OK, before Y & B pipe I was running mid to high 15s. After Y & B, I couldn't break out of 16s. Made three runs the other nite, 16.098, 16.409 & 16.450. What's up with that? Am I getting too much air flow? No back pressure? Help!!

RR

 

Did you change the muffler with a Bpipe? To a straight through one or anything?

SuDZ

 

Straight piping would only better times not worsen vs. pipe+resonator.

You either have a leak or bad o2 sensors...your car should be running very low 15's

 

have you reset your ECU.. have you changed anything else? how long have you had the parts on...

 

that doesnt sound right, who installed the parts? - wut size was the b pipe? sounds like somthing is leaking

 

I have the Stillen Y & B with a Toucan "coffee can" muffler. The 02 sensor was changed with the install and I had my mechanic install it. He said the pipes fit up perfectly when I went to pick my car up.

RR

 

I've had the parts on for about a month. Don't know about the ECU thing. Can you explain. Thanks.

RR

 

You have to reset the ECU under your dash by the gas pedal so it will relearn the new variables of the engine (also driving habits...)

BTW it is good habit to do this any time you make performance related modifications.

 

So just disconnecting the battery won't help like I've read in some other threads? Will print out the instructions and get hubby to help me. Honestly, I was ready to put the stock pipes back on and may still put the stock B back on just for the noise factor. I can't handle the loud noise. I'm going to put the stock muffler back on and if that doesn't help, you may see a B pipe for sale on the for sale forum soon.

After we reset the ECU how will I be able to tell the difference? Thanks for all your help, guys. You don't know how mad I was the other nite at the track. Thank goodness a couple of guys that I really wanted to race didn't show up.

RR

 

I don't think resetting the battery works all the time... I unhooked mine a while back, and when I started the car for the first time again, the check engine light (that was on before battery disconnect) was still on, and displaying the same codes...

 

Another thing is there is a "break in period" for the Ypipe. Give it some time like 500 miles to build up some after you reset the ECU to really get the full effect of the pipe.

SuDZ

 

In order to help you, I've gotta know some more numbers. Could be something as simple as changing your shift/launch rpms.
Same thing happened to me when I first got my Y... That was a while ago, but for a while I had the fastest auto 4th gen.

 

Before MPH 84.62, 85.10
After MPH 85.17, 82.51, & 84.10

all times launched at approx 2k RPM (I'm auto)

60 foot (before Y&B) 2.312 & 2.325
60 foot (after Y&B) 2.417, 2.423, & 2.593

I have to say, the best time I had (after Y&B) I went through the gears, just to see what would happen. That's when I got the 16.0 and I thought, to hell with that, I'll go back to just launching in Drive. Well, I did and that's when I got the two 16.4s!

Hope that helps.
RR

 

Something must be wrong, I'm running those times but I'm at 6000 feet in elevation...

 

try resetting the ecu. if that doesnt work. you may have a bad knock sensor. how does the car feel in day to day driving? how did it feel after you got the work done? any quicker? slower?

 

Sorry to hear about your times. It looks like you got a higher top speed w/ the new combo?? Did you get a lot of tire spin? Aside from that, much like everyone has stated - you need to reset the ecu. Here's a link w/ instructions, first check for any codes and then reset it. After it's been reset it will take a little while to "relearn" the operating parameters of the engine and how you drive. Hope this works for you - I have a y pipe somewhere in the mail and hope I benefit from it. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=104931

 

Yeah, I have read that, but thought it was only if you were getting the Check Engine Light. Do I use the same procedure even if I'm not getting the CEL?

The car runs fine during every day driving. It seems to me like it's quicker. At the track, I only got wheel spin on the last pass, which was my worst.


RR

 

You are running slower because of your horrid 60' times. To a point, trap speeds are unaffected by your launch, but if you spend EXCESSIVE amount of time spinning your tires, you are wasting time spinning when you should be accelerating. I am confident that if you turned identical 60' times as you had BEFORE the Y and B, your trap speeds would be at least 1.5 mph higher.

 

Yes, I would first do the code retirieval. Even though you don't have the CEL go ahead and try to retrieve codes. You should get the 05 05 code meaning everything is fine. Once you've gotten that code reset the ecu and you should be good. ALso, like Nealoc187 says, you could use some improvement in your 60' times. Good luck.

 

When had my max, with just a popcharger, I was running 15.4's. When I added my Stillen Y, I slowed down to a 15.6. I had higher trap speeds, but my e.t. was slower.
Your higher trap speed shows that you are making more HP, but as Neal said, your horrible 60' time is killing you. With the Y-pipe and B pipe, you may notice that you have a stronger top end, with a slight weakening of your bottom end. What I can do is offer you some advice, it worked for me, and a few others I've coached a while back.
1. Whenever possible, let your engine cool off before and between runs. Let it cool as much as possible with the hood open. I've found that auto 4th gens are much more affected by engine temp than their 5 spd brothers. My car would fluctuate ats much as .3-.4 with no other difference other than the engine temp.
2. Launch. 2k is too high to launch at. My experience's (and timeslips) show that the best launch comes at a mild 1000-1000 rpm launch, which will flash stall the convertor, and get you much better 60' times. How much better? With my Popcharger and stillen Y (and HKS muffler) I would routinely pull 2.21-2.28 60' times. When I changed to 16 inch wheels, I was pulling 2.18-2.20 on each run. My best 60' times were just before I stopped racing, and I was pulling 2.10-2.15.
Simply hold the rpm's steady at 1000-1100, and on the last yellow, stuff the throttle. You should launch with just a hit of wheelspin, and your 60' times should be in the high 2.2- low 2.3 range. Each .1 at the start can be worth up to .2 at the top end of the track.
3. Shifting. With an intake and Y, you would need to move the shifter at 5500 rpm. This will get you a full throttle upshift exactly at 6k. Keep in mind, that if your engine is hot, you won't be making any power at the big end of the track, and your et's will show it. I had about 100 runs on my 95 GXE, and it got to the point I could predict my et's based upon how hard the car pulled in 3rd gear.
Let the engine cool down between runs (so that the temp gauge is below its normal position) then pull into the staging lanes. By the time you get to the tree, it should just be reaching normal. Launch as I described, and you should see some definite improvements.

 

So you're saying I should not start off in Drive, but go through the gears? You guys have been great to help a novice girl out. I really need to get this figured out. There are a couple of smart *** guys dissing the "grocery getter" and I really need to shut them up!

Thanks jimbrowski. That's alot of good info. I will try your technique.

RR

 

Manually shifting from 1 thru D will get you the best et's. If left to shift on it's own, the auto tranny will tend to upshift at 5k (at least it did in my car) Manually shifting it decreased my et's significantly.