1999 Maxima. Was having issues starting where I would sometimes have to crank, then stop, then crank again and it would start.
After the car was towed to the shop for a axle replacement, the car would crank, but not start.
These are the codes I'm getting:
P1148 - closed loop RH Bank 1
P0130 - Oxygen Sensor
P0300 - Multiple cylinder misfire
P1105 - MAP/BARO Soleniod
P0403 - EGR Volume Control Circuit

I wan to test fuel pressure, but our cars don't have a test port. Are there any howtos or guides on how to test fuel pressure?
Also, I believe P0130 and P1148 are related where the former is causing the latter. But is it possible for a bad O2 sensor to cause a crank no start issue?

 

 

Before you go any further, make sure the red security light is not on and solid.

 

@@Turbobink thanks for the pic out of the FSM. That spurred me to go find my copy.

 

Thanks for the heads on on the security light. I had an immobilizer issue many years ago and got a new set of keys. For some reason I thought the mechanic said the immobilizer was removed, and I've had that thought in my head for all these years. But I looked up the NATS stuff in the FSM, and I think I might have a security issue because the security light stays on when the key is in the On position. Here's a video that shows the security light initially blinking, then the key inserted, then the key is turned to the on position and then the security light is solid along with other dash lights, but from what I'm reading it should not be solid at that point.

Video: 1999-maxima-security-light

 

Update. I called a locksmith to reprogram the keys. He was able to do it with a "T-300 plus" Key programming tool connected to the Consult port.
The security light was no longer solid when the key was turned to the "ON" position.
However, the car cranked, but did not start because I forgot that I removed the fuel pump fuse. When we were attempting to start the car, the starter did not sound good, sounded sluggish and I could see smoke coming off it it. It was shot.
I reinserted the fuel pump fuse and read 40 PSI of pressure when testing off of the fuel filter as I turned the key to the "ON" position.
I replaced the starter with a remanufactured starter.
I attempted to start the car and the starter seemed to slur.
I tested voltage on the battery, It was like 12.4 volts.
I jumped the car and cranked it a few times and it did start once, but I shut it off really quickly. When I tried again, it did not start. It would make a spinning sound, but not start.
At first I thought the starter was not engaging the fly wheel, but I made a video of it, and I can see my belts rotating when engaging the ignition switch: https://u.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZU92NVZWkXBjjxjUlBK8sBb8bP0iVXVKgKX

It reminds me of no start situations where the battery is low or when the starter is going bad. I wonder if it's turning the engine fast enough or if there aren't enough amps reaching the starter.
Not sure what to make of it at this point. Will continue to troubleshoot.

 

Many here over the years have had the sluggish starter thing. Many solved it with checking all the cables to and from the battery as well as clean all the termination ends and connectors. Might be a good time to do the same with the cables to the alternator. When you get it running, the voltage to the battery should be around 14.2 volts. And when not running, the battery should be around 13+ volts.

Also know, of all the parts that get replaced on 4th Gen Maximas, the aftermarket and rebuilt starters need more attempts to get right than anything else. So many go back and several times, people change brands and many get OEM used from JYs from lower mileage cars. Maxfever1987 has a 97 with 115K on it and he's parting it out. Might be an option.

And you still have those codes. When was the last time the EGR tube was cleaned and new gaskets installed? Probably all blocked with oily carbon to add another reason..

 

It's been 20 years since the EGR tube was cleaned. It's probably a good time to clean it and check the other things you mentioned.

 

Thanks everyone for their input regarding this problem. To provide and update and closure to this thread.
Chain of events:
1. keys got de-programmed car was immobilized via NATS. Solid security light when cranking.
2. reprogrammed keys via locksmith with a t-300 plus
3. left out fuel pump fuse by accident, so after reprogramming got no solid security light, but car wouldn't start, only crank.
4. tried jumping car in an attempt to start, jumped it with battery pack and a car in parallel thinking the pack was low and burnt out the starter in the process.
5. replaced the starter, car would crank, but not start, did not sound like I had ignition pulse, no security/anti-theft issues obvious.
6. at some point, the car would not crank at all and the dash lights would go dark when trying to start. Also weird buzzing and beeping noise could be heard in the cabin when turning the key to the ON position in this state. Door lock motors would click rapidly when trying to lock/unlock doors with key fob. The security light would be on sometimes when key is in the ON position but, but not during starting.
7. unlocking doors with the keys and letting the car sit overnight would sometimes allow the car to crank, but it would not start and it would eventually go back to the state described in #6.
8. found out about and executed the "Escape From Lock Mode" procedure and the car ultimately started and ran. And restarted and ran consistently.

These are the steps for the Escape From Lock Mode procedure:
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.

 

That's interesting, I've never heard of the Escape From Lock Mode procedure. Good job on that, and thanks for posting up the chain of events!

The only thing I can add is that my car doesn't like to crank if the battery voltage is below 12.4, but this may have something to do with the battery being relocated to the trunk. If your battery is at 100% state of charge, voltage should be 12.6 at the highest (unless you've been hooked up to a battery charger). If the voltage is 12.2 or below, the car probably won't start.

 

Yes, I would charge the battery via an external charger. This was a strange and frustrating problem where after the NATs issue was resolved, the factory anti theft system kept getting tripped and had the car in some weird state where it would go from crank no start (no spark) to no crank (dark dash). I would disconnect the battery, let it sit overnight, then open the doors with keys and then it would crank no start (no spark), then while troubleshooting crank no start (no spark), it would go into no crank (dark dash) and repeat this pattern. Eventually I couldn't event get it to crank via the battery disconnect overnight + open door with key method. Luckily that escape lock mode procedure worked, to my surprise.

 

Explain the "escape from lock mode" you've discovered.

What is this "T300" thing the locksmith has?

I've got a 95 Maxima that has running issues...had them since I got it. Sometimes it'll run for a minute and a half and then die, as if I shut the key off... and other times it will run for 10 minutes.. no rhyme or reason.
I've seen the theft system light down there on the bottom of the dash.. can't remember what the light is doing.

I've had keys cut... but keys without any rfid chip in them... just plain brass keys... I think I still have a key with the black plastic "head" on it, but not sure it's a chip key.

 

The Escape Lock Mode procedure is explained in the post above.
The is a device that is used to program keys.
The '99 is the first Maxima with the chipped key, so that wouldn't be your issue on a '95.
Your issue is around running, not cranking or starting, so it's a totally different issue that may warrant a separate thread.

 

I'm guessing that your issue is I caused by the
Engine Contol Temperatire Sensor.

also known as the ECTS.

the car will run well until the coolant gets warm
Then it will stall.

 

I'm not so sure about that. I haven't even tried to start the thing in close to a year.

To recap: The first time you start it, it may only run for a minute... minute and a half, then die as if you shut the key off. The tach needle will sputter a bit, then drop to zero and the engine will die.
It will instantly restart... run just a few seconds, then die for good. Try to start it again in maybe 15 minutes, it may start... run for a very short period, then die, and not start again.
Or... first time you start it, it may run for 4 or 5 minutes and start the dying thing... or it may run til I shut it off.

I've checked the fuel pressure while it's running and it had good pressure.... steady.... and when the engine would die, the pressure stayed up til the engine stopped, then it dropped, so no fuel pressure problem here.

I've connected a timing light to the wiring harness while the engine is running... stand there with the trigger pulled, let it run and run and run... and when it dies, the timing light goes dark as the engine dies.

SOmething is cutting off power to the ignition system.... and the temperature sending unit wouldn't have time to even begin to be affected by the water temperature in the block.

 

I hate to throw parts at the problem, but since it's so easy to do, you may want to consider replacing the ignition switch. A long time ago I had a problem with my car where I would be driving along, and if I turned the car in a certain way or went over a bump, it would shut off. IIRC that was resolved by tightening a loose screw on the ignition switch. More recently, I had an intermittent non-start problem that was permanently resolved with a new ignition switch.

 

what if it is onand stays on?

 

It means you have the dreaded NATS problem, assuming you have a 99 Maxima.