max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

as stated, i got a code after putting new plugs in and cleaning the intake and it was the maf. cleaned it and 2 seconds later i got a code for it. i went to rock auto and found a delphi and was told they are pretty solid. 120.00 shipped, anyone else use this brand? would like to get an oem but too expensive, unless someone knows where to get one cheap. not putting another used one in, they always fail a few months later and i'm probably selling the max in a few months. thanks---

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

I bought the Duralast brand from Autozone several years ago and have no issues with it ... as I recall I paid like $149.

I see, though, that that particular label isn’t offered by Autozone anymore.

Let me find the original box, get a part # and see if a cross-reference is available, since Duralast stuff is always someone else’s part.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

from what i've read and seen, the delphi is made by jegs corporation and is rated really highly among people who have used it. local parts shops around here want 180.00 and up for it. probably getting the delphi.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

IMO Delphi electronics are GM crap....I can't trust it! Lol....

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

they're closest to oem spec which i wanted. plus the price was right and a 1 year warranty so i'm just trying to get her running well enough to drive her and all other brands for this part are total crap imo

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

have you tried Rock Auto? I usually get parts from them.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

it was cheaper on amazon, plus, delphi said they were backed up in the warehouse and it would take 2-3 weeks to get here from rock auto. it will be here Saturday from amazon cause they have it in stock.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Cool deal. Let us know if that solves your problem.
you know there is a way to test the MAF to see if it’s working. I believe it’s in the Haynes Manuel.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

yeah, i unplugged it and the max started right up!!!

komik

If you have a soldering iron, you can fix your old MAF and keep running it. I picked up a couple from a junkyard awhile back. I swapped one and it fixed my problem temporarily while I took apart my original one to solder redundant jumper wires from the board to the plug. I've been running my repaired original 304,000 mile MAF for three years now with no more issues. I still have a few spare good used ones on hand just in case.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

welp, wish i had the skills and the patience to do that. you could sell a few of these to some people in need, ( wish ida known about this, i would've asked to buy one from you.

glycine4

Was the original one not working because the jumper wire in the original one was disconnected or cut? What was exactly wrong with it?
I do soldering all the time. I usually fix old computer monitors by replacing the blown capacitors. Real easy fix.
I even fixed a dead PC motherboard after a bios update by buying a used MOBO from ebay (DELL) and changing out the dead bios chip with the new used one. That one is tricky cause the chip connectors are really thin.

komik

There's an old thread on here where I first learned to do this. Those pics are from my post years ago following up on that one. But if you need another MAF later, I still have two good ones in stock. I'd be happy to help out another member here if I can. When I first bought my car 13 years ago, this site is where I got a coilpack to get it running right. Parts are getting harder to find. If any of us are going to keep these old things on the road for a few more years, we'll have to work together.

The factory solder joints break either on the board or at the pins that plug into the harness. The jumper wires give the current an alternate path if the original still doesn't work after re-soldering the old joints.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

replaced the maf with the delphi i got from amazon and the max is running straight again. no more stalling, no more exhaust smoke and she's running almost perfect ( she is 25 years old ). as much as i hated to throw more money into her again, i wanted to be able to drive her w/o the worry of constant issues. cleaned the k&n and re-oiled it as well as cleaned out the intake. happy 4 now

anolkayn

Have you tried Rock Auto? I usually get parts from them.


snaptube vidmate

MattR228

Hi all. I found the forum looking for troubleshooting advice for my 1997 Nissan Maxima GXE AT (39k miles). Just got it and had an occasional rough idle/die out to include hesitation and jerking at speed. It threw DTC codes up for knock sensor - replaced KS but same issues happened. Eventually got DTC for the MAF. MAF replaced and all good so far! Probably going to clean the IACV next. Did a quick clean of the TB but need to go back and do it right. Thanks for the help!

glycine4

If you are doing IACV cleaning, try to clean the EGR tube at the same time (it's kind of a pain to take off) which is right near it. It maybe filled with carbon soot. Mine was as well at around 90,000 miles. And don't forget to buy a new gasket for that pipe. (gasket goes on the top part). There is a trick to take it off where you have to use a small hack saw to take off about 3 mm off one of the bolt that sticks out (pipe is held down by two nuts on the bottom and two nuts on the top part). One of the stud bolts that sticks out is slightly long. You can stick a small saw (5 inch length I think) and saw that portion of the bolt off and it's much easier to take the pipe off. The top part just comes off after removing the two nuts. It's the bottom part that will get stuck due to that one stud due to no room there.

Here is link to another member's very detailed pictures of cleaning. You will see EGR tube there. He also used a saw to lop off the bottom bolt. I also used his method to clean out the stuff.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-tb-iacv.html