Endless cycle of resurfacing or getting new rotors
03-16-2003, 12:03 PM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,329
I read this review of judder that said it is not from wrapping rotors, but from an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors. This would explain why some with different types of pads don't see the problem.
I bet when the rotors are hot and you have the pads depressed at a light with the pad just sitting on the hot rotor material will "burn" off the pad onto the rotor. Since this is in one place on the rotor, the rotor is now unbalanced because of the extra material leading to the judder.
I bet when the rotors are hot and you have the pads depressed at a light with the pad just sitting on the hot rotor material will "burn" off the pad onto the rotor. Since this is in one place on the rotor, the rotor is now unbalanced because of the extra material leading to the judder.
03-16-2003, 02:20 PM
#42
Originally posted by sascuderi
I read this review of judder that said it is not from wrapping rotors, but from an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors. This would explain why some with different types of pads don't see the problem.
I bet when the rotors are hot and you have the pads depressed at a light with the pad just sitting on the hot rotor material will "burn" off the pad onto the rotor. Since this is in one place on the rotor, the rotor is now unbalanced because of the extra material leading to the judder.
I read this review of judder that said it is not from wrapping rotors, but from an uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors. This would explain why some with different types of pads don't see the problem.
I bet when the rotors are hot and you have the pads depressed at a light with the pad just sitting on the hot rotor material will "burn" off the pad onto the rotor. Since this is in one place on the rotor, the rotor is now unbalanced because of the extra material leading to the judder.
03-19-2003, 08:04 AM
#43
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 131
rotors
Originally posted by GXE Spoiler
OEM Rotors Suck Period!
Maybe they have gotten better in the past year, but I doubt it. This was a common problem with the 5th gen Maxima's OEM brake rotors. My rotors warped within the first 15,000 miles and I know many people on this forum have had to get their OEM rotors resurfaced at least twice.
Earlier in this thread, someone said that you have to resurface aftermarket rotors just as much as the OEM rotors. This is not true.
I got Stillen cross-drilled rotors to replace my OEM rotors. I chose these because I can just swap it out with the OEM rotors. I put them on at 25K miles and I am at 55K now. I have ABSOLUTELY NO NEED for a rotor resurfacing.
I have Stillen aftermarket Xdrill rotors, 30K miles after install I still don't need a FAQ'n ReSurFACing!!!
If fact, that they should call it the Nissan OEM Brake Rotor ResurfaC'ing! You have to be ResurfaC'd EVERY 15,000 miles! And EVERY MILE AFTER 15,000 You feel more VIBRATION and have a GREATER NEED to be ResurfaC'd!
You guys can get whatever aftermarket rotor you want. But, if you want to stop the OEM Rotor Warp problem. Pay for a very good quality aftermarket rotor. Otherwise, have fun at your shop every 15-20K miles resurfacing your rotors. But don't waste your time and money if you want to get a cheap replacement rotor for your OEMs. It will cost you more and you still have to resurface because of the cheap quality.
Know the saying, "If you do it right the first time..."
OEM Rotors Suck Period!
Maybe they have gotten better in the past year, but I doubt it. This was a common problem with the 5th gen Maxima's OEM brake rotors. My rotors warped within the first 15,000 miles and I know many people on this forum have had to get their OEM rotors resurfaced at least twice.
Earlier in this thread, someone said that you have to resurface aftermarket rotors just as much as the OEM rotors. This is not true.
I got Stillen cross-drilled rotors to replace my OEM rotors. I chose these because I can just swap it out with the OEM rotors. I put them on at 25K miles and I am at 55K now. I have ABSOLUTELY NO NEED for a rotor resurfacing.
I have Stillen aftermarket Xdrill rotors, 30K miles after install I still don't need a FAQ'n ReSurFACing!!!
If fact, that they should call it the Nissan OEM Brake Rotor ResurfaC'ing! You have to be ResurfaC'd EVERY 15,000 miles! And EVERY MILE AFTER 15,000 You feel more VIBRATION and have a GREATER NEED to be ResurfaC'd!
You guys can get whatever aftermarket rotor you want. But, if you want to stop the OEM Rotor Warp problem. Pay for a very good quality aftermarket rotor. Otherwise, have fun at your shop every 15-20K miles resurfacing your rotors. But don't waste your time and money if you want to get a cheap replacement rotor for your OEMs. It will cost you more and you still have to resurface because of the cheap quality.
Know the saying, "If you do it right the first time..."
03-19-2003, 08:24 AM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,151
I have said this numerous times.....It isnt the rotors....ITS THE PADS. I have had 2 sets of performancefrictions on my Maxima and havent had any warpage. The first set only lasted ~7k because I used them to road race and melted the pads, which caused them to crumble. I didn't have to resurface the rotors due to warpage though. Go buy yourself a set of theses pads for $32 at Autozone and you will be set. The OEM rotors aren't the problem!!!!
03-19-2003, 08:45 AM
#45
Someone who can search should search about the pad transfering to the rotors article. I used to have in my favorites but it's not there anymore. I believe it's probably a combination of the pads, the rotors, and overtorqued lugs. But what do i know. 
03-19-2003, 11:19 AM
#46
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally posted by zoggfatha
Someone who can search should search about the pad transfering to the rotors article...
Someone who can search should search about the pad transfering to the rotors article...
03-19-2003, 11:23 AM
#47
03-19-2003, 06:45 PM
#48
Originally posted by MAX2000JP
I have said this numerous times.....It isnt the rotors....ITS THE PADS. I have had 2 sets of performancefrictions on my Maxima and havent had any warpage. The first set only lasted ~7k because I used them to road race and melted the pads, which caused them to crumble. I didn't have to resurface the rotors due to warpage though. Go buy yourself a set of theses pads for $32 at Autozone and you will be set. The OEM rotors aren't the problem!!!!
I have said this numerous times.....It isnt the rotors....ITS THE PADS. I have had 2 sets of performancefrictions on my Maxima and havent had any warpage. The first set only lasted ~7k because I used them to road race and melted the pads, which caused them to crumble. I didn't have to resurface the rotors due to warpage though. Go buy yourself a set of theses pads for $32 at Autozone and you will be set. The OEM rotors aren't the problem!!!!
does anybody has any judder on stock rotors and aftermarket pads? What kind of pads? At what mileage if at all?
03-21-2003, 08:02 AM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 248
Re: rotors
Originally posted by David W.
Thanks for the info. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get Stillen XD rotors for the front only to try to stop the judder. I don't think that spending money resurfacing crummy rotors is worth it when I could just replace them and hopefully never have the problem again. Do you have any other suggestions? What pads? What was the cost of labor for the install? Have you noticed any major changes? Like better/smoother breaking, less pad life, ect? Did you do front and back? Thanks, -dave
Thanks for the info. I think I am going to bite the bullet and get Stillen XD rotors for the front only to try to stop the judder. I don't think that spending money resurfacing crummy rotors is worth it when I could just replace them and hopefully never have the problem again. Do you have any other suggestions? What pads? What was the cost of labor for the install? Have you noticed any major changes? Like better/smoother breaking, less pad life, ect? Did you do front and back? Thanks, -dave
I don't remember what I paid exactly for the install. I think it was around $500 total with labor. Did I notice any changes in performance???
Far better braking from 75+ mph. Smooth braking from 130. Also had that relatively smooth hard brake from 100 to 55 in under 3 seconds when I spotted a trooper! 
Its probably not as good as a big brake kit, but hey... all I want is a little better performance and to get rid of that annoying rotor warp problem. In the long run going with a better rotor/pad setup was a better value for me.
You do get less pad life with performance pads, but this is a minor tradeoff.
I did both front and rear. The fronts will get the most wear. In fact I am getting my fronts changed today. My rears still have about 50% pad left on them. I think it is pretty good after 25,000+ miles.
But if you do go with a X-drill setup, you'll notice more of a 'WHIR-ing" sound in your moderate to heavy braking. I think it is kinda cool, I get that high pitched sucking sound from the CAI, and a whiring sound from my brakes.
03-21-2003, 09:07 AM
#50
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 70
"When I'm in the Max, I hold the clutch in and let go of the brake pedal or switch into neutral EVERYTIME I stop. If I'm in any other car(autoMAGIC), I just bump the lever into neutral and let off the brake pedal. Then I wait for the light/traffic to change and bump it into drive. "
And you haven't been rear ended yet? Wow.
The problem is, as noted already, heat buildup. All you have to do is stop a bit short at the light and then roll forward a few feet so the pads cover a now coolerpart of the rotor. I've done this for years and have never had my brakes go out of true yet.
And you haven't been rear ended yet? Wow.
The problem is, as noted already, heat buildup. All you have to do is stop a bit short at the light and then roll forward a few feet so the pads cover a now coolerpart of the rotor. I've done this for years and have never had my brakes go out of true yet.
03-21-2003, 04:54 PM
#51
Originally posted by TDoyle
[BThe problem is, as noted already, heat buildup. All you have to do is stop a bit short at the light and then roll forward a few feet so the pads cover a now coolerpart of the rotor. I've done this for years and have never had my brakes go out of true yet. [/B]
[BThe problem is, as noted already, heat buildup. All you have to do is stop a bit short at the light and then roll forward a few feet so the pads cover a now coolerpart of the rotor. I've done this for years and have never had my brakes go out of true yet. [/B]
03-21-2003, 06:09 PM
#52
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: City of the Fallen Angel, CA
Posts: 4,728
Originally posted by Max_5gen
Unfortunately, in case with Max "heat buildup causing warpage" theory doesn't hold. I measured mine when I had bad judder and they were pretty true, less than 20um, otherwise I'd notice. This theory also doesn't explain how already "warped" rotors ride just fine after couple days with new set of good pads, WITHOUT resurfacing. Two days is not enough to wear them significantly. Judder means that friction force varies along with rotor rotation. It could be rotor geometry or friction variation caused by surface effects.
Unfortunately, in case with Max "heat buildup causing warpage" theory doesn't hold. I measured mine when I had bad judder and they were pretty true, less than 20um, otherwise I'd notice. This theory also doesn't explain how already "warped" rotors ride just fine after couple days with new set of good pads, WITHOUT resurfacing. Two days is not enough to wear them significantly. Judder means that friction force varies along with rotor rotation. It could be rotor geometry or friction variation caused by surface effects.
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