I'm attempting to replace a leaking water pump on my 1995 Maxima SE (110K miles). It's not going well.

I removed the timing chain tensioner, then backed off the chain. The three M6 water pump bolts came out cleanly, but when attempting to walk out the pump using the M8 bolts, both mounting ears snapped off. Apparently, this is not uncommon.

So, I made a jig using two 3/16" thick steel mending plates with 5/16" bolts to attach to the teeth. I've tried extracting the pump using a 25" pry bar, 30" steel pipe and a 5 lb. slide hammer (drilled a hole through the fenders). Nothing. Then I put a bolt behind the plates and through to the outside fender. I held the head with a wrench while turning the nut with a ratcheting breaker bar to draw in the bolt. The mending plates bent but the pump went nowhere. It's hard to believe that corrosion is holding this in.

Thinking better access and line of sight might help, I reluctantly pulled the timing chain cover and tried prying/pulling again. No luck.

Read through all the forum posts and searched online. I did find one video where a guy stood on a 3 ft. wrecking bar until the pump popped out, but I'm reluctant to try that kind of force.

Short of calling a mobile mechanic, I'm fresh out of ideas. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.



Jig Attachment


1/2" x 4.5" Bolt Through Fender


1/2" Breaker Bar & 19MM Socket

 

All your doing is pulling the engine over, wedge a block tight between the engine and frame tight and try again. Make yourself a cardboard deflector to keep things out of the oil pan, just in case. You need to push the pump back In if it is cocked. The o ring is likely folded over, spray it with Pb and knock it back in there. Then use the puller, Don't rock the pump so much on removal. That puller should pull it out evenly. Spin the tension bolt up tight with something and yank it out, It does takes a considerable amount of force to remove these sometimes.

 

Hi Reality_sucks, thanks for the reply. I will put a block of wood as you suggested. I have sprayed the pump with copious amounts of PB, though I'm not sure it is getting past the o-rings to the corrosion. What do you mean by "knock it back in there"?

The pump does not appear to be cocked and it is locked in solid, so pushing it back in does not seem to be an option. I have tried lightly tapping around it with a small sledge hammer. The two bolts holding the jig are positioned at the top and bottom "ears", so it it should be applying pressure evenly as the 1/2" bolt is tightened.

Will take your advice and give it another go.

 

One of Your photos appeared as if the pump was pulled out slightly. My suggestion would be to pull on the gear it self. Its stronger than it looks. Corrosion can be an issue, However the Pb should be allowed to sit over night.
Does the Pump Body Move at all or is it still positioned over the Bolt holes.? There could be a few reasons why it wont Come out. If corrosion is the case then you need to attempt to twist on the pump body to break that loose first.

I think you should put a thick plate in place of the washers.. Something that wont bend at all and a stronger bolt against the frame.. I think you on to something with that set up. Two pry bars is all i've used when this happens. Use a bar on the lower bolt hole edge to attempt to rotate the body, not so much to break the ear, but to break what ever seal is holding this. Once it rotates, it should pull out with your puller. I would crank down on that bolt and use two bars against the gear and fullll pulll this. There is not much in there.

 

Brute force is not how one removes the water pump.

There is tight clearance between the pump and tge housing it lives in. Forcing either bolt will cause the pump to dig in to the housing on the opposite side.

The proper way to remove the pump is to turn one of the bolts 1/2 turn, then turn the other bolt 1/2 turn.
Repeat till the pump comes loose by its self.

Should a bolt feel tight, it's because the pump is now Cockeyed. Do Not Force It !!!!
Instead LOOSEN IT. Followed by tightening the
Other Bolt 1/2 to 1 full turn. Doing this will solve the Cockeyed issue.

The perfect person to gently remove the pump would be a careful and gentle 8 year old girl. Not her ham handed father.

you might want to gently tap on the pump with a wooden block and a hammer. GENTLY. !!!

 

To original poster.

Please remove all instruments of torture.

Find the side of the pump which is out the most.
Tap on it until it goes into the housing a little.

then wiggle the pump out somehow, a bit at a time.

As I recall Reality Sucks used methods similar to yours.
He had similar issues. Due to forcing what should not be forced. Please do more research if you doubt what I'm advising

I removed and replaced my pump without issue.
Obviously aluminum pumps with ears which can break off should not be forced.

 

Hi JvG. Thanks for the input. I completely agree that brute force is not recommended, and read through the procedure of 1/2 turns on each using an 8MM x 40 bolt. But despite that, both the top and bottom mounting ears broke upon trying to walk out the pump. So, now I need to find a way to remove it.

Reality Sucks also thought the pump might be cockeyed, which would make sense, though I do not believe that is the case (I could be wrong). The remaining side 'ear' is tight up against the TC and the bolt hole is still perfectly aligned. I can insert and remove the bolt without issue.

I did take Reality Sucks' advice and resprayed with PB overnight. I also tried to rotate the pump as he suggested but couldn't get a direct path to tap on it. Maybe a long punch might do it. Nor could I get a small putty knife or pry bar under the lip to break the seal between the pump and the housing.



Side Ear


Broken Ear - Bottom


Broken Ear - Top

 

If brute force is what either of you think I implied here then good Luck to you both. However what I can understand here is that a person who is DIY has a major issue. In a shop setting this nothing to remove. The OP is in a driveway from the photos, information and resources they have AVAILABLE. He made a Jig, which could help aid here. The end goal was for it to be used to apply just enough even pressure to keep it straight. Using the bars in a steady apply pressure motion to see if it will move is what needs to be done. He is just to afraid to do that by his own words. Unconventional maybe, but when this happens Nothing is off the table, Understand that.

Maybe you can Wish the ears back On, and follow his step by step, but I didn't read a single New Idea. No FSM or a how I did mine story is going to tell you how to remove a broken or seized pump.

If the body will move the pump will come out, and Since you have the Cover off. Use some ties to pull that chain up and out of your way. Don't worry about the Timing, I can walk you through that also. The Concern here is getting the pump out, and if for some random reason You break this cover. I have one In basement you can have. Keep us updated. The picture is reference so that you can see how much depth there is to the inner cover, and just how far it sits in there.

In your second picture "broken bottom ear" look closely. is that an O-ring? What is the color I see there.

 

Your understanding is correct. A DIY guy in an apartment complex, with some Harbor Freight tools, trying to get his 27-year old vehicle back on the road. The FSM procedure didn't pan out, so a new course of action is required. I wasn't advocating for brute force, just trying to find a workable solution.

I had no luck rotating the pump to break the seal. My thought was to tap the side 'ear' up or down but could not get a straight shot at it with the tools I have. Maybe a long punch might work. I tried the jig again, adding another plate to prevent bending (9/16 total thickness). I also implemented your idea of placing a block of wood to keep the engine from moving. The result was the same - the plates went to the inner fender, but the pump didn't budge.

I agree that getting the chain out of the way would be very helpful but don't seem to have a lot of slack even when turning the crank pulley counterclockwise past the 20 degrees. I even took off the chain guide above the pump to relieve some tension, but it still is tight. Any suggestions?

Thanks again for your help.

 

Look at the middle photo. Notice that tge metal from what used to be the ear now overlaps the housing the pump lives in. Tgat indicates tgat tge pump is **** eyed. So find a way to tap sideways on the smooth part above the gear portion. Like a hammer and a block of wood. Tapping should move the pump sideways a bit to straighten it out.

I assume that you removed tge chain tensioner.

rotate tge crankshaft even farther than you have so far.
Enough to get tge chain to clear tge pump. Yes, that more than 20 degrees. No, you won't make the chain slip past the other gears.

once the pump looks like its not **** eyed find a way to simultaneously rock the pump back and forth while pulling olive out.

the whole point is to do this gently.

please hold the new pump in your hand.

get the same perspective as you see it in the car.
now hold it so it's **** eyed. Notice that it appears wider. Now hold it so it's more **** eyed. Notice it gets still wider.

forcing the pump out makes it wider. Which causes it to dig into the sides of the casting. Which makes it more difficult to remove.

find a way to make it appear less **** eyed. That should free it up.

 

I have worked on my own cars for many years.
I get a sense of how the parts relate to each other.

I noticed that the removal screws would feel tight.
I realized tgat meant the pump was starting for bind, because it was **** eyed. Pump to housing clearance is just a few thousands of an inch.
I loosened the small removal bolt I had just tightened a little bit. Then I tightened the bolt on the opposite side.
back and forth, 1/2 turn each time. I noticed the pump was moving our of the housing. It just needs to pull out half an inch before it comes loose.

 

Thanks JvG. Yes the tensioner is out and what you say about the pump being cockeyed makes sense. I will rotate the crankshaft some more to free the timing chain. Maybe with the chain entirely out the way, I can better see the orientation of the pump and compare it to the new one. Hopefully, I will be able to rock or rotate it since what I'm doing now clearly isn't working.

 

The **** eyed issue is kinda counter intuitive.
Many times we have achieved success by forcing things just a bit harder. We notice that one side of the pump appears to be coming out . So one is tempted to pull even harder. However...... the bottom end of the side you pull on is scraping along the side of the housing the pump lives in. Still worse, the front part of the pump on the other side is wedging into the housing. Which can crack it. A cracked housing allows pressurized coolant to spray into the oil..

Once the chain is out of the way tap on the side of the pump which appears pulled out more. Tap it back in as Reality Sucks mentioned.

Once it's in there pretty level, you should be able to manipulate the pump out of there with levers.

Remember... you want to rock the pump back and forth a few thousandths of an inch at a time. Similar to turning the removal screws one half turn. Pull the pump out just a wee bit at a time with the levers. Pull just till the pump stops. Then pull on the other side. Very gently. Like a little girl would if told to be gentle.

Please post photos of what the inside of the pump housing looks like. Note any evident damage from removing the pump. Don't install the pump till I or other members see the photos. I'm on the west coast. So I might wake up later than you might like.

Good luck. !!!

 

You and Reality Sucks must have better visual perception than I do regarding how the pump is lodged, so I will assume you are both correct.

Went back at it this morning and tried to further rotate the crankshaft to get the chain out of my way. It seems to hit a spot where it will no longer rotate (turning the pulley by hand) and well before any real slack is generated. Even stranger, at the 'end' spot, the chain seems to retighten, not loosen. If I turn the crank back clockwise from there, just a little bit, then there is some slack, but no more than in the photos above or below.. Don't know if more 'oomph' is required to overcome compression, but didn't want to engage brute force per our thread.

Suggestions? Thanks.


Position of pulley before stopping.


Position of crankshaft without pulley before stopping


Minimal amount of slack.

 

Put the bolt back in. Turn the bolt to rotate the engine.
Yes, you will be fighting compression.

Fer Gawds sake don't let the chain slip over tge teeth on tgat bottom gear.

 

Thanks, I will reinstall the bolt (with pulley) and give it a turn. It seems like I would need to torque it pretty good or the bolt would just unscrew. Any way to prevent the bottom of the chain from slipping off the gear?

 

I would remove the spark plugs to prevent fighting compression.

Regarding tightening the bolt. Is your car auto or 5 speed

 

Excellent idea... I will pull the plugs. The car is 5 speed.

 

How's this going..?

 

Thanks for checking in. Here's the update.

As JvG suggested, I removed the spark plugs and reinstalled the crank bolt. But even with the plugs out and the car in Neutral, the bolt kept loosening when it hit compression resistance. I took out the bolt, slipped back on the pulley over the key, and finally got some decent slack by turning it counterclockwise. I noticed the teeth at the bottom of the crank pulley gears were not engaging, which would explain why I could never get any slack. There was plenty on the tensioner side but very little on the pump side. So, I had my roommate keep finger-tight pressure on the chain (pump side) while I turned the pulley. The good news is that it worked. The bad is that he got aggressive and pulled the chain off the cam pulley. But at least I now have clear access to the water pump.

As for removing the pump, still nothing. I bought some punches from Harbor Freight and tried gently tapping on the left side. That accomplished nothing except chip some material off the pump. I tried an oil filter wrench, but the angle was slightly wrong, and it just kept turning the gears. I also picked up a chain wrench from Tractor Supply in hopes I might be able to rotate it as you had suggested. But I couldn't get it to lock, as it was either too loose to grip the pump or too tight to engage the wrench.

The pump isn't moving - whether it's from corrosion or metal-to-metal binding. I took some more close-up photos. To my eye, there hasn't been any movement in any direction.

I also stumbled upon a thread from a Nissan Murano owner with a stuck pump. He used what looks to be baling wire to wrap the pump and pull it with some type of come-along. Maybe applying concentric pressure would be better than my two-bolt setup, which only draws from the top and bottom.

I was helping a neighbor in my complex change a flat tire. She decided to call her son, who works as a mechanic at a nearby Pep Boys. He took a look at the pump and said he thought the engine would need to be pulled. Was that what you meant when you said it would be nothing to remove in a shop setting?


Bottom


Side


Top


Murano Jig


Murano Old Vs. New

 

Maybe you can take a Dremel with a metal cutting wheel and cut a notch into the pump where that still intact bump out to the left of the pin on the block can be your leverage area. Make it deep enough and wide enough to get a molding pry bar (see below) in deep.
Or drill big holes into the pump just past where it meets the block so you can really stick in something heavy duty and pry?

Or blocked out with some metal for leverage behind a pry bar and pry from behind the teeth on the pulley?

Is there anything that would get damaged around where the pump seats if you heated it with a torch as well?

 

I would have to purchase a Dremel and 50' extension cord. And it doesn't seem like notching the nub would go deep enough to allow a firm grip with the bar in the picture, as the angle would be an issue. I'm not sure about drilling holes from underneath. The metal chipped pretty easily when I applied a light force with a punch..

I did pry more than a few times on the jig I devised with a 25" pry bar and also a 30" steel gas pipe. Both against the block and the motor mount before removing the timing chain cover. The jig held the gears tightly, and I applied a fair amount of pressure, but the pump wouldn't budge. I don't know if heating it with a torch (don't have one) would make it better or worse, as heat would cause expansion. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I fear that you have ruined the timing case by now.
Or have disturbed the gaskets between the timing case and tge engine block.

The only solutions I see are

1. Purchasing a second hand timing case and gaskets, then try to complete the project your self with our assistance.

2. Have the car towed to a mechanic who has worked on these cars.

3. Giving up on this project.

 

This is freaky as the two areas of contact, First is internal where an O Ring seals between Chambers and then where it seats into Timing Case/Block. With all that Oil in there?

Unless the OP has owned this since new and knows for sure, I'd almost suspect it has been replaced before and the hack forced it in using the bolts. Who knows what is the lock that created?

I'd try heating it and using some steel as leverage blocks on each side to create the perfect leverage position and depth and prying from behind the gear at the same time. Multiple person job.
It would suck to have to pull that Back Timing Case cover off the two banks to get this fixed.... IN THE DRIVEWAY!

Lots of creative new curse words will be a plus!

 

Thanks for the replies. I have owned the car since new and it only has 115K miles on it. Yes, it is certainly possible that the rear timing case or seal has been damaged., and having to replace it would suck big time. I'm not seeing how using steel blocks on each side would work, as the leverage would be pressing against the rear housing which is aluminum. Can you clarify?

I've called three mobile mechanics who wouldn't even come out to look at it. Two other shops didn't work on cars earlier than 2000, a third quoted $1100. So it will either be me completing it with assistance from the Org... or selling it
​​​​​​​

 

If the back of the timing case is aluminum, the only place you can place blocks to use as leverage points for pry bars is where it is backed by the cylinder banks, or it will get distorted if really stuck.

Maybe buy a low mileage engine and swap. LOL Might be easier and cheaper!

It's getting to the point where you might have nothing to lose with a torch used for sweating copper pipes. Just use MAPP gas rather than Propane. Heat the circumference of the pump and hopefully that will activate the penetrating oil to move deeper. Aluminum expands QUICKLY! Start looking for a new rear case cover as well before anything else.

Sadly, you haven't populated your profile so we can make recommendations that are relative to YOUR area.

 

I'm currently in Oklahoma City (updated profile) but the car was bought new in California. Even if I had a MAPP torch available (I don't) how would PB move past the oil and coolant o-rings to the corroded area? If the inner cover needs replaced it is likely game over, as that repair isn't feasible in an apartment parking lot with my nominal tools. Neither is an engine swap. At this point, just trying to figure a way to remove the water pump and go from there.

 

I'd try a cheap torch head and use MAPP or at least Propane to heat the aluminum area around the water pump. Aluminum expands fast and might break the bond to the water pump.

Try Home Depot or Ace Hardware and get something like this: Or get this from Amazon. Basic, Simple and also made for MAPP which is hotter than Propane.

Or borrow one from a friend. MAPP gas and Propane are available everywhere HD, Lowes, Ace Hardware. You can light it with a match or lighter. Don't bother with a striker unless your friend that lends one to you has one.

Or look used on CL.

The inside O Ring area should be less likely to be bound. There's a rubber O Ring between the two metals. But who knows what happened to epoxy these together?

I'd also start asking friends about a reputable, fair and experienced mechanic that has his own Tow Rig or Flat Bed and keep searching until you get one to do the job. Most Car Insurance policies cover Towing. You're not going to like used car prices for a lot of garbage out there now at "reasonable" prices.

But you'll see when you choose to buy used instead.

Hope this helps with perspective.

 

I've spoken to him on private message.
Heavy hammers have been used. Also heavy duty prying instruments to attempt to remove a **** eyed pump. Doing that only wedges tge pump tighter into the case. I wanted him to tap on the broken side ear of the water pump so that the part which overlapped the case would shift. What I had in mind was a couple of taps with a claw hammer. However a 2 pound sledge hammer was used vigorously. I fear that sideways motion of the timing case may have compromised the seals between the timing case and the engine block.

Thats why I advise that a shop repair this.
I feel that the required work is beyond his ability.

Removing a water pump is pretty easy if one gently rocks the pump out with the removal screws.
All too many former members have tried to force the pump out.

OptDave you have a nice car. Please pay a shop to finish what you started. The repair is less expense than replacing the car with another one. The devil you know might be better than the devil you don't.

Eventually us hobby mechanics might encounter
unfortunate results by attempting repairs beyond our understanding or ability. Consider this a learning experience. I wish you all the best

 

Oh Boy..... There's a lot more OUCH there than I absorbed from the written dialog.

After the two bolts were removed, it might have been a good idea to tap it to rotate first before pulling it. But that would have meant removing the timing cover and not just the access area.

Maybe even still with some heat and a rotate like a clock, since there isn't much to lose. If it refuses to move. Off to a reputable mechanic.

I have no experience with a VQ engine and the way these were assembled to get a feel for how far we can push things. But the design isn't like the old fashioned blocks we grew up with for sure. Much more able to withstand convincing.

Best of luck! Hopefully just gaskets took the hit and not the back cover, as gaskets are usually longer available than the covers. Which are Discontinued and who knows if a JY would want to break apart n engine that's running. Only searching will tell.

 

Yes, in retrospect I might have done things differently had I known that this problem is not uncommon. That's not to say the outcome would have been any different. I could also suggest Nissan's design that forces the pump out by pushing a steel bolt against two points on an aluminum cover was ill-conceived. The damage to the top and bottom bolt receptacles caused by the 8MM bolt is evidence of this. JvG was kind enough to try and help me privately, and I did try to lightly tap the pump with a small sledgehammer. Whether I damaged the inner cover or seal is unknown at this point.

But none of that is actually going to fix the problem. So, I need to decide if spending close to $1,500 makes sense on a 27-year old car with a resale value of not much more than that.

Thanks for all the help. For now, I will likely NPO the vehicle until I can afford to bring it to a shop. Or I may just sell it.

 

The removal bolts handle only ounces of pressure if turned 1/2 turn at a time, and altenating from side to side. Also if a bolt becomes even a bit difficult to turn, back it off, then turn the other one.

That is how many of us successfully replaced our pumps.

 

Hi I was wondering if you have any updates regarding the situation?

 

No. I set the repair aside to focus on getting a job. Just landed one here at my apartment complex, so the repair isn't as critical as before, since I can walk to work. Will revisit extracting the water pump next week.

 

May I ask before you decided to replace the pump, you said it was leaking coolant from the water pump seal, but was the car overheating? Like were you able to drive the car without overheating as long as you check the coolant level and add coolant as needed? I ask because I also have a 1995 Maxima, leaking coolant from the water pump seal. However, I am able to drive it without overheating since I top off the coolant.

 

Mine did not overheat while driving as long as the coolant level was adequate. I added some Barrs Stop Leak and that seemed to help considerably. I probably could have continued to run it that way for a while, but figured I would be proactive and replace the pump.

 

As the coolant gets hot, it expands and finds its way past weak seals. And unfortunately, when it cools, sucks from the easiest place to relieve that suction. Which is sometimes that same weak seal. Now Coolant and Oil are flowing in both directions.

NEVER good for an engine whether fast or slow.

 

I don't think mine is mixing fluids, both the coolant and oil look normal. But I probably have to replace the pump eventually. I'm thinking either to drive it till it dies or paying a shop to do it. It's not something I think I can do myself. What is a fair price for a shop to charge to replace the pump parts+labor?

 

Mine was not mixing fluids either. Once I added the Barrs the leak mostly stopped, so you may be able to drive it that way for some time. I put a couple of gallons of distilled water in the trunk, just in case. I had a hard time finding a shop here in OKC to do the job. as many wouldn't work on cars earlier than 2000. The price I was quoted was $800 for parts and labor. I did not get a quote from the local dealer.

 

It IS something you can do yourself.

the secrets are....

1. Turn the crankshaft far enough to free the pump from the chain.

2. Use only a small wrench to turn the bolts which remove the water pump.

rotate each bolt only 1/2 turn , alternating back and forth. If a bolt becomes a bit tight, back it off. Then tighten the bolt on the opposite side.

Continue until the pump backs out 1/2 inch. It will fall in your hand.

this job is so easy a little girl could do it.

The issue is that guys tighten one bolt too much, so that the pump becomes tilted. Rather than release force on that bolt and tightening the other bolt, they continue to force the bolt which is already too tight.

I think the politically incorrect term is similar to
Double Down On Stupid.

Fix your pump before your engine dies!!!!