Polk EX3500 tweeters for $65/pair!
Originally posted by jimz02max
I was told that if I just replace the tweet that it wouldn't make any difference. You need the cross over also. Can someone help me here, because I really want these tweets if that isn't true.
I was told that if I just replace the tweet that it wouldn't make any difference. You need the cross over also. Can someone help me here, because I really want these tweets if that isn't true.
Originally posted by TimW
[B]well, I did the swap with some Polk 3500 tweeters. I have some observations.
First, the old Clarions are marked 4 ohm, but they test out at 5.6 or so (no, I didnt test with the cap
) The new Polks are about 4.4. As expected they take alittle more power than the stock tweeter. In parallel like this, the lower ohm speaker tends to get more juice. So, you can deduce this may take a small amount of power away from the door speaker. However, the crossover is much lower on the new tweeters (4K@12db-polk vs 7K@6db-clarion), so it actually evens out nicely.
I turned on the stereo with only one side done to compare. It was rather amazing.. the bose side was blaring and flat, the polk side was bright and accurate. I mean, side by side, it will blow you away how flat and weak the high end really is on the stock tweet.
I grabbed some favs and gave them a spin. I noticed that in songs with reverb and acoustics, you couldnt even hear it on the stock side, whereas it was clearly audible on the polk side. Didnt really matter what I listened to, ALOT more music is brought out. You might notice the staging isnt dead on.. you may want to use the directional covers (not shown in pics). But you will be able to actually hear music to STAGE for a change!
[B]well, I did the swap with some Polk 3500 tweeters. I have some observations.
First, the old Clarions are marked 4 ohm, but they test out at 5.6 or so (no, I didnt test with the cap
) The new Polks are about 4.4. As expected they take alittle more power than the stock tweeter. In parallel like this, the lower ohm speaker tends to get more juice. So, you can deduce this may take a small amount of power away from the door speaker. However, the crossover is much lower on the new tweeters (4K@12db-polk vs 7K@6db-clarion), so it actually evens out nicely. I turned on the stereo with only one side done to compare. It was rather amazing.. the bose side was blaring and flat, the polk side was bright and accurate. I mean, side by side, it will blow you away how flat and weak the high end really is on the stock tweet.
I grabbed some favs and gave them a spin. I noticed that in songs with reverb and acoustics, you couldnt even hear it on the stock side, whereas it was clearly audible on the polk side. Didnt really matter what I listened to, ALOT more music is brought out. You might notice the staging isnt dead on.. you may want to use the directional covers (not shown in pics). But you will be able to actually hear music to STAGE for a change!
Originally posted by jimz02max
So does that mean I can just swap out the the tweeters, or is there any other moding I need to do?
So does that mean I can just swap out the the tweeters, or is there any other moding I need to do?
Originally posted by IceY2K1
I reordered and received them overnight/next day.
$65/PAIR SHIPPED!
Now I got to install them.
TimW's Install Thread/Pics:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=Polk+EX3500
I reordered and received them overnight/next day.
$65/PAIR SHIPPED!
Now I got to install them.
TimW's Install Thread/Pics:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=Polk+EX3500
I am also in the camp that the Bose system in my 2000 SE has no high end or imaging. I have spoken to several install shops, of course getting contrary info. The line almost EVERYONE told me was that the 2000+ Bose system has a 1 ohm resistance, making them incompatable with ANY aftermarket system. From all of your input, it appears that (as usual!) the info I have been told is wrong.
Questions:
1. Is there any basis for incompatability of the tweets in particular with Bose?
2. Provided #1 is cool, do I neet to install a cross-over to get decent sound from these polk tweets, for example?
3. If cross-over is needed, will they fit in the area of the pillars or do I need to do radical surgery to pull the head unit and slap 'um up in the bowels of the dash? I am fine with pulling apart the pillars for a direct tweet replacement, but don't have all day to pull apart the dash.
Lastly,I got an offer from a reputable shop for MB Quartz Reference Series RSD216, brand new in factory box, 2002 year. The price INSTALLED they quoted was $260. They did say that they would need to put a line volt reducer out of the Bose amp, into my already existing 50wattx2 United Acoustic amp. They wanted $60 bucks to install this unit, wire cost extra. Is this a good deal? decent speakers?
Or just go with the Polks...
Thanks in advance for your input...
OPTIONS:
Questions:
1. Is there any basis for incompatability of the tweets in particular with Bose?
2. Provided #1 is cool, do I neet to install a cross-over to get decent sound from these polk tweets, for example?
3. If cross-over is needed, will they fit in the area of the pillars or do I need to do radical surgery to pull the head unit and slap 'um up in the bowels of the dash? I am fine with pulling apart the pillars for a direct tweet replacement, but don't have all day to pull apart the dash.
Lastly,I got an offer from a reputable shop for MB Quartz Reference Series RSD216, brand new in factory box, 2002 year. The price INSTALLED they quoted was $260. They did say that they would need to put a line volt reducer out of the Bose amp, into my already existing 50wattx2 United Acoustic amp. They wanted $60 bucks to install this unit, wire cost extra. Is this a good deal? decent speakers?
Or just go with the Polks...
Thanks in advance for your input...
OPTIONS:
I am also in the camp that the Bose system in my 2000 SE has no high end or imaging. I have spoken to several install shops, of course getting contrary info. The line almost EVERYONE told me was that the 2000+ Bose system has a 1 ohm resistance, making them incompatable with ANY aftermarket system. From all of your input, it appears that (as usual!) the info I have been told is wrong.
Questions:
1. Is there any basis for incompatability of the tweets in particular with Bose?
2. Provided #1 is cool, do I neet to install a cross-over to get decent sound from these polk tweets, for example?
3. If cross-over is needed, will they fit in the area of the pillars or do I need to do radical surgery to pull the head unit and slap 'um up in the bowels of the dash? I am fine with pulling apart the pillars for a direct tweet replacement, but don't have all day to pull apart the dash.
Lastly,I got an offer from a reputable shop for MB Quartz Reference Series RSD216, brand new in factory box, 2002 year. The price INSTALLED they quoted was $260. They did say that they would need to put a line volt reducer out of the Bose amp, into my already existing 50wattx2 United Acoustic amp. They wanted $60 bucks to install this unit, wire cost extra. Is this a good deal? decent speakers?
Or just go with the Polks...
Thanks in advance for your input...
Questions:
1. Is there any basis for incompatability of the tweets in particular with Bose?
2. Provided #1 is cool, do I neet to install a cross-over to get decent sound from these polk tweets, for example?
3. If cross-over is needed, will they fit in the area of the pillars or do I need to do radical surgery to pull the head unit and slap 'um up in the bowels of the dash? I am fine with pulling apart the pillars for a direct tweet replacement, but don't have all day to pull apart the dash.
Lastly,I got an offer from a reputable shop for MB Quartz Reference Series RSD216, brand new in factory box, 2002 year. The price INSTALLED they quoted was $260. They did say that they would need to put a line volt reducer out of the Bose amp, into my already existing 50wattx2 United Acoustic amp. They wanted $60 bucks to install this unit, wire cost extra. Is this a good deal? decent speakers?
Or just go with the Polks...
Thanks in advance for your input...
you shop was not wrong.. the amp and door speakers are 1 ohm. neither can be swapped to aftermarket w/o doing both.. However, it was found that the tweeter in the a-pillar was a regular 4 ohm tweeter. The reason for this was most likely cost.. but also, adding the 4 ohm tweeter in parallel with the 1 ohm door speaker doesnt put too much of a load on the stock amp.
So, their shortcut and cost savings basically means you can get alot of highend back simply by swapping in the best tweeter you can find that will fit.
If you are really concerned about messing something up, have a local shop pop the a-piller and inspect the tweeter.. they will find a cheap sub-$50 variety 4 ohm driver in there..
So, their shortcut and cost savings basically means you can get alot of highend back simply by swapping in the best tweeter you can find that will fit.
If you are really concerned about messing something up, have a local shop pop the a-piller and inspect the tweeter.. they will find a cheap sub-$50 variety 4 ohm driver in there..
ok.. since you begged I got the digital caliper out.. the stock tweeter housing is 1" dia. and .5" thick. So in theory, about any tweeter would fit, *however* the key is finding one that either comes out of the housing so you can mount the raw tweeter -or- has a small enough housing to fit. I dont know the measurement of the area behind the piller, but I got a huge polk to fit back there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
95naSTA
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
4
Sep 21, 2015 06:50 PM
