Lowering/ Alignment Problem...???
06-26-2002, 11:33 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 90
Lowering/ Alignment Problem...???
I plan on lowering my car, I have H&R's and KYB AGX's, going in on Friday... however I did not order a camber kit. Will I have issues/ problems trying to align my car because the camber will be more toe'd out, or for any other reason? Thanks......
06-26-2002, 11:44 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 260
Re: Lowering/ Alignment Problem...???
Originally posted by BlackMaxAaron
I plan on lowering my car, I have H&R's and KYB AGX's, going in on Friday... however I did not order a camber kit. Will I have issues/ problems trying to align my car because the camber will be more toe'd out, or for any other reason? Thanks......
I plan on lowering my car, I have H&R's and KYB AGX's, going in on Friday... however I did not order a camber kit. Will I have issues/ problems trying to align my car because the camber will be more toe'd out, or for any other reason? Thanks......
06-26-2002, 11:51 AM
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 90
Re: Re: Lowering/ Alignment Problem...???
Originally posted by maxima4me
If I remember correctly you don't need a camber kit unless you're going to be dropping your car more than 2 inches, which you're not. So in short: No you don't need camber kit, Yes you do need alignment.
If I remember correctly you don't need a camber kit unless you're going to be dropping your car more than 2 inches, which you're not. So in short: No you don't need camber kit, Yes you do need alignment.
06-26-2002, 12:04 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Who's doing the install?
If your doing it yourself, here a tip on camber.
When you tighten the lower strut mount bolts pull as much positive camber as you can. The small amount of play in the bolt holes is good for about one degree of camber adjustment.
If you lower your car, your camber goes more into the negative area. Thats why you need to get as much positive adjustment as you can. Our cars track excellent with about negative .5 to 1 degree of camber.
To get proper camber on your lowered car do the following:
When you put the lower strut bolts in, pay close attention to the play you have in the rotor/hub assembly before you tighten them up. Thats the camber adjustment on our cars. You need to pull the top of the hub/rotor assembly twards you (out away from strut) and then snug up the two lower bolts.
Do this on both sides so you have equal settings!!!
If the subframe on your car is straight, it should track nicely with no left/right pull at all. Make sure you have it aligned so the toe can be set correctly. Toe changes when you drop your car, it goes toe out and we need about 2mm toe in. If you really want to play around, 1/2 turn outwards on your tie rods will get the toe pretty close. Always have it checked by a shop to make sure it's correct.
NOTE: On stock springs you can do just the opposite with camber. That is to get maximum amount of negative camber into the front end. (Push top of rotor/hub away from you or in twards the strut) That usually produces excellent straight line tracking and makes the front end feel tighter.
If your doing it yourself, here a tip on camber.
When you tighten the lower strut mount bolts pull as much positive camber as you can. The small amount of play in the bolt holes is good for about one degree of camber adjustment.
If you lower your car, your camber goes more into the negative area. Thats why you need to get as much positive adjustment as you can. Our cars track excellent with about negative .5 to 1 degree of camber.
To get proper camber on your lowered car do the following:
When you put the lower strut bolts in, pay close attention to the play you have in the rotor/hub assembly before you tighten them up. Thats the camber adjustment on our cars. You need to pull the top of the hub/rotor assembly twards you (out away from strut) and then snug up the two lower bolts.
Do this on both sides so you have equal settings!!!
If the subframe on your car is straight, it should track nicely with no left/right pull at all. Make sure you have it aligned so the toe can be set correctly. Toe changes when you drop your car, it goes toe out and we need about 2mm toe in. If you really want to play around, 1/2 turn outwards on your tie rods will get the toe pretty close. Always have it checked by a shop to make sure it's correct.
NOTE: On stock springs you can do just the opposite with camber. That is to get maximum amount of negative camber into the front end. (Push top of rotor/hub away from you or in twards the strut) That usually produces excellent straight line tracking and makes the front end feel tighter.
06-26-2002, 04:44 PM
#5
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Who's doing the install?
If your doing it yourself, here a tip on camber.
When you tighten the lower strut mount bolts pull as much positive camber as you can. The small amount of play in the bolt holes is good for about one degree of camber adjustment.
If you lower your car, your camber goes more into the negative area. Thats why you need to get as much positive adjustment as you can. Our cars track excellent with about negative .5 to 1 degree of camber.
To get proper camber on your lowered car do the following:
When you put the lower strut bolts in, pay close attention to the play you have in the rotor/hub assembly before you tighten them up. Thats the camber adjustment on our cars. You need to pull the top of the hub/rotor assembly twards you (out away from strut) and then snug up the two lower bolts.
Do this on both sides so you have equal settings!!!
If the subframe on your car is straight, it should track nicely with no left/right pull at all. Make sure you have it aligned so the toe can be set correctly. Toe changes when you drop your car, it goes toe out and we need about 2mm toe in. If you really want to play around, 1/2 turn outwards on your tie rods will get the toe pretty close. Always have it checked by a shop to make sure it's correct.
NOTE: On stock springs you can do just the opposite with camber. That is to get maximum amount of negative camber into the front end. (Push top of rotor/hub away from you or in twards the strut) That usually produces excellent straight line tracking and makes the front end feel tighter.
Who's doing the install?
If your doing it yourself, here a tip on camber.
When you tighten the lower strut mount bolts pull as much positive camber as you can. The small amount of play in the bolt holes is good for about one degree of camber adjustment.
If you lower your car, your camber goes more into the negative area. Thats why you need to get as much positive adjustment as you can. Our cars track excellent with about negative .5 to 1 degree of camber.
To get proper camber on your lowered car do the following:
When you put the lower strut bolts in, pay close attention to the play you have in the rotor/hub assembly before you tighten them up. Thats the camber adjustment on our cars. You need to pull the top of the hub/rotor assembly twards you (out away from strut) and then snug up the two lower bolts.
Do this on both sides so you have equal settings!!!
If the subframe on your car is straight, it should track nicely with no left/right pull at all. Make sure you have it aligned so the toe can be set correctly. Toe changes when you drop your car, it goes toe out and we need about 2mm toe in. If you really want to play around, 1/2 turn outwards on your tie rods will get the toe pretty close. Always have it checked by a shop to make sure it's correct.
NOTE: On stock springs you can do just the opposite with camber. That is to get maximum amount of negative camber into the front end. (Push top of rotor/hub away from you or in twards the strut) That usually produces excellent straight line tracking and makes the front end feel tighter.
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