help with springs
#1
help with springs
i just got my eibachs and i was hopeing to go to the shop to night to put them on is there any thing special i need to know about installing them and do i have to trim the bump stop? will i need an alinement and can i drive it right after i put the springs on?
thanks
Rob
thanks
Rob
#2
Re: help with springs
Originally posted by maxGTRvq35de
i just got my eibachs and i was hopeing to go to the shop to night to put them on is there any thing special i need to know about installing them and do i have to trim the bump stop? will i need an alinement and can i drive it right after i put the springs on?
thanks
Rob
i just got my eibachs and i was hopeing to go to the shop to night to put them on is there any thing special i need to know about installing them and do i have to trim the bump stop? will i need an alinement and can i drive it right after i put the springs on?
thanks
Rob
#3
Re: help with springs
Originally posted by maxGTRvq35de
i just got my eibachs and i was hopeing to go to the shop to night to put them on is there any thing special i need to know about installing them and do i have to trim the bump stop? will i need an alinement and can i drive it right after i put the springs on?
thanks
Rob
i just got my eibachs and i was hopeing to go to the shop to night to put them on is there any thing special i need to know about installing them and do i have to trim the bump stop? will i need an alinement and can i drive it right after i put the springs on?
thanks
Rob
#4
I'm curious why you -or a supposed tech- would
blatantly ignore the manufacturer's instructions. The Eibach instructions CLEARLY indicate to cut the front bump stops by 30 mm and the rear bump stops by 26 mm...why do you want to court disaster by ignoring this? They also say the car should indeed be aligned....why do you wish to ignore this too? Do you know something the Eibach engineers dont know or what?
Sorry if I sound harsh but it pizzes the heck out of me why folks just want to ignore the freaking instructions...is this a Macho thing or what? Dayaim!
Sorry if I sound harsh but it pizzes the heck out of me why folks just want to ignore the freaking instructions...is this a Macho thing or what? Dayaim!
#5
Re: I'm curious why you -or a supposed tech- would
Originally posted by Galo
blatantly ignore the manufacturer's instructions. The Eibach instructions CLEARLY indicate to cut the front bump stops by 30 mm and the rear bump stops by 26 mm...why do you want to court disaster by ignoring this? They also say the car should indeed be aligned....why do you wish to ignore this too? Do you know something the Eibach engineers dont know or what?
Sorry if I sound harsh but it pizzes the heck out of me why folks just want to ignore the freaking instructions...is this a Macho thing or what? Dayaim!
blatantly ignore the manufacturer's instructions. The Eibach instructions CLEARLY indicate to cut the front bump stops by 30 mm and the rear bump stops by 26 mm...why do you want to court disaster by ignoring this? They also say the car should indeed be aligned....why do you wish to ignore this too? Do you know something the Eibach engineers dont know or what?
Sorry if I sound harsh but it pizzes the heck out of me why folks just want to ignore the freaking instructions...is this a Macho thing or what? Dayaim!
#9
Nope. The bumpstops are what softly limits
the maximum compression of the strut as it moves upward when compressed by a large bump. When I say softly it's because it's really nothing more than a thick piece of rubber (or urethane in some cars) that prevents the harsh metal to metal banging if the shock were to reach it full travel and the bump stop did not exist.
The reason why it's important to trim a Bump stop on a lowered car is because as u lower car you have also effectively reduced suspension travel. Meaning, you have reduced the spacing between the strut at rest and the point within the range of the suspension travel where the bump stop begins to snub the strut's upward movement, but by trimming the BS you regain some of the suspension travel you lost by lowering the car and more suspension travel = better ride.
Lower a car without trimming a BS and most every medium bump will force the strut into the BS and make the ride really rough.
Capish?
The reason why it's important to trim a Bump stop on a lowered car is because as u lower car you have also effectively reduced suspension travel. Meaning, you have reduced the spacing between the strut at rest and the point within the range of the suspension travel where the bump stop begins to snub the strut's upward movement, but by trimming the BS you regain some of the suspension travel you lost by lowering the car and more suspension travel = better ride.
Lower a car without trimming a BS and most every medium bump will force the strut into the BS and make the ride really rough.
Capish?
#10
Re: Nope. The bumpstops are what softly limits
Originally posted by Galo
the maximum compression of the strut as it moves upward when compressed by a large bump. When I say softly it's because it's really nothing more than a thick piece of rubber (or urethane in some cars) that prevents the harsh metal to metal banging if the shock were to reach it full travel and the bump stop did not exist.
The reason why it's important to trim a Bump stop on a lowered car is because as u lower car you have also effectively reduced suspension travel. Meaning, you have reduced the spacing between the strut at rest and the point within the range of the suspension travel where the bump stop begins to snub the strut's upward movement, but by trimming the BS you regain some of the suspension travel you lost by lowering the car and more suspension travel = better ride.
Lower a car without trimming a BS and most every medium bump will force the strut into the BS and make the ride really rough.
Capish?
the maximum compression of the strut as it moves upward when compressed by a large bump. When I say softly it's because it's really nothing more than a thick piece of rubber (or urethane in some cars) that prevents the harsh metal to metal banging if the shock were to reach it full travel and the bump stop did not exist.
The reason why it's important to trim a Bump stop on a lowered car is because as u lower car you have also effectively reduced suspension travel. Meaning, you have reduced the spacing between the strut at rest and the point within the range of the suspension travel where the bump stop begins to snub the strut's upward movement, but by trimming the BS you regain some of the suspension travel you lost by lowering the car and more suspension travel = better ride.
Lower a car without trimming a BS and most every medium bump will force the strut into the BS and make the ride really rough.
Capish?
#11
Trimming the bump stops can conceivably allow excessive travel by the shocks/struts, thus causing failure. If you are not using aftermarket shocks/struts, I would not suggest trimming the bump stops at all. I've put over 20k on my Eibachs without trimming the bump stops and only large road transients will cause it to hit.
Unless an engineer can guarantee the shocks/struts will stay within spec with the bump stops trimmed, I'm leaving it as is ( at least until the AGX's are finally released ).
Unless an engineer can guarantee the shocks/struts will stay within spec with the bump stops trimmed, I'm leaving it as is ( at least until the AGX's are finally released ).
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MaxLvr21
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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10-17-2015 12:11 PM