New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
#1
New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
Hey last Friday i got new front brake pads and had my rotors turned as well. My brakes still squeak on & off (not nearly as bad before I took my Max in though) But when i am driving, you can sometimes hear a squeaking sound.... I need your all's help. Thanks.
#2
Re: New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
Originally posted by 97MaxSE
Hey last Friday i got new front brake pads and had my rotors turned as well. My brakes still squeak on & off (not nearly as bad before I took my Max in though) But when i am driving, you can sometimes hear a squeaking sound.... I need your all's help. Thanks.
Hey last Friday i got new front brake pads and had my rotors turned as well. My brakes still squeak on & off (not nearly as bad before I took my Max in though) But when i am driving, you can sometimes hear a squeaking sound.... I need your all's help. Thanks.
Also, make sure you break them in using only modest brake pressure during this period - avoid hard braking, except in case of emergency. If you don't, it's possible to "glaze" the rotor surface.
#3
Re: Re: New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
Originally posted by KWheelzSB
Give the pads a few hundred miles (say, 300) to "bed in" to the rotors - if they're still squeaking after that, get back to us.
Also, make sure you break them in using only modest brake pressure during this period - avoid hard braking, except in case of emergency. If you don't, it's possible to "glaze" the rotor surface.
Give the pads a few hundred miles (say, 300) to "bed in" to the rotors - if they're still squeaking after that, get back to us.
Also, make sure you break them in using only modest brake pressure during this period - avoid hard braking, except in case of emergency. If you don't, it's possible to "glaze" the rotor surface.
#4
Re: Re: Re: New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
Originally posted by NmexMAX
i always hear about Maxi brakes squeaking, mine squea the firs few hundred miles but then they quiet down...
i always hear about Maxi brakes squeaking, mine squea the firs few hundred miles but then they quiet down...
Thanks.....but only 2 responses? Come on I need some help. Also, It snowed the other night & I slid into a curb w/ my wheels turned to the right. Today I noticed that when I steer to the right I hear a squeaking noise. What in the world could cause this? HELP.....
#5
Re: New front brake pads & got rotors turned....
Originally posted by 97MaxSE
Hey last Friday i got new front brake pads and had my rotors turned as well. My brakes still squeak on & off (not nearly as bad before I took my Max in though) But when i am driving, you can sometimes hear a squeaking sound.... I need your all's help. Thanks.
Hey last Friday i got new front brake pads and had my rotors turned as well. My brakes still squeak on & off (not nearly as bad before I took my Max in though) But when i am driving, you can sometimes hear a squeaking sound.... I need your all's help. Thanks.
#8
Is the braking better?...
I am planning on getting new pads and my rotors resurfaced tomorrow. Are the brakes much improved (Granted the squealing isn't, that's what this post is for - but is the stopping power improved)?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
Thanks,
-Cyrus
#9
Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by Vyrus
I am planning on getting new pads and my rotors resurfaced tomorrow. Are the brakes much improved (Granted the squealing isn't, that's what this post is for - but is the stopping power improved)?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
I am planning on getting new pads and my rotors resurfaced tomorrow. Are the brakes much improved (Granted the squealing isn't, that's what this post is for - but is the stopping power improved)?
Thanks,
-Cyrus
#10
Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
I am not a big fan of turning rotars, I just replaced my pads, I used Bendix pads and I do not have any squealing. Previously when I have had rotars turned I think eventually (probably within a year) your rotars will be thin and may cause vibrations (even with brand new pads) THis is the first time I have not had the rotars turned and this is the quietest the car has been.
#11
Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by 97MaxSE
So do you have any insight about the squeaking?
So do you have any insight about the squeaking?
-Cyrus
#12
Re: Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by ivolley
I am not a big fan of turning rotars, I just replaced my pads, I used Bendix pads and I do not have any squealing. Previously when I have had rotars turned I think eventually (probably within a year) your rotars will be thin and may cause vibrations (even with brand new pads) THis is the first time I have not had the rotars turned and this is the quietest the car has been.
I am not a big fan of turning rotars, I just replaced my pads, I used Bendix pads and I do not have any squealing. Previously when I have had rotars turned I think eventually (probably within a year) your rotars will be thin and may cause vibrations (even with brand new pads) THis is the first time I have not had the rotars turned and this is the quietest the car has been.
Buddy you are supposed to have your rotors turned every now & then....
#13
Noisy brakes can be from several sources:
1) pad material (probably not your problem)
2) missing shims that weren't transfered from old pads
3) not using 'disc quiet' goop or such
4) brakes haven't been broken in (as stated in a previous post)
5) foreign material lodged between pad and rotor
BTW - not bleeding the brakes doesn't cause any noises... only causes reduced braking when you have air in the system.
1) pad material (probably not your problem)
2) missing shims that weren't transfered from old pads
3) not using 'disc quiet' goop or such
4) brakes haven't been broken in (as stated in a previous post)
5) foreign material lodged between pad and rotor
BTW - not bleeding the brakes doesn't cause any noises... only causes reduced braking when you have air in the system.
#14
Re: Re: Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by 97MaxSE
Buddy you are supposed to have your rotors turned every now & then....
Buddy you are supposed to have your rotors turned every now & then....
I agree but most shops (atleast my experience has been) they want to cut the rotars. I have had rotars cut and within 3 months I had vibrations becuase the rotars were cut too thin or too close to specs. Stock rotars are not expensive, on my previous Maxima I opted to have the pads replaced and new rotars installed @ 85K miles (They had been cut by previous owner). The rotars on my current car were in very good shape so I decided to add pads, if i develope noise in the near future I made a mistake but If I continue to have a nice quiet braking experience I would have made the right decision. And besides you asked for our opinions and this has been my experience.
#15
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by ivolley
I agree but most shops (atleast my experience has been) they want to cut the rotars. I have had rotars cut and within 3 months I had vibrations becuase the rotars were cut too thin or too close to specs. Stock rotars are not expensive, on my previous Maxima I opted to have the pads replaced and new rotars installed @ 85K miles (They had been cut by previous owner). The rotars on my current car were in very good shape so I decided to add pads, if i develope noise in the near future I made a mistake but If I continue to have a nice quiet braking experience I would have made the right decision. And besides you asked for our opinions and this has been my experience.
I agree but most shops (atleast my experience has been) they want to cut the rotars. I have had rotars cut and within 3 months I had vibrations becuase the rotars were cut too thin or too close to specs. Stock rotars are not expensive, on my previous Maxima I opted to have the pads replaced and new rotars installed @ 85K miles (They had been cut by previous owner). The rotars on my current car were in very good shape so I decided to add pads, if i develope noise in the near future I made a mistake but If I continue to have a nice quiet braking experience I would have made the right decision. And besides you asked for our opinions and this has been my experience.
cutting rotors is another term for resurfacing or turning rotors.
what kind of pads are you using 97MaxSE? usually squeaking noise is associated with installtion. ive never had one brakejob comeback due to noise. I also dont belive brake disc quiet(goop) is necessary if the job is done correctly. If a shop did it for you you should bring it back to them and have them look at it.
#16
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Is the braking better?...
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
cutting rotors is another term for resurfacing or turning rotors.
what kind of pads are you using 97MaxSE? usually squeaking noise is associated with installtion. ive never had one brakejob comeback due to noise. I also dont belive brake disc quiet(goop) is necessary if the job is done correctly. If a shop did it for you you should bring it back to them and have them look at it.
cutting rotors is another term for resurfacing or turning rotors.
what kind of pads are you using 97MaxSE? usually squeaking noise is associated with installtion. ive never had one brakejob comeback due to noise. I also dont belive brake disc quiet(goop) is necessary if the job is done correctly. If a shop did it for you you should bring it back to them and have them look at it.
#18
could be
A couple more questions that aren't clear to bme from reading the stuff above...
1) Does the car squeak squeak squeak, then when you put your foot on the brake, it stops?
-or-
2) Is the car quiet when you're running, then the car squeeeeeeeekkks when you put your foot on the brake
Can you tell whether it comes from the front or the back or both?
Along with the things already mentioned,
(1) could be a caliper where the piston isn't retracting all the way and it is allowing the brake pad to drag on the rotor, or it could be a e-brake cable that is sticky or frozen again causing the caliper to drag. You'll probably get *really* hot rear rotors if the cable is a problem.
(2) Could be any of the things mentioned before, installation, shims, goop, cheap pads, glazing, etc.
I just had brakes done on my fronts; new factory pads and rotors turned. Alsolutely no problems. And, the wheels are *much* cleaner now with the factory pads.
BTW, the rotors do have minimum thickness spec and runout (wobble) spec (see potato chip analogy below) and the brake shop is not supposed to turn them once they fall beyond that spec -- the operative word there being "supposed". Think of a potato chip. Hold it in the center and spin it around and that's what an out-of-true rotor does. Because heat is your enemy, and the more metal, the better the heat sink, the less metal on the rotor (as removed by turning), the more likely the rotor is to warp. In a worst case if you go beyond spec, the rotor can crack or break causing catostrophic failure (autotechno speak for a smash-up).
Hope this helps.
1) Does the car squeak squeak squeak, then when you put your foot on the brake, it stops?
-or-
2) Is the car quiet when you're running, then the car squeeeeeeeekkks when you put your foot on the brake
Can you tell whether it comes from the front or the back or both?
Along with the things already mentioned,
(1) could be a caliper where the piston isn't retracting all the way and it is allowing the brake pad to drag on the rotor, or it could be a e-brake cable that is sticky or frozen again causing the caliper to drag. You'll probably get *really* hot rear rotors if the cable is a problem.
(2) Could be any of the things mentioned before, installation, shims, goop, cheap pads, glazing, etc.
I just had brakes done on my fronts; new factory pads and rotors turned. Alsolutely no problems. And, the wheels are *much* cleaner now with the factory pads.
BTW, the rotors do have minimum thickness spec and runout (wobble) spec (see potato chip analogy below) and the brake shop is not supposed to turn them once they fall beyond that spec -- the operative word there being "supposed". Think of a potato chip. Hold it in the center and spin it around and that's what an out-of-true rotor does. Because heat is your enemy, and the more metal, the better the heat sink, the less metal on the rotor (as removed by turning), the more likely the rotor is to warp. In a worst case if you go beyond spec, the rotor can crack or break causing catostrophic failure (autotechno speak for a smash-up).
Hope this helps.
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