Going from PS to B&M STS
Originally posted by 2K2DEMAX
Now I understand why you said break-in, you're using the B&M **** (saw your pic). As per my first post in this thread, I didn't like the B&M **** (got hot and caused missed shifts due to the shape and the material used for the **** (slippery) - couldn't grip it properly and would cause my hand to slip off the **** during shifts). Once I put the AE **** on, all of those issues went away. So, my overwhelming vote is for the AE ****.
Now I understand why you said break-in, you're using the B&M **** (saw your pic). As per my first post in this thread, I didn't like the B&M **** (got hot and caused missed shifts due to the shape and the material used for the **** (slippery) - couldn't grip it properly and would cause my hand to slip off the **** during shifts). Once I put the AE **** on, all of those issues went away. So, my overwhelming vote is for the AE ****.

I'm waiting for my gen2 Cattman Y-pipe to come in before I do the install so I can do it all at once. I'll do the comparo at that point.
Originally posted by MichaelAE
Oh come on, tell the truth. You saw him say "break it in" and you thought I might lose all faith in you...nice save.
I'm waiting for my gen2 Cattman Y-pipe to come in before I do the install so I can do it all at once. I'll do the comparo at that point.
Oh come on, tell the truth. You saw him say "break it in" and you thought I might lose all faith in you...nice save.

I'm waiting for my gen2 Cattman Y-pipe to come in before I do the install so I can do it all at once. I'll do the comparo at that point.
Originally posted by Eenis
there was another. the o ring that goes in tne ****, snap ring thing that you need the snap ring tool for, and a third lil one, maybe about a half inch in diameter.
there was another. the o ring that goes in tne ****, snap ring thing that you need the snap ring tool for, and a third lil one, maybe about a half inch in diameter.
1) rubber ring for the shift **** cap
2) A clip for the assembly (the snap ring)
3) a clip that secures the shift rod. (the one you're referring to)
If you look at the shift rod, there is a groove about mid way down the rod. After you bolt up the rod to the shift linkage and bolt down the B&M assembly to the car (2 bolts) you should then slide this little clip ring over the shift rod all the way down to the assembly where it should fit into the little groove. This will secure the rod so that it will not have any vertical movement.
Hope this helps.
I hate to resurrect an older thread, but for those of you who have the B&M installed, how does it sit when it is in neutral? Meaning does it sit far forward, or closer to center? Also now that most of you have had them on for a while, what is your overall opinion? I need to replace my pacesetter and I don't feel like paying 250 for the stillen shifter.
MichaelAE - Do you have any pics of the shifter installed with the 2k2 shift surround?
MichaelAE - Do you have any pics of the shifter installed with the 2k2 shift surround?
I was just about to buy the pacesetter sts till I started searching and reading this. I may go with the B&M so I don't have to shave or bend things to get it to work correctly. Keep us posted on the B&M and any problems you have ran across.
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