Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

I spent an entire day gutting out the rear of my car. I finally noticed that the right rear strut was moving everytime that I hit a bump. Each movement was associated with the noise that I had been hearing. So I called JIC and they told me to tighten the nut at the top of the strut down with an impact gun. I did this and it didn't work. So they told me to pull them off and ship them back. Apparently it was something that was not done correctly during the assembly of the coilover. I pulled the rears today and put the stocks back on. I was just curious if this has happened to anybody else, and how long does it take to get them back because I can't wait to enjoy the JIC ride with no noise, that sh*t about drove me crazy.

redmaxpa007

iTrader: (21)

did you get them back yet?

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

Nope not yet....still waiting

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Did you check the dampening/rebound before putting it/them on? JIC shipped out a bad strut to Turbo95Max... a rear strut didn't rebound.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

How hard was the install?

Any problems?

MaxSE03

iTrader: (1)

It's been almost a month and your still waiting? I would be

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Easy.

No.

But that's all relative.

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

Yes the install was easy, and NO I didn't check the rebound. The car rode and handled fine, it just seemed like the pillow ball was moving around in the housing. And it was making all sorts of damn noise. My car looks goofy as hell, the front has about 1" wheel gap and the rear is like 2.5"-3"

MaxSE03

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a pic

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

nope sorry i am holding out on pics until i can get her sittin right

HitManSE

iTrader: (1)

Thats easy if u have a spring compressor Kev. I dont know how some people here change it out w/o a spring compressor, otherwise it would be a PIA. The install however is pretty much straight 4ward. Only thing I dont really like is dismanteling part of the rear seat to get to the strut mounts, what is it like 30 something 12mm bolts

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Why would you need a spring compressor for installing the JICs? The springs are not under compression...... even the stock suspension isn't under too much compression.

No need to dismantle the rear seats to get to the bolts.

HitManSE

iTrader: (1)

I said to get to the rear strut mounts, not the bolts. U know what I meant Kev im sure uve done the suspension several times. I was refering to removing the bolts behind the rear seat to get to the strut mount bolts. Also I have never tried to remove spring w/o a compressor so I wouldnt know how much pressure they would be under. I just have the compressor so I use it, Its just faster 4 me. Like I said ive never done springs w/o a compressor cuz I havnt had to.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

OK, you just confused me. You don't need to take the seats out to get to the rear strut mount nuts. Swivel socket does wonders.

There's no need to remove the stock springs because you're replacing the whole assembly (springs/struts) with the JIC's... so there's no need to use a spring compressor.


Turn the strut body so that you have a few threads left on the strut to the strut body. Next, lower the spring perch all the way. Finally, push down on the strut rod (via strut mount) and watch it come back up. If it doesn't, you've been screwed by JIC. Hehehe

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

I found on my install (and subsequent uninstall) that you can get away with removing the front struts w/o a spring compressor, but you can get stuck in the situation where once you pop out the knuckle bolts, the strut will expand into the axle and it may be difficult to get it out b/c the control arms just don't want to move down easily. As for putting them in, I had a dam difficult time putting the passenger side one in even with a spring compressor. There was just very little room to get the thing on properly. This was probably due to the fact that the one I used was a rental from Pep Boys, who knows. I also had to leverage the control arm down a bit to get the strut to line up right. That was a PITA. The driver's side was much easier. More room to put the spring compressor on and the control arm was more easily moved away. I'm not sure, but I think there is more wheel well space on the driver's side since the engine is what probably takes up some on the passenger's side. That would at least explain why it was easier on the driver's side. As for installing the JIC, there is no need for a compressor as they just slip right in very easily and if they don't just adjust their height, though I wouldn't think you would have to.

Kev is right about not having to remove the rear seat for those upper mounts. I just used a swivel socket while laying in my trunck to get at them. A little uncomfortable, but not very difficult.

BTW, Bulldawg I hope things work out for on the JICs. They are a very nice product, just not for me. Oh well. You would think for as much as they are that JIC would be a little quicker with getting you a working pair for the rear.

Chinkzilla

if you don't mind me asking where did you guys get your jics and how much did you pay? I think my wallet says it's time.

HitManSE

iTrader: (1)

My bad, and about the swivel socket....I destroyed my 14mm swivel socket a few weeks ago and havnt gotten around to getting another 1 I didnt know that the JIC came with with the spring already mounted on the strut. Btw how does it ride (comfort wise) compared to ur old setup. Thanks

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Ride quality is more or less the same, but I have yet to bottom out on all the huge bumps/dips that I usually bottom out on with the GC's. The car feels stock while going over those bumps/dips. Simply amazing...

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

You say that ride quality is the same ......Mine seems to be a lot more bouncy than it used to be, and also I can tell when I hit abump. Pretty rough in my opinion

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

You say that ride quality is the same ......Mine seems to be a lot more bouncy than it used to be, and also I can tell when I hit abump. I get a pretty solid thud now when I hit a bump. Pretty rough in my opinion, also I suspect the suspension is making my CD player skip on certain roads. I told nissan this and the service tech said that he found a short in my CD player. and they ordered me a new one.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Ride quality is the same as the GC's, not stock... sorry for the confusion. Bouncy is not good. What is your setting again? I have mine at 10 clicks from soft.

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

Well...my judgement is a little impaired because i have the stocks on the rear....so of course it will bounce. But when I HAD the whole set up on, I had fronts at 2 and the rears at 7.

Kev
are you saying that you don't have any noise at all from the JIC's. cuz I get some weird noises when hitting a series of large bumps (crappy roads). lots of thuds and such....anyone else? That is just from the front, hopefully the rears will be quiet now. I can also feel the road a lot better, cracks and slope of the road. is that normal?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

2 in front sounds a bit too soft. Have you tried stiffening the fronts? From the settings you told us, the front of the car will bounce while the back will not (as much). The fronts will need to be stiffer since the front portion of the car is heavier.

Nope, no weird noises at all..... not even going over large bumps or dips.

Hehehehe.... you'll feel every road imperfection.

SVTTODAMAX

You need the rear to be a bit stiffer because the car is fwd. It already compensates for the weight in the front with the higher spring rate in the front and larger pistons. For every five clicks in the rear two clicks in the front for a 50/50 weight ratio at breaking and cornering. Call Zeal motorsports and im sure they will confirm this. Also note I have had mine on since December and I auto-x my car two times a month and I have no problems at all. No noises or anything abnormal.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Hmmmm..... higher spring rates will cause you to bounce more if you don't have the correct dampening/rebound. I've sat in a car with blown struts before (no dampening) and the car bounced like a ball.

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I just don't know what normal is for these things. I mean it is louder than stock correct, cuz mine sure is. The only time i get a noise in the front, is when i go over something were the wheel drops down, like a sunken manhole. but other than that I don't notice anything too much out of order.

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to agree with Kev on this. I had mine set at 2/10 and the front did bounce quite a bit, my major gripe along with ride quality degradation. It may be worth noting that the adjustments on the front are smaller than the adjustments for the rear, which I found out when I pulled the springs off and pushed down on them all the way. At the lowest setting, they both rebounded about the same. At the highest setting, the rears were barely rebounding at all, actually took a few minutes to extend all the way, whereas the fronts rebounded much more quickly. I tried a point or to in between which confirms this behavior existed at all dampening levels, not just the endpoints. To me, it seems that JIC already has the dampening for the rear set higher given equal front/rear dampening levels. Whether that difference is enough for the best possible handling, I don't know. This may be why SVTTODAMAX was told by JIC to set the rear dampening higher than front. In any case, this is just the info I've compiled, so take it for what its worth.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Hmmmmm...... sounds like the spring is fully extended and is able to move around between the perch/mount. Is the spring able to move when you have the car jacked up?

Bulldawg

iTrader: (1)

I am assuming that you are talking about the pre-load. After my springs "settled" i tightend the lower perch up to where it was snug against the spring. I didn't use excessive force to do so, probable .5-1 turn. If i tug really hard on the spring, it will move but not by itself.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Yes, I was talking about pre-load, but I wasn't sure if you knew the term.

I gave the perch a few more full turns after the spring was loaded so it now takes a great amount of force to move the spring.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

So, what portion of a G are you pulling with your fancy RSM w/G-sensor gizmo?

Got any 60-0 and 100-0 stops on your BBK with the G-Tech Pro?

You have all the goodies everyone dreams about, but NO results for data/evidence.

Promises, promises...

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

I never promised posting G's or doing XXX-0 stops.

I don't remember what the G was for the GC, but I haven't taken a corner hard with the JIC's yet.

The RSM can do -G for braking.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Sure about that? Unless you don't consider triple X speeds as "high speeds".
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Source: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=Brembo

Where is GC?

I don't have a RSM to compare with, but we both have a G-Tech Pro! Speaking of G-Tech Pro, how about some 1/4-mile G-Tech runs at 10psi? The ET would be INTERESTING!!!