Hello, I have a 95 maxima with the 3.0l and having a electrical issues. I replaced the alternator in February and since I have had a loud whining noise and often times have the car die. But the car would crank right back up no problem. I decided to drop alternator and get tested. I noticed I sandwiched the terminal of alternator between the nut provided with alternator and the nut I had originally. Cranked up great but still had whine. Cut it off and took car off jackstands and now the gauges are out and nothing in accessories work and will not crank. Battery connections have been cleaned and double checked but still nothing. If anyone could help with any advice, it would be appreciated.

 

Check the health/voltage of the alternator with the car idling using a multimeter. Many videos on Youtube showing the procedure. A bad alternator may have drained your battery now. Recharge battery, start car and run some tests. Put a stethoscope to the alternator ($5 at Harbor Freight) and see if the whine is coming from the alternator. If so, you got a dud and it will need to be replaced again.

 

Hard to check voltage now cause car wont even turn on with accessories but the battery is 4 years old. About two weeks ago, I checked voltage to battery when running and it was at 14 volts. AutoZone tested it and it passed. Did I possible short something out when re installing the alternator? When I put the negative cable on after it sparked a good bit. Little lost cause I'm more of a suspension guy not a electronics guy.

 

Was the alternator output tested with a load? (All lights, flashers, a/c on Max, etc)

 

I don't know it was tested by local autozone i dont know how they test it. But it passed 3 times

 

What you need to do is go over the car with a fine tooth, and look for anything that is melted. Follow the alternator cable all the way back to the battery, make sure its not poked or pinched by anything. Next step is to make sure you plugged in or have bypassed the oe positive terminal (2) connector plugs, They supply power to the fuse box. Cut the ends off and hook them directly to the battery.. if that does not work.. keep tracing the circuit back until you find the fault..

Under the dash at the ignition switch connector, make sure the connector is not burnt up either. Go buy a cheap DVOM, a test light at the min, and trace it..

Not alll alternators fail in the same way... As with anything it can test good and still Fail.

I have wintnessed time and time again, where a Nissan alternator charges fine Cold. But after about a 15 min hot soak it will just died # Done

My suggestion is to jump the battery, and install your Voltmeter on its Terminals, watch and wait while the car runs once you have figured out the starting issue and see what it does for ab 30 mins at idle and go from there. if you suspect the alternator to be the issue on car testing is best.

As to the whining noise of the alt, could be excessive load or just crap parts... Tbh, no one makes a decent house brand aftermarket alternator for nissan . I most times prefer a OEM used one over an aftermarket reman for Nissans. The failure rate is High.

 

Interested in the outcome/fix result. I recently installed a hitachi alt from rockauto. Have had a silly ground noise from hell in some switches when they are used (window, blower fan) plus a battery light at night only when stopping. Battery is 2yo, car has 106k. Didnt have any ground noise problems with old alt except the dimming of headlights when i hit the brakes, or turn signal making headlights fade in and out. Batt checks @12.6v engine off, 14.4v running. 13.9v-14.1v with full load(headlights on brights ,fogs on ,hazards on, ac fan on high, brake pedal depressed, radio on and moving seat.)

 

Sorry for disappearance, had to put maxima aside to work on some Chevy issues. Started looking at wiring and noticed the 140amp fuse for battery was blown worse than the broncos in super bowl 2014. not a single parts store had one in stock so waiting from july12-16 for the fuse to continue looking. will then try to solve alternator whine.

 

Can try junk yards for fuse.

 

There is a 5 amp or 7 amp fuse in the box under the left side of the driver's side dash that probably popped with a short. Lower half maybe in the middle IIRC.

It makes many gauges not work AND makes it that a perfect alternator doesn't charge the battery.

If it keeps happening, you have a short somewhere (maybe intermittent) around the alternator area. Alternator harness would be the first culprit.

 

its been a month waiting on another 140 amp fuse. first one i replaced the second i put the negative terminal on after the positive, crazy arc and fuse blown. junkyards round me nissans are picked clean second they touch the lot. i must have a short somewhere and i am thinking something to do with the alternator. any one has any ideas please let me know

 

figured it all out for the next guy. alternator and the main wire that bolts to alternator to the 140 amp fuse was shorted. replaced both and engine runs fine again. thanks yall

 

Good to hear. And thanks for reporting how it got resolved.