Rode in a boosted Max today...
#42
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Originally posted by iansw
I didn't, it fit perfectly...but I did use gasket seal on it to make sure no air gets out whatsoever.
IanS
I didn't, it fit perfectly...but I did use gasket seal on it to make sure no air gets out whatsoever.
IanS
#43
Originally posted by JAY25
I am trying to help you out here and thinking for you, If you have the V1 with 3.25 your boost will be 9PSI 9.5PSI, and your mechanically inclined, and you checked all the tubing etc..your BOV is not leaking air is it?
I am trying to help you out here and thinking for you, If you have the V1 with 3.25 your boost will be 9PSI 9.5PSI, and your mechanically inclined, and you checked all the tubing etc..your BOV is not leaking air is it?
Of course, there's a bolt on top of the BOV, and another one that the vacuum plugs into. Which one do I adjust?
IanS
#44
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Originally posted by iansw
I tightened that sucker as far as I could...no luck.
Of course, there's a bolt on top of the BOV, and another one that the vacuum plugs into. Which one do I adjust?
IanS
I tightened that sucker as far as I could...no luck.
Of course, there's a bolt on top of the BOV, and another one that the vacuum plugs into. Which one do I adjust?
IanS
#45
Originally posted by JAY25
I take that comment back leave the BOV alone if he was hitting 9PSI with it, make worsen the problem.
I take that comment back leave the BOV alone if he was hitting 9PSI with it, make worsen the problem.
i think he's out right now, because he's not answering my E-Mails the last couple days.
IanS
#46
Deos more FP add more boost is my main question right now....
I noticed looking at the FP guage that the FP doesn't kick in when it hsould, and on this FMU, that is adjustable (Cartech).
I also got a "lean" reading on my ECU today after doing a diagnostics (my CEL did not come on, I was just testing everything). It said I was running lean (code 0210) (Fuel INJ sys left bank:lean). i reset the ECU, drove about 40 miles, and checked again.
I then got 0505 - All systems good.
I'm sure the lean code happened from when I was on the Dyno, and went somewhat lean, but I doubt that affects boost in the negative, but I'm not sure, because I don't know alot about FP's effects on boost.
IanS
I noticed looking at the FP guage that the FP doesn't kick in when it hsould, and on this FMU, that is adjustable (Cartech).
I also got a "lean" reading on my ECU today after doing a diagnostics (my CEL did not come on, I was just testing everything). It said I was running lean (code 0210) (Fuel INJ sys left bank:lean). i reset the ECU, drove about 40 miles, and checked again.
I then got 0505 - All systems good.
I'm sure the lean code happened from when I was on the Dyno, and went somewhat lean, but I doubt that affects boost in the negative, but I'm not sure, because I don't know alot about FP's effects on boost.
IanS
#47
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Originally posted by iansw
Well, ys, but he adjusted the FMU for safety, so he may have adjusted the BOV for the same reasons.
i think he's out right now, because he's not answering my E-Mails the last couple days.
IanS
Well, ys, but he adjusted the FMU for safety, so he may have adjusted the BOV for the same reasons.
i think he's out right now, because he's not answering my E-Mails the last couple days.
IanS
#48
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Fuel pressure increases as boost increases, at 6PSI I was getting 60PSI FP, at 10 I was getting 100PSI, I ghetto rigged a FP and taped it to my window. but my FP normally is 40PSI no boost, Mardigrasmax set my FMU to be on 24/7.
#49
Originally posted by JAY25
Fuel pressure increases as boost increases, at 6PSI I was getting 60PSI FP, at 10 I was getting 100PSI, I ghetto rigged a FP and taped it to my window. but my FP normally is 40PSI no boost, Mardigrasmax set my FMU to be on 24/7.
Fuel pressure increases as boost increases, at 6PSI I was getting 60PSI FP, at 10 I was getting 100PSI, I ghetto rigged a FP and taped it to my window. but my FP normally is 40PSI no boost, Mardigrasmax set my FMU to be on 24/7.
IanS
#50
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Originally posted by iansw
That's what I'm asking. Does boost affect FP, or does FP affect boost?
IanS
That's what I'm asking. Does boost affect FP, or does FP affect boost?
IanS
#51
Originally posted by JAY25
I cant answer that question but yes boost affects Fuel pressure causing it to go up, that is what the FMU disk is for and if I am wrong someone that sees this correct me, I am only trying to help you but not trying to misinform you.
I cant answer that question but yes boost affects Fuel pressure causing it to go up, that is what the FMU disk is for and if I am wrong someone that sees this correct me, I am only trying to help you but not trying to misinform you.
Where's MardisGras and Loren when you need them?
#52
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Originally posted by JAY25
I cant answer that question but yes boost affects Fuel pressure causing it to go up, that is what the FMU disk is for and if I am wrong someone that sees this correct me, I am only trying to help you but not trying to misinform you.
I cant answer that question but yes boost affects Fuel pressure causing it to go up, that is what the FMU disk is for and if I am wrong someone that sees this correct me, I am only trying to help you but not trying to misinform you.
#53
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Originally posted by iansw
Yes, that makes sense, but if your FMU is adjustable like mine, and the onset bleeder is set wrong, will you get less boost?
Where's MardisGras and Loren when you need them?
Yes, that makes sense, but if your FMU is adjustable like mine, and the onset bleeder is set wrong, will you get less boost?
Where's MardisGras and Loren when you need them?
The vortech FMU is adjustable via the FMU discs, now as far as your cartech FMU that one I dont know about but send Mardigrasmax a PM tomorrow hes asleep is 12AM already I have to go crash now, but I hope what little information helps you out, but in the future months I may purchase a ME VI from you if you still sell them.
#55
Well, I just went outside and tried every setting I could think of, jumping on the freeway and measuring boost each time.
I don't get it.
I set the hex adjustment on the BOV all the way down, Set the Fuel pressure **** on the FMU prety far clockwise (richer), and set the bleeder to all the way counter clockwise. (If I'm right, the bleeder makes the Fuel pressure start rising faster if all the way open)
I hit 70 with my Fuel Pressure (I've been getting about 50 at idle, 60 at redline), and still...6lbs of boost max.
Then I tried every setting, exactly the opposite......less Fuel Pressure (about 60 at redline).........6PSI
No matter what I change, I get 6PSI. All the way open or closed on the BOV, all the way open or closed on the FMU.
I'll just tell MardisgrasMax to read this thread.
IanS
I don't get it.
I set the hex adjustment on the BOV all the way down, Set the Fuel pressure **** on the FMU prety far clockwise (richer), and set the bleeder to all the way counter clockwise. (If I'm right, the bleeder makes the Fuel pressure start rising faster if all the way open)
I hit 70 with my Fuel Pressure (I've been getting about 50 at idle, 60 at redline), and still...6lbs of boost max.
Then I tried every setting, exactly the opposite......less Fuel Pressure (about 60 at redline).........6PSI
No matter what I change, I get 6PSI. All the way open or closed on the BOV, all the way open or closed on the FMU.
I'll just tell MardisgrasMax to read this thread.
IanS
#56
The FMU (Cartech in this case) increase FP as boost increases... the adjustment will vary your A/F ratio... don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing.
Question on your Blitz... is it the old style or new style?
On the newer one... there is a stud with 10mm nut on it on top of the BOV. If you loosen the 10mm nut you can adjust the stud (BOV) with an allen key. Clockwise will tighten it down. I can't help you with the older style, though.
At idle... the BOV is SUPPOSE to be blowing out air (at least on our S/C cars). Vortech also said that it should be blowing out air during no load situations (e.g. relaxed highway cruising speed... not at 100mph, though!).
Question on your Blitz... is it the old style or new style?
On the newer one... there is a stud with 10mm nut on it on top of the BOV. If you loosen the 10mm nut you can adjust the stud (BOV) with an allen key. Clockwise will tighten it down. I can't help you with the older style, though.
At idle... the BOV is SUPPOSE to be blowing out air (at least on our S/C cars). Vortech also said that it should be blowing out air during no load situations (e.g. relaxed highway cruising speed... not at 100mph, though!).
#57
Originally posted by Chunger
The FMU (Cartech in this case) increase FP as boost increases... the adjustment will vary your A/F ratio... don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing.
Question on your Blitz... is it the old style or new style?
On the newer one... there is a stud with 10mm nut on it on top of the BOV. If you loosen the 10mm nut you can adjust the stud (BOV) with an allen key. Clockwise will tighten it down. I can't help you with the older style, though.
At idle... the BOV is SUPPOSE to be blowing out air (at least on our S/C cars). Vortech also said that it should be blowing out air during no load situations (e.g. relaxed highway cruising speed... not at 100mph, though!).
The FMU (Cartech in this case) increase FP as boost increases... the adjustment will vary your A/F ratio... don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing.
Question on your Blitz... is it the old style or new style?
On the newer one... there is a stud with 10mm nut on it on top of the BOV. If you loosen the 10mm nut you can adjust the stud (BOV) with an allen key. Clockwise will tighten it down. I can't help you with the older style, though.
At idle... the BOV is SUPPOSE to be blowing out air (at least on our S/C cars). Vortech also said that it should be blowing out air during no load situations (e.g. relaxed highway cruising speed... not at 100mph, though!).
I'm assuming the hex is the adjustment. I tried both all the way open and all the way closed. It seemed to release alot more air when open, but in both cases, nothing came out at idle.
I also tried right in the middle, and still..........6 PSI.
Once again, can a belt being too tight cause you to lose boost?
#58
Originally posted by iansw
...
Once again, can a belt being too tight cause you to lose boost?
...
Once again, can a belt being too tight cause you to lose boost?
Heres a picture of the newer style:
#61
Originally posted by sx7r
i rode shotgun in a corolla today. it was fast.
i rode shotgun in a corolla today. it was fast.
Those are almost as fast as Mr. T's van foo!
I would note that I rode in Turbo95Max's car, but then Chestobo would at me cause he actually drove it while I followed in my non-boosted max.
#62
When people say 90 degrees on the belt, do they mean 1/4 af the way around or 1/2?
Call me stupid, but the guy at the shop told me that it was too tight, but i can twist it 1/2 way around (almost) from below the car.
Thanks,
IanS
Call me stupid, but the guy at the shop told me that it was too tight, but i can twist it 1/2 way around (almost) from below the car.
Thanks,
IanS
#63
Originally posted by iansw
When people say 90 degrees on the belt, do they mean 1/4 af the way around or 1/2?
Call me stupid, but the guy at the shop told me that it was too tight, but i can twist it 1/2 way around (almost) from below the car.
Thanks,
IanS
When people say 90 degrees on the belt, do they mean 1/4 af the way around or 1/2?
Call me stupid, but the guy at the shop told me that it was too tight, but i can twist it 1/2 way around (almost) from below the car.
Thanks,
IanS
90 degrees - right angle, 1/4 turn of a full clock.
#64
Re: Re: Rode in a boosted Max today...
Originally posted by Craig Mack
You think a boosted maxima is fast, try riding shotgun in a Camaro SS 6-speed
You think a boosted maxima is fast, try riding shotgun in a Camaro SS 6-speed
#65
Nevermind...I'm smoking crack...it's set at exactly 1/4 clock turn (90 degrees) right now.
The only thing left is that I may have a broken seal at the EGR from the MEVI Install. I can't get my hand down there to check for leaks, so I'm gong to try a stethoscope.
IanS
The only thing left is that I may have a broken seal at the EGR from the MEVI Install. I can't get my hand down there to check for leaks, so I'm gong to try a stethoscope.
IanS
#66
Well, pretty crappy day.
My idler pulley (the car's, not the S/C's) fell off while driving today. It happened right at a shift point, so I didn't notice the THUNK when i heard it right away, then looked down at the guage cluster and noticed the Battery light was on. Only 2 things do that...bad alternator and no belt.
I pop the hood...and the pulley is missing, the belt hanging around the SC.
I walked up and down the road I was on maybe 5 times, and only found the lower washer. Couldn't find the pulley anywhere.
Nissan says it's $73+$13 for new washers. The nearest one is in Idaho and they have to ship it in. I'm going to check Feltons (the local Nissan Junkyard) tomorrow.
In other news, I think I figured out my boost problem. Too much oil in the SC because the oil drainback is somewhat kinked.
Would that do it?
IanS
My idler pulley (the car's, not the S/C's) fell off while driving today. It happened right at a shift point, so I didn't notice the THUNK when i heard it right away, then looked down at the guage cluster and noticed the Battery light was on. Only 2 things do that...bad alternator and no belt.
I pop the hood...and the pulley is missing, the belt hanging around the SC.
I walked up and down the road I was on maybe 5 times, and only found the lower washer. Couldn't find the pulley anywhere.
Nissan says it's $73+$13 for new washers. The nearest one is in Idaho and they have to ship it in. I'm going to check Feltons (the local Nissan Junkyard) tomorrow.
In other news, I think I figured out my boost problem. Too much oil in the SC because the oil drainback is somewhat kinked.
Would that do it?
IanS
#69
I just went down to the garage and took the pipe off right at the blower, which is the lowest point in the piping (oil/water would settle there).
Bone Dry.
I think it's just tranny fluid that I spilled onto the MAF when I was filling the tranny back up. Although it has no smell, and Redline ATF smells NASTY.
Anyway, it seems that's not a problem.
But maybe that kink in the drainback hose is causing problems....
I'll find out when I get my new pulley on and have a chance to shorten the hose to fit.
IanS
Bone Dry.
I think it's just tranny fluid that I spilled onto the MAF when I was filling the tranny back up. Although it has no smell, and Redline ATF smells NASTY.
Anyway, it seems that's not a problem.
But maybe that kink in the drainback hose is causing problems....
I'll find out when I get my new pulley on and have a chance to shorten the hose to fit.
IanS
#70
Ian,the edges of the grooves where the belt rides on the 3.25" pulley, what do they look like? Is the black anodizing still on their or are they polished and shiney? If they are polished and shiney the belt is slipping. Since that is a new belt you have on their I would recomend you take the time to be sure the other pullies it touches are clean and free of oil and gook that may cause it to slip.
As far as oil drain back goes it would have to be a real extreme kink IMHO to cause the loss of 3psi, but its ya never know.
As far as oil drain back goes it would have to be a real extreme kink IMHO to cause the loss of 3psi, but its ya never know.
#71
Well, it's either a leak at my MAF or the kink in the oil drainback.
I was thinking maybe the reason I can't detech the leak at the MAF while hitting the gas is because you don't start boosting unless you are actually moving. And maybe the air is escapaing only at boost.
What do you think of that?
Also, a new idler pulley from a junkyard (Feltons) is $100+30 for washers/hardware. From Nissan, it's $73+13!
I chose the third route, called Infiniti, and they had the pulley for an I30 (looked at ebmorgan's car, it's the same) for $63.00 TOTAL.
IanS
I was thinking maybe the reason I can't detech the leak at the MAF while hitting the gas is because you don't start boosting unless you are actually moving. And maybe the air is escapaing only at boost.
What do you think of that?
Also, a new idler pulley from a junkyard (Feltons) is $100+30 for washers/hardware. From Nissan, it's $73+13!
I chose the third route, called Infiniti, and they had the pulley for an I30 (looked at ebmorgan's car, it's the same) for $63.00 TOTAL.
IanS
#72
Originally posted by iansw
I was thinking maybe the reason I can't detech the leak at the MAF while hitting the gas is because you don't start boosting unless you are actually moving. And maybe the air is escapaing only at boost.
What do you think of that?
I was thinking maybe the reason I can't detech the leak at the MAF while hitting the gas is because you don't start boosting unless you are actually moving. And maybe the air is escapaing only at boost.
What do you think of that?
You'll get it fixed dont worry, just keep going!!!
#73
Well, I put form-a-gasket all around the outside of the gasket on the MAF today, and sealed it back up, torquing the bolts to 8lbs, and letting the engine run at idle and get hot for about 1/2 hour to dry the gasket seal out.
I then re-tightened every clamp on the pipe, and removed and reattached (and re-zip tied) every vacuum hose.
No improvement...still 6PSI, exactly.
So I'm down to either it's the blower or my engine. Like I said, my engine sounds good, and when I pull codes I get 0505, so I'm pretty sure my engine is fine.
So that only leaves the blower, and I find it impossible to believe Loren would ever sell a bad blower to anyone.
The blower makes a metal on metal grinding sound at idle. It's barely audible over the SC wine, and I don't know if that's normal.
Heres some vids: www.cyberhub.net/shared
So I'm just giving up. I've got 267hp with the MEVI, and that will just have to do. I was psyched about breaking the 300hp mark, or at least getting close, but it looks like it'll never happen.
I then re-tightened every clamp on the pipe, and removed and reattached (and re-zip tied) every vacuum hose.
No improvement...still 6PSI, exactly.
So I'm down to either it's the blower or my engine. Like I said, my engine sounds good, and when I pull codes I get 0505, so I'm pretty sure my engine is fine.
So that only leaves the blower, and I find it impossible to believe Loren would ever sell a bad blower to anyone.
The blower makes a metal on metal grinding sound at idle. It's barely audible over the SC wine, and I don't know if that's normal.
Heres some vids: www.cyberhub.net/shared
So I'm just giving up. I've got 267hp with the MEVI, and that will just have to do. I was psyched about breaking the 300hp mark, or at least getting close, but it looks like it'll never happen.
#75
I've been thinking:
Vacuum is caused by the engine running with the TB plate closed, correct? The engine sucks air in, but since the TB Plate is closed, it creates a vacuum.
So if my vacuum is good, but PSI is low, then most likely, the problem is somewhere before or after the manifold and engine. That means it's either somewhere in the intake, blower, crossover pipe, or exhaust/EGR.
That sound about right?
Vacuum is caused by the engine running with the TB plate closed, correct? The engine sucks air in, but since the TB Plate is closed, it creates a vacuum.
So if my vacuum is good, but PSI is low, then most likely, the problem is somewhere before or after the manifold and engine. That means it's either somewhere in the intake, blower, crossover pipe, or exhaust/EGR.
That sound about right?
#76
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Sounds about right, but now ya gotta find it...
Originally posted by iansw
I've been thinking:
Vacuum is caused by the engine running with the TB plate closed, correct? The engine sucks air in, but since the TB Plate is closed, it creates a vacuum.
So if my vacuum is good, but PSI is low, then most likely, the problem is somewhere before or after the manifold and engine. That means it's either somewhere in the intake, blower, crossover pipe, or exhaust/EGR.
That sound about right?
I've been thinking:
Vacuum is caused by the engine running with the TB plate closed, correct? The engine sucks air in, but since the TB Plate is closed, it creates a vacuum.
So if my vacuum is good, but PSI is low, then most likely, the problem is somewhere before or after the manifold and engine. That means it's either somewhere in the intake, blower, crossover pipe, or exhaust/EGR.
That sound about right?
#77
Anyone else want to confirm that? (not that I don't belive you, mtrai760)
Also, there is a kink in the oil return line, but it's only a half-kink. there is still a decent amount of space for oil to get through.
Is that line running pressure? Or is oil just dripping down it?
Could it be that there is a good amount of pressure through there and the kink is causing backpressure, leaving too much oil in the blower, and causing it to be slowed down by the oil?
Thanks,
IanS
Also, there is a kink in the oil return line, but it's only a half-kink. there is still a decent amount of space for oil to get through.
Is that line running pressure? Or is oil just dripping down it?
Could it be that there is a good amount of pressure through there and the kink is causing backpressure, leaving too much oil in the blower, and causing it to be slowed down by the oil?
Thanks,
IanS
#78
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The whole system is normally in a state of Vacuum, regardless if the throttle plate is opened or closed, because the engine is always sucking in air... The S/C has to overcome the amount of air going in and then provide the extra air to create boost... Engines consume crazy amounts of air to fuel, something like 40k gallons of air for every 1 gallon of fuel consumed...
#79
Originally posted by mtrai760
The whole system is normally in a state of Vacuum, regardless if the throttle plate is opened or closed, because the engine is always sucking in air... The S/C has to overcome the amount of air going in and then provide the extra air to create boost... Engines consume crazy amounts of air to fuel, something like 40k gallons of air for every 1 gallon of fuel consumed...
The whole system is normally in a state of Vacuum, regardless if the throttle plate is opened or closed, because the engine is always sucking in air... The S/C has to overcome the amount of air going in and then provide the extra air to create boost... Engines consume crazy amounts of air to fuel, something like 40k gallons of air for every 1 gallon of fuel consumed...
Well, I keep saying I'll give up, but it's all I can think about. I keep in front of my computer waiting for someone to post with the answer or point me in the right direction.
I think this is best left to experts. I'm taking her to garage SPL after work tomorrow. We'll see what happens then. If that doesn't work out, I have an appointment with Greg's Japanese Auto the next day to do a full compression test on my engine and see if they can locate the problem.
IanS
#80
This 6psi seems right just look at other autos out there they just don't make the boost 5spds do, and the auto surely makes your hp numbers look lower just look at your ~145hp baseline.... weak. I have also heard that the V-2s make better boost and that is what Y2kev is running with a 2.87" only making 11psi. I am just saying I don't think you have a problem other than you being an auto and a V-1.