help - engine shakes at low rpm's
Saaame prob...
WoW, jut tap the top huh? I need to do that today, because I have a stutter/hesitaion type of deal when I accelerate, and a bouncy idle.
BTW, Nick, if you find it to be the MAFS and don't have the 500+ dollars to buy the part from nissan, try thepartsbin.com, they sell it for 200, but if you want to to try a used part, try car-part.com, I found one on ther for 35 dollars
BTW, Nick, if you find it to be the MAFS and don't have the 500+ dollars to buy the part from nissan, try thepartsbin.com, they sell it for 200, but if you want to to try a used part, try car-part.com, I found one on ther for 35 dollars

this is just an update, not able to find a my mechanic to check into the injector #5 yet but my wife told the engine line was flashing from her last use of the car today and the O/D light come on as O/D off. this light was steady on.
The car i now parked. I will check the codes again tomorrow just to make sure everything else did not go wrong. I am think this has to do with the Knock sensor as the code 0304 is present.
The car i now parked. I will check the codes again tomorrow just to make sure everything else did not go wrong. I am think this has to do with the Knock sensor as the code 0304 is present.
this is just an update, not able to find a my mechanic to check into the injector #5 yet but my wife told the engine line was flashing from her last use of the car today and the O/D light come on as O/D off. this light was steady on.
The car i now parked. I will check the codes again tomorrow just to make sure everything else did not go wrong. I am think this has to do with the Knock sensor as the code 0304 is present.
The car i now parked. I will check the codes again tomorrow just to make sure everything else did not go wrong. I am think this has to do with the Knock sensor as the code 0304 is present.
also what you think about this injectors for sale? it seems the guy has been selling parts from a wreck maxima and gotten positive feedback
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...ayphotohosting
Will the CEL flashing cause any issues?
also what you think about this injectors for sale? it seems the guy has been selling parts from a wreck maxima and gotten positive feedback
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...ayphotohosting
also what you think about this injectors for sale? it seems the guy has been selling parts from a wreck maxima and gotten positive feedback
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...ayphotohosting
It's a great price...if you don't include the shipping, that's more than the parts themselves.
But if you price it out it's about $10 per injector shipped, which isn't too bad.
Yes, the flashing CEL indicates a severe misfire. If it's dumping raw fuel, it could quickly and permanently damage the converter.
It's a great price...if you don't include the shipping, that's more than the parts themselves.
But if you price it out it's about $10 per injector shipped, which isn't too bad.
It's a great price...if you don't include the shipping, that's more than the parts themselves.
But if you price it out it's about $10 per injector shipped, which isn't too bad.
Update on my issue as well. everything seemed fine until last night. was driving and suddenly idle was insanely high (4k). turned car off. let sit for about 5 mins, turned back on, and CEL came back on. drove it home with no problems. today I turned it on, and it started dropping rpms in d and r and nearly stalling until warmed up. gonna change out all spark plugs and remove TB to clean inside and out as well as IACV. (getting gaskets from dealer). Also going to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner thru it. Hopefully that works. Oh, and Im'a clean the MAF. Any other things i should try?
Update on my issue as well. everything seemed fine until last night. was driving and suddenly idle was insanely high (4k). turned car off. let sit for about 5 mins, turned back on, and CEL came back on. drove it home with no problems. today I turned it on, and it started dropping rpms in d and r and nearly stalling until warmed up. gonna change out all spark plugs and remove TB to clean inside and out as well as IACV. (getting gaskets from dealer). Also going to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner thru it. Hopefully that works. Oh, and Im'a clean the MAF. Any other things i should try?
My 99 maxima is shaking on idle at about 500rmp. I have gotten steady and flashing ce and oil lights. I have all new coils and ngk plugs that I will put in as soon as the coils get delivered.. I guess if that doesnt work then the fuel injectors are next.
Ran the codes again. Only show the 0707 so still no misfiring. got the gaskets today to do the TB and IACV cleaning and putting in some NGK iridiums. (had platinum before and for like...ever) Hopefully that will do it. Cleaned out injectors to using one of those fuel system cleaner additives and some octane booster. (My brother's method of choice.) Will post results in a few days for bad or, hopefully, good.
I will preface this with: keep any sly or negative comments about this topic being posted before to yourselves. If you can help please do and thank you.
Just bought a 99 Max with a little over 75k miles on it. The problem is at low rpms (500 - 1000) and at idle the car shakes and shudders. It does not happen in park just when I am on the brake. I am aware that this could be a coil problem and have ordered 6 new ones and some NGK plugs. If this doesnt fix the issue I would assume its the fuel injectors. The strange thing is that my oil and check engine lights comes on once in a while at the same time. Also if I hit the gas hard they will both start to flash. I checked the code and it is a cylinder 1 misfire. I have heard other people have this problem but I have not heard anyone have both the oil and CE light flash. What would any of you do in this situation? Please advise. I heard that driving the car like this can damage the catalytic converter. Is this correct and is so, why?
Thanks
Just bought a 99 Max with a little over 75k miles on it. The problem is at low rpms (500 - 1000) and at idle the car shakes and shudders. It does not happen in park just when I am on the brake. I am aware that this could be a coil problem and have ordered 6 new ones and some NGK plugs. If this doesnt fix the issue I would assume its the fuel injectors. The strange thing is that my oil and check engine lights comes on once in a while at the same time. Also if I hit the gas hard they will both start to flash. I checked the code and it is a cylinder 1 misfire. I have heard other people have this problem but I have not heard anyone have both the oil and CE light flash. What would any of you do in this situation? Please advise. I heard that driving the car like this can damage the catalytic converter. Is this correct and is so, why?
Thanks
I will preface this with: keep any sly or negative comments about this topic being posted before to yourselves. If you can help please do and thank you.
Just bought a 99 Max with a little over 75k miles on it. The problem is at low rpms (500 - 1000) and at idle the car shakes and shudders. It does not happen in park just when I am on the brake. I am aware that this could be a coil problem and have ordered 6 new ones and some NGK plugs. If this doesnt fix the issue I would assume its the fuel injectors. The strange thing is that my oil and check engine lights comes on once in a while at the same time. Also if I hit the gas hard they will both start to flash. I checked the code and it is a cylinder 1 misfire. I have heard other people have this problem but I have not heard anyone have both the oil and CE light flash. What would any of you do in this situation? Please advise. I heard that driving the car like this can damage the catalytic converter. Is this correct and is so, why?
Thanks
Just bought a 99 Max with a little over 75k miles on it. The problem is at low rpms (500 - 1000) and at idle the car shakes and shudders. It does not happen in park just when I am on the brake. I am aware that this could be a coil problem and have ordered 6 new ones and some NGK plugs. If this doesnt fix the issue I would assume its the fuel injectors. The strange thing is that my oil and check engine lights comes on once in a while at the same time. Also if I hit the gas hard they will both start to flash. I checked the code and it is a cylinder 1 misfire. I have heard other people have this problem but I have not heard anyone have both the oil and CE light flash. What would any of you do in this situation? Please advise. I heard that driving the car like this can damage the catalytic converter. Is this correct and is so, why?
Thanks
I'm assuming you've checked oil level? Have you checked the harness connector to the OPSU?

Have you ohmed out the injectors?
First, THANK YOU for your response.
I recently bought this car maybe 3 weeks ago. When I drove it off the lot it studdered so I brought it back. The guy then changed the plugs and said it had sat for a while so to put premium gas in the tank. I figured he put some cheap plugs in there. Drove it off the econd time and same thing so I brought it back and he got the fuel injectors cleaned. Drove it off third time and it ran fine for a day then same thing. I got an oil change and put some additive in the oil. I never noticed a leak or any oil anywhere so I assumed the oil level was fine. I will check when I get off work. I will check the harness connector as well. I just want to know what the plan of attack should be as I want to get this car 100%. Thanks for the pic by the way. Just to confirm, cylinder 1 is the first one on the left... correct?...
Thanks again.
I recently bought this car maybe 3 weeks ago. When I drove it off the lot it studdered so I brought it back. The guy then changed the plugs and said it had sat for a while so to put premium gas in the tank. I figured he put some cheap plugs in there. Drove it off the econd time and same thing so I brought it back and he got the fuel injectors cleaned. Drove it off third time and it ran fine for a day then same thing. I got an oil change and put some additive in the oil. I never noticed a leak or any oil anywhere so I assumed the oil level was fine. I will check when I get off work. I will check the harness connector as well. I just want to know what the plan of attack should be as I want to get this car 100%. Thanks for the pic by the way. Just to confirm, cylinder 1 is the first one on the left... correct?...
Thanks again.
First, THANK YOU for your response.
I recently bought this car maybe 3 weeks ago. When I drove it off the lot it studdered so I brought it back. The guy then changed the plugs and said it had sat for a while so to put premium gas in the tank. I figured he put some cheap plugs in there. Drove it off the econd time and same thing so I brought it back and he got the fuel injectors cleaned. Drove it off third time and it ran fine for a day then same thing. I got an oil change and put some additive in the oil. I never noticed a leak or any oil anywhere so I assumed the oil level was fine. I will check when I get off work. I will check the harness connector as well. I just want to know what the plan of attack should be as I want to get this car 100%. Thanks for the pic by the way. Just to confirm, cylinder 1 is the first one on the left... correct?...
Thanks again.
I recently bought this car maybe 3 weeks ago. When I drove it off the lot it studdered so I brought it back. The guy then changed the plugs and said it had sat for a while so to put premium gas in the tank. I figured he put some cheap plugs in there. Drove it off the econd time and same thing so I brought it back and he got the fuel injectors cleaned. Drove it off third time and it ran fine for a day then same thing. I got an oil change and put some additive in the oil. I never noticed a leak or any oil anywhere so I assumed the oil level was fine. I will check when I get off work. I will check the harness connector as well. I just want to know what the plan of attack should be as I want to get this car 100%. Thanks for the pic by the way. Just to confirm, cylinder 1 is the first one on the left... correct?...
Thanks again.
Forgive my lack of knowledge. You say it is far right but the picture shows rear left. I am alittle confused. If I am facing the front of the car how does this diagram relate to how the engine is positioned. Based on the picture and where it is saying front is I would never think that it would be rear right. Thanks in advance.
Forgive my lack of knowledge. You say it is far right but the picture shows rear left. I am alittle confused. If I am facing the front of the car how does this diagram relate to how the engine is positioned. Based on the picture and where it is saying front is I would never think that it would be rear right. Thanks in advance.
The front points towards the front of the engine, where the belts are.
Our 95 Maxima had similar symptoms and sure enough it turned out to be a bad injector...classic misfire puff, puff, puff at tailpipe, etc. Of course it couldn't have been one of the three EASY to get to injectors, no had to be one of the ones under the intake. Because the car was so old already I went ahead and replaced all three back there just because I didn't want to remove the manifold twice if the others were near failure (note: only the one injector failed the simple ohm test in my Haynes manual). It isn't a horrible job, but you do need to get the gaskets ahead of time in case you have trouble locating them. I tossed the other two old (but still good) injectors on the shelf in case one of the front three dies - I'll just toss one of these on. During my triaging I replaced a coil as it seemed to make a slight difference on one of the cylinders, but that was really a false lead.
Update: CEL came back on still rear heated o2 sensor. since I don't have the $$ for a new one, my brother suggested doing a resistor mod to it. I searched and couldn't find a how to or even what resistor to use. anyone ever done this? Feel free to flame my newbieness
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Update: CEL came back on still rear heated o2 sensor. since I don't have the $$ for a new one, my brother suggested doing a resistor mod to it. I searched and couldn't find a how to or even what resistor to use. anyone ever done this? Feel free to flame my newbieness
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!Anyway, search 'O2 sim'.
Oh yay. got rid of the other codes. rear heated o2 is gone...2 days ago cel popped up again. ran the code..0505 which is no problem found...cleared it...today popped up again, checked again and got 0503 which is front right heated o2 sensor. Seriously this is going to cause my brain to explode. My bro checked the sensor/harness for it and both are good. though we initially thought rear was bad but thats gone away (i think in part to spraying a can of TB cleaner into the plenum) Is it a common thing with 4th gens for the damned o2 sensors to freak out like this? also, currently running 10/40, why i don't know, but could that be causing/contributing? Should I change the oil to 5/30? or 10/30 since its got 192k on it? current oil been in there maybe 1k miles... As usual, feel free to flame me, just make sure to hide some help in the flame
Thanks
Thanks
I have the same problem... I changed out..KS, Injectors, Coils, and Plugs.. and still no difference.. =( Its a cyl.5 misfire. I think the cyl is completely dead as the plug is not red or hot after running the car for a few minutes. ANy ideas??? please!!
Basically, done any diagnostics other than throwing parts at it?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




