GLE 1999 Maxima V6. Has factory chip key. Factory remote works on door locks. Engine turns over but does not fire. Looked inside the oil fill cap verified the cam shaft was turning. Pulled 3 fault codes P0446, P1105, P1490. When cranking the engine sounds like it has compression. When the ignition is turned on I could hear the fuel pump run for 1 to 2 seconds. Measured 5 volts at the throttle body sensor. Measured 12 volts at the fuel injector. Pulled one of the coil packs and verified spark is present while cranking. Late today I will try starting fluid into the intake. Also will check to see if the injectors are being turned on by the ECM. This could be a fuel pressure issue. What should the fuel pressure be?

 

Tried starting fluid. As long as starting fluid was sprayed into throttle via air filter box the engine would run. Once spraying starting fluid stopped the engine would stop.
Measured the resistace of the Mitsubishi cam position sensor it was in just over 2000 ohms. This was a good value. The tachometer never showed engine speed. Used a scan tool that showed 0 RPM while cranking. I now suspect a bad crank sensor now. Used a test light on the fuel injectors. Could not see the light blink. But this was on bright sunny day. Will be doing more testing with an oscilloscope this week end.

 

Update. Tried a cosult programming cable on the Maxima that i got in the mail that day. Laptop could not establish a connection to the ECU. The adapter cable is a consult to USB. It has 3 LEDs on it. I could only get the red LED to come on. But via the OBD2 my scan tool could connect to the car. It's likely ECU has failed. The vehicle was parked at a condo visitor spot. People started to complain about it. The vehicle had to be moved. The tow truck came today to scrap out the car.

 

Which trouble lights are lit ?

Are any of them a solid red.

if so, which ones.

The 99 maxima has a complicated anti theft system.
Once it's tripped, many members have had to have their cars towed to the dealer shop.

 

This is 99 maxima. Then the ignition is rotated to the run (on) position the security (nats) light goes out, then comes on solid.
Once fault codes are cleared they did not come back. Tried the nats reset procedure. This did not work. Took the key auto lock specialist to test the chip in the key. It was OK.

 

What the H does "Tried the nats reset procedure. This did not work." Mean? You could bring 100 keys anywhere in the world and unless the car is there with them and a trained dude with a programming console registers those keys to the ECU in the car, they had a nice trip. And I hope you took pictures so you can laugh at yourself later in life.

Now unless you have a programming device with all the right cables and right software and know exactly how to use it on a 1999 Maxima, which uses the CONSULT port ONLY, you threw away a car because.of.... ________ . You fill in the blank.

 

I never attempted to program a key with consult port. Because I could not establish a connection with the ECU. I had only one key to try. The keys transponder chip was verified working by a locksmith. Now for the security LED. It was blinking until the key is rotated to the run position. The LED would go out then come on solid. This happens when the ECU does not send acnolige the key is valid in time to the immobilizer. On the orange data wire between the immobilizer and the ECU verified serial communication was present after a key ID read was attempted. I use a tester that indicates if the magnetic field is present arround the key in the ignition. This did a single blink when the ignition was turned on. The bad thing about the 1999 Maxima it is the first year they a chip key immobilizer. It's also only year where keys can only programmed or trouble shoot via the consult port. Newer Maximas this could be done by the OBD2 port. The lock Smith that checked the key function refused to work on this year Maxima. I checked with two Nissan dealerships only one still had the equipment to use the consult port. When I used my scan tool on the OBD2 port I was able to pull fault codes and read real time data.

Also a tip. When checking fault codes (DTC) be sure and check pending fault codes. Some codes need to present for awhile before they are registered. It may take a sustaind or mutiple cranking attempts for it to register.

 

Anything is repairable. It's matter of time effort and money. Bear in mind this Maxima is 24 years old and had 24 year long salt bath. The vehicle had some significant rust holes in the body.
The security LED would blink. Once the key was rotated to the ignition on position it would go out then come on solid. Indicating the vehicle is immobilized. Verified magnetic field was present around the key. Verified battery power was getting to the immobilizer. Verified ignition key switch power was getting to the immobilizer. Verified serial communication was ocurring between the immobilizer and the ICU. The immobilizer will turn on the Security LED solid if it does not get a valid key responce from the ICU.
Yes i did do a immobilizer reset out of lock out mode. This when the ignition is turned on for 5 seconds 3 times. For this to work all doors trunk hood must be closed and working key is used.

 

Well then.... I'll be the one to break the news to you.... That's a Fairy Tale. Amazing how many ignorant people kept spreading it! And how many more needed to believe it.

The ONLY way to disable NATS once triggered is a tow to the dealer and they REASSIGN the key to the ECU. Whichever key(s) that is assigned to the ECU and turning the engine with the door or hood open 5 times without starting, gets BLOCKED from being able to start the car. And if that's the only key. Then it's towed to the dealer or a MOBILE Locksmith comes there that has the right equipment and does it wherever the car is stuck. I have done BOTH. And the mobile locksmith cut my new transponder key and programmed it to work and REPROGRAMMED my original key to work too. $125. Half the cost of the dealer and the towing was $150 on top of that for under 5 miles.

So now you know..... And the junk yard has the car! OUCH! A pair of fog lights goes for $75 to $100 these days. Not to mention many other discontinued parts!

 

That's just it the parts that were needed are no longer available from Nissan. The one dealship that could do it is 20 miles away. Most mobile locksmiths could not reprogram the key into the ECU. Because they lack the proper equipment.
Remember that vehicle was parked in the visitors lot at a condo. When someone complains about non working rusty vehicle abandoned in thier lot. They have a tendency to go ballistic.

Immobilizer circuit board

Immobilizer under the dash drivers side.

 

The saddest part is you got BAD information that nobody called out on the Internet.

Nothing like SALTY roads ALL Winter long as well, to make a beautiful rust bucket!

Good luck with the next one! Hopefully with less 'Challenges". LOL

We've all learned the hard way..... And it always hurts!

 

Check the fuses and for power with a meter.

 

Do the following test. Insert key in the ignition with all doors hood, and trunk closed. Turn key to the run position. You should see the NATs (security) light go out and stay out. If it comes on solid the car is not recognizing the chip in the key. Try your spare key to see if you have the same problem. Two keys going bad at the same time is not likely.
One other thing. Check to see if some one added a metal decorative ring arround the the ignition key. This will block the radio signal. If you find one, remove it.

 

As I recall the anti theft system affects fuel delivery.
other members cars have also run a bit on starter fluid.

id say your car us basicly ok.

it's anti theft system has been triggered.