ok blah....

ANYONE w/ a 96 do the FOG LIGHT MOD?????????????????????

 

search, search, search,

hey man i hear that search is a good function

 

i did mine are independent, not even hooked up to parkin lights, now they are just like aftermarket ones. supa lao gave me the whole instructions on it, it was somewhat hard but worth it.

 

Connecting the fogs to a seperate switch is no problem... but i really wanted to get the darn thing working w/ the corners.

I did attempt and after spending the WHOLE DAY figuring out, i used my last option and just stuck a 15 amp fuse into the freakin corner lights. It works now.... but the on/off function of the fog lights functions like a dim/bright function lol. oh well... if i get Xenon bulbs i will rewire it like an aftermarket fog and have a seperate switch.

1996 Fog Rewire is NOT the same as the 1997+... at least i tried EVERYTHING and it did not work so i dunno how u 96' ppl did it... if u even got it working.

 

i dont get what ur talkin about, when u have it independent like me, and u did notice i am a 95, u can use it when ur headlights are off, with the parking lights, and with the headlights, and the highbeams. its not a separate switch, its the stock turning one, but it works like aftermarket ones where i can use them with whatever i want

 

get to the bottom of your fog light relay. Look for a green/yellow wire with silver dashes on it. Trace that wire down to the thick harness right near the washer fluid spout at the bottom. Take that wire and throw it to a switched or constant source. Now you have "rewired" fogs and still use the stock switch.

Mine are wired to a constant lead, that way they can go on with the car off and with the brights, all using the factory switch!

**not responsible if you blow any circuits or fry anything in your car**

Ant

 

So you SPLICED the green/yellow wire to a constant source? If I did that, then i'd use the factory switch (FOGLIGHT: On/Off). The prob w/ that is that switch i never pay attention to that often and i'd accidently leave em on.

Now that i think about it... the best way is to splice the foglight 12V+ relay wire to the Corner light's 12V+ relay wire. Doin this would save wire and the extra labor and would probably function the way its supposed to...

does anyone know why the corners would be brighter if connected w/ the power source for the foglights?? Are there resistors goin to the corners or is a direct connection to the battery except for relays and switches on the circuit?

 

dont know if this will work, but give it a look.. http://www.vqpower.com/foglight.htm

 

Anyone know if the 95-96 rewire would be the same for a 96 i30? Assumming it would, but don't know.

 

Most likely is, just look in front of the coolant resevoir and if you see a relay box and happen to notice FOG LAMP or something like that, it means it is the same. After you attempt it, let us know how it goes because i had quite some difficulty getting it done properly. thanks

btw, this is the best website i could find on the rewiring:

http://www.users.voicenet.com/~breau...fogrewire.html

NOTE: Stupid me, i didn't read it all and noticed its the 1997 Rewiring directions, but i heard the mod should work for all 4th gen...

 

Taken from http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/

Actual Stock wiring: The foglight circuit goes through a regular relay with one power input, one signal input, and the output (and a ground, I think). Here's Nissan's clever trick: The signal input does *NOT* come from the foglight switch! It comes from the lowbeams' +12V. Then, you ask, how does the foglight switch affect the foglights? The foglight switch on the turn signal stalk COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT BY PROVIDING A GROUND. Neato huh? So *only* when the lowbeams are on can the foglights run.
[A relay is defined as a unit with a power input, a signal input, and a power output. When there is no voltage in the signal input, the power input and power output are DISconnected. When there is a voltage on the signal input, the relay connects the power wires, sending power to the power output (from the power input). For any computer science majors out there: Think of a relay as a great big "and" gate.]
Here's what you're looking for -- the step-by-step procedure to rewire the foglights to behave as described above:

[All directions will be referenced how you see it when looking at it, not absolute sides of the car. i.e. when you have the hood open and you're looking at the engine, the steering column (in the US) is on the RIGHT!]
Locate the relay box on the left side of the engine bay, which is in front of the strut tower. On the lid of this box you will see items such as "CORN LIGHT", "FR FOG LIGHT", and "AIR CON".
Right in front of this box is the coolant reservoir. It is held to the fender with two 10 mm hex bolts. Remove the bolts and pull the coolant reservoir away from the fender. We need to temporarily relocate this reservoir because we'll need this space to work on the wiring. I suggest you lean the reservoir on the radiator between it and the engine block... It fits there quite well without falling and making a mess :-)
Open the relay box. This is really easy. Standing on the [absolute] right side of the car in front of the RF wheel, pull up on the right side of the lid on that little latch.
You will need to remove the two relays on the far right and the relay on the far left to be able to remove the bolts holding the relay box to the chassis. To do this, you will notice that each relay is held down with a little clip, which is on the side of the relay facing the engine block. Using a flathead screwdriver, pull that clip away from each of the aforementioned three relays and pull the relay up. These relays *should* be identical but you never know, so remember which relay is from which location and put them back in the same locations.
Remove the two bolts holding the relay box to the chassis. There's also a "leg" holding the relay box to the wheelwell protrusion, under where the coolant reservoir usually is. (Aren't you glad you removed it?). Pull up on this arm, jiggling it sideways in the process to help it come out.
Now look at the sides of the relay box. You will notice that the relay box is actually two pieces held together -- like a Rubbermaid microwaveable box... the lid comes off. In this case, the lid is the "Grill" that holds all the relays in place. You will notice on the sides of the relay box that there are fasteners holding the lid on. If memory serves me correctly, there are three on each of the long sides and two on each of the short sides. Unfasten them all.
At this point, you would expect the relay box to open, but it won't. There are two more clips to unlatch. These clips are on the outboard side of the relay box on the top edge. They're between the bolt-arms that connect to the chassis, and they're very insignificant-looking, just sticking upward in a hole. (Keep your minds out of the gutter, guys). While pulling the lid up from the opposite side (which is already "open"), push each of these clips towards the middle of the relay box. You will hear a click and the side you just unclipped will come free.
Pull the lid upwards, exposing the undersides of all the relays. Lots of wires, eh? Now find the original TOP lid of the relay box, which has all the labels of the relays. You will notice that the fog light relay is the top right, when looking from above. This is one of the relays you removed to get to the bolt holding the relay box to the chassis.
Turn on the headlights and whip out your sharp-needled voltage light. Poke the terminals of the fog light relay connector with it -- make sure that the left (when looking at it from above from the absolute right side of the car) connector has +12V. There will also be another terminal with +12V, but the left one is the important one. If the left one does not show +12V with the headlights on, then something's drastically different with your car. If that is the case, please email me at Andi@airmail.net to notify me of this. Also, If there is anything else in this document that contradicts your car's characteristics, please stop and email me.
Assuming that Step 9 showed the left terminal to have +12V, flip over the relay-holder grill and look at the underside of the fog light relay holder. Remember, we've flipped it so what was the left terminal is now the right terminal -- i.e. the terminal on the closer to the center of the relay box. This is the signal terminal. There should be a green/yellow-striped wire leading to this terminal. (There might also be a different green wire going to another terminal -- ignore that one).
Tug on the green/yellow-striped wire leading to the signal terminal to get a decent length of it to do surgery on. Cut the wire. Wrap the end coming from below with electrical tape so as not to cause a fire hazard... You don't want a +12V wire hanging naked in the relay box do you? Now connect a long (I'd say three foot), well-insulated, thick wire to the end of the wire hanging from the relay. I don't know which method is best... I used one of those plastic thingees that takes two wires and stabs them with a piece of metal, which conducts the electricity. I then wrapped this well with electrical tape so as not to cause the aforementioned fire hazard.
Find the best route for this wire to exit the relay box. Maybe you could drill a nice small hole in the bottom of the relay box? Here's what I did: route this wire over the right edge of the bottom part of the relay box. Then put the grill back on... You'll notice a perfectly-sized gap between the walls for the wire. Fasten all the clips of the relay box's grill's lid and squeeze the two together well to get all the clips tight. This is especially important for those two hidden clips that held the box at the last part of the opening procedure... remember?
Put the relay box back in its original position and fasten it's leg back to the wheelwell protrusion by just pushing it down into the hole. Then use the two bolts to fasten the box's arms back onto the chassis.
Put the three relays you removed at the beginning back into the relay box in their original positions. Put the cover (the one with the labels) back on the relay box.
Optional: to test the setup: turn on the foglight switch and leave the headlights off. Extend the new wire coming out of the relay box over the engine and touch it to the battery's positive battery terminal. The foglights should turn on. Why? This is the signal wire for the foglights -- whenever this wire has +12V *and* the foglight switch is on, the fogs should turn on. We will now connect this signal wire to the side marker light in the bumper -- that way, whenever either the parking lights or the headlights are on, the fogs will have the signal to run -- i.e. they will have "permission" to turn on according to the foglight switch.
Gently pry off the right front side marker lamp using a flathead screwdriver wrapped in a clean cloth. Disconnect the wire coming from behind it. Put the side marker light itself away for a minute as it's the WIRES that we're concerned with. [Note: you might want to unscrew and disconnect the turn signal as well to be able to pull the wire farther out.]
Route the new wire coming out of the relay box through the fender to the side marker light. This is easier than it sounds -- right below the relay box there's a very large hole in the inner fender. You can literally fit your arm into it (take your watch off first) and just push it all the way through. Then find it through the side marker's hole in the bumper and pull it out. Then remount the coolant reservoir back in its original position.
Right behind the wiring harness for the side marker light, there's two wires that immediately hide inside an accordian-type protection tube. Cut enough of this tube off (about an inch...) so that you can splice the new wire from the relay box to the red/blue-striped wire coming from the wiring harness. Now splice the new wire to this red/blue-striped wire. I used the same method as in the relay box. Don't forget to "terminate" or cover the end of the new wire with electrical tape if it doesn't end inside the splicing instrument. Electrical tape is your friend.
Connect and reinstall the turn signal and side marker light in the bumper.
Finished. Now test the new setup by turning on the parking lights and enabling the foglight switch. Then turn on the headlights and blink the highbeams... foglights should remain on.