Ignition coils and warrenty
Ignition coils and warrenty
I have about 38K on my 2000 5 speed and I think my coils are starting to gobad. I have had some problems intermitent with misfiring. What I want to know is if the coils are covered under the 3/36 bumper to bumper or the 5/60 power train warenty.
Re: Ignition coils and warrenty
Originally posted by block_00
I have about 38K on my 2000 5 speed and I think my coils are starting to gobad. I have had some problems intermitent with misfiring. What I want to know is if the coils are covered under the 3/36 bumper to bumper or the 5/60 power train warenty.
I have about 38K on my 2000 5 speed and I think my coils are starting to gobad. I have had some problems intermitent with misfiring. What I want to know is if the coils are covered under the 3/36 bumper to bumper or the 5/60 power train warenty.
Re: Re: Ignition coils and warrenty
Originally posted by FastCougar
99% of the time misfires are related to the spark plugs, not the coils or wires ...
99% of the time misfires are related to the spark plugs, not the coils or wires ...
yes, its covered to 60k.
Sorry ... what's the symptons of a misfire?
I just had my coils replaced today @ 65K km .. we have a 60K km warranty here in Canada ... under a TSB.
The scanner diagnosed a misfiring 5th cylinder ... the only reason I knew was b/c my 'Check Engine' light came on.
I just had my coils replaced today @ 65K km .. we have a 60K km warranty here in Canada ... under a TSB.
The scanner diagnosed a misfiring 5th cylinder ... the only reason I knew was b/c my 'Check Engine' light came on.
Unless your dealer is in a charitable mood, an ignition coil, if it's the problem, is covered under the 3 yr/36k mile warranty. Figure on spending ~$60 US each + labor. They're easy to do yourself.
You should replace the spark plugs and check all coil wiring and snap connectors first. It could be something simple and inexpensive.
Pinging when you accelerate can be caused by misfire due to faulty coil(s). I had the same problem with no SES light and no stored trouble codes at 39k miles. I was going to isolate the bad coil but decided to replace all six at once for convenience. BTW the front 3 coils have different part no than rear 3. All of this work can easily be done at an independant garage. Good luck.
You should replace the spark plugs and check all coil wiring and snap connectors first. It could be something simple and inexpensive.
Pinging when you accelerate can be caused by misfire due to faulty coil(s). I had the same problem with no SES light and no stored trouble codes at 39k miles. I was going to isolate the bad coil but decided to replace all six at once for convenience. BTW the front 3 coils have different part no than rear 3. All of this work can easily be done at an independant garage. Good luck.
Before you start ordering coils:
If you've had the problem long enough at one particular coil you might find that its spark plug has heavier/darker soot at the electrode and insulator than the others when replacing all six plugs. Make a note.
If not, then you can begin the process of elimination. Order one coil. I'd start with the front side (radiator) only because they're easier to remove. Number the old coils and replace/return until your problem goes away. If there's no improvement, permanently replace the last coil and order a rear coil.
Repeat the process with the rear set. If you only had one bad coil in the lot than this should take care of it. Who knows, you may also have two bad coils or a month from now another coil could go bad. Let me remind you that dealerships are replacing all six at once when they don't get a trouble code for misfires.
Good luck.
If you've had the problem long enough at one particular coil you might find that its spark plug has heavier/darker soot at the electrode and insulator than the others when replacing all six plugs. Make a note.
If not, then you can begin the process of elimination. Order one coil. I'd start with the front side (radiator) only because they're easier to remove. Number the old coils and replace/return until your problem goes away. If there's no improvement, permanently replace the last coil and order a rear coil.
Repeat the process with the rear set. If you only had one bad coil in the lot than this should take care of it. Who knows, you may also have two bad coils or a month from now another coil could go bad. Let me remind you that dealerships are replacing all six at once when they don't get a trouble code for misfires.
Good luck.
I had a coil go bad on me around 65K on my '99 and since I have the extended warranty it was covered so I had them all replaced.
My question is: my co-worker has a '99 Se also and his check engine light came on. They diagnosed the problem, at the dealer, to be an ignition coil but they said they didn't know which one it was. Is there a code for each individual coil and would that code tell you which it is?
Where would be the best and cheapest place to buy one? I know changing them is a breeze and resetting the code isn't hard too. I'm just trying to help my co-worker out a little and save him a few bucks. Thanks.
My question is: my co-worker has a '99 Se also and his check engine light came on. They diagnosed the problem, at the dealer, to be an ignition coil but they said they didn't know which one it was. Is there a code for each individual coil and would that code tell you which it is?
Where would be the best and cheapest place to buy one? I know changing them is a breeze and resetting the code isn't hard too. I'm just trying to help my co-worker out a little and save him a few bucks. Thanks.
Originally posted by tke148
...They diagnosed the problem, at the dealer, to be an ignition coil but they said they didn't know which one it was. Is there a code for each individual coil and would that code tell you which it is?
...Where would be the best and cheapest place to buy one?
...They diagnosed the problem, at the dealer, to be an ignition coil but they said they didn't know which one it was. Is there a code for each individual coil and would that code tell you which it is?
...Where would be the best and cheapest place to buy one?
Procedure for MIL 'ON' with DTC P1320 Symptom
1. Check using CONSULT-II to confirm DTC P1320 (Ignition Signal Primary) is stored in the ECM.
NOTE: Single or multiple cylinder misfire codes (P0300 - P0306) may be stored in the ECM with DTC P1320.
2. Check the ECCS wiring harness for a broken or damaged wire...
tke148,
According to the 2000 Nissan DTC chart, P1320 is for any/all repeated or permanent coil(s) fault. No help there even with CEL.
Also, the Generic P0300 - P0306 "Cylinder Misfiring" codes from the 1999 chart have been replaced with a more specific fault: "Multiple or Single INJECTOR Misfiring" at least for 5th gen. Even if that code appeared for a particular cylinder, I doubt the injector would be replaced before the ignition coil.
So far I haven't seen any Nissan codes pinpointing a bad coil. What's left for your friend is good old elbow grease and what I posted above. Closely inspect each spark plug. Replace one coil and test drive.
Try www.courtesyparts.com or any out-of-state (no sales tax) dealer offering 20-25% disc. Verify shipping and handling charges. Back in Feb'02 I spent total $296.00 for all coils and plugs shipped ground. Calling in the order is faster.
I also had misfiring due to coils. The MIL never came on, nor were there any codes when the dealership attempt to pull them off the computer. There is a Nissan TSB that states such a situation. That would explain why the coils were backordered for an entire month. They replaced all 6 coils under warranty.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.
Originally posted by MaximaKev
I also had misfiring due to coils. The MIL never came on, nor were there any codes when the dealership attempt to pull them off the computer. There is a Nissan TSB that states such a situation. That would explain why the coils were backordered for an entire month. They replaced all 6 coils under warranty.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.
I also had misfiring due to coils. The MIL never came on, nor were there any codes when the dealership attempt to pull them off the computer. There is a Nissan TSB that states such a situation. That would explain why the coils were backordered for an entire month. They replaced all 6 coils under warranty.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.
Originally posted by MaximaKev
I also had misfiring due to coils. The MIL never came on, nor were there any codes when the dealership attempt to pull them off the computer. There is a Nissan TSB that states such a situation. That would explain why the coils were backordered for an entire month. They replaced all 6 coils under warranty.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.
I also had misfiring due to coils. The MIL never came on, nor were there any codes when the dealership attempt to pull them off the computer. There is a Nissan TSB that states such a situation. That would explain why the coils were backordered for an entire month. They replaced all 6 coils under warranty.
Typically my engine would misfire at low rpm when the engine was cold. I really don't even know if I would say it was a misfire, almost like I had crappy gas...I also noticed that it was much, much worse with my JWT intake than with the stock box.

Just awful...
I had it diagnosed and documented at about 34K but did not receive parts until about 39k if I remember right...it was covered under warranty.
Stick your guns if the dealership is giving you problems. The main problem for me was that they could not duplicate the problem (neither could I when I took it in, of course!) and that no codes were showing up. My local dealership was totally unaware of any problem, but a really good dealership I know in Atlanta knew exactly what I was talking about and actually printed out the TSB for me to show my local dealership.
Stick your guns if the dealership is giving you problems. The main problem for me was that they could not duplicate the problem (neither could I when I took it in, of course!) and that no codes were showing up. My local dealership was totally unaware of any problem, but a really good dealership I know in Atlanta knew exactly what I was talking about and actually printed out the TSB for me to show my local dealership.
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