Guys,

I really need a major help this time. Big time!

First, I bought the Frankencar Intake and decided to clean up my TB. Guess what, now it sticks at 3500 rpm (the rpm needle will go to 6500 and bounce off without me pressing the gas pedal).

What causes this? Should I clean up the TB again and make sure no dirt/oil sticking between the butterfly plate and the BT??

Second, I installed my tires at Firestone and they broke off my McGuard KEY and the LOCK NUT. Now the front left tire could not be unmounted, and I wonder how to remove the damaged lock nut? I did buy another key at McGuard and guess what....now the adapter key is damaged (it won't fit to my other 3 wheels).

How do I get the lock nut off the stud? Should I buy a deep socket 10mm and hammer it to the lock nut so I could attach the wrench and remove the rounded lock?

Third, how do I change the hood strut? I searched and found the part number for the strong arm and bought the replacement. Now, how do I get the OEM ones off the hood? Instruction somewhere? I found it that I did not have enough clearance to put any wrench to turn those nuts between the hood itself and the hood strut.

Help! Help! Help!


I and my girlfriend already worked for a straight 8 hours to remedy this issue but we could not fix the problem. I did search the forum but I could not get what I wanted.

Thank you for those who can give us some suggestions!

 

I used the soceket and hammer method to get my GORILLA lock set off my used car that I bought with no key to get them off.

Worked like a charm. However, my be psychological but I felt it make my rotors kinda warp. Maybe just me but I did not have vibrations upon braking until the day I hammered the bolts.

I had to use a 3/4 deep socket for my lock set.

hammer them slowly and then keep on checking to see for slippage.

Otherwise, the other method is to weld a lock nut to the top of the lock and use a tirewrench to get it off....might damage the rim though with the torch.

 

Another idea is to use the McGuard Key, and hammer it to the wheel lock instead of using a deep socket. The new key is still intact (materially), but it would not fit into the other 3 rims.

I am a newbie about these wheels, but I already changed my brake rotors (and put a brand new stud as well to replace a strip stud), so I am thinking to go with this approach.

Now, I also got an idea with a left-hand bolt. Basically, I need to drill a whole on the key, screw the bolt in, tighten the bolt (to the left, since it's a left-hand screw) and naturally unscrew the wheel lock off the stud (since they are right-hand drive).

However, in order to approach this, I believe I need to know the thickness of the wheel lock, and I could measure it (so that the drill would not drill into the stud).

What do you think?

I know today is Saturday...and it's past 12am, and I do appreciate your reply. Hopefully more people will look into this on tomorrow....

Man, in addition to wheel lock damage, those guys also scratched my powder-coated rims......




I used the soceket and hammer method to get my GORILLA lock set off my used car that I bought with no key to get them off.

Worked like a charm. However, my be psychological but I felt it make my rotors kinda warp. Maybe just me but I did not have vibrations upon braking until the day I hammered the bolts.

I had to use a 3/4 deep socket for my lock set.

hammer them slowly and then keep on checking to see for slippage.

Otherwise, the other method is to weld a lock nut to the top of the lock and use a tirewrench to get it off....might damage the rim though with the torch.

 

Good Lord!

After only 30 minutes, we were able to fix the sticky throttle. The issue was the bolt supplied from the midpipe. I oriented it to "touch" the throttle, making it sticky.

Plus, the TB was still dirty...so I cleaned it up real good this time. The amount of dirt was unbelievable, but it's clean now.

The car failed to start the first time I fired it and it was struggling to keep idling the second time. However, after running for about 5 seconds, the idle is smooth and nice. I still think that the ECU is still learning the mid-pipe, but the car drives smoother afterwards.

One down, two to go.

Guys, come on......how do I replace the hood struts/shocks?
And those who needed to take off a rounded lug nut, how do you do that?

Thanks!