KP11520

So I only found one bolt holding the back of the UIM to the brackets. 13mm head. NOT the Nissan size. So I went looking on Nissan and the part 08070-8161a is discontinued (I need 2)

Nissan DOESN'T give any info on size. Bastids. I know the head is supposed to be 12mm. Anybody know the length and M size and what washer or spacer is applicable?

My EGR Tube looks to be clean at the UIM mount as it was replaced about 3 years ago (the old one rotted and perf'd.), but I want to remove it and make sure the other end is clean like new as well. I have both gaskets. Is there any way to loosen that zinc plated pipe that is too close to remove the bolt or is cutting the end of the stud the only way? Mind you, the EGR tube is newer and the stud wasn't cut, so there is another way to make this happen. And probably less annoying!

Calling on you guys with the most fun experience! LOL

Thanks in advance!

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

8mmx1.25. Threads are 16mm long.

I have some of you want them, just pm me your address.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

These?

KP11520

Wow JS!

Thank you for the info and offer. Local Hardware has these in Flange Head like you show in the Picture! And that is a sexy picture! If they have them in 12MM Socket size, they'll run about a $1.

If not, I might take you up on your offer!

I know it's sad that I think that's a sexy picture. But look how much missing information it has!

Thank you again! As always!

Lethal

iTrader: (4)

I think many of us that have had the UIM off will tell you this. I have been running my car for a couple years without either of those 2 bolts and I've had 0 issues. I must of tried for 30-40 min strait to get those back on after I did the rear valve cover gasket job and just said F it and left them off.

aembleton

The worst part of this job are the 2 coolant hoses that go to the EGR tube

98maxBK

I agree it’s a pain. I initially was planning to swap the hoses with longer ones then upon seeing the connection with my own eyes I ended up just bypassing the whole connection with a longer section of fuel hose. Must have a purpose possibly the egr gets too hot for the manifold due to exhaust but the contact area is so tiny I said F it. Been over a year and counting.

98maxBK

Yea they are a pain to thread especially with two fingers when your thumb won’t fit. I dropped one thought it rolled somewhere down the fender and searched forever only to find it months later wedged under the PS reservoir.

aembleton

I did this on my 98 I just bought a tee and ran the hoses through the existing TB coolant hoses no issues thus far been like that 2 years now

JvG

You definitely need to saw through that stud.
There is no alternative.

I wrapped electrical tape around a hack saw blade to make a handle.

I also used a longer hose to bypass the junction at tge back of the manifold.

I stuffed some wire through that tube. I used the wire to support the hose so it does not contact hot parts of tge engine. I put bits of spare hose between the wire and the bypass hose.

The egr system is not just about that tube.
carbon will also build up in the chamber the egr unit lives in. That chamber part can be detached for cleaning. You will need the egr gasket between the egr and the housing it lives in. Possibly another gasket between that housing and the engine. My memory is a bit forgetful about what I did.

KP11520

Thanks all! I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so it's all going to go back together as spec'd if it kills me.

And it might! What a PITA! LOL

As far as the two hoses that attach to the EGR, That's not as difficult if you use a typical band clamp and have the screw/bolt head facing the front of the car as you lift the UIM and get a socket with a long screw driver handle on it. Spring clamps and pliers are futile.

I am looking for Bulk Hose to replace the PCV Valve hose and the other thick vacuum lines on the same system. Anybody have any sources. Big Chain and Local guys can't match it up.

Nissan sells an OEM replacement for around $40 plus shipping for the PCV. All of 3.25 inches long.

And I'm with you JvG. Got all the gaskets and LOTS of cleaners and I'm going in Ballz deep and getting it ALL done right the first time. I might have to drive this VERY far to go visit friends in other places!. LOL

And as far as that stud goes.... I don't need no freakin tools. I use my teeth! (Jerky Boys)

So if anybody has any Nissan equivalent hose sources, please advise! Nissan sells an OEM PCV hose for around $40 plus shipping. All of 3.25" long.

Thanks Gents!

KP11520

OK guys..... What am I doing wrong?

I can't seem to get the Injector electrical plugs off the three front (2, 4, & 6 injectors. I sneeze the end of the green clip, I push/slide the green clip into the plug and it won't let go. NADA! Of course having no leverage with short wires and nothing to pry against is a real treat as well!)

Sawzall or Chainsaw?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Push the green part in towards the injector until it locks in place. It doesn't get squeezed like the older style. Once it is locked the connector will slide off. Try wiggling the connector as you push. Probably filled with dirt and such.

KP11520

JS.... You didn't say whether to use a Sawzall or Chainsaw! LOL

Thank you!

I have been sliding it in probably too gently and not getting to lock in place. Didn't want to hurt it.
There's repair manuals. And then there's the twicky wabbit reality manuals. With all the secrets that prevent triple work and heartbreak.

Seems they only have written one of the two types!

As always... Thank you!

KP11520

So I have a new Knock Sensor as the one in my car is 14 years old. And I'm already in this deep. Except on a 1999 maxima, there is more JUNK in the way. Like a vacuum advance that makes it impossible to even stick a kids hand in there. Removed one 10mm bolt but it looks like it's married to the Lower Intake Manifold. Anybody with a 99 know the recipe?

Hopefully JS did his when he restored his beauty!

Thanks Gents!

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

I think you'd have better luck removing the lower manifold instead of disassembling the swirl valve actuator and linkage. If you want to remove the actuator, be careful removing the E clips. I tend to shoot them across the garage never to be seen again.

I am using a non Cali spec LIM to go with the DE-K intake so I am free to replace the knock sensor any time.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Save yourself the frustration, curse words and throwing of tools and remove the LIM to get to the KS. Anyone that says they can get to the KS on a 99 CA spec Max is full of BS.

KP11520

Thanks Gents for the exciting news! Extending the finish line of frustration, cursing and skin removal on the knuckles.

It doesn't get better than this! LOL

There is so much bad info out there saying 95 to 99 is easy. NOT. Cali Spec is such a treat too. But you guys are absolutely right! And the E clips on the arm would be a nightmare and it would still be difficult.

My uncle always said the fastest way to get something done is by removing the aggravation. It is always faster than trying to cheat. But somehow we always dread doing it right. Until I have no choice. LOL

Gonna keep going until I hit the lower oil pan!

Thanks again!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Almost spit out my Mountain Dew when I read that. I always enjoy your sense of humor in your posts.

JvG

KP, my brother had a term for very involved projects like this one.

I'll use the pc version. Just switch the first letter of each word in your mind.

Fluster Cluck.

I understand you might feel a bit flustered. Perhaps enough to say flock.

KP11520

And if a flock of birds flies over, you know what can land on us! LOL

Perfect ending to a Cluck Fluster day!

KP11520

OK all you deep DIY guys!

So, I have the UIM and LIM off and the insides are costed with that lovely coating from all the exhaust and oiled up air flowing through for 228K miles.

How do you, those that go the extra mile, get it all clean inside and out, and accomplish that without a parts washer big enough to accommodate these?

And if I have the 99 Cali swirl valve system, will cleaning this submerged destroy the diaphragm in the vacuum advance unit?

Experienced recommendations appreciated! I want her to be all pretty inside and out again! LOL And even more importantly, run the best it can and be reliable!

Also, waste handling if any major volume is used!

And one more thing.... I cut the tip off the back EGR tube stud. I can't get a wrench on the nut, there's so much stuff in the way on my 1999 Cali spec. Any secrets I'm not privy to?

Thank you!

KP11520

Yes it's true. I am way more twisted than the average forum member! And my compass remains true! LOL

Glad I can help make your watching over us more enjoyable! But it's really easy. No competition!

Just cause we're cursing and frustrated fixing so many of these issues, doesn't mean we can't have a good time being miserable!

JvG

My favorite engine cleaning concoction is 9 parts of kerosene and 1 part Dawn dish soap.

No point cleaning the inside of the intake manifold.

KP11520

WHAT? It came clean from the factory? Remember when we or our friends would send intake parts out to be ported and polished to reduce ANY drag? LOL

Kerosene and Dawn? What if I prefer Ginger? (But Dawn would be my pick in an instant) You are a mad scientist! But I like that! Do you make reserve whiskey with the waste? LOL

Craig said he used Muriatic Acid on one EGR thread. Fascinating Captain!

What is world coming to?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

A big container, some hot water, and de-greaser like Purple Power.

If it is really stubborn stuff use brake cleaner first.

Spray it dry with compressed air to dry if need be.


How do you dispose of that?

KP11520

How about Simple Green Pro HD Heavy Duty cleaner/de-greaser. Safe for use on food prep areas. (Safer for environment too)

Maybe a pump to keep it circulating for a few hours too. I'd love a big heated ultrasonic setup! But I don't even have a garage! I'm moving next to YOU!

Immerse both the LIM and UIM?

Any tricks to getting that back nut off the shortened stud for the EGR tube?

Thanks again as always!

JvG makes whiskey. Sells it to the locals! LOL

JvG

I dispose of the concoction just as I do engine oil.

Once I'm done it's still 90 percent hyrocarbon.

I would not immerse the manifolds on it.

You could pour in some brew, swich it around, scrub the inside with a bottle brush.

Then blast it out with a garden hose.

Before you are horrified..... Engine Brite engine cleaner is nearly the same formula.
People clean engine with it all the time. They rinse it off into their street or driveway.

the kerosene residue will evaporate. So will the detergent.

by the way, jet fuel is mostly kerosene as well. The amount of fumes my method generates is insignificant compared to what an airplane spews in a micro second.

JvG

Regarding a rubber diaphragm in the manifold.

My kerosene solution would ruin it.

I would clean the outside of the manifold with kerosone. Not the inside to that diaphragm.

I learned how to work on small engines in th late 1960s.

We washed out parts in kerosene. Normal practice back then.
Some people still wash parts in gasoline.
I won't because I don't want horrible burns.
​​​​​

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

PP works better than SG which is still good stuff. I have not tried the Pro HD. I figure just clean the parts like a sink full of dishes. A bottle brush would be great.

Having trouble with the stupid stud that needs to be cut?

KP11520

JvG... Thanks for the real experiences! I remember when I was young and people putting some kerosene in with the oil before changing it to remove sludge!

The Whiskey story was so much more fun! LOL

Yeah, I can't get a wrench on the nut. And I did already cut the tip off the stud. So much everything in the way!.

Did you get the nut off from underneath? Does not look like there will be any skin left on my arms!

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

I wish I could remember how I did it. I remember the hack saw and that's it.

KP11520

You never answered about the Chainsaw or Sawzall.......

I'm going to flip a coin! LOL

Memories? Blocked because it's too painful to remember? LOL

JvG

Yes, I also forgot some of the details about that major fluster cluck.

This epic task exceeds the "fun" of replacing the water pump.

Now you know why advised you to do this during fall.

Old man Murphy would cause a rear fuel injector failure in January.

KP11520

All I can say about Old Man Murphy is.........

KP11520

So I am ready to reinstall the LIM. All cleaned and fuel rails and all new components done and new LIM gaskets.

I also replaced the Knock Sensor with a Standard Motor knock sensor. In removing the old one, the plug seems to have been compromised and doesn't lock on to the new one.

Any ideas on how to secure it so it doesn't ever back out? Or can I trust it to STAY where it belongs?

Thanks Gang!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Are you sure the plug is the issue? Does it lock nicely on the OEM KS? Try it again. Perhaps the issue is with the Standard Motor KS? Compare the two...

Unless that harness 'clicks' into place on the KS, I would not move forward...

KP11520

Maybe an OEM knock sensor came with different locking hardware. But everything Standard Motor makes is usually right there with OEM.

So I wound up wrapping a nylon zip tie around the back of the plug where it's narrower and then made a big loop to it and went over the knock sensor and pulled it tight so it can't back out!.

I tugged hard and it ain't budging!

Another day of creative auto mechanics! LOL Like I'm in Cuba almost! I can already smell the fresh pork, ham, Swiss and pickles in a wrap.

JvG

I've used a similar approach with other broken connector locks. It won't back out.

KP11520

Thanks JvG for the validation! I am NOT ALONE!

Yup... There are other crazies here with me too! LOL

You gotta do what you gotta do, to keep these going!