine belt
Power steering belt

Other:
Idler pulley?
Any other miscellaneous parts in that area that fall apart or need replaced in this job?

Note: Last time I replaced an alternator was on a 1977 280Z. That by far was a much easier job (haha).

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

No, but it's actually easy. Just let compressor hang after removing the bracket, then alternator comes right out.

cdoublejj

Also check and clean your grounds and slather in dielectric grease it actually helps protect connection long term

slvr2KSE5

That's a bad alt. Should be about to maintain at least 13.6 with all loads.

Battery at rest is 12.6 anything below that means the battery is discharging.


Best is either reman from Nissan or a denso. If you don't mind having to possibly change a few and getting stranded at random get one from advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc.

krismax

iTrader: (15)

I agree these are junk ..."advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly, etc."

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

and our cars are so old that even when you get a Nissan one, its just reman. FYI. but still better than a retail store brand.

i replaced mine around 2013 i believe

pastaben

How come a starter going bad is not one of the possibilities? Just curious. My 2001 GLE a few months ago also had intermittent non-start, even after I replaced battery. Turned out to be starter.

maxiiiboy

It's not ...... not when you can jump-start.

maximanut2001

I replaced the starter on this car a few years ago. When the starter was going bad, there would be a "click click" sound but no crank.

I still haven't gotten around to ordering a replacement alternator yet. I am hoping to get a chance to clean up the ground cables this weekend also.

JvG

You are going to have to deal with two rubber hoses which are attached to the lower rear side if the intake manifold. You will need some kind of pliers to deal with those.

You will want to plug those hose's to keep fom losing coolant.

there are also water hoses which attach to the throttle body . I leave the hoses on the tb. I unbolt the tb from the manifold. Be careful not to rip the gasket.

You might want to clean the tb with crc tb cleaner and a toothbrush.

Might as well clean out the intake air control valve with carb cleaner.

Again, this might be more involved than you want to deal with right now.

Ideally one would do all I recommend . The car would be quite reliable and run very well.

I also have a 1996, and have done all theset things.

Please do some researchelp before you start this task. It's not bad, but more difficult than it appears the first time.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

yes! this is true, a starter a click click with no cranking what soever. an alternator cranks over and stumbles or feels drainy similar to battery issues but worse, my alternator issues were stalling while driving and barely being able to drive a few miles with out stalling out. my starter just went last week after 18 years. id say thats a good starter.

the new starter i got is just a reman.

so with that said I have replaced alternator and starter now. they were different symptoms and in hindsight easy to decipher between the two.

maximanut2001

As the OP for this topic, an update: A little over a month later, and I have not replaced the alternator. No starting issues. The only real change I have made is I no longer run the Daytime Running Lights (DRL). No issues with starting. I haven't had time to even work on the car, but it is my daily driver.

One thing I needed/want to do is go through the ground cables. I read that poor ground can have a possible effect on the voltmeter numbers I was seeing at the battery.