Loss of ignition signal.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 38
Well, today I messed around and pulled the center console out, mistakenly thinking the BCM module was under there. Wrong. Only thing there is the airbag module.
Then, I looked at the mess under the automatic shift lever.... there are a few wiring loom connectors under there.. for the selector illumination light, and a few others I couldn't figure out.
I neglected to take a picture of it, but it's down below the actual gear selector handle... and it resembles a plunger with a rod going in and out of it... about an 1/8th inch diameter... it used to be connected to some sort of plastic piece that is long gone...this rod must have used to go in and out as you moved the shifter...I can't explain it without a picture. I thought it might have been the neutral safety switch, but I think that's built onto the transmission where the shift cable connects.
Anyhow.. this morning the engine started a ran for the average minute and a half and died. I reached in and it started right back up and ran for about 10 seconds and promptly died again.
That's when I tore into the center console.
I can't remember if I got the thing to start back up after I got to messing with the little plunger/rod thing beneath the shift lever...
I got the FSM out and tried to find the schematic I located previously that showed all the wiring loom terminal connections in the drivers compartment. I vaguely recalled seeing two labeled "circuit breakers".
I finally relocated them and deduced that they were back on the firewall, where the wiring loom penetrates the firewall through one of those big multi wire connectors.
They are round.... they are locked in place with they typical connector "press to unlatch" catches that I was unable to operate, because laying on my back... half in the car floorboard, and from my lower back on down was hanging in midair, unsupported.... and I couldn't get situated to get both hands back up in there.
I finally twisted and yanked and got them loose and down where I could reach them.
Circuit breakers tripping out is exactly what I suspected was going to be the problem in this.. it makes sense. The thing will run for so long, then the ignition quits.. and electric problem, and what better thing to trip and automatically reset than a circuit breaker.
Well, I got them out.... tested them and they were both showing continuity.
I looked at them with a magnifyer.. they had Nissan part numbers on them. Googled that... turns out they are circuit breakers for the power window circuit. I turned the key on and tried the windows with these things removed.... no bueno!
So, these two things aren't my smoking gun>
I also removed the ECM loom connector from the ecm. I saw no corrosion on the loom or the ecm. I plugged it back in and didn't tighten the bolt down, and the engine wouldn't start. Tightened the bolt up, and it started.
Later on, after messing with the plunger/rod under the shifter and messing around under the dash where the circuit breakers were.. I never did get the engine to start.
I don't know if it was just still out of order from the earlier 2 minute run, or if I've disturbed something and really killed it this time.
Then, I looked at the mess under the automatic shift lever.... there are a few wiring loom connectors under there.. for the selector illumination light, and a few others I couldn't figure out.
I neglected to take a picture of it, but it's down below the actual gear selector handle... and it resembles a plunger with a rod going in and out of it... about an 1/8th inch diameter... it used to be connected to some sort of plastic piece that is long gone...this rod must have used to go in and out as you moved the shifter...I can't explain it without a picture. I thought it might have been the neutral safety switch, but I think that's built onto the transmission where the shift cable connects.
Anyhow.. this morning the engine started a ran for the average minute and a half and died. I reached in and it started right back up and ran for about 10 seconds and promptly died again.
That's when I tore into the center console.
I can't remember if I got the thing to start back up after I got to messing with the little plunger/rod thing beneath the shift lever...
I got the FSM out and tried to find the schematic I located previously that showed all the wiring loom terminal connections in the drivers compartment. I vaguely recalled seeing two labeled "circuit breakers".
I finally relocated them and deduced that they were back on the firewall, where the wiring loom penetrates the firewall through one of those big multi wire connectors.
They are round.... they are locked in place with they typical connector "press to unlatch" catches that I was unable to operate, because laying on my back... half in the car floorboard, and from my lower back on down was hanging in midair, unsupported.... and I couldn't get situated to get both hands back up in there.
I finally twisted and yanked and got them loose and down where I could reach them.
Circuit breakers tripping out is exactly what I suspected was going to be the problem in this.. it makes sense. The thing will run for so long, then the ignition quits.. and electric problem, and what better thing to trip and automatically reset than a circuit breaker.
Well, I got them out.... tested them and they were both showing continuity.
I looked at them with a magnifyer.. they had Nissan part numbers on them. Googled that... turns out they are circuit breakers for the power window circuit. I turned the key on and tried the windows with these things removed.... no bueno!
So, these two things aren't my smoking gun>
I also removed the ECM loom connector from the ecm. I saw no corrosion on the loom or the ecm. I plugged it back in and didn't tighten the bolt down, and the engine wouldn't start. Tightened the bolt up, and it started.
Later on, after messing with the plunger/rod under the shifter and messing around under the dash where the circuit breakers were.. I never did get the engine to start.
I don't know if it was just still out of order from the earlier 2 minute run, or if I've disturbed something and really killed it this time.
That rod is for the Key/ shift interlock rod. They are always out of place, Most don't even know it. It has nothing to do with your issue.
Did you happen to Verify Continuity from Said ECM connector to your crank sensor, Since that seems to be the recurring DTC here..
Your situation is not common as several factors that are not outlined in any FSM may have occured with this car. Have you checked or done any of the above things I mentioned on page 1 of this thread.
Did you happen to Verify Continuity from Said ECM connector to your crank sensor, Since that seems to be the recurring DTC here..
Your situation is not common as several factors that are not outlined in any FSM may have occured with this car. Have you checked or done any of the above things I mentioned on page 1 of this thread.
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Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 1
Check the maf sensor or check the ground location
I've replaced the POS crankshaft position sensor because everyone was just positive that that's what the problem was..
I've removed and cleaned up and checked the resistance against the factory specs for the cam position sensor, and it checks okay.. I'm not going to bother replacing it. Because I doubt if that's the problem..
the trouble codes are the knock sensor, 0335 crankshaft position sensor circuit a and one other that I can't remember.
the engine will start and run for approximately 1 and 1/2 minutes, then the ignition quits firing ... I have had a timing light connected in the system and the engine fires just like it's supposed to for about a minute and a half then the timing light blinks erratically, the tachometer needle bounces down to zero a few times then the engine dies. It's an electronic problem somewhere.
. Fuel pressure needle remains glued to the 37 lb mark on the gauge I have in line.
after I remove the keyless 2/azzard relay today, and started the engine it's surprised me and ran for way longer than normal ... I thought maybe I had figured out the issue by removing that relay. But, it probably ran for three and a half minutes maybe four and then it died.. never done that before but it's been setting for about a week now.. most of the time it only runs for a minute and a half..
I've removed and cleaned up and checked the resistance against the factory specs for the cam position sensor, and it checks okay.. I'm not going to bother replacing it. Because I doubt if that's the problem..
the trouble codes are the knock sensor, 0335 crankshaft position sensor circuit a and one other that I can't remember.
the engine will start and run for approximately 1 and 1/2 minutes, then the ignition quits firing ... I have had a timing light connected in the system and the engine fires just like it's supposed to for about a minute and a half then the timing light blinks erratically, the tachometer needle bounces down to zero a few times then the engine dies. It's an electronic problem somewhere.
. Fuel pressure needle remains glued to the 37 lb mark on the gauge I have in line.
after I remove the keyless 2/azzard relay today, and started the engine it's surprised me and ran for way longer than normal ... I thought maybe I had figured out the issue by removing that relay. But, it probably ran for three and a half minutes maybe four and then it died.. never done that before but it's been setting for about a week now.. most of the time it only runs for a minute and a half..
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