New Dyno results!
You're an inspiration to us all.
I wish I had some more money. Uncle Sam is only giving me enough for a ypipe and maybe the cat too. I saw the video from 4psi and that was sweet, especially with 4 people in the car.
I am going to check the group deals out now to see if you've updated the price again. I gotta go get a ski mask...
I wish I had some more money. Uncle Sam is only giving me enough for a ypipe and maybe the cat too. I saw the video from 4psi and that was sweet, especially with 4 people in the car. I am going to check the group deals out now to see if you've updated the price again. I gotta go get a ski mask...
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 311
From: Algonquin, IL
I'm running 10-11lbs. of intercooled boost with a 30 shot of NOS.
Originally posted by turbo97SE
I noticed in your sig you have 345 and 375 for numbers AND you're auto! Those are GREAT numbers! How much boost are you running?
I noticed in your sig you have 345 and 375 for numbers AND you're auto
! Those are GREAT numbers! How much boost are you running?
Re: clutch
Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
Really? The street setup, not pucks? They are only rated to about 35o lbs. of torque, and he's past that already. It might last, but how long? Depends on launches, I suppose. Shred the tires, shred the clutch .... That's why I suggested the JWT Stage 2, rated for more power.
Funny, they don't list clutches for Maxima on their website (Cattman sells them, $425) but they do list TURBOS for Maxima. Anything going on with your setup???
Really? The street setup, not pucks? They are only rated to about 35o lbs. of torque, and he's past that already. It might last, but how long? Depends on launches, I suppose. Shred the tires, shred the clutch .... That's why I suggested the JWT Stage 2, rated for more power.
Funny, they don't list clutches for Maxima on their website (Cattman sells them, $425) but they do list TURBOS for Maxima. Anything going on with your setup???
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 653
Okay, Question time. Not flames, just questions from three of us here reading this thread (YDRSBTR, Generic, JDawgX):
1. Do you have a boost guage yet? And if so is it actually reading that boost consistantly?
2. What was the CF (correction factor) on your dyno runs? Should be between 1.2 and 1.21. These CFs are for NA (naturaly aspirated) vehicles. Turbo'd cars don't carry NEAR the same factor. Closer to NO correction at all. I would imagine at 9lbs you're sitting closer to 300 - 310 FWHP. Still great numbers but not what the dyno says.
3. What exactly are the make and the model of the turbo? And what wastegate are you using? What kind of a boost controller are you using?
Again, not to be flaming you, but there's a reason that SOOOO many people are questioning your numbers at the boost numbers that your listing.
I just qdon't want to see you dissapointed if you run a mid 14 up here (5800 ft. here in Co for those that don't know) with "350" FWHP. That's all I'm getting at here.
1. Do you have a boost guage yet? And if so is it actually reading that boost consistantly?
2. What was the CF (correction factor) on your dyno runs? Should be between 1.2 and 1.21. These CFs are for NA (naturaly aspirated) vehicles. Turbo'd cars don't carry NEAR the same factor. Closer to NO correction at all. I would imagine at 9lbs you're sitting closer to 300 - 310 FWHP. Still great numbers but not what the dyno says.
3. What exactly are the make and the model of the turbo? And what wastegate are you using? What kind of a boost controller are you using?
Again, not to be flaming you, but there's a reason that SOOOO many people are questioning your numbers at the boost numbers that your listing.
I just qdon't want to see you dissapointed if you run a mid 14 up here (5800 ft. here in Co for those that don't know) with "350" FWHP. That's all I'm getting at here.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Originally posted by JdawgX
Okay, Question time. Not flames, just questions from three of us here reading this thread (YDRSBTR, Generic, JDawgX):
1. Do you have a boost guage yet? And if so is it actually reading that boost consistantly?
2. What was the CF (correction factor) on your dyno runs? Should be between 1.2 and 1.21. These CFs are for NA (naturaly aspirated) vehicles. Turbo'd cars don't carry NEAR the same factor. Closer to NO correction at all. I would imagine at 9lbs you're sitting closer to 300 - 310 FWHP. Still great numbers but not what the dyno says.
3. What exactly are the make and the model of the turbo? And what wastegate are you using? What kind of a boost controller are you using?
Again, not to be flaming you, but there's a reason that SOOOO many people are questioning your numbers at the boost numbers that your listing.
I just qdon't want to see you dissapointed if you run a mid 14 up here (5800 ft. here in Co for those that don't know) with "350" FWHP. That's all I'm getting at here.
Okay, Question time. Not flames, just questions from three of us here reading this thread (YDRSBTR, Generic, JDawgX):
1. Do you have a boost guage yet? And if so is it actually reading that boost consistantly?
2. What was the CF (correction factor) on your dyno runs? Should be between 1.2 and 1.21. These CFs are for NA (naturaly aspirated) vehicles. Turbo'd cars don't carry NEAR the same factor. Closer to NO correction at all. I would imagine at 9lbs you're sitting closer to 300 - 310 FWHP. Still great numbers but not what the dyno says.
3. What exactly are the make and the model of the turbo? And what wastegate are you using? What kind of a boost controller are you using?
Again, not to be flaming you, but there's a reason that SOOOO many people are questioning your numbers at the boost numbers that your listing.
I just qdon't want to see you dissapointed if you run a mid 14 up here (5800 ft. here in Co for those that don't know) with "350" FWHP. That's all I'm getting at here.
2. Quite honestly, I don't know. I will find out. It's OK to question numbers. It is NOT my intention to lie about the numbers. I guess no matter what I will always be questioned on numbers ... quite frankly, I don't really care! I really only dyno to share results of boost mainly cos you guys hound me for data. Now my data is in question? Next people will be saying that I put on a different car on the dyno! I don't think I'll bother any more! Would everyone be happy if I tested at sea level? What's the nearest sea level dyno to CO? I am not flaming either, but there will always be someone out there questioning the numbers.
I am not a racer, never have been really! I have never even run the quarter mile stock or boosted! I am happy with the results and feel of the car. I can feel the power that is for sure! As far as being disappointed, there's no such thing for me cos I have never run it before, I do not have great expectations.
3. Make and model of turbo - Garrett T04e. If you had seen the GD and all the conversations in the past, you would have seen it. Boost controller is HKS EVC IV - very expensive for what it offers.
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
nice numbers Nigel...
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
t ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD,
t ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD,
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,308
i'm sorry to do this to you, but since you have an actual kit on your maxima, i'm sure you've gone to great lengths about turbocharger selection. can you please give me a brief education on the different types of turbos that can be used for our specific application and the pros and cons of each? thank you.
Originally posted by turbo97SE
OK Here is the dyno chart:
Dynorun 12 is actually @ 9 psi not 4 psi. As you can see, the dips are where the clutch gave out on me! It may have made a little more power and torque, but it's hard to tell at this point.
My engine is all stock at the moment. I think I'll hold of on building the motor for now. I am happy with 350 HP
. My tuner was even happier than I was. He's an awesome guy. He would have been happy with just over 300 HP!
I checked the plugs to see if I was running lean. They seem to be OK. I think they are running HOT. That is to be expected since I am running stock heat range ... I'll have to do a search, but where's the best place to get 2 heat ranges colder? I'll probably get copper plugs for cleaner ignition spark. How are iridiums?
I will probably go to 10 psi and that will be it. I probably won't bother to Dyno it though until later. That should put me in the 360s+ for HP and torque.
BOOST IS FUN!
I can't wait to see how Alex's turns out. His should show even better results for the same PSI since he has a 60-1 ... more efficient.
OK Here is the dyno chart:
Dynorun 12 is actually @ 9 psi not 4 psi. As you can see, the dips are where the clutch gave out on me! It may have made a little more power and torque, but it's hard to tell at this point.
My engine is all stock at the moment. I think I'll hold of on building the motor for now. I am happy with 350 HP
. My tuner was even happier than I was. He's an awesome guy. He would have been happy with just over 300 HP!I checked the plugs to see if I was running lean. They seem to be OK. I think they are running HOT. That is to be expected since I am running stock heat range ... I'll have to do a search, but where's the best place to get 2 heat ranges colder? I'll probably get copper plugs for cleaner ignition spark. How are iridiums?
I will probably go to 10 psi and that will be it. I probably won't bother to Dyno it though until later. That should put me in the 360s+ for HP and torque.
BOOST IS FUN!
I can't wait to see how Alex's turns out. His should show even better results for the same PSI since he has a 60-1 ... more efficient.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Originally posted by turbo97SE
What's the nearest sea level dyno to CO?
Boost controller is HKS EVC IV - very expensive for what it offers.
What's the nearest sea level dyno to CO?
Boost controller is HKS EVC IV - very expensive for what it offers.
OK, What's a boost controller? New to me - when I turboed my 240Z, all we had was exhaust diameter; wastegates were exotic racing equipment that nobody used but the new Porsche turbos.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
nice numbers Nigel...
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
nice numbers Nigel...
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
As for the JWT clutches, both stage 1 and 2 (JWT does NOT use those terms, if you talk to them) have the same pressure plate, different disks. The basic street disk is organic, the beefier one is metal on one side. Metal on both sides would be racing only, more like an "on-off switch" is how they described it (not very streetable).
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 373
Originally posted by OriginalMadMax
Closest dyno - probably in Texas
OK, What's a boost controller? New to me - when I turboed my 240Z, all we had was exhaust diameter; wastegates were exotic racing equipment that nobody used but the new Porsche turbos.
Closest dyno - probably in Texas
OK, What's a boost controller? New to me - when I turboed my 240Z, all we had was exhaust diameter; wastegates were exotic racing equipment that nobody used but the new Porsche turbos.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,394
A boost controller is an electronic device that reads the amount of boost your running, and opens/closes the wastegate accordingly to the desired boost. They're not need in low boost applications becuase the spring on your wastegate will open at the desired boost level, but can help cure boost creep and promote better boost responce.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 373
Originally posted by Maximamike
A boost controller is an electronic device that reads the amount of boost your running, and opens/closes the wastegate accordingly to the desired boost. They're not need in low boost applications becuase the spring on your wastegate will open at the desired boost level, but can help cure boost creep and promote better boost responce.
A boost controller is an electronic device that reads the amount of boost your running, and opens/closes the wastegate accordingly to the desired boost. They're not need in low boost applications becuase the spring on your wastegate will open at the desired boost level, but can help cure boost creep and promote better boost responce.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 606
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
nice numbers Nigel...
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
nice numbers Nigel...
i guess ill have to dyno soon to get the guys to stop talkin smack bout me. i got a couple driveability questions to ask you later on i guess.
im running the JWT stage 2 clutch, grips good for me, reason i like it so much cause you maintain a stock pedal feel. ACT holds good but has a stiffer pedal, that doesnt work for me, i hate the stiff pedal, but for others might be ok.
at that power level be prepared for things to break. i didnt post this yet but ive already snapped an axle, on street tires, but im running an LSD, chances are youll break your tires loose way before your axles give out.
NOw to answer some other questions:
1. Boost controller is exactly what it says, it controls boost. The wastegate opens at a specific pressure depending on what spring you have loaded in it. The boost controller tees in to the boost line and into a port on the wastegate. It detects the amount of boost and will "assist" the wastegate in when it should open. It will divert some of the boost gases if you want higher boost. You cannot go lower than the spring allows. There may be some way to turn down the boost, but I have not figured that out yet ... not that I really want to either.
2. As far as turbo types and sizes go, mine is a Garrett TO4E. It's pretty big and there are arguments ... or should I say opinions from different people on the board as to what the appropriate size should be. T3/T4 is a good choice too! That is what Matthel has on his set up. His will spool faster that is for sure, there is some debate as to whether or not that type of charger might be flow limited at higher rpm (no confirmation of this). I am sure it does a good job! In fact, that would have been my personal choice if I had made the kit myself from the theoretical calculations and cfm that the engine produces. I am VERY happy with my performance! This turbo is awesome with the boost controller I have I can turn boost up whenever I want to whatever I want (even if I want to blow he engine!) within 10 seconds from the comfort of the driver's seat.
3. The turbo XS is a mechanical boost controller not electronic. It basically tees into the boost pipe to your wastegate and vents boost to the atmosphere so your wastegate opens later. I am not 100% familiar with this controller but typically that's how they work. In fact it is easy to build your own. When I had my old exhaust, it only pushed 2 psi because of all the back pressure. I had to do a really cheesey T and pipe from the wastegate to get the boost to 4 psi.
Any more q's?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Originally posted by Maximamike
A boost controller is an electronic device that reads the amount of boost your running, and opens/closes the wastegate accordingly to the desired boost. They're not need in low boost applications becuase the spring on your wastegate will open at the desired boost level, but can help cure boost creep and promote better boost responce.
A boost controller is an electronic device that reads the amount of boost your running, and opens/closes the wastegate accordingly to the desired boost. They're not need in low boost applications becuase the spring on your wastegate will open at the desired boost level, but can help cure boost creep and promote better boost responce.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,804
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sexima
Thing = ?????????
What does he have in where?????
Is yours stock?
Can you be more vague?
Originally posted by turbo97SE
is your thing really stock?
what do you have in there except turbo?
is your thing really stock?
what do you have in there except turbo?
What does he have in where?????
Is yours stock?
Can you be more vague?
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Sexima
My thing??? My thing is stock (at least the last time I looked), it is plenty strong enough to do the job. I don't think I really need to fortify my thing since it stands up so well even to fairly high pressure! I will keep my thing until it wears out or does not perform to expectation. Transplants would be expensive and difficult to do for me right now.
Oh and my engine is stock too!
As for autos sorry dude, not right now. I think 5th gens 2000-2001 should be OK though.
Nigel
Originally posted by turbo97SE
is your thing really stock?
what do you have in there except turbo?
is your thing really stock?
what do you have in there except turbo?
Transplants would be expensive and difficult to do for me right now.Oh and my engine is stock too!
As for autos sorry dude, not right now. I think 5th gens 2000-2001 should be OK though.
Nigel
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