ME VI Installed
04-19-2002, 12:19 AM
#1
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ME VI Installed
Will be Dynoing this weekend.
Thanks to MardigrasMax for the advice.
Thanks to Jeff92SE, airmattdog, and most of all ebmorgan for the help.
I believe I am the first NA to do this...woohoo!
I will post Dyno results when I Dyno, of course.
IanS
04-19-2002, 08:18 AM
#6
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Originally posted by clee130
Next time, don't bother posting until you have dyno results!
We don't like being teased!
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
Next time, don't bother posting until you have dyno results!
We don't like being teased!
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
I was exhausted...12 hours. Ech.
I'll drive it later today and let you all know the Butt Dyno 2000.
IanS
04-19-2002, 08:19 AM
#7
[QUOTE]Originally posted by clee130
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
QUOTE]
I think the post is worth it for the picture alone
Most people don't read the 6+ page threads anymore anyway. I'll check out the dyno results when I get back in town. Were you able to get more pictures of the install Ian? Also could you post where you got the bolts and what your mods are
-hype
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
QUOTE]
I think the post is worth it for the picture alone
Most people don't read the 6+ page threads anymore anyway. I'll check out the dyno results when I get back in town. Were you able to get more pictures of the install Ian? Also could you post where you got the bolts and what your mods are -hype
04-19-2002, 08:28 AM
#8
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by xHypex
I took quite a few pictures. I am not going to go into detail in the write-up for each and every hose/bolt that needs to be removed for the install, but I will try my best to show good pics.
ebmorgan got the bolts at a local hardware store while I was at work the other day. He knows the exact size, so I'll ask him.
Performance Mods are only Pop Charger (K&N Filter) and WSP Y-Pipe.
That's all.
IanS
Originally posted by clee130
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
QUOTE]
I think the post is worth it for the picture alone Most people don't read the 6+ page threads anymore anyway. I'll check out the dyno results when I get back in town. Were you able to get more pictures of the install Ian? Also could you post where you got the bolts and what your mods are
-hype
Makes us feel cheap! (Well ... make me feel cheap anyways.)
QUOTE]
I think the post is worth it for the picture alone
Most people don't read the 6+ page threads anymore anyway. I'll check out the dyno results when I get back in town. Were you able to get more pictures of the install Ian? Also could you post where you got the bolts and what your mods are -hype
ebmorgan got the bolts at a local hardware store while I was at work the other day. He knows the exact size, so I'll ask him.
Performance Mods are only Pop Charger (K&N Filter) and WSP Y-Pipe.
That's all.
IanS
04-19-2002, 02:01 PM
#15
Wake Up!!!
Originally posted by iansw
I took quite a few pictures. I am not going to go into detail in the write-up for each and every hose/bolt that needs to be removed for the install, but I will try my best to show good pics.
ebmorgan got the bolts at a local hardware store while I was at work the other day. He knows the exact size, so I'll ask him.
Performance Mods are only Pop Charger (K&N Filter) and WSP Y-Pipe.
That's all.
IanS
I took quite a few pictures. I am not going to go into detail in the write-up for each and every hose/bolt that needs to be removed for the install, but I will try my best to show good pics.
ebmorgan got the bolts at a local hardware store while I was at work the other day. He knows the exact size, so I'll ask him.
Performance Mods are only Pop Charger (K&N Filter) and WSP Y-Pipe.
That's all.
IanS
Just kidding, I just car about the dyno butt not really the real dyno
04-19-2002, 02:47 PM
#16
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Well, I have a problem. The RPM switch isn't working.
I sent a mail to Harlan's Devices asking about it...here it is...any ideas???
We are using an RPM Switch of yours to activate through a relay a MAP Switch on a 1997 Maxima.
We have the positive of the RPM switch going to the RED (Positive constant) on the Ignition Coil
Green is going to the Pulsed +12v of the coil (Green/Grey)
Black is going to the ground on the coil (Black on the coil also)
The White wire on the RPM switch goes into a switching ground on a relay, which then should activate the relay and give +12v to the MAP switch.
When hitting 1500 RPM’s, nothing happens. We verified the settings for both cylinders and for RPMs (6 flashed for cylinder, 1, then 5 more for RPM). Also, the fact that we can see the LED flash and everything shows the switch is getting proper power.
We tested the ground (white wire) going to the relay at above 1500 RPM’s, and there is no ground signal.
Either the RPM switch is broken, or we are doing something wrong here.
We have also tested the relay, and it works fine.
Please help!
Thanks,
IanS
I sent a mail to Harlan's Devices asking about it...here it is...any ideas???
We are using an RPM Switch of yours to activate through a relay a MAP Switch on a 1997 Maxima.
We have the positive of the RPM switch going to the RED (Positive constant) on the Ignition Coil
Green is going to the Pulsed +12v of the coil (Green/Grey)
Black is going to the ground on the coil (Black on the coil also)
The White wire on the RPM switch goes into a switching ground on a relay, which then should activate the relay and give +12v to the MAP switch.
When hitting 1500 RPM’s, nothing happens. We verified the settings for both cylinders and for RPMs (6 flashed for cylinder, 1, then 5 more for RPM). Also, the fact that we can see the LED flash and everything shows the switch is getting proper power.
We tested the ground (white wire) going to the relay at above 1500 RPM’s, and there is no ground signal.
Either the RPM switch is broken, or we are doing something wrong here.
We have also tested the relay, and it works fine.
Please help!
Thanks,
IanS
04-19-2002, 02:57 PM
#18
That is a stinker
Originally posted by iansw
Well, I have a problem. The RPM switch isn't working.
I sent a mail to Harlan's Devices asking about it...here it is...any ideas???
We are using an RPM Switch of yours to activate through a relay a MAP Switch on a 1997 Maxima.
We have the positive of the RPM switch going to the RED (Positive constant) on the Ignition Coil
Green is going to the Pulsed +12v of the coil (Green/Grey)
Black is going to the ground on the coil (Black on the coil also)
The White wire on the RPM switch goes into a switching ground on a relay, which then should activate the relay and give +12v to the MAP switch.
When hitting 1500 RPM’s, nothing happens. We verified the settings for both cylinders and for RPMs (6 flashed for cylinder, 1, then 5 more for RPM). Also, the fact that we can see the LED flash and everything shows the switch is getting proper power.
We tested the ground (white wire) going to the relay at above 1500 RPM’s, and there is no ground signal.
Either the RPM switch is broken, or we are doing something wrong here.
We have also tested the relay, and it works fine.
Please help!
Thanks,
IanS
Well, I have a problem. The RPM switch isn't working.
I sent a mail to Harlan's Devices asking about it...here it is...any ideas???
We are using an RPM Switch of yours to activate through a relay a MAP Switch on a 1997 Maxima.
We have the positive of the RPM switch going to the RED (Positive constant) on the Ignition Coil
Green is going to the Pulsed +12v of the coil (Green/Grey)
Black is going to the ground on the coil (Black on the coil also)
The White wire on the RPM switch goes into a switching ground on a relay, which then should activate the relay and give +12v to the MAP switch.
When hitting 1500 RPM’s, nothing happens. We verified the settings for both cylinders and for RPMs (6 flashed for cylinder, 1, then 5 more for RPM). Also, the fact that we can see the LED flash and everything shows the switch is getting proper power.
We tested the ground (white wire) going to the relay at above 1500 RPM’s, and there is no ground signal.
Either the RPM switch is broken, or we are doing something wrong here.
We have also tested the relay, and it works fine.
Please help!
Thanks,
IanS
04-20-2002, 12:23 AM
#20
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More problems, and butt dyno
The RPM thing I still haven't figured out.
I keep looking at it waiting for my brain to go "Doh!" and see the obvious. But there is nothing obvious. It just isn't working. @#!#!@!!!.
Also, the Dawes Devices MAP/Baro switch doesn't work. It activates when you give it power, and pulls the actuator via the vacuum like it should. But when you deactivate the switch, even though it goes to the open air setting like it should, it doesn't release the vacuum pressure to the actuator, thereby holding it open.
I'm going to a junkyard tomorrow to find the MAP/Baro switch MardisGrasMax used. I have located it on my engine (it's being used for something else, obviously), so it won't be hard to find in a junkyard.
The good news is that I just left the MAP/Baro switch on, with the actuator open, and took it for a drive.
A little loss in low end, which is expected, because the flaps are open. But HOLY F*CKING COW! on high end....
I had no idea what +20hp felt like. I nearly passed out from happiness.
I'm hoping to God that it's not my imagination. Sure didn't feel like it.
But I know myself, and I know I tend to see things that aren't there when I'm emotionally distressed, as I have been all day.
I'll take ebmorgan for a ride tomorrow and see what he thinks, just for verification, and to see the smile on his face.
IanS
I keep looking at it waiting for my brain to go "Doh!" and see the obvious. But there is nothing obvious. It just isn't working. @#!#!@!!!.
Also, the Dawes Devices MAP/Baro switch doesn't work. It activates when you give it power, and pulls the actuator via the vacuum like it should. But when you deactivate the switch, even though it goes to the open air setting like it should, it doesn't release the vacuum pressure to the actuator, thereby holding it open.
I'm going to a junkyard tomorrow to find the MAP/Baro switch MardisGrasMax used. I have located it on my engine (it's being used for something else, obviously), so it won't be hard to find in a junkyard.
The good news is that I just left the MAP/Baro switch on, with the actuator open, and took it for a drive.
A little loss in low end, which is expected, because the flaps are open. But HOLY F*CKING COW! on high end....
I had no idea what +20hp felt like. I nearly passed out from happiness.
I'm hoping to God that it's not my imagination. Sure didn't feel like it.
But I know myself, and I know I tend to see things that aren't there when I'm emotionally distressed, as I have been all day.
I'll take ebmorgan for a ride tomorrow and see what he thinks, just for verification, and to see the smile on his face.
IanS
04-20-2002, 06:02 AM
#22
Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Dawes Devices Solenoid: This should work flawlessly. I've tested it and it is perfect for this application. Double check which port is the primary port and which is the switched ports. The primary is the middle one, if I remember. At default (no power) the other port where you CANNOT blow into is the switched port to your vacuum canister. The port you CAN blow into is the vent to air which should deactivate your actuator. I think you might have the port wrong maybe.
HarlanRPM. Never attached the thing to the ignition coils. For most of us shift light folks, it is a simple matter to access the guage cluster on the inside and use the green wire to the tach line. This for sure works. For testing purposes, set the Harlan for 500rpm ie. less than idle. You can then test the grounded line using a multimeter... The green wire might have to be extended through the firewall if you access it through the guage though...
HarlanRPM. Never attached the thing to the ignition coils. For most of us shift light folks, it is a simple matter to access the guage cluster on the inside and use the green wire to the tach line. This for sure works. For testing purposes, set the Harlan for 500rpm ie. less than idle. You can then test the grounded line using a multimeter... The green wire might have to be extended through the firewall if you access it through the guage though...
04-20-2002, 02:27 PM
#24
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:o)
Originally posted by NickStam
After everything is done, you gotta do a nice 'how-to.'
After everything is done, you gotta do a nice 'how-to.'
Agreed. A NICE one - including EVERYTHING, every little step. That's what I did for my SC write-up, a monkey could install an SC with my write-up.
If you could do the same Ian, that would be great. Thanks again for all your hard work. And don't feel any pressure because you 'teased' us. Take your time man. It will all happen in the end. -Josh
04-20-2002, 08:19 PM
#25
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Re: Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Originally posted by Mishmosh
Dawes Devices Solenoid: This should work flawlessly. I've tested it and it is perfect for this application. Double check which port is the primary port and which is the switched ports. The primary is the middle one, if I remember. At default (no power) the other port where you CANNOT blow into is the switched port to your vacuum canister. The port you CAN blow into is the vent to air which should deactivate your actuator. I think you might have the port wrong maybe.
HarlanRPM. Never attached the thing to the ignition coils. For most of us shift light folks, it is a simple matter to access the guage cluster on the inside and use the green wire to the tach line. This for sure works. For testing purposes, set the Harlan for 500rpm ie. less than idle. You can then test the grounded line using a multimeter... The green wire might have to be extended through the firewall if you access it through the guage though...
Dawes Devices Solenoid: This should work flawlessly. I've tested it and it is perfect for this application. Double check which port is the primary port and which is the switched ports. The primary is the middle one, if I remember. At default (no power) the other port where you CANNOT blow into is the switched port to your vacuum canister. The port you CAN blow into is the vent to air which should deactivate your actuator. I think you might have the port wrong maybe.
HarlanRPM. Never attached the thing to the ignition coils. For most of us shift light folks, it is a simple matter to access the guage cluster on the inside and use the green wire to the tach line. This for sure works. For testing purposes, set the Harlan for 500rpm ie. less than idle. You can then test the grounded line using a multimeter... The green wire might have to be extended through the firewall if you access it through the guage though...
It is now WORKING.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The RPM switch works fine connected to the coil. I just had the setting wrong. I set it for 6 cylinders, and it should have been set to "coil per cylinder". Problem solved.
I ended up getting a solenoid at a junkyard off a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for $2.50. If you go to a junkyard, those cars are somewhat plentiful, and the solenoids (there's 3 of them, just pick one) are attached to the Air Intake box. It seems to be a common part, used to make and release pressure in the line for Cruise Controls.
It worked perfectly.
Writeup and Dyno charts to follow at the end of this week, pending my time constraints (gotta work to pay for this!)
Anyway, I took her for a drive, and I only have this to post about that. A picture of my best bud, ebmorgan:
04-20-2002, 08:28 PM
#26
Re: Re: Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Originally posted by iansw
OK....
It is now WORKING.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The RPM switch works fine connected to the coil. I just had the setting wrong. I set it for 6 cylinders, and it should have been set to "coil per cylinder". Problem solved.
I ended up getting a solenoid at a junkyard off a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for $2.50. If you go to a junkyard, those cars are somewhat plentiful, and the solenoids (there's 3 of them, just pick one) are attached to the Air Intake box. It seems to be a common part, used to make and release pressure in the line for Cruise Controls.
It worked perfectly.
Writeup and Dyno charts to follow at the end of this week, pending my time constraints (gotta work to pay for this!)
Anyway, I took her for a drive, and I only have this to post about that. A picture of my best bud, ebmorgan:
OK....
It is now WORKING.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The RPM switch works fine connected to the coil. I just had the setting wrong. I set it for 6 cylinders, and it should have been set to "coil per cylinder". Problem solved.
I ended up getting a solenoid at a junkyard off a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for $2.50. If you go to a junkyard, those cars are somewhat plentiful, and the solenoids (there's 3 of them, just pick one) are attached to the Air Intake box. It seems to be a common part, used to make and release pressure in the line for Cruise Controls.
It worked perfectly.
Writeup and Dyno charts to follow at the end of this week, pending my time constraints (gotta work to pay for this!)
Anyway, I took her for a drive, and I only have this to post about that. A picture of my best bud, ebmorgan:
"It has kick"
04-20-2002, 08:31 PM
#27
Re: Re: Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Originally posted by iansw
OK....
It is now WORKING.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The RPM switch works fine connected to the coil. I just had the setting wrong. I set it for 6 cylinders, and it should have been set to "coil per cylinder". Problem solved.
I ended up getting a solenoid at a junkyard off a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for $2.50. If you go to a junkyard, those cars are somewhat plentiful, and the solenoids (there's 3 of them, just pick one) are attached to the Air Intake box. It seems to be a common part, used to make and release pressure in the line for Cruise Controls.
It worked perfectly.
Writeup and Dyno charts to follow at the end of this week, pending my time constraints (gotta work to pay for this!)
Anyway, I took her for a drive, and I only have this to post about that. A picture of my best bud, ebmorgan:
OK....
It is now WORKING.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The RPM switch works fine connected to the coil. I just had the setting wrong. I set it for 6 cylinders, and it should have been set to "coil per cylinder". Problem solved.
I ended up getting a solenoid at a junkyard off a 1987 Nissan Pulsar NX for $2.50. If you go to a junkyard, those cars are somewhat plentiful, and the solenoids (there's 3 of them, just pick one) are attached to the Air Intake box. It seems to be a common part, used to make and release pressure in the line for Cruise Controls.
It worked perfectly.
Writeup and Dyno charts to follow at the end of this week, pending my time constraints (gotta work to pay for this!)
Anyway, I took her for a drive, and I only have this to post about that. A picture of my best bud, ebmorgan:
-John
04-20-2002, 09:22 PM
#29
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Actually, I'm working for someone else tomorrow to cover their shift while they are on vacation.
That means I have 8 hours I can probably take off sometime this week, depending on what projects are going on at work, meetings, my boss being in a bad mood, etc...
So I may take Monday off (or at least part of it), and get it Dynoed.
We'll see.
IanS
That means I have 8 hours I can probably take off sometime this week, depending on what projects are going on at work, meetings, my boss being in a bad mood, etc...
So I may take Monday off (or at least part of it), and get it Dynoed.
We'll see.
IanS
04-20-2002, 09:37 PM
#31
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Originally posted by PRPmax
Great job.
Great job.
By the way, I will be selling these, price is going to be between $550-$570, depending on where you live and shipping costs to you.
I'm shipping the other one I bought to speedtrip Monday morning, and he lives about as far away from me as anyone can (Maryland), so that will give me a better idea of shipping costs.
Also, depending on what the guy in the ME will give me for shipping in quantity to Seattle, it may cost less also.
It definately won't cost more.
04-20-2002, 09:59 PM
#33
Originally posted by iansw
Gotta give ebmorgan, airmattdog, and Jeff92SE much credit.
By the way, I will be selling these, price is going to be between $550-$570, depending on where you live and shipping costs to you.
I'm shipping the other one I bought to speedtrip Monday morning, and he lives about as far away from me as anyone can (Maryland), so that will give me a better idea of shipping costs.
Also, depending on what the guy in the ME will give me for shipping in quantity to Seattle, it may cost less also.
It definately won't cost more.
Gotta give ebmorgan, airmattdog, and Jeff92SE much credit.
By the way, I will be selling these, price is going to be between $550-$570, depending on where you live and shipping costs to you.
I'm shipping the other one I bought to speedtrip Monday morning, and he lives about as far away from me as anyone can (Maryland), so that will give me a better idea of shipping costs.
Also, depending on what the guy in the ME will give me for shipping in quantity to Seattle, it may cost less also.
It definately won't cost more.
04-21-2002, 06:17 AM
#34
Re: Re: Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Originally posted by iansw
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
The Dawes Devices solenoid does NOT work. It has no way to release the vacuum pressure in the line once it opens then closes again. I discussed this with the person at Dawes Devices, and he agreed that the way it comes, it will not work. You COULD poke a hole in the side of the chamber (a very small one), and that may work. (As he stated.) I can post a copy of his E-Mail if you like. I also hooked it up in every combination possible, with no luck. It either is open all the time, doesn't open at all, or opens and doesn't release vacuum.
Edit: here's a pic. If you blow in the middle port, the air should exit out of the vent port. This is what releases any vacuum applied to the actuator.
04-21-2002, 06:56 AM
#35
Re: :o)
Originally posted by ptatohed
Agreed. A NICE one - including EVERYTHING, every little step. That's what I did for my SC write-up, a monkey could install an SC with my write-up. If you could do the same Ian, that would be great. Thanks again for all your hard work. And don't feel any pressure because you 'teased' us. Take your time man. It will all happen in the end.
-Josh
Agreed. A NICE one - including EVERYTHING, every little step. That's what I did for my SC write-up, a monkey could install an SC with my write-up.
If you could do the same Ian, that would be great. Thanks again for all your hard work. And don't feel any pressure because you 'teased' us. Take your time man. It will all happen in the end. -Josh
04-21-2002, 07:31 AM
#36
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Re: Re: Re: Re: More problems, and butt dyno
Originally posted by Mishmosh
Is it just your solenoid that is defective? Because I switched it on/off multiple times and it opened/closed the valves on the MEVI with no problems releasing whatsoever. I still don't know what you mean when you say it won't release the vacuum. The default port is vented to air and the actuator is in line with this via the primary port when no power is applied. In this state, any vacuum that was going to the actuator will vent to air, releasing the valves...
Edit: here's a pic. If you blow in the middle port, the air should exit out of the vent port. This is what releases any vacuum applied to the actuator.
Is it just your solenoid that is defective? Because I switched it on/off multiple times and it opened/closed the valves on the MEVI with no problems releasing whatsoever. I still don't know what you mean when you say it won't release the vacuum. The default port is vented to air and the actuator is in line with this via the primary port when no power is applied. In this state, any vacuum that was going to the actuator will vent to air, releasing the valves...
Edit: here's a pic. If you blow in the middle port, the air should exit out of the vent port. This is what releases any vacuum applied to the actuator.
Hmmmmm. But the fact is, for me, it didn't work.
No biggie, it only cost me $2.50 for another one that is not plastic (it's near the engine, and that worried me anyway.
Anyway, write-up will come soon, and Dyno. Total install took about 12 hours, but that was with alot of BS'ing and learning curve and figuring out the RPM switch. A determined person could do it in 3-5 hours. Someone who's done it before could probably do it in under 2 hours.
Our biggest problem was getting at the bracket bolts at the back of the engine. My arm still hurts from that one.
IanS
04-21-2002, 10:02 AM
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Originally posted by Jeff92se
Note to Jeff92se: He needs to take a drive. heh.
Nice job Ians! EB was the most involved in the work
Note to Jeff92se: He needs to take a drive. heh.
Nice job Ians! EB was the most involved in the work
IanS
04-21-2002, 12:44 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 617
My 2 cents....
Okay...this is what I have to say about the ME VI....
1) The rear manifold bolts are a BEE-I-ITCH!!!! You better have little hands if you're even thinking about attempting this mod....no bullsh*t!!
2) The Dawes Baro is plastic and cost $35.....funk dat....
Get your metal MAP/Baro from a junked Nissan for $2.50. A crappy MAP/Baro was the only problem we had and it doubled out work time.
3) DO A GOOD WIRING JOB!!! Everyone overlooks the quality of crimps. DON'T USE WIRE TAPS....They suck a$$. And use lots of electrical tape. I'll take some close ups of the more ****/intricate step I took to get this installed.
3) Don't worry about all the hoses and other parts when stripping the manifold off. When you put the ME VI on you'll see where everything goes. Just make sure you get EVERYTHING plugged back in. And this is a mod that will yield "extra parts". One accessory bracket and the EVAP purge valve have no place to attach on the MEVI.
4) When running your new vacume hose, make sure it doesn't run under the rockers of your throttle body...it'll cause your throttle to stay open resulting in HIGH rpm in park or even an accident.....sorry Iansw....my bad....
5) Take the time to make it a pretty install. There's a lot of wires and hoses for this install. Take the time to make it pretty....it's worth it.
Butt Dyno 2000 reports about +25-30 hp. It's a great feeling! When your at 4500rpm and the accelleration is starting to plataue....whoosh!!! You get pushed against your seat again!!!!! Kind of like a nitrous power shot. No loss in the low-end....only high-end gains with this mod, Baby!!! And it has a cool resonance sound at about 5000-5500rpm.
THIS MOD IS DEFINATLEY WORTH EVERY PENNY, CUT, SCRAPE and BURN!!! I think the way it looks is almost worth it!
1) The rear manifold bolts are a BEE-I-ITCH!!!! You better have little hands if you're even thinking about attempting this mod....no bullsh*t!!
2) The Dawes Baro is plastic and cost $35.....funk dat....
Get your metal MAP/Baro from a junked Nissan for $2.50. A crappy MAP/Baro was the only problem we had and it doubled out work time.
3) DO A GOOD WIRING JOB!!! Everyone overlooks the quality of crimps. DON'T USE WIRE TAPS....They suck a$$. And use lots of electrical tape. I'll take some close ups of the more ****/intricate step I took to get this installed.
3) Don't worry about all the hoses and other parts when stripping the manifold off. When you put the ME VI on you'll see where everything goes. Just make sure you get EVERYTHING plugged back in. And this is a mod that will yield "extra parts". One accessory bracket and the EVAP purge valve have no place to attach on the MEVI.
4) When running your new vacume hose, make sure it doesn't run under the rockers of your throttle body...it'll cause your throttle to stay open resulting in HIGH rpm in park or even an accident.....sorry Iansw....my bad....
5) Take the time to make it a pretty install. There's a lot of wires and hoses for this install. Take the time to make it pretty....it's worth it.
Butt Dyno 2000 reports about +25-30 hp. It's a great feeling! When your at 4500rpm and the accelleration is starting to plataue....whoosh!!! You get pushed against your seat again!!!!! Kind of like a nitrous power shot. No loss in the low-end....only high-end gains with this mod, Baby!!! And it has a cool resonance sound at about 5000-5500rpm.
THIS MOD IS DEFINATLEY WORTH EVERY PENNY, CUT, SCRAPE and BURN!!! I think the way it looks is almost worth it!
04-21-2002, 12:50 PM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Puyallup WA
Posts: 7,938
Re: My 2 cents....
Originally posted by ebmorgan
Okay...this is what I have to say about the ME VI....
1) The rear manifold bolts are a BEE-I-ITCH!!!! You better have little hands if you're even thinking about attempting this mod....no bullsh*t!!
2) The Dawes Baro is plastic and cost $35.....funk dat....
Get your metal MAP/Baro from a junked Nissan for $2.50. A crappy MAP/Baro was the only problem we had and it doubled out work time.
3) DO A GOOD WIRING JOB!!! Everyone overlooks the quality of crimps. DON'T USE WIRE TAPS....They suck a$$. And use lots of electrical tape. I'll take some close ups of the more ****/intricate step I took to get this installed.
3) Don't worry about all the hoses and other parts when stripping the manifold off. When you put the ME VI on you'll see where everything goes. Just make sure you get EVERYTHING plugged back in. And this is a mod that will yield "extra parts". One accessory bracket and the EVAP purge valve have no place to attach on the MEVI.
4) When running your new vacume hose, make sure it doesn't run under the rockers of your throttle body...it'll cause your throttle to stay open resulting in HIGH rpm in park or even an accident.....sorry Iansw....my bad....
5) Take the time to make it a pretty install. There's a lot of wires and hoses for this install. Take the time to make it pretty....it's worth it.
Butt Dyno 2000 reports about +25-30 hp. It's a great feeling! When your at 4500rpm and the accelleration is starting to plataue....whoosh!!! You get pushed against your seat again!!!!! Kind of like a nitrous power shot. No loss in the low-end....only high-end gains with this mod, Baby!!! And it has a cool resonance sound at about 5000-5500rpm.
THIS MOD IS DEFINATLEY WORTH EVERY PENNY, CUT, SCRAPE and BURN!!! I think the way it looks is almost worth it!
Okay...this is what I have to say about the ME VI....
1) The rear manifold bolts are a BEE-I-ITCH!!!! You better have little hands if you're even thinking about attempting this mod....no bullsh*t!!
2) The Dawes Baro is plastic and cost $35.....funk dat....
Get your metal MAP/Baro from a junked Nissan for $2.50. A crappy MAP/Baro was the only problem we had and it doubled out work time.
3) DO A GOOD WIRING JOB!!! Everyone overlooks the quality of crimps. DON'T USE WIRE TAPS....They suck a$$. And use lots of electrical tape. I'll take some close ups of the more ****/intricate step I took to get this installed.
3) Don't worry about all the hoses and other parts when stripping the manifold off. When you put the ME VI on you'll see where everything goes. Just make sure you get EVERYTHING plugged back in. And this is a mod that will yield "extra parts". One accessory bracket and the EVAP purge valve have no place to attach on the MEVI.
4) When running your new vacume hose, make sure it doesn't run under the rockers of your throttle body...it'll cause your throttle to stay open resulting in HIGH rpm in park or even an accident.....sorry Iansw....my bad....
5) Take the time to make it a pretty install. There's a lot of wires and hoses for this install. Take the time to make it pretty....it's worth it.
Butt Dyno 2000 reports about +25-30 hp. It's a great feeling! When your at 4500rpm and the accelleration is starting to plataue....whoosh!!! You get pushed against your seat again!!!!! Kind of like a nitrous power shot. No loss in the low-end....only high-end gains with this mod, Baby!!! And it has a cool resonance sound at about 5000-5500rpm.
THIS MOD IS DEFINATLEY WORTH EVERY PENNY, CUT, SCRAPE and BURN!!! I think the way it looks is almost worth it!
While agreed, yes, it DOES feel like that, I can't prove it until I Dyno.
Conservatively, I can say at least 15hp. Probably more. Quite possibly 25-30.
And yes, that freaked me out when the hose you laid got stuck under my throttle rocker. Heh. Especially in traffic.
IanS