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1999 infinity I30 will crank but not start.

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Old 03-06-2024, 09:44 AM
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1999 infinity I30 will crank but not start.

I have a 1999 Nissan Infiniti I 30. Drove to the gas station was having no issues. Went to crank it to come back home and it wouldn’t start it. Tries and tries but won’t turn over and crank. Got it towed home I thought it was the fuel pump so we change the fuel pump and filter. Can hear the fuel pump engaging but it still isn’t cranking up. We’ve checked fuses, it is getting spark it will crank up momentarily with the help of some starter fluid. The security light on the dash does not come on at all. It doesn’t flash it doesn’t stay on it does not come on at all anybody have any idea where I should start next? Could it be the security system and all help is Greatly appreciated. it is a great car and it was running fine beforehand other than the instrument cluster (like the RPMs and all the gauges on the dash) would occasionally and randomly either cut off completely or just go kind of haywire while you’re driving. I don’t know if that has anything to do with anything help please!!
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Old 03-07-2024, 03:41 PM
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Well, dang... sorry you went through all the trouble of changing the fuel pump (not a particularly fun job). So are you saying that the security light USE to come on when you lock the car, but now it's not? Have you tried locking the car via the key in the door AND with the remote key FOB and still no security light? Granted, the security light not coming on is odd...like perhaps one of the door locks is not working and the car thinks it's still unlocked and therefore cannot arm itself (something to check at least). However, if this is what's happening with the security system, it shouldn't be interfering with the ability to start the car. I won't rule it out completely, but it seems unlikely to be the culprit. There is some YouTube content out there on bypassing the security system, but keep reading...

More likely, the crank-with-no-fire condition has something to do with your Key. The 99's were the first year to use a transponder key and the immobilizer system. In other words, if you just have a "regular key," even if it's cut correctly, the immobilizer system will prevent the engine from firing. Based on the fact that you sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and got it to "pop," they are probably accomplishing the immobilization feature by cutting the signals to the fuel injectors.

If you had another known good working key, that would be the first thing to try. Otherwise, you might be looking at a trip to the dealer to get a fresh key programmed into the car. At the end of the day, when the key is brought near to the ignition switch, a low-power wireless signal is being broadcast to the key, which in-turn transmits a response to the car with its identification code (basically just like a hotel key card). If the car has been programmed to recognize this key as "authorized" then all is well. If not, then no start.

SO, one of 3 possibilities:
1) your key's RF antenna has been damaged and is no longer functional. Did something happen with the keys while getting gas? In that case, time for a trip to the dealer for a new key and reprogramming.
2) the car is failing to transmit its "Hello! What's your name..." signal to the key in the first place. Yikes...no idea what would be required to fix this one. OR
3) the car has somehow lost its "database" of known good keys, and best-case scenario is that the old key could be reprogrammed

Unfortunately, the '99 is uniquely awkward in this department (different for 2000 and up) and requires some specialized hardware to actually perform the key programming. AND of course, since they have to physically access the car AND since it won't start, you'd be looking at another tow to the dealer. That stinks.

Here's an older post with some good info as well:
Transponder Key Replacement - Maxima Forums

Regarding jumpy tachometers and gauges in general... this is not uncommon, but should have no impact on starting. Fortunately, instrument clusters are fairly readily available on ebay, and not too expensive. If so inclined, it's not hard to replace individual gauges. My '96 had a jumping tach, and although my first two attempts at replacement were also jumpy, the third attempt was the charm. I have a sneaky suspicion that they don't like sitting for long periods of no use. Speedo, is a bit of a different story, since it's possible for it to disrupt your cruise control function. Gas gauge also moves around, but oddly enough I've kind of decided that I like it better than the normal steady operation.

Good luck on the no-start problem!

Last edited by pethelman; 03-07-2024 at 03:47 PM.
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