Cattman (Progress) RSB Write-up

My Name is Olin Coles (olincoles@hotmail.com) and I am the author of this technical write-up. This installation was performed on a 2003 Maxima SE on 11/25/02. Disclaimer: You are responsible for everything you do, so use this guide at your own risk. Don’t even think of blaming me!

Let me first warn that I used two different digital cameras. One is an Intel without flash, and the other is my Olympus D-460 Zoom. Obviously, the Olympus takes much better pictures, but the Intel snaps them out quickly. Needless to say, I was not very pleased with the overall pics after I found so many poor ones. Too bad I'm not going to tear it all down to show you all over again.

This rear sway bar, or RSB, is designed and manufactured by Progress, the same people who design and manufacture lowering springs for our cars, with the partnership of Cattman Performance to distribute them. Here are some pics of the package and contents:

The UPS label on the box reads 20 lbs.
http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Box.jpg

The product label is from Progress:
http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Label.jpg

This is everything you get in the package:
http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Contents.jpg

Here is a pic of the largest of four surface scratches in the powder coat: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Damaged.jpg

Step #1
Properly position tire blocks in front of and behind the front tires. Safety always comes first! If you are using the stock wheels and tires, you may need to remove them. Loosen (not remove) the lug nuts from the rear tires using a 21mm deep socket. Lift the rear of the car (I used a floor jack on the center of the rear axle) until the tires leave the ground. Remove the lug nuts and wheels. Properly position jack stands as pictured here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/U_Position.jpg

Step #2
Apply the supplied grease to the inside (inner bore) of the bushing. The bushings come out of their metal straps, and have a split in them. Use this split to wrap the bushing around the bar instead of sliding the bushing across the bar, losing all your grease. See here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Imag...hing_Crack.jpg

Step #3
Hang the supplied U-bolts right beside the reinforcement sleeve on each side upper rear axle, as pictured here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/U_Position

Step #4
Finger-tighten the U-bolts to the back end of the bar, as shown here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/First_Step.jpg

Step #5
You will notice that on both sides of the sway arms there are brake and hose lines running along the sides. Here is the before pic: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Swayarm1.jpg

The saddle piece will only fit after you un-bolt this part from the sway arm: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Swayarm2.jpg

Note that you may need to slightly bend the hose clamp after you have installed the saddle piece for it to all fit. This is what it should look like when finished: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Swayarm3.jpg

Step #6
Bolt the sway arm assemblies, and replace the hose clamp retaining bolt. Tighten both of the side assemblies down with 13mm deep and 13mm shallow sockets, as shown here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Swayarm4.jpg
Repeat the process on both sides, as they are identical: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Swayarm5.jpg

Step #7
After you have tightened the side assemblies, finish the install by tightening the rear assemblies, shown here: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Lost_Lift.jpg
*Note that you will forever after lose your ability to lift from the rear axle, as the RSB is in the way. I used the under-body points to re-lift the car from the jack stands. Here it is all finished: http://webpages.charter.net/pci/Images/Finished.jpg

Step #8
Replace the tires and lug nuts. Drive for at least one day, and then re-torque the lug nuts and all of the RSB linkage. Don't skip this step, because everything DID loosen on me after a day. Also, wipe down all exposed grease from the bushings, or it quickly collects dirt.

In review, the parts supplied were enough to complete the install. There was some minor paint damage to the bar, but since nobody can see it, I'm not too concerned. The instructions consisted of a single two-sided sheet of paper. On one side is a very cheap diagram, and on the other is the parts list, and VERY LITTLE instruction. Novices will really benefit from my review here, so feel free to print it out.

Fitment appears acceptable. I was not totally thrilled with the bulky saddle pieces, since they could be slightly smaller and not come so close to the OEM tires sidewall. The saddles also barely fit between the two hose clamp harnesses. They are strong and bullet-proof though.

The car drives noticeably better now. It added 20 lbs to the total weight of the car, but it also made it possible to safely negotiate turns at a higher speed. I can't say there was a night and day difference, but there was a noticeable one. I use this RSB in conjunction with a FSTB, and together they make a real difference.

 

Excellent write-up. This would be a nice addition to the How-tos if it's not there already. I wish the stillen RSB had extra brackets and had bushings to hold it. Oh well.

 

Olincoles, I would love to take this writeup and make a full page writeup with pics out of it like the ones Russ and I have done in the past. All I need is your permission and I will take your text and your pictures and host them on my server for you. Fully your credit, nothing of mine except the hosting of the server.

Let me know

Dixit

 

olincoles: Thanks for your detailed write up on the Cattman-PROGRESS RSB . Hopefully I'll recieve my rsb along with my titanium FSTB,KYB AGX's/PROGRESS Springs next week.

 

Woohoo! Thanks for the write-up!

I'll be getting this RSB by next Wednesday, and I plan to install it next weekend, so your writeup is very timely...and much appreciated.

 

Thanks for the compliments! You have my permission to use the text and pics as your own. I'm not sure any of the pics are worth asking for photo credit... I was more envolved with the project then the camera's. Let me know if there is anything you need!

 

Thanks, I will put a page together on this tonight.

Dixit

 

Sweet, this will definetly be a big help!

 

Thanks so much for the great write-up! It couldn't come at a better time since I just ordered a Progress bar directly through my work. I'm getting the bar at dealer cost too so I'll have some extra cash for a FSTB.

What are your thoughts on the powdercoat finish on the bar? Other than the minor scratches, how was the finish and what color is it? I'm thinking of getting the bar chromed or polished.

 

My bar came with damage to the powdercoat as well, there were quite a few scratched spots.

 

Hey Dixit:

Was wondering if the full-page writeup for this RSB is done ?

Let us know

Olincoles - thanks for the writeup

 

i just got my bar yesterday. flawless without a scratch. i don't really care though since it's a damn bar underneath the car....I'd rather have an ugly bar but $10 cheaper.....

 

Is this full-page write-up completed yet???

 

Excellent writeup ! Thanks ! I just ordered my Progress bar last week. Your write-up will be a big help.

Bob

 

Just finished my install, could not of done it without this write up. This should definitley be added to the how to section. Cattman's instructions are terrible, but the service is good. Bar feels very good and very solid, can definitley feel a difference when going through a hard turn.

 

Thanks for the write up (although I already did mine) but I had a question for you. When I installed my bar, I decided to put the mounts in closer to the rear by following these instructions:

Do you agree with this? I must admit, I like the bar but was not "blown away" like everyone else. I mean, it is great but I think the FSTB had as much of an effect on the handling.

What do you think?

 

I also feel like the FSTB did more for the handling then the RSB did. Placing the pivot point to far away from the end of the bar (past the halfway point) actually decreases it's effectiveness. The point of the bar is to counter act one sides' life by lifting the opposite side. Limiting the amount of movement in the bar by placing the pivot point closer to the bend then the end only limits the bars usefullness. Here's something to make it easier for you: Think of a floor jack (a jack with a lifting arm). The floor jack can lift efficiently if the item to be lifted is at the end of it are (where there is probably a cup), but try lifting something from the halfway point of the jacks lift arm (imagine there is a cup there too).

 

Hmmm...that's a good point. I noticed also that you had a BOMZ FSTB - I have the same. I wonder if our FSTB is better than the others? Maybe because I've got an SE? People constantly say that the FSTB does next to nothing and I feel that it improved my handling a "5" on a scale of 1-10. I noticed immediatly how it was much flatter in the corners at any speed.

I'm going to try to move the bar clamps one of these days to test your theory on my RSB.

Thanks!

 

the Stillen one doesn't need bushings, it's all done by the brackets. The Stillen one is also more adjustable fore/aft (less stiff/more stiff) Also directly bolted on is definitely still more secure and stiffer then urethane bushings. Urethane still give somewhat , though very little. Directly bolted on with bolts and aluminum brackets is far better IMO than urethane bushings to hold the bar up. Thicker is not always better, heavier.

 

The Stillen RSB isn't as good as the Progress RSB, IMO. Urethane bushings make all the difference in ride. Plus, the Progress RSB is thicker, and everyone knows thicker is better.

 

I don’t understand why everyone is saying that progress rsb is not adjustable. Can’t you just move the brackets closer to the axel? According to physics laws, it will increase the effort required to move the bar which means progress rsb can be adjusted.

 

I agree with you that it is adjustable.... I don't think anyone else has really disputed that... anyways, we had a discussion about that some time back, but I can't find the thread...

 

The Cattman (Progress) RSB is adjustable. However, the adjustment range is under 3", making for a small difference either way. The primary purpose of the rear sway bar is to prevent the body from swaying out of alignment with the body; so adjusting for less stiffness (moving bracket towards the pivot bushing) makes the part almost worthless. In the picture, I positioned the bracket nearly to the very end of the RSB, providing the most support.

Three years and 22,000 miles later: I still think the front strut tower brace has made the most dramatic improvment, but is only completed with a RSB.

 

It's the same as the Addco writeup which is already in the How-to section...

 

it says that it's a repost in the title... lol

 

When installing my bar and trying to figure what to do about the ABS wiring bracket, I noticed that the one screw hole is very elongated. In fact the hole is long enough that if you put a double bend in the bracket, it will clear the saddle and you can reinstall it with the original cap screws and it hold the wire out and away from the bar. Looks intentional and a lot better than a couple of the other solutions I've seen which involve tie strips, duct tape, or longer screws.

 

Great thread. There is currently a group buy from Cattman over at G20.net , I am sure that many there will find this write up useful.

Seems like the Cattman bar is the same as a Progress bar found elsewhere?

 

Yes Zoli, the Cattman bar is made by Progress and appears identical.

By the way, if anyone ever finds that my write needs a new host please let me know (by PM). I would be happy to host it from my new website http://benchmarkreviews.com/

 

Wow......bringing a thread back from the dead. That post by Zoli was more than a year ago.......but I guess since this is your thread so w/e

 

THANK GOD...Zoli Elo got his answer!!

 

Damn right. I'm looking through every cold thread. No question left unanswered.

 

Oh yeah.

Progress and Addco has been seen to list the bar as for the 2nd gen G20 at this point.

 

Holy #%@. Zoli, you've been regged here a year and you're still a newb? cmmon...

On another note, I received my Progress RSB late last week and I'm itching to install it, so bringing this thread back from the depths actually works out perfectly for me.

[[why oh WHY does my mechanic feel this job should cost $200 to do I'll never know ]]

 

Why would you pay for somebody to install it on your car in the first place? That would be the question.

 

I do not have a J30 Maxima any more. I bought the Maxima from a friend that went back to Japan as a favor to him - basically worked as a middle man for the sale after he left. Nevertheless, there is a lot of good R&D here that can be applied to other Nissan and Infiniti. The Shift_Fast DIY transmission mod is neat and something that I would not mind trying out on my P11 G20 daily driver.

$200 is way too much. The RSB should take like 15 minutes at he most...

 

I was going to see if i could have them put it on along with Trailing arm bushings at the same time. I live in an apartment complex where they're none too happy to have you wrench on cars in the parking lot, and I really could use a jack. .if i had a place to stick it when i was done, heh. My wife has this "let the pros handle it." mentality and has been pushing that approach

 

Wife > j00

 

oh, you think I let her win?

there's no way I'm forking out anywhere NEAR the amount I was quoted on either of these items; especially since I could buy the parts 2-3times over just in install labor. DIYFTMFW or; a buddy with a garage and accepts payments via budweiser.

 

There ya go, better way to pay somebody off.

 

paying someone else to install your mods FTL