gas peadl block thingy
Re: gas peadl block thingy
Originally posted by ColdSHO
whats the deal with that little block under the gas pedal, does removing that do anything, never saw anything about it on any other posts.
whats the deal with that little block under the gas pedal, does removing that do anything, never saw anything about it on any other posts.
Removing the block will allow you to over-extend the throtle, allowing you to post a "My car got stuck at full-throttle and I **** my pants" post.
Take the time you would have taken to cut the block and wax your car. More rewards, guaranteed.
Take the time you would have taken to cut the block and wax your car. More rewards, guaranteed.
Originally posted by bert
Removing the block will allow you to over-extend the throtle, allowing you to post a "My car got stuck at full-throttle and I **** my pants" post.
Take the time you would have taken to cut the block and wax your car. More rewards, guaranteed.
Removing the block will allow you to over-extend the throtle, allowing you to post a "My car got stuck at full-throttle and I **** my pants" post.
Take the time you would have taken to cut the block and wax your car. More rewards, guaranteed.
Originally posted by slickrick
id be terrified if that happened.
id be terrified if that happened.
i'm suprised how calm i was when handling the situation
but then again i've lost by brakes twice on my other cars once on the highway too
god i love rusty beater gms
If you are in a 2k2 at least...
and you remove that block, the first time you WOT you'll get a SES light. The reason the block is there is to limit the voltage sent to the throttle position sensor. If it goes above a certain voltage, the car goes into a limp mode and you have to disconnect the battery to clear it.
It is so sensitive that They did the recall on mine and when I was running at the Rock, I guess I was puching too hard on the pedal (you get the full voltage at 3/4 pedal anyway) and it shut down. I took it to the dealer and they basically put a washer under the stop to make sure it deliver's the correct amount of voltage.
In other words, don't remove it...
It is so sensitive that They did the recall on mine and when I was running at the Rock, I guess I was puching too hard on the pedal (you get the full voltage at 3/4 pedal anyway) and it shut down. I took it to the dealer and they basically put a washer under the stop to make sure it deliver's the correct amount of voltage.
In other words, don't remove it...
Re: If you are in a 2k2 at least...
Originally posted by Shaydz
and you remove that block, the first time you WOT you'll get a SES light. The reason the block is there is to limit the voltage sent to the throttle position sensor. If it goes above a certain voltage, the car goes into a limp mode and you have to disconnect the battery to clear it.
It is so sensitive that They did the recall on mine and when I was running at the Rock, I guess I was puching too hard on the pedal (you get the full voltage at 3/4 pedal anyway) and it shut down. I took it to the dealer and they basically put a washer under the stop to make sure it deliver's the correct amount of voltage.
In other words, don't remove it...
and you remove that block, the first time you WOT you'll get a SES light. The reason the block is there is to limit the voltage sent to the throttle position sensor. If it goes above a certain voltage, the car goes into a limp mode and you have to disconnect the battery to clear it.
It is so sensitive that They did the recall on mine and when I was running at the Rock, I guess I was puching too hard on the pedal (you get the full voltage at 3/4 pedal anyway) and it shut down. I took it to the dealer and they basically put a washer under the stop to make sure it deliver's the correct amount of voltage.
In other words, don't remove it...
Re: Re: If you are in a 2k2 at least...
Originally posted by slickrick
so at 3/4 throttle your actually getting wot power basically?
so at 3/4 throttle your actually getting wot power basically?
It even states that if the voltage is still too high to put a washer under the stop to minimize the max (pun) travel in the pedal. I think that WOT occurs at the 3/4 mark of the voltage. So if at 3/4 you are sending 3.15 v and that is what the throttle position sensor determines as WOT but you continue pressing to the stop and it gets 3.9v, the sensor throws a SEL. Inother words anything after this 3.15v is not used by the ECU to increase fuel/air mixtures. BUT over 3.85 threatens to burn out the Throttle Position Sensor and it protects itself by shutting down. When a SEL is thrown, you will be at 1K RPM no amount of pressing the pedal will change that until you clear it. Luckily, it is one of the few codes that can be reset by unhooking the battery for a while in the 2K2. The dealer can still access it and determine cause but at least you can drive and there is no light.
This is to the best of my knowledge. If anyone else has more info, everyone would appreciate it.
Re: Re: Re: If you are in a 2k2 at least...
Originally posted by Shaydz
According to the TSB, yes. The voltage is not supposed to go higher than a particular range. it's like 3.85 volt max or something (I will use numbers here as an example but they are probably not the correct numbers). I have the particulars at home in hardcopy. I'll look at it tonight.
It even states that if the voltage is still too high to put a washer under the stop to minimize the max (pun) travel in the pedal. I think that WOT occurs at the 3/4 mark of the voltage. So if at 3/4 you are sending 3.15 v and that is what the throttle position sensor determines as WOT but you continue pressing to the stop and it gets 3.9v, the sensor throws a SEL. Inother words anything after this 3.15v is not used by the ECU to increase fuel/air mixtures. BUT over 3.85 threatens to burn out the Throttle Position Sensor and it protects itself by shutting down. When a SEL is thrown, you will be at 1K RPM no amount of pressing the pedal will change that until you clear it. Luckily, it is one of the few codes that can be reset by unhooking the battery for a while in the 2K2. The dealer can still access it and determine cause but at least you can drive and there is no light.
This is to the best of my knowledge. If anyone else has more info, everyone would appreciate it.
According to the TSB, yes. The voltage is not supposed to go higher than a particular range. it's like 3.85 volt max or something (I will use numbers here as an example but they are probably not the correct numbers). I have the particulars at home in hardcopy. I'll look at it tonight.
It even states that if the voltage is still too high to put a washer under the stop to minimize the max (pun) travel in the pedal. I think that WOT occurs at the 3/4 mark of the voltage. So if at 3/4 you are sending 3.15 v and that is what the throttle position sensor determines as WOT but you continue pressing to the stop and it gets 3.9v, the sensor throws a SEL. Inother words anything after this 3.15v is not used by the ECU to increase fuel/air mixtures. BUT over 3.85 threatens to burn out the Throttle Position Sensor and it protects itself by shutting down. When a SEL is thrown, you will be at 1K RPM no amount of pressing the pedal will change that until you clear it. Luckily, it is one of the few codes that can be reset by unhooking the battery for a while in the 2K2. The dealer can still access it and determine cause but at least you can drive and there is no light.
This is to the best of my knowledge. If anyone else has more info, everyone would appreciate it.
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