iansw

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, this was Loren's SC....I know for a fact he knows his **** and takes care of it.

He got 9 PSI before he took it off his car 3 weeks ago, as far as I know.

IanS

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I am trying to help you out here and thinking for you, If you have the V1 with 3.25 your boost will be 9PSI 9.5PSI, and your mechanically inclined, and you checked all the tubing etc..your BOV is not leaking air is it?

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I tightened that sucker as far as I could...no luck.

Of course, there's a bolt on top of the BOV, and another one that the vacuum plugs into. Which one do I adjust?

IanS

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I take that comment back leave the BOV alone if he was hitting 9PSI with it, make worsen the problem.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, ys, but he adjusted the FMU for safety, so he may have adjusted the BOV for the same reasons.

i think he's out right now, because he's not answering my E-Mails the last couple days.

IanS

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Deos more FP add more boost is my main question right now....

I noticed looking at the FP guage that the FP doesn't kick in when it hsould, and on this FMU, that is adjustable (Cartech).

I also got a "lean" reading on my ECU today after doing a diagnostics (my CEL did not come on, I was just testing everything). It said I was running lean (code 0210) (Fuel INJ sys left bank:lean). i reset the ECU, drove about 40 miles, and checked again.

I then got 0505 - All systems good.

I'm sure the lean code happened from when I was on the Dyno, and went somewhat lean, but I doubt that affects boost in the negative, but I'm not sure, because I don't know alot about FP's effects on boost.

IanS

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

so he did adjust the BOV then prior to selling to you, ask him which nut or bolt did he mess with and see if that solves your problem. See my Ypipe was damaged and my BOV was blowing alot of air when you pop the hood you could feel the air but I was still getting 10PSI, I am under the assumption that since the Ypipe was restricting air flow the BOV was releasing it, so the BOV is very important. I wish I was there to take a closer look. Take a break and relax dont stress yourself out, for now when you least expect it you will find the problem. All this takes a bit of time.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Fuel pressure increases as boost increases, at 6PSI I was getting 60PSI FP, at 10 I was getting 100PSI, I ghetto rigged a FP and taped it to my window. but my FP normally is 40PSI no boost, Mardigrasmax set my FMU to be on 24/7.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

That's what I'm asking. Does boost affect FP, or does FP affect boost?

IanS

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I cant answer that question but yes boost affects Fuel pressure causing it to go up, that is what the FMU disk is for and if I am wrong someone that sees this correct me, I am only trying to help you but not trying to misinform you.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Yes, that makes sense, but if your FMU is adjustable like mine, and the onset bleeder is set wrong, will you get less boost?

Where's MardisGras and Loren when you need them?

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

Yes I was right boost affects fuel pressure, the disc in the FMU is being pressed down causing your Fuel pressure to rise. I was right sorry about that I am just half way asleep.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

The vortech FMU is adjustable via the FMU discs, now as far as your cartech FMU that one I dont know about but send Mardigrasmax a PM tomorrow hes asleep is 12AM already I have to go crash now, but I hope what little information helps you out, but in the future months I may purchase a ME VI from you if you still sell them.

DaddyMac

sure it is fast in a straight line, but it's still a domestic POS !!

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, I just went outside and tried every setting I could think of, jumping on the freeway and measuring boost each time.

I don't get it.

I set the hex adjustment on the BOV all the way down, Set the Fuel pressure **** on the FMU prety far clockwise (richer), and set the bleeder to all the way counter clockwise. (If I'm right, the bleeder makes the Fuel pressure start rising faster if all the way open)

I hit 70 with my Fuel Pressure (I've been getting about 50 at idle, 60 at redline), and still...6lbs of boost max.

Then I tried every setting, exactly the opposite......less Fuel Pressure (about 60 at redline).........6PSI

No matter what I change, I get 6PSI. All the way open or closed on the BOV, all the way open or closed on the FMU.

I'll just tell MardisgrasMax to read this thread.

IanS

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

The FMU (Cartech in this case) increase FP as boost increases... the adjustment will vary your A/F ratio... don't mess with it unless you know what you're doing.

Question on your Blitz... is it the old style or new style?
On the newer one... there is a stud with 10mm nut on it on top of the BOV. If you loosen the 10mm nut you can adjust the stud (BOV) with an allen key. Clockwise will tighten it down. I can't help you with the older style, though.

At idle... the BOV is SUPPOSE to be blowing out air (at least on our S/C cars). Vortech also said that it should be blowing out air during no load situations (e.g. relaxed highway cruising speed... not at 100mph, though!).

iansw

iTrader: (7)

i can take a picture of the BOV if you wish, but it has 2 things on top of it: A vacuum hose coming out of it on top of a nut. And a bolt with a hex end on it, but no nut on that bolt.

I'm assuming the hex is the adjustment. I tried both all the way open and all the way closed. It seemed to release alot more air when open, but in both cases, nothing came out at idle.

I also tried right in the middle, and still..........6 PSI.

Once again, can a belt being too tight cause you to lose boost?

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

No... but it may ruin your bearings on all the items the use the belt... only tighten it much as needed (90 degree deflection test).

Heres a picture of the newer style:

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Nope, mine must be the older one....

the SC is VERY loud...like 70db. Is this normal with the V1?

sx7r

iTrader: (15)

i rode shotgun in a corolla today. it was fast.

hakk97se

Those are almost as fast as Mr. T's van foo!

I would note that I rode in Turbo95Max's car, but then Chestobo would at me cause he actually drove it while I followed in my non-boosted max.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

When people say 90 degrees on the belt, do they mean 1/4 af the way around or 1/2?

Call me stupid, but the guy at the shop told me that it was too tight, but i can twist it 1/2 way around (almost) from below the car.

Thanks,
IanS

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

1/2 way? too loose if that's the case...

90 degrees - right angle, 1/4 turn of a full clock.

MAX2000JP

Id take a boosted Max also. If I was to get a car like a Camaro SS, I would go all out and get the Z06. Some of my friends refer to a Camaro SS as "A trailer park Ferrari". I dont mind them, what they do best is straight line performance.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Nevermind...I'm smoking crack...it's set at exactly 1/4 clock turn (90 degrees) right now.

The only thing left is that I may have a broken seal at the EGR from the MEVI Install. I can't get my hand down there to check for leaks, so I'm gong to try a stethoscope.

IanS

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, pretty crappy day.

My idler pulley (the car's, not the S/C's) fell off while driving today. It happened right at a shift point, so I didn't notice the THUNK when i heard it right away, then looked down at the guage cluster and noticed the Battery light was on. Only 2 things do that...bad alternator and no belt.

I pop the hood...and the pulley is missing, the belt hanging around the SC.

I walked up and down the road I was on maybe 5 times, and only found the lower washer. Couldn't find the pulley anywhere.

Nissan says it's $73+$13 for new washers. The nearest one is in Idaho and they have to ship it in. I'm going to check Feltons (the local Nissan Junkyard) tomorrow.

In other news, I think I figured out my boost problem. Too much oil in the SC because the oil drainback is somewhat kinked.

Would that do it?

IanS

Confused

iTrader: (4)

idler pulley for a 96 was $56 shipped from Courtesy. it came as one whole unit.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I'll try calling them if I can't find it at the junkyard tomorrow.

IanS

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I just went down to the garage and took the pipe off right at the blower, which is the lowest point in the piping (oil/water would settle there).

Bone Dry.

I think it's just tranny fluid that I spilled onto the MAF when I was filling the tranny back up. Although it has no smell, and Redline ATF smells NASTY.

Anyway, it seems that's not a problem.

But maybe that kink in the drainback hose is causing problems....

I'll find out when I get my new pulley on and have a chance to shorten the hose to fit.

IanS

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Ian,the edges of the grooves where the belt rides on the 3.25" pulley, what do they look like? Is the black anodizing still on their or are they polished and shiney? If they are polished and shiney the belt is slipping. Since that is a new belt you have on their I would recomend you take the time to be sure the other pullies it touches are clean and free of oil and gook that may cause it to slip.

As far as oil drain back goes it would have to be a real extreme kink IMHO to cause the loss of 3psi, but its ya never know.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, it's either a leak at my MAF or the kink in the oil drainback.

I was thinking maybe the reason I can't detech the leak at the MAF while hitting the gas is because you don't start boosting unless you are actually moving. And maybe the air is escapaing only at boost.

What do you think of that?

Also, a new idler pulley from a junkyard (Feltons) is $100+30 for washers/hardware. From Nissan, it's $73+13!

I chose the third route, called Infiniti, and they had the pulley for an I30 (looked at ebmorgan's car, it's the same) for $63.00 TOTAL.

IanS

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Yup, if it will hold 6psi at redline. you wont feel it at idle. Best to just tear it down and goop it up to rule it out.

You'll get it fixed dont worry, just keep going!!!

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Well, I put form-a-gasket all around the outside of the gasket on the MAF today, and sealed it back up, torquing the bolts to 8lbs, and letting the engine run at idle and get hot for about 1/2 hour to dry the gasket seal out.

I then re-tightened every clamp on the pipe, and removed and reattached (and re-zip tied) every vacuum hose.

No improvement...still 6PSI, exactly.

So I'm down to either it's the blower or my engine. Like I said, my engine sounds good, and when I pull codes I get 0505, so I'm pretty sure my engine is fine.

So that only leaves the blower, and I find it impossible to believe Loren would ever sell a bad blower to anyone.

The blower makes a metal on metal grinding sound at idle. It's barely audible over the SC wine, and I don't know if that's normal.

Heres some vids: www.cyberhub.net/shared


So I'm just giving up. I've got 267hp with the MEVI, and that will just have to do. I was psyched about breaking the 300hp mark, or at least getting close, but it looks like it'll never happen.

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Bummer, but be happy with what ya got!

Hey you said somthing about the EGR port gasket a while ago, did you check that?

I still think that sealing up the lower intake gasket is worth a shot.

iansw

iTrader: (7)

I've been thinking:

Vacuum is caused by the engine running with the TB plate closed, correct? The engine sucks air in, but since the TB Plate is closed, it creates a vacuum.

So if my vacuum is good, but PSI is low, then most likely, the problem is somewhere before or after the manifold and engine. That means it's either somewhere in the intake, blower, crossover pipe, or exhaust/EGR.

That sound about right?

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

Sounds about right, but now ya gotta find it...

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Anyone else want to confirm that? (not that I don't belive you, mtrai760)

Also, there is a kink in the oil return line, but it's only a half-kink. there is still a decent amount of space for oil to get through.

Is that line running pressure? Or is oil just dripping down it?

Could it be that there is a good amount of pressure through there and the kink is causing backpressure, leaving too much oil in the blower, and causing it to be slowed down by the oil?

Thanks,
IanS

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

The whole system is normally in a state of Vacuum, regardless if the throttle plate is opened or closed, because the engine is always sucking in air... The S/C has to overcome the amount of air going in and then provide the extra air to create boost... Engines consume crazy amounts of air to fuel, something like 40k gallons of air for every 1 gallon of fuel consumed...

iansw

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm....true

Well, I keep saying I'll give up, but it's all I can think about. I keep in front of my computer waiting for someone to post with the answer or point me in the right direction.

I think this is best left to experts. I'm taking her to garage SPL after work tomorrow. We'll see what happens then. If that doesn't work out, I have an appointment with Greg's Japanese Auto the next day to do a full compression test on my engine and see if they can locate the problem.

IanS

AllGo

iTrader: (1)

This 6psi seems right just look at other autos out there they just don't make the boost 5spds do, and the auto surely makes your hp numbers look lower just look at your ~145hp baseline.... weak. I have also heard that the V-2s make better boost and that is what Y2kev is running with a 2.87" only making 11psi. I am just saying I don't think you have a problem other than you being an auto and a V-1.