What weight syn. oil you using
Originally posted by iwannabmw
You would be correct.
You would be correct.
I have a road trip this weekend and I would like to get the oil changed before I hit the road.
I have been using mobil 1 5w30 and all is well (I'm on the oil spreadsheet
)
FYI I just bought a few cases of mobil 1 0w30 for $2.99/qt at target! Seems some stores are getting rid of the oil that does not sell well. I plan on using it for my winter oil change.
Although I may switch to amsoil because of the new formula of mobil 1...
)FYI I just bought a few cases of mobil 1 0w30 for $2.99/qt at target! Seems some stores are getting rid of the oil that does not sell well. I plan on using it for my winter oil change.
Although I may switch to amsoil because of the new formula of mobil 1...
Originally posted by PrinzII
After reading this post, I am coming to the conclusion that 5W30 is a good weight for 2k2s and Amsoil or Mobil 1 is a good choice.
By all means, correct me if I am wrong here.
After reading this post, I am coming to the conclusion that 5W30 is a good weight for 2k2s and Amsoil or Mobil 1 is a good choice.
By all means, correct me if I am wrong here.
There is no reason to go thinner than a 10w-30 except in a northern winter (and even then a 10w-30 if a good full syn will be fine almost everywhere).
I say again, the surrent trend to thinner oils is driven by fuel economy considerations by the manufacturers, NOT as by suddenly discovered secret of lubrication, that thinner oils protect better.

The opposite is the case.
The ONLY advantage (other than minute mpg improvements) thin oils offer, is better start-up protection.
And while this is important in overhead cam engines such as ours, it is a non issue when using full syn oils of the proper grade for the season.
Since full syn oils flow so well a 0w-30, 5-30, 10w-30 5w-40 , 10w-40 all flow equally well for all intents and purposes in summer , this would even applyif not a syn.
If a syn ,it would have to get pretty cold to see a difference in flow among those grades.
Even a 10w-40 will protect very well during start-up, if a full syn.
I would never drop below a 40 weight except in a harsh winter.
In KY I will run a 5w-40 in winter.
Fred...
Say Fred, how did the meet go in da 'Ville a few weekends back?! I got stuck in Mexico on business and didn't get into Lexington until midnight on the 9th and just couldn't motivate myself on Saturday. Sorry I missed out on things but keep me in the loop for the next go 'round.
Originally posted by palmerwmd
I respectfully disagree.
There is no reason to go thinner than a 10w-30 except in a northern winter (and even then a 10w-30 if a good full syn will be fine almost everywhere).
I say again, the surrent trend to thinner oils is driven by fuel economy considerations by the manufacturers, NOT as by suddenly discovered secret of lubrication, that thinner oils protect better.

The opposite is the case.
The ONLY advantage (other than minute mpg improvements) thin oils offer, is better start-up protection.
And while this is important in overhead cam engines such as ours, it is a non issue when using full syn oils of the proper grade for the season.
Since full syn oils flow so well a 0w-30, 5-30, 10w-30 5w-40 , 10w-40 all flow equally well for all intents and purposes in summer , this would even applyif not a syn.
If a syn ,it would have to get pretty cold to see a difference in flow among those grades.
Even a 10w-40 will protect very well during start-up, if a full syn.
I would never drop below a 40 weight except in a harsh winter.
In KY I will run a 5w-40 in winter.
Fred...
I respectfully disagree.
There is no reason to go thinner than a 10w-30 except in a northern winter (and even then a 10w-30 if a good full syn will be fine almost everywhere).
I say again, the surrent trend to thinner oils is driven by fuel economy considerations by the manufacturers, NOT as by suddenly discovered secret of lubrication, that thinner oils protect better.

The opposite is the case.
The ONLY advantage (other than minute mpg improvements) thin oils offer, is better start-up protection.
And while this is important in overhead cam engines such as ours, it is a non issue when using full syn oils of the proper grade for the season.
Since full syn oils flow so well a 0w-30, 5-30, 10w-30 5w-40 , 10w-40 all flow equally well for all intents and purposes in summer , this would even applyif not a syn.
If a syn ,it would have to get pretty cold to see a difference in flow among those grades.
Even a 10w-40 will protect very well during start-up, if a full syn.
I would never drop below a 40 weight except in a harsh winter.
In KY I will run a 5w-40 in winter.
Fred...
Since PrinzII is interested in Mobil 1, let's look at the numbers for that. At operating temperature, the viscosity of Mobil 1 5W-30 is 9.7cSt, the 10W-30 is 9.8cSt. How is that miniscule difference going to effect wear?? Furthermore, the viscosity index of the 5W-30 is much higher than the index of the 10W-30, indicating the oil is much more stable and resistant to change with the temperature. I don't see the tradeoff in only using the 10W-30.
Yes, a full syn 10W-30 will flow much better than even a dino 5W-30 in colder weather, and will work very well to protect at startup in cold weather. That doesn't mean that a 5W-30 won't protect BETTER.
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Yes, the current trend to "thinner" oils is fuel economy, but this only effects wear when we're talking a 5W-20 wt. oil. At operating temperature, a 30 wt. oil is a 30 wt. oil. The 5W-30 offers the better start-up prptection and fuel economy while the engine is warming up, but still offers the same protection of a 10W-30 once the engine is warm.
Since PrinzII is interested in Mobil 1, let's look at the numbers for that. At operating temperature, the viscosity of Mobil 1 5W-30 is 9.7cSt, the 10W-30 is 9.8cSt. How is that miniscule difference going to effect wear?? Furthermore, the viscosity index of the 5W-30 is much higher than the index of the 10W-30, indicating the oil is much more stable and resistant to change with the temperature. I don't see the tradeoff in only using the 10W-30.
Yes, a full syn 10W-30 will flow much better than even a dino 5W-30 in colder weather, and will work very well to protect at startup in cold weather. That doesn't mean that a 5W-30 won't protect BETTER.
Yes, the current trend to "thinner" oils is fuel economy, but this only effects wear when we're talking a 5W-20 wt. oil. At operating temperature, a 30 wt. oil is a 30 wt. oil. The 5W-30 offers the better start-up prptection and fuel economy while the engine is warming up, but still offers the same protection of a 10W-30 once the engine is warm.
Since PrinzII is interested in Mobil 1, let's look at the numbers for that. At operating temperature, the viscosity of Mobil 1 5W-30 is 9.7cSt, the 10W-30 is 9.8cSt. How is that miniscule difference going to effect wear?? Furthermore, the viscosity index of the 5W-30 is much higher than the index of the 10W-30, indicating the oil is much more stable and resistant to change with the temperature. I don't see the tradeoff in only using the 10W-30.
Yes, a full syn 10W-30 will flow much better than even a dino 5W-30 in colder weather, and will work very well to protect at startup in cold weather. That doesn't mean that a 5W-30 won't protect BETTER.
Amsoil tends to remain quite stable in a 30-weight over an oil interval, as does ULX-110.
The Mobil 1 synthetic xW/40 "European" formulation looks quite promising though.
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Amsoil tends to remain quite stable in a 30-weight over an oil interval, as does ULX-110.
Amsoil tends to remain quite stable in a 30-weight over an oil interval, as does ULX-110.
Originally posted by palmerwmd
I respectfully disagree.
There is no reason to go thinner than a 10w-30 except in a northern winter (and even then a 10w-30 if a good full syn will be fine almost everywhere).
I say again, the surrent trend to thinner oils is driven by fuel economy considerations by the manufacturers, NOT as by suddenly discovered secret of lubrication, that thinner oils protect better.

The opposite is the case.
The ONLY advantage (other than minute mpg improvements) thin oils offer, is better start-up protection.
And while this is important in overhead cam engines such as ours, it is a non issue when using full syn oils of the proper grade for the season.
Since full syn oils flow so well a 0w-30, 5-30, 10w-30 5w-40 , 10w-40 all flow equally well for all intents and purposes in summer , this would even applyif not a syn.
If a syn ,it would have to get pretty cold to see a difference in flow among those grades.
Even a 10w-40 will protect very well during start-up, if a full syn.
I would never drop below a 40 weight except in a harsh winter.
In KY I will run a 5w-40 in winter.
Fred...
I respectfully disagree.
There is no reason to go thinner than a 10w-30 except in a northern winter (and even then a 10w-30 if a good full syn will be fine almost everywhere).
I say again, the surrent trend to thinner oils is driven by fuel economy considerations by the manufacturers, NOT as by suddenly discovered secret of lubrication, that thinner oils protect better.

The opposite is the case.
The ONLY advantage (other than minute mpg improvements) thin oils offer, is better start-up protection.
And while this is important in overhead cam engines such as ours, it is a non issue when using full syn oils of the proper grade for the season.
Since full syn oils flow so well a 0w-30, 5-30, 10w-30 5w-40 , 10w-40 all flow equally well for all intents and purposes in summer , this would even applyif not a syn.
If a syn ,it would have to get pretty cold to see a difference in flow among those grades.
Even a 10w-40 will protect very well during start-up, if a full syn.
I would never drop below a 40 weight except in a harsh winter.
In KY I will run a 5w-40 in winter.
Fred...
Considering I live in Chicago where the winters can get quite brutal, that is a huge concern for me. Therefore, with what has been said here, I am going with the 5w30.
Prinz,
But it's still summer and it won't get cold enough to need a 5w-30 for months yet.
In the meantime running a oil too thin for the temps (lots of rough traffic in hot weather left in Chicago right?) will give you less protection than if the proper viscosity was picked.
Actually a 10w-40 full synthetic will flow much better at low temps than a non syn 5w-30, which most ppl consider a good grade for winter (of course we know better and go with syn)
In the middle of a northern winter 5w-30 would indeed be a good choice (even tho there are 0w-40 and 5w-40 full synthetics on the market I would pick over a 5w-30 in winter)
Fred...
But it's still summer and it won't get cold enough to need a 5w-30 for months yet.
In the meantime running a oil too thin for the temps (lots of rough traffic in hot weather left in Chicago right?) will give you less protection than if the proper viscosity was picked.
Actually a 10w-40 full synthetic will flow much better at low temps than a non syn 5w-30, which most ppl consider a good grade for winter (of course we know better and go with syn)
In the middle of a northern winter 5w-30 would indeed be a good choice (even tho there are 0w-40 and 5w-40 full synthetics on the market I would pick over a 5w-30 in winter)
Fred...
Originally posted by palmerwmd
But it's still summer and it won't get cold enough to need a 5w-30 for months yet.
But it's still summer and it won't get cold enough to need a 5w-30 for months yet.
Just switched to Mobil 1 5w30 at 5k.
Originally posted by GimmeTorq
You never know. We're talking Chicago weather here... 40 degree F shifts in a day? Yep, we got 'em. It's crazy!
Just switched to Mobil 1 5w30 at 5k.
You never know. We're talking Chicago weather here... 40 degree F shifts in a day? Yep, we got 'em. It's crazy!
Just switched to Mobil 1 5w30 at 5k.
Re: Re: What weight syn. oil you using
Originally posted by E55AMG2
MOBIL 1 15w50
MOBIL 1 15w50
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ynthetic+mobil
Re: Re: Re: What weight syn. oil you using
I went ahead and listened to my engine, and went so far as to put a tape recorder under the hood, just in case there was something the wind noise drowned out. I didnt notice any tapping or other noises that are caused by oil starvation. That post was made by the owner of a 1997 maxima SE, the oil requirements might be diferent. I had a 2k1 SE that I traded in for this one, and I used 15w 50 in. It also had no problems in the 27,865 miles i put on it last year. I will continue to watch it though, as I always have, for any signs of mechanical troubles.
Re: Re: Re: Re: What weight syn. oil you using
Originally posted by E55AMG2
I went ahead and listened to my engine, and went so far as to put a tape recorder under the hood, just in case there was something the wind noise drowned out. I didnt notice any tapping or other noises that are caused by oil starvation. That post was made by the owner of a 1997 maxima SE, the oil requirements might be diferent. I had a 2k1 SE that I traded in for this one, and I used 15w 50 in. It also had no problems in the 27,865 miles i put on it last year. I will continue to watch it though, as I always have, for any signs of mechanical troubles.
I went ahead and listened to my engine, and went so far as to put a tape recorder under the hood, just in case there was something the wind noise drowned out. I didnt notice any tapping or other noises that are caused by oil starvation. That post was made by the owner of a 1997 maxima SE, the oil requirements might be diferent. I had a 2k1 SE that I traded in for this one, and I used 15w 50 in. It also had no problems in the 27,865 miles i put on it last year. I will continue to watch it though, as I always have, for any signs of mechanical troubles.
Originally posted by E55AMG2
i burn up a quart of 10w30 oil every 1000mi, 15w50 doesnt burn up. and yes, it is my car and my money
i burn up a quart of 10w30 oil every 1000mi, 15w50 doesnt burn up. and yes, it is my car and my money
Re: ? for Bill
Originally posted by buzek
Bill-
In your privious post did I understand correctly that you don't like any of the Mobil 1 30w synthetics? If so, why and what brand do you like?
Bill-
In your privious post did I understand correctly that you don't like any of the Mobil 1 30w synthetics? If so, why and what brand do you like?
Personally, if I had to use an off the shelf synthetic, I would take a serious look at Mobil 1's new "European" xW/40 formulas available at Auto Zone in my area. Either 0W/40 or 5W/40 is available. It has a good reputation with the VW guys.
Other than that, from the spreadsheet results, only Amsoil and ULX-110 maintained strong viscosity ratings over long drain intervals well into the accepted range for a 30-weight oil.
Re: Re: Re: ? for Bill
Originally posted by E55AMG2
what you think of 15w 50 supersyn??
what you think of 15w 50 supersyn??
I personally wouldn't go over a 10W/40 regardless of circumstance on a VQ. I would sooner sell the car if I had that many bad noises that needed to be quelled.
you guys think it's too late to switch to syn (amsoil 10w40) at 60k?
EDIT: actually, i think it might stick with 10w30, as the pacnw is a pretty mild climate, and the VQ is a pretty tight engine.
suggestions? opinions? thanx.
EDIT: actually, i think it might stick with 10w30, as the pacnw is a pretty mild climate, and the VQ is a pretty tight engine.
suggestions? opinions? thanx.
Originally posted by schuss
you guys think it's too late to switch to syn (amsoil 10w40) at 60k?
EDIT: actually, i think it might stick with 10w30, as the pacnw is a pretty mild climate, and the VQ is a pretty tight engine.
suggestions? opinions? thanx.
you guys think it's too late to switch to syn (amsoil 10w40) at 60k?
EDIT: actually, i think it might stick with 10w30, as the pacnw is a pretty mild climate, and the VQ is a pretty tight engine.
suggestions? opinions? thanx.

I would recommend the 10W-30 over the 10W-40 for you.
Originally posted by iwannabmw
60K is not too late at all, as long as the engine is in good shape. VQ's have been switched as high as 130k with no issues and yours is just breaking in
I would recommend the 10W-30 over the 10W-40 for you.
60K is not too late at all, as long as the engine is in good shape. VQ's have been switched as high as 130k with no issues and yours is just breaking in

I would recommend the 10W-30 over the 10W-40 for you.
List please
Bill,
I have read this thread the whole way threw and as always appreciate the valuable information you and some of the other oil Gurus contribute. Could you quickly make a list of the prefered synthetic oils, of course based on your opinion. I am getting ready to take my 2K1 with 50K on it, in for an oil change and I know with the various manufacturers changing their formulas I am not sure which to use. I had been using Valvoline's synthetic. Thanks in advance.
BTW I had been using Nissan's filter, still have 4 left, are they ok, or are the ones you had listed earlier better?
I have read this thread the whole way threw and as always appreciate the valuable information you and some of the other oil Gurus contribute. Could you quickly make a list of the prefered synthetic oils, of course based on your opinion. I am getting ready to take my 2K1 with 50K on it, in for an oil change and I know with the various manufacturers changing their formulas I am not sure which to use. I had been using Valvoline's synthetic. Thanks in advance.
BTW I had been using Nissan's filter, still have 4 left, are they ok, or are the ones you had listed earlier better?
Re: Re: Re: Re: ? for Bill
Originally posted by bill99gxe
Bad idea.
I personally wouldn't go over a 10W/40 regardless of circumstance on a VQ. I would sooner sell the car if I had that many bad noises that needed to be quelled.
Bad idea.
I personally wouldn't go over a 10W/40 regardless of circumstance on a VQ. I would sooner sell the car if I had that many bad noises that needed to be quelled.
I ended up trying the 15w/50 Supersyin from mobil 1, and there havent been ay problems. No clicking or ticking on startup (or anytime for that matter). They say the VQ is too tight, but i guess after a solid break in of 11,000 miles in 4 months, it loosened up a bit.
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