asu174

iTrader: (11)

I have the Bose subwoofer in my rear deck and a 12" Punch sub. Do you think that removing the Bose sub completely would make the 12" sound that much better? Or should I just leave it there and have it cover the midbass?

My feeling is that even though the Bose sub sucks big time, I might as well leave it there to cover the midbass frequencies. Any thoughts?

2K2_6spd

iTrader: (1)

Take it out. My car has the cut-out for the Blose and I have 2 10's in the trunk, you can really feel the bass better with that hole opened up, plus you'll prolly shave a few pounds.

SHPatel

iTrader: (1)

I've been planning on doing something similar but was wondering if I could replace the bose sub with another sub in it's place. Although I'm sure I would have to buy another amp since the bose amp will not work with it. Right??? And how much do you guys think a setup like this would cost?

BTW, Asu174, how did the meguiar's work out on your paint?

asu174

iTrader: (11)

You will need a new amp too. Just go with a conventional sub. It'll be much less of a headache. you'd have to actually fabricate a box and mount it to the rear deck.

The Meguairs is AWESOME. I'm not even gonna try Zaino. I did the cleaner wax, then the show car wax, then the yellow wax. Then I touch it up with Quik Mist Detailer. Looks great!

rob van dam

iTrader: (4)

i tookt he bose sub out..my 2 12's are crazy loud.....the hole works..i hae no rattle..thats bc i have tons of dynamat..TONS!!!

ms.thicknes

I never had a bose back there....but didnt want to fill up my trunk with boxes amps tubes etc


so I have a kicker freeair subwoofer in the space that the bose would ordinarily go in


whatever speaker you buy to replace the bose...make sure you get one with the right dimensions so that you can open and close the trunk with no problem!

good luck

SHPatel

iTrader: (1)

I'm just curious as to where you bought the freeair sub and how much it costs. Did you have to DYNAMAT the trunk to reduce rattling?

ms.thicknes

nope sure dont'.....I dont' have a problem with rattling!!!

the sub is attached to the rear deck with a piece of mdf

I bought the sub from a local audio/tint/etc shop in Miami

cartronics 305-235-3312 ask for Ali, Greg or Jose
they have a website but I'm not sure what the address is (and it's NOT cartronics.com!!!)

go here for more info on the kicker freeair sub
http://www.kicker.com/ShowPage.cfm?f...enu=SUBWOOFERS

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

What size kicker sub did you buy to replace the bose sub? Thanks

Nathan

SHPatel

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bother you but what is mdf? And did you use the existing amp or purchase a new one? Will the bose amp work with the 4 ohm sub? Thanks

ms.thicknes

Kicker Comp C10
subwoofer which is a 10" sub

[quoteoriginally posted by SHPatel
Sorry to bother you but what is mdf? And did you use the existing amp or purchase a new one? Will the bose amp work with the 4 ohm sub? Thanks[/quote]

don't you watch trading spaces?? lol

MDF is Medium Density Fibreboard it's a wood composite and cheaper than "real" heavier wood it is very thick and heavy --they use it to make furniture on Trading Spaces

I never had the bose system so had to buy and amp that recently died (which has been replaced with a soundstream from nubiannupe)

the kicker freeair is a 4 ohm speaker which can also be used inside a tube it works as a free air and in an enclosure


The installation instructions from the speaker say
the infinite baffle or freeair mounting method is very effectice in a sedan type of vehicle. The easiest way to do this is to cut out the parcel shelf just big enough for your chosen speaker. The parcel shelf is usually not very strong and any flexing will decrease the bass response. To reinforce this area and to give you something to mount the woofer to, a piece of strong wood needs to be cut and mounted to the bottom of the shelf. We recommend a medium to high density fiberboard (MDF of HDF) 3/4" thick. Common particle board is not very good for use in a car stereo setup. If a good grade of MDF is not avaialbe in your area, use a good grade of marine plywood.
The key factor in utilizing the freeair method is to make sure the information coming out of the back of the woofer doesn't have a chance to mix with the information coming out of the front speakers. The wood (MDF) makes sure that the front and back are sealed from each other and that a big part of the bass doesn't get cancelled out


I am a font of information!!

Kojiro_FtT

Ok, but how does it sound?

ms.thicknes

for my purposes I am very happy with it...it's a matter of personal taste and whether or not you want to use your trunk...which I do

I like the amount of bass that it gives me

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Do you have a grille over the hole/woofer in the rear deck?

If so, any pics? I didn't see any on your website.

ms.thicknes

nope no grill just the rear deck cover... which had no original hole so the speaker can't be seen at all

you can't even see it when i open up the trunk

my digicam is also in the shop right now so i can't even take pics to show you my sleeper audio setup!!
lol

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Ok. Thanks. I'm going to use a BOSE grille to cover the port I cut in the rear deck. Depending on the difference that makes, I may follow your lead and go for a free air sub eventually.

My BassLink is MORE than plenty for now, but with the free air sub not taking up ANY of the PREMIUM trunk space for out-of-town trips, I may just have to try that.

Thanks for the tip.