Problem removing water pump!
#1
Problem removing water pump!
So I was removing the water pump and following the detailed instructions found on this site. All the steps leading up to the water pump went smoothly. Then I got to the water pump itself. I removed the three bolts holding the water pump in place. No problem there. To back out the water pump, I used the two bolts that were holding the timing chain tensioner in place. Started tighening the bolts down to back out the water pump....switching from one bolt to the other every full revolution....and then the top bolt broke off! Half of it is in the water pump flush with the hole and I cant reach it to remove it. So I'm taking it into a machine shop to have them drill it out.
My question is what went wrong? I need to know what to do differently once they get the bolt out. Any ideas?
My question is what went wrong? I need to know what to do differently once they get the bolt out. Any ideas?
Last edited by EP95SE; 10-06-2008 at 09:53 AM.
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Did you cross thread it ??
When your using the bolts to back the water pump out, that should be gentle and effortless. I did mine by hand and it popped right after a few revolutions with my fingers.
When your using the bolts to back the water pump out, that should be gentle and effortless. I did mine by hand and it popped right after a few revolutions with my fingers.
#3
I took it to the mechanic and we figured out what went wrong. The timing chain tensioner bolts are not the M8 size bolts needed to back the water pump out. They are the same size diameter as the bolts that secure the water pump to the engine, but longer. So the longer bolts did not thread the water pump holes and thus did not back the water pump out. They went all the way into the hole for the shorter bolts used to mount the water pump and since they are longer they reached the end of the hole and broke off.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
#4
I took it to the mechanic and we figured out what went wrong. The timing chain tensioner bolts are not the M8 size bolts needed to back the water pump out. They are the same size diameter as the bolts that secure the water pump to the engine, but longer. So the longer bolts did not thread the water pump holes and thus did not back the water pump out. They went all the way into the hole for the shorter bolts used to mount the water pump and since they are longer they reached the end of the hole and broke off.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
Did you have the engine out?
#5
Nope didn't have the engine out. Just took off the cover to the water pump not the entire crankcase cover.
#7
^^^^ So, you could have damaged the pump, the TC, or the cover .... but why let that stop you from using a prybar. Did you not read up on how to do this?
To the OP .... glad you got it out. It really shouldn't be in there very tight at all ... it pays to have the right tool for the job (in this case ... M8 bolts!)
To the OP .... glad you got it out. It really shouldn't be in there very tight at all ... it pays to have the right tool for the job (in this case ... M8 bolts!)
#8
i dont believe i damage anything cuz i grab the pump by hand at first to pull on it. it had a gap from the first o ring and i put the bar in b/w pump and the cover and it popped right out. it was a light tug and out it went. i haven't ran into any problems with either one of my max with 40k on those pump and cover. no leaks or noise. i put it back pretty much the same a slight push in it went.
#9
water pump mounting holes damaged
Hey guys.
Followed write up for replacing water pump on my 98 maxima and everything went fairly smoothly until I tried to bolt on new pump. The side bolt threaded easily but the top and bottom bolts would not thread. Ive tried different bolts in different holes and still the same result. I believe the holes may have been damaged when using the M8 bolts to jack out pump, but I dont remember there being to much resistance.
Im thinking I just need to buy the proper sized tap and "clean" the opening of the holes with a hand tap. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch these bolts are? and who sells metric taps?
thanks in advance.
Followed write up for replacing water pump on my 98 maxima and everything went fairly smoothly until I tried to bolt on new pump. The side bolt threaded easily but the top and bottom bolts would not thread. Ive tried different bolts in different holes and still the same result. I believe the holes may have been damaged when using the M8 bolts to jack out pump, but I dont remember there being to much resistance.
Im thinking I just need to buy the proper sized tap and "clean" the opening of the holes with a hand tap. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch these bolts are? and who sells metric taps?
thanks in advance.
#10
Hey guys.
Followed write up for replacing water pump on my 98 maxima and everything went fairly smoothly until I tried to bolt on new pump. The side bolt threaded easily but the top and bottom bolts would not thread. Ive tried different bolts in different holes and still the same result. I believe the holes may have been damaged when using the M8 bolts to jack out pump, but I dont remember there being to much resistance.
Im thinking I just need to buy the proper sized tap and "clean" the opening of the holes with a hand tap. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch these bolts are? and who sells metric taps?
thanks in advance.
Followed write up for replacing water pump on my 98 maxima and everything went fairly smoothly until I tried to bolt on new pump. The side bolt threaded easily but the top and bottom bolts would not thread. Ive tried different bolts in different holes and still the same result. I believe the holes may have been damaged when using the M8 bolts to jack out pump, but I dont remember there being to much resistance.
Im thinking I just need to buy the proper sized tap and "clean" the opening of the holes with a hand tap. Does anyone know what size and thread pitch these bolts are? and who sells metric taps?
thanks in advance.
Nevermind guys.
Bought a metric hand tap kit at AZ which had the m6 x 1.0 tap i needed and the hand tap tool itself. Worked like a charm. Sprayed the tap with WD40, turned it about twice in the hole, then backed it out and cleaned the debris off of it with another blast of WD40, and then went in about 4 turns and then back out to finish. Got the pump mounted and now waiting on my replacement tc tensioner.
So in case anyone runs into it, those bolts are M6 x 1.0, and mine only had three of them instead of the four refered to in the writeup. Different year??
#11
Not sure what write-up you saw, maybe it was referring to the four bolts securing the black metal plate on the front engine cover.
#12
Yes. Looking at the write up again, it does say only three bolts. Not sure what i was thinking. All i know is i spent about 15 frustrating minutes looking for that imaginary 4th bolt. haha
#13
Anybody have an idea as to what labor costs would run these days for this? I could probably do it myself, but I get this sick feeling in my stomach just thinking about being out in the garage in the winter after I had to change my transmission this past February. I know I'm a wimp.
#14
Anybody have an idea as to what labor costs would run these days for this? I could probably do it myself, but I get this sick feeling in my stomach just thinking about being out in the garage in the winter after I had to change my transmission this past February. I know I'm a wimp.
#15
Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know. Sorry for the dumb question. It's a long story but I'm stuck without a phone for a few days and have this part I'm trying to figure out whether to install on my own or not.
#16
If you think you can do it, go for it, if not .... to give you an idea of local shops around here (and I work in one) the labor rates are ~65.00 / hr -> ~90.00 / hr (stealership). It's not a bad job, but it's not much fun either. Took me about 2 hrs to get it done. After reading the write up .... a few times.
If you question if you can do it or not .... it's your car so if you F it up, it's your doin. If you take it to a shop and they do it, you'll pay for it, but it should get done right. Your call.
If you question if you can do it or not .... it's your car so if you F it up, it's your doin. If you take it to a shop and they do it, you'll pay for it, but it should get done right. Your call.
#17
If you think you can do it, go for it, if not .... to give you an idea of local shops around here (and I work in one) the labor rates are ~65.00 / hr -> ~90.00 / hr (stealership). It's not a bad job, but it's not much fun either. Took me about 2 hrs to get it done. After reading the write up .... a few times.
If you question if you can do it or not .... it's your car so if you F it up, it's your doin. If you take it to a shop and they do it, you'll pay for it, but it should get done right. Your call.
If you question if you can do it or not .... it's your car so if you F it up, it's your doin. If you take it to a shop and they do it, you'll pay for it, but it should get done right. Your call.
When you did your WP did you take all the belts, pulleys, etc. off or did you leave them all on like Mishmosh describes? 2 hours isn't too bad. Some people talk about replacing the TC tensioner also but I'm not sure I need to. I'm actually working on a 96 I30 but as far as I'm aware they're pretty much the same thing.
#18
They are the same thing! Also ... why not do the TC Tensioner while you have it out anyway? Why reuse a part you'll need to replace eventually anyhow? It's not that expensive, but the labor to do it again later would make it that way. I took my drive belt off. You need to loosen the chain to allow it off the pump gear anyway, so you have to take the tensioner out and you don't need to pull the rez for the PS pump, just move it out of the way. As for the mount, you'll need to pull it. Not a bad job, just get it done .... sooner than better.
#19
What shop?
[QUOTE=EP95SE;6644328]I took it to the mechanic and we figured out what went wrong. The timing chain tensioner bolts are not the M8 size bolts needed to back the water pump out. They are the same size diameter as the bolts that secure the water pump to the engine, but longer. So the longer bolts did not thread the water pump holes and thus did not back the water pump out. They went all the way into the hole for the shorter bolts used to mount the water pump and since they are longer they reached the end of the hole and broke off.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.[/QuarryvilleE]
The same thing happened to me but I can't find a shop where around my area that would even touch it! Right now I got the bolt is still stuck in the tc cover. What shop did you take it too? Any help would be great! Thank you.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.[/QuarryvilleE]
The same thing happened to me but I can't find a shop where around my area that would even touch it! Right now I got the bolt is still stuck in the tc cover. What shop did you take it too? Any help would be great! Thank you.
#20
I took it to the mechanic and we figured out what went wrong. The timing chain tensioner bolts are not the M8 size bolts needed to back the water pump out. They are the same size diameter as the bolts that secure the water pump to the engine, but longer. So the longer bolts did not thread the water pump holes and thus did not back the water pump out. They went all the way into the hole for the shorter bolts used to mount the water pump and since they are longer they reached the end of the hole and broke off.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
So don't use the timing chain tensioner bolts they are not the correct size. Get some M8 bolts from a hardware store.
Fortunately, the shop was able to get the bolt out. If someone does end up breaking off one of their bolts, the way they got it out without drilling was to remove the old water pump (the correct way using the M8 bolts) and sodder a nut on the end of the broken bolt and then ratchet it out.
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