ECTS and Knock Sensor codes, engine stalled, starting issues
ECTS and Knock Sensor codes, engine stalled, starting issues
Engine has been having some minor rough idle on and off for many months now. Today the owner of the car had a difficult start, and less then a mile from home the engine started dying and stalled. It did not want to start back up again, but after sitting a couple mins, it did and was able to drive home. Yellow CEL appeared, I checked codes and its ECTS and knock sensor. I looked up a bit on this site and it seems the ECTS prolly went bad and is the cause of this issue.
I bought one from Autozone for $23 and planning on installing it, but would like some guidance about how to do it. I seen videos and advice to just install it without any sealant (such as teflon), but Chiltons manual says to use conductive sealant and not teflon tape. Can I just install it without any sealant?
Also about removing it, can I spray WD-40 on it if it does not want to loosen, and then gently tap wrench with hammer? I dunno much about car repair, but I do change oil and brake pads, and rear strut assembly (easy jobs).
Also what is the torque spec on the ECTS if anyone knows? I don't want to strip the thread.
I bought one from Autozone for $23 and planning on installing it, but would like some guidance about how to do it. I seen videos and advice to just install it without any sealant (such as teflon), but Chiltons manual says to use conductive sealant and not teflon tape. Can I just install it without any sealant?
Also about removing it, can I spray WD-40 on it if it does not want to loosen, and then gently tap wrench with hammer? I dunno much about car repair, but I do change oil and brake pads, and rear strut assembly (easy jobs).
Also what is the torque spec on the ECTS if anyone knows? I don't want to strip the thread.
Last edited by RITE; Oct 10, 2022 at 02:23 AM.
Before you do any replacing, make sure the harness connection isn’t the issue.
- Clear the DTC.
- Unplug and replug the sensor’s connector until it clicks.
- Do the unplug and replug 3 times.
- Run the car and look for the DTC.
If the sensor is confirmed bad and is replaced, try removing it with engine warmed. This may free it up a bit.
Also, I’ve never needed any sealant.
Be careful when removing. The sensor housing is plastic … and likely old, heat weathered and brittle plastic … and it’ll crumble.
- Clear the DTC.
- Unplug and replug the sensor’s connector until it clicks.
- Do the unplug and replug 3 times.
- Run the car and look for the DTC.
If the sensor is confirmed bad and is replaced, try removing it with engine warmed. This may free it up a bit.
Also, I’ve never needed any sealant.
Be careful when removing. The sensor housing is plastic … and likely old, heat weathered and brittle plastic … and it’ll crumble.
Before you do any replacing, make sure the harness connection isn’t the issue.
- Clear the DTC.
- Unplug and replug the sensor’s connector until it clicks.
- Do the unplug and replug 3 times.
- Run the car and look for the DTC.
If the sensor is confirmed bad and is replaced, try removing it with engine warmed. This may free it up a bit.
Also, I’ve never needed any sealant.
Be careful when removing. The sensor housing is plastic … and likely old, heat weathered and brittle plastic … and it’ll crumble.
- Clear the DTC.
- Unplug and replug the sensor’s connector until it clicks.
- Do the unplug and replug 3 times.
- Run the car and look for the DTC.
If the sensor is confirmed bad and is replaced, try removing it with engine warmed. This may free it up a bit.
Also, I’ve never needed any sealant.
Be careful when removing. The sensor housing is plastic … and likely old, heat weathered and brittle plastic … and it’ll crumble.
Do you think I should disconnect the battery and clean the connectors of ECTS with electrical contact cleaner? Maybe that will improve connection? Also what do you think about the knock sensor code that remains, should I clean it's connectors first too before buying a new one?
I don't know why so many refuse to put the year Maxima in the narrative. A Knock Sensor Replacement in a 1999 Maxima is way different than previous years.
Everything off the top of the engine, all the way down to, and including including the lower intake manifold. And if going that deep and not replacing all that can be tired is a HUGE mistake.
If details are too much work. DON'T fix cars. Assuming anything is just ........Lucky for you, JvG saved you from thinking you can handle this.
I always clean connector plugs when reattaching everything. Probably not necessary if never left unplugged for any period of time. But overkill usually won't hurt anything and sometimes helps.
I doubt the ECTS is your only problem, but you won't know until it's remedied.
Everything off the top of the engine, all the way down to, and including including the lower intake manifold. And if going that deep and not replacing all that can be tired is a HUGE mistake.
If details are too much work. DON'T fix cars. Assuming anything is just ........Lucky for you, JvG saved you from thinking you can handle this.
I always clean connector plugs when reattaching everything. Probably not necessary if never left unplugged for any period of time. But overkill usually won't hurt anything and sometimes helps.
I doubt the ECTS is your only problem, but you won't know until it's remedied.
I don't know why so many refuse to put the year Maxima in the narrative. A Knock Sensor Replacement in a 1999 Maxima is way different than previous years.
Everything off the top of the engine, all the way down to, and including including the lower intake manifold. And if going that deep and not replacing all that can be tired is a HUGE mistake.
If details are too much work. DON'T fix cars. Assuming anything is just ........Lucky for you, JvG saved you from thinking you can handle this.
I always clean connector plugs when reattaching everything. Probably not necessary if never left unplugged for any period of time. But overkill usually won't hurt anything and sometimes helps.
I doubt the ECTS is your only problem, but you won't know until it's remedied.
Everything off the top of the engine, all the way down to, and including including the lower intake manifold. And if going that deep and not replacing all that can be tired is a HUGE mistake.
If details are too much work. DON'T fix cars. Assuming anything is just ........Lucky for you, JvG saved you from thinking you can handle this.
I always clean connector plugs when reattaching everything. Probably not necessary if never left unplugged for any period of time. But overkill usually won't hurt anything and sometimes helps.
I doubt the ECTS is your only problem, but you won't know until it's remedied.
I don't know why I never noticed it ever before! Maybe because I only log in when I post, and signatures are only seen by those that are logged in. Another reason to put the details in the POST when seeking help!
Some of the later 98s have the same intake as the 99s. Painful job to replace the knock sensor if so, and needed. .
Some of the later 98s have the same intake as the 99s. Painful job to replace the knock sensor if so, and needed. .
Also, battery disconnection and fully clearing stored DTCs certainly won’t hurt.
"ride along code", nice, i also have heard it called "piggy back code",
i have had the knock senor code almost 9 out of 10 times pop up when other codes are there, and each time when I address the other main problem code the knock sensor code goes away.
i actually had the knock sensor code pop up the first time all by itself the other day 1 week after inspection, i erased it and knock on wood it didn't come back. but i don't remember ever seeing it pop up alone like that.
i have had the knock senor code almost 9 out of 10 times pop up when other codes are there, and each time when I address the other main problem code the knock sensor code goes away.
i actually had the knock sensor code pop up the first time all by itself the other day 1 week after inspection, i erased it and knock on wood it didn't come back. but i don't remember ever seeing it pop up alone like that.
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