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Rear Driver side actuator replacement

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Old Sep 2, 2023 | 03:04 PM
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Rear Driver side actuator replacement

Hi, I am new to the forums here. I am here because I got another 4th gen maxima(1999) because my last one was involved in an accident that totalled it. My new(used) maxima has an issue with the rear door locking mechanism or actuator. I have successfully removed the panel but I am not quite sure how to remove the mechanism from the door through the panel. It looks like I would need to remove the window? I am not sure that is why I am here and I can not find anything on the Internet that explains this with a 4th gen maxima. My locking mechanism is not responding with the key fob while the others do and the rear door locking mechanism do not respond either withe the driver side switch while the others do. So I assume I need another locking actuator but I don't know how to do this. Any information would be great as I need it to work to be able to make deliveries. I put a photo to show how far I've gotten. I think I may have to remove window too? But if I don't have to I'd rather not.

This is how far I've gotten.




Thanks

Last edited by js8; Sep 2, 2023 at 03:14 PM. Reason: New Photo
Old Sep 2, 2023 | 04:21 PM
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Take the four bolts out and remove the support for the door panel. its wide open after that.
Old Sep 2, 2023 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Reality sucks

Take the four bolts out and remove the support for the door panel. its wide open after that.
What about the door handle? How do I disconnect the door handle from the mechanism? Thank you for your assistance.
Old Sep 2, 2023 | 07:09 PM
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I somehow I misread that and thought you were doing a regulator. I still would remove it, it gives you more access and you can see in there a bit more.

I start at the front of the door actually. Remove the interior handle where the lock rods are attached to them, then the white clip you see in the picture and then follow the rods back to the swing mechanism and unbolt it's single bolt there and then the screws in the latch. All in once piece. slide that forward. Ive found it better to remove and slide it all out together than fighting the rods in the door. Then you can access the exterior handle bolts. You will need a 6 inch extension to reach them through the holes in the door they align with them.

Last edited by Reality sucks; Sep 2, 2023 at 09:00 PM.
Old Sep 2, 2023 | 08:14 PM
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Ok, but I still have to remove the support bar you mentioned earlier? With the four bolts? I think I understand what your saying. I'm going to try it out tomorrow.
Old Sep 3, 2023 | 08:58 AM
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Does the solenoid move when you push the button? If so, it's not the solenoid but rather the linkage between the solenoid and lock switch on the latch mechanism. 95% of the time.
Old Sep 3, 2023 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
Does the solenoid move when you push the button? If so, it's not the solenoid but rather the linkage between the solenoid and lock switch on the latch mechanism. 95% of the time.
I am not sure yet. I have not removed it yet because I've been busy with other things. Also I don't have a new actuator yet and I want to be able to close the door. I figured it is bad so what's point of removing it untill I get another one? Here's another thing I know, the alarm won't arm (flashers wont flash) unless the doors lock is manually set to lock with my finger. The computer knows it's unlocked. The lock will only lock/unlock with me actually doing it myself.
Old Sep 3, 2023 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by js8
I am not sure yet. I have not removed it yet because I've been busy with other things. Also I don't have a new actuator yet and I want to be able to close the door. I figured it is bad so what's point of removing it untill I get another one? Here's another thing I know, the alarm won't arm (flashers wont flash) unless the doors lock is manually set to lock with my finger. The computer knows it's unlocked. The lock will only lock/unlock with me actually doing it myself.
I don't know where you got the idea the "Computer" knows it's unlocked. There is no sensor on every door and lock switch and latch mechanism. If the solenoid moves when you push the lock button on your FOB.... IT'S NOT THE SOLENOID! And if it doesn't move, make sure the wiring harness is still plugged into the solenoid. Sometimes they slip out. NONE OF THIS REQUIRES ANY DISASSEMBLY other than removing the trim panel.
Old Sep 6, 2023 | 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
I don't know where you got the idea the "Computer" knows it's unlocked. There is no sensor on every door and lock switch and latch mechanism. If the solenoid moves when you push the lock button on your FOB.... IT'S NOT THE SOLENOID! And if it doesn't move, make sure the wiring harness is still plugged into the solenoid. Sometimes they slip out. NONE OF THIS REQUIRES ANY DISASSEMBLY other than removing the trim panel.
I assumed some computer knew it was unlocked because the alarm would not set if it was unlocked. I have the trim off and I don't see anything disconnected. When you say solenoid are you referring to the locking actuator? If it is still good I'd like to know what else could be causing this issue. Thank you I appreciate the feedback
Old Sep 6, 2023 | 04:13 AM
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Update: So I was tinkering with it this morning and was able to get the locking mechanism out along with it the actuator that unlocks the door using@Reality sucks method above. However I had to unbolt two bolts for the left window slider/frame for it to slip out. I will be going to the junkyard later today to grab the actuator off of a car there, hopefully it is on that car. I was looking inside the window area and determined it was obvious at some point the window was left down as there is evidence of that happening and I think it fried the motor in the actuator. I'll update later, thanks for the responses I do appreciate it.
Old Sep 6, 2023 | 09:06 AM
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I went to the junkyard and got another actuator and installed it and it fixed the issue. It now locks like it should with the driver side switch and key fob. Tried to put everything back the way it was but for some reason the panel does not go flush like it was before or like the other side. I bought new door panel retainers maybe its because they weren't OEM. Thanks for the help
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