Hello guys, I'm in need of some assistance in trying to fix my niece's boyfriend's car that cranks but won't start, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Background: The car has 2 DTCs that I will be fixing as well, bank1 O2 and CAT, neither of which I believe are related to the no start issue at hand, the car was functional according to him, he parked the car one day last week and when he returned hours later, no start since.

Here is what I have done so far since they towed the car to me two days ago.

1. The car starts with starting fluid but will shut off as soon as the spray is cut off, this is to me is a clear indication that the problem is fuel.

2. To verified my suspicion that this is fuel related, I pulled the coils and plugs from bank 2 (the easier bank) and verified that all 3 cylinders had spark and compression was 180 across the board, I didn't feel it's necessary to check bank 1 at this point since there were absolutely no fuel on the plugs or in the cylinders even when I cranked the engine with each plugs out.

3. I then moved on to the fuel system, first I checked both fuse boxes, no relays or fuses were blown. The fuel pump does whine for few seconds when I turned the key to the on position so I knew the pump is priming the system or at least trying to. I removed the return hose off the FPR to verified that the fuel rail is getting fuel and that enough pressure was built to push open the FPR, fuel squirted out of the FPR return as soon as I turn the key to on, I concluded at this point that the pump is functioning properly and the only thing left was FPR, I eliminated that possibility by capping off the return and it made no difference in the no start condition.

And this is where I'm, the car has spark and good compression, it is getting fuel to the rail but the injectors are not firing for some reason, which narrows it down to CAM Position Sensor, Crank Position Sensor or the ECM...I think. Here are some follow up questions.

1. Between the CAM and Crank sensors, which controls fuel and which controls spark? Or is it both?

2. I pulled the CAM sensor before it got dark, based on Haynes Manual, the resistance should read between 1440 to 1760 unless it's made by Hitachi (2090-2550), I got a reading of 2340 but there are no manufacturer marking on the unit, is there anyway to tell which make I have?

3. I didn't remove the intake manifold so I can't see what's going on underneath it, am I correct in assuming that the fuel rail is a U shape and the fuel feed enters the rail at bank 2 (front) then wraps around and exits at bank 1? If so, why is there another FPR looking unit at the entrance of the rail?

I'm about to run out of options here, any answers, comments or suggestions on what I may have missed would be greatly appreciated.

 

only way to forsure rule out fuel is to get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up, fuel pumps dont always fully crap out, they can slowly go. could be getting not enough pressure and starting fluid just helps it run. plugged fuel filters will also cause a no-start, very rare but i have seen it happen.

 

Not too sure why we have two FPR's but as far as fuel injectors go the cam and crank sensors control only timing and spark. injectors are controled by ecu. so either ecu is bad or the key transponder has failed activating the theft system. is the security light by clock on?

Backghe EC

 

Thanks for the reply, I agree with that and it may turn out to be multiple problems at the end, that said, I'm absolutely sure the cylinders are not getting any fuel, not a drop, I would think some fuel will enter the cylinders even with low pressure if the injectors are opening.

 

Yes, the security light is on, is it suppose to be on?

Thanks

 

Sounds like you may have a Transponder issue. either bad transponder in ignition or the chip key is bad may of got wet or just messed up. may need to replace transponder and call a locksmith to come and reprogram a new key to get ecu out of lock down mode.

let somebody more experienced with this issue shine in.

 

Thanks, I hope it's as simple as that.

To be absolutely clear, the red light stays on solid when I turn the key to the "on" position, when I crank the engine, the red light blinks along with each crank but goes back to solid as soon as I stop cranking.

 

Ya definitely sounds like bad chip key hopefully not the transponder. Call a locksmith out they'll make new key and program it,if the transponders bad the locksmith will tell u quickly that their computer isn't communicating properly to it so transponders bad. Most the time its just a bad key.


before that check fuel pressure anything above 35psi your Good.

 

Thanks Travis, I think I found the problem.

I just got off the phone with the boyfriend, he had a locksmith come out to make him a new key 3 weeks ago when he thought he lost the only key he has, his buddy found the original key in his apartment last week, the key in my possession is the original key.

Does making a new key completely reprograms the ECM so that it would not accept the old key? Can they lock out the old key for fear of theft since it was lost? If so, I think he triggered the lockout by trying to use the old key when it was found last week. However, he said he has tried both keys since the no start, does the ECM need to be reprogrammed once the lockout is triggered in order to accept any keys?

Hopefully someone can help clarified.

 

I'm not too sure never had this issue. but if none the keys work call locksmith backout.and use only the one key he programs for the car throw others away. or mark that one for ignition.

 

Thanks again Travis, you have been a great help, I'm going to pick up the new key tomorrow and try it, will call the locksmith back out if it in fact does not work, hopefully that would be the end of it. I will post the result once it's in.

 

Kool and No problem that's what us Org members are here for!

 

Dude it's 100% a key chip/security problem from what you described. I've had the key chip on my old Infiniti I30 get worn out and it was loose and kinda slipping out of there, gave me same problem w/ starting. BTW, the security light is supposed to always blink, if it stays on the whole time that means something's up.

And then you said there was a new key made? Is this new key OEM or does it look different and made by this locksmith? Because I mean, far as I know those keys with the chip should be done at the dealership to be safe.

Also, each new Maxima I believe was programmed for the two keys that came with it new, so when you eliminate one of the OEM keys, and use an aftermarket key that can cause a problem also, you may have triggered a lockdown mode from the system due to this other key.

On my old Infiniti this wasn't cleared up completely until I went to the dealership, had to get a new key and they completely reprogrammed the whole thing. My advice is go to the dealership and get a new key if need be, don't **** it up and it'll last a lifetime.

 

Update

Finally picked up the new key (none OEM key) this morning and the car started right up, no need to even call the locksmith, they obvious never tried the new key after the initial no start with the old key but are too embarrassed to admit it LOL.

Thanks again everyone, hopefully this thread will help the next guy.