I replaced mine at 93k miles with the "new style" OEM coils on my 2000.

Car has 209k on it now and I thought the coils were going bad again as the car started missing a few weeks ago (but no code this time...) I followed a hunch and replaced the O2 sensor and this cleared it up completely, also cleared up cut-outs at cold startup in winter temperatures (20F ish)

So 120k on the new set and still going strong!

 

dude usually it does not matter ac delco/borg warner as well as some other oem part companies are more like distributors for japanese parts so dont be suprised if the part is labled hanshin/tokico/hitachi after you remove a borg warner wrapper its happened to me WARNING STAY AWAY FROM AIRTEX(they are a great recipe for disaster)


my coils went bade last month I replaces all 6 with what my dealer parts guy recomended the 02/03 coils he said these are the updated coils i know that they are 2k2/2k3 cause the last # was a 7 not 5 like the 2k

 

Cylinders closest to firewall/windshield, 1,3,5 right to left or passenger side to driver side. And 2,4,6 closest to radiator, again, passenger side to driver side.

 

Add me, to! I have the 1320 error, and need to replace all !@#$ 6 coils.

 

I started getting P1320 for last few months. I must have reset that error at least 30 times. Only once, did it give me cylinder specific error and that too was a pending error. When I checked it the MIL was still off. Next day, the MIL came on and when I checked the error code, the cylinder specific error was not there!

Suffice to say that without having your own scanner it would have been pretty much impossible to find the specific offending cylinder.

I found the coils on e b a y for $250 for all 6. Just for the grins, I have currently replaced only the offending coil and will monitor it to see the P1320 goes away. Fortunately, it was the front middle coil, so changing it was trivial, thanks to the detailed instruction posted in this forum.

I will replace rest of the coils along with the spark plugs sometime in future.

- Vikas

 

My '00 has about 85,000 on it and I'm getting the CEL for cylinder 2 misfiring. Just ordered six (6) of the new model (a better, improved design hopefully) ignition coils from Trophy Nissan for about $65-70 each.

I plan to keep the car for a very long time, I kept my '90 S13 240sx till 220,000 miles. I assume and hope that the expense for these parts is well worth it in the long run. My car was idling rough and periodically misfiring as I drove down the road, etc.

Am I doing the right thing?

 

whats the cheapest price to get 6 grey dots coils and from where. and what part number for 2001

 

I scaned it when the light came on found code 1320, looked on the net found this site and info about the coils. So i said that must be it. Just purchased all six this morn along with new plugs....replace them all and to my dismay the 1320 comes right up. ..Whats going on ?..these are the grey dot replacements from Autozone. Thanks for any help...

 

Well my 2000 SE is having a little hesitation problem on cold starts, if I let it idle at a cold start it will kill itself, once its warm its fine. No codes whatsoever, but I took a look at the plugs today and decided to ohm out my coils per the FSM, yeah 3 of the six are bad. How can I have 3 coils bad and no CEL? Recall all the way!

 

twllin,

I have a 00 GLE Maxima and in need of 6 coils. I understand you can get a great price? Email me at "berkbigler800@netscape.net. Looking forward to hearing from you.

Bryan Berkbigler

 

Have a 2K SE w/ 78K. Had 1 coil replaced about 2 years ago. SES light came on yesterday, got P1320. Does anyone know how to determine which coil is bad. I have no problem changing myself, looks easy. Just need to know how to find which one is bad

 

Have a 2K with 82K. Number 6 coil went bad. The shop said it will be 250 to replace one coil, plugs and wires. The #6 plug needs to be replaced. Do I need to replace the rest of the plugs and wires, or is just a coil, and the one plug ok?

 

Well, here's a good one for you guys out there

I am currently a mechanic @ a local shop here in MI. I currently have a 1999Maxima w/ the 3.0 V-6. P1320 has been on and it has been to 3 shops before hand. I DO NOT want to send this out, never have let a car go, and I'm not gonna start now.

Coils have been replaced twice (ALL 6 of them) and still the same thing. Idles VERY nicely and has NO other issues what so ever. When you press the gas it GOES, no hesitation what so ever, and power is more than ample during driving. As soon as you clear the code with the engine running - it'll pop right back up and it's starting to drive me up the wall here. I've been searching google.com and other fourms for about 2 hours now - but to no avial. Everyone just replaced the coils and poof - the code is gone, but not in this case.

 

Update:
Last night I was driving on the interstate from work when I noticed my car had even less power, like it was running on only 4 cylinders. As I started going up a large hill I hit the gas to compensate then I just heard loud pops and a tremendous loss of power. So i'm pretty sure all but 1 or 2 are gone. I had it towed, let's just see how much they will charge me.

 

i have a 2000 maxima gle and while driving slow the transmission shifts fine but under heavy acceleration the trsnsmission slips while shifting, and i was wondering if that had anything to do with the coils or the Maf with i had changed 1k miles ago

 

Ive had my Max a big 5 months and its time to replace the coils now. I got it with just under 106k and I just hit 114k and got the SES light flashing on me which autozone showed a P1320 and P0302. But today when I took it to get checked out and to fix that one coil in Cyl #2, the P0302 code was gone for some reason. Instead of having just the one done, I decided to call Dave and order all 6 and try them myself when I get them. The front 3 look like cake, the back 3 a bit harder especially with big clumsy hands. Total for the 6 shipped was 394.67 but oh so worth it considering everyone around me wanted around 1k for all 6 replaced. Ive had a loss of power, some hesitation, and over the last couple days some slightly noticeable to very noticeable shaking from the missing. Just cant figure out why the P0302 code dissapeared though....

Thanks for everyones help on this subject.
John

 

Another Update:
It turns out only one of my coils are bad.
The reason my car quit on me is because of the catalytic convertor. I just hate having to pay 700 bucks to replace one.

 

Did anyone - with the knocking/rattling issue under acceleration, notice a difference after replacing all coils....?
Thanks!

 

HI I have problems with my 2000 max what I did was call to nissan usa and voice my problem if we wont a recall this where we need to start here is the number please post the number so we can get this started. 1-800-647-7261

 

I'm not surprised to see this topic back again and again and again. Yeah they told me the same nonsense about recall not being issued unless its proven to be widespread etc. Just who is the regulatory body that monitors these stats with them? That is probably a starting point too.
If you just go internal they give us the song and dance.
My story is I had the front row replaced under warranty as they rear row supposedly was fine. I was then told at the time that if within a year they went they would replace those too under warranty. Of course less than a year later I was over my original 3 year warranty and still under what I was told. The SOB service consultant told me (same guy) that he would never have said that. Keep in mind I had the original TSB during the original replacement and had asked for a full change knowing what would happen. Long story short of it cost me $300 bucks to do the whole rear. Didn't know better back then about how easy it was to just do this myself.
I love my car but I swear that a lot of the stuff on the org on the 2000 run just keeps coming up.
I have a relatively low mileage vehicle for an almost 7 year old car now....under 60k. I've spent since out of warranty more $ at the stealer than I'd care to remember over the years. That is to say a bunch of stuff popped up while under warranty.
I'm keeping my max till it dies...but sheesh Nissan's policies don't really inspire me to ever buy another. Not to mention ain't all the new cars the "ALTIMA" on steriods now...boring design and shoddy service equals buying elsewhere.
This is still the best forum for any car model that I've been on. The org rules!

 

Newsflash newbie, your car does not have "wires" and that is a ripoff.

 

hi everybody i just joined and figured this would be a great place to post my first topic, i got a 2k gxe with 110k miles on it, i got the ignition coil code, and was wondering, how difficult is the process of changing the coils if the person doing it has automotive know-how. if i can save money by having my friend do it then im all for it.

it really is discouraging to learn of all the problems people have been having with a part that could of been easily fixed from the beginigng when they designed this car.

also i just replaced my catalytic converter at a cost of 800 dollars for the part, as well as a major tune up, plus the diode inside my alternator went (replaced under warranty by my mechanic)

 

Well I had a mech. do mine. Be aware these are not interchangable, the angles are different for the front bank of cylinders versus the back bank.
they also may require ordering as only only type of coil was made for 2000 and 2001 maximas. figure about $85 per coil.

 

Replacing the coils is really easy. I'd say if you can change oil, you can change the coils. The back ones are slightly harder to get to, but you could probably change the first one in thirty minutes. The front ones should probably take less than five minutes each.

That sucks about your catalytic converter - wouldn't it have been cheaper just to go with a nice aftermarket one like a Random Technology?

 

i did get an after market, correction non-performance aftermarket, my mechanic knows nothing of that subject and only knows what the dealership tells him.
but i figured if i ever have to get rid of the car ,i can bring it anyplace and say its all stock as opposed to custom, so that i can get as much value as i can.
say i trade the car in at a dealership, has anybody brought in a car with mods and gotten top dollar for the car including mods?

 

You generally get hosed when selling anything w/ mods. I've always taken the mods off my cars/bikes before I sell them and sell the vehicle as stock. I then sell the parts for whatever I can get out of them.

Just seemed like $800 was high for a cat - I paid a little less than $200 for mine and it actually improved performance.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=RTECSHFCNV01&c=PE

I could be wrong though, I certainly didn't research it very much.

 

You can look for coils on ebay. I got mine for $45 each shipped. Nissan original packaging, grey dots, working fine for a while now. Yes that may have been luck but anyone who needs coils - check them out on ebay.

Also, did anyone ever figure out how to single out a bad coil if you get only the code P1320 and no specific cylinder misfire code? Recommendation by the TSB is to replace all 6. This is crap obviously, they can't all be bad but I never figured how to get the right one. One thing I could've done was to replace #1 coil and reset the ECU, if code came back then that #1 coil was good and so now you put the old #1 back and use the new #1 for the #2 cylinder, reset the ECU and so on until the code never comes back. One problem though - front and back coils are different so you may need to get two already and what if you have two defective coils and not one? So, at $45 a piece I just got them all... Anyone knows of a good way to test these suckers, please post.

And yes, agreed with those who said that Nissan must make this a recall, definitely so.

 

Recall my azz.... there is NOTHING the car does that affects your safety or does it ?

So you all got 1 bad batch of coils, whooooptie do. Once you repleace em you are golden and might never see the problem again. I got a set of grey dot coils for my car as soon as they came out and I needed to do my plugs at 60K miles. So 110K miles so far on the updated coils and I don't see a problem. My OEM coils I kept with 60K...... seeing how I kept em my new ones will probably never fail- but if I throw em out they will fail.

I never had a issue with misfires on my car, never has my check engine light came on for anything but P0420 right after I put on my headers, after which I resolved that issue with the simulator.

There won't be a recall on coils, period. Stop being cheap.

 

I forgot to post back on what I did, so here it is:

I ended up just ordering all 6 coils from Dave in TX for just under 400 shipped. My uncle helped me replace them. From start to finish it took us roughly 30 minutes to get all 6 done. Thats from popping the hood to closing it and starting the car up. It runs much better now, no codes, all is good. All 6 coils that came out were original crap coils, all the new ones are the grey dot ones.

Now heres a question maybe someone can or cant help me with since its not really related to this thread. I recently moved from CA to NV, sea level to 5000ft, and have noticed a drop in performance/power. It almost feels like ive lost a good 15-20 horse. I am not sure if its the elevation change or what but its bothering me. Back when I got the car in July when I was still in CA, I could get on it and the shifts were quick and tight and the car just pulled. Now when I get on it sometimes the shifts are a bit slow or laggy or whatever you want to call it and you dont get that "push your head back" pulling feeling anymore. Any ideas? If nothing here, ill post a thread.

Thanks
John

 

I just had all isx coils replaced at the Nissan store in East Pittsburgh. It cost more than I'd like to admit. Actually I didn't care how much it cost I just wanted my car to operate properly.

For those of you who are do it yourselfers, I've read either in this thread or another that ECM is updated by the dealer when the coils are replaced. I'm not sure if this is an absolute necessary in order for the revised coils to operate properly.

It might be good to know for those out there who are doing the repair themselves. Does anyone know if the ECM has to be reprogrammed?

 

theres no ecm reprogram when installing the new coils
p.s. John, sea levels a b*$ch

 

the reason theres a tsb to replace all 6 is because all the coils will eventual have the primary ignition signal failure. its recomended 1, so you dont have to make a trip to the dealer every year to change 1 ignition coil. 2 because there is no way to tell wich coil is malfunctioning until the primary signal failure is constant in a certain coil. these will usually only trip a light on start up or on acceleration when there is a load and then the ecu stores the code if you think nissan is going to open a recall on a 6-7 year old car your nuts. if these cars had the coil falure problems right from the beginning then you would have a point.

 

i've only had one coil go bad. oddly though it was in direct correlation to me spinning the tires. i replaced it and its been fine ever since.

on a different note, and yes i know its off topic, but has anyone heard of the engine dying after clutching in, say to decel? i cant figure it out. if you're reply is "clean the IAC or MAF" no i havent done that yet, i have not had time.

 

Since Monday I've been have serious engine vibrations and today I just found the ignition coils are the cause. I'm gonna replace all six so i won't have to deal with it in the future.

 

Thats the way to go... definatley

 

Wondering where I can access this TSB on the ignition coils? Also, wondering if someone can provide a link to the cheapest ones available?
Not sure I'd have lucky getting the dealer to pay as I have a 2000 SE bought used that now has about 130k on it. same symptoms showing up as everyone else here, sluggish as hell, shaking, intermittent symptoms, it won't accelerate for crap and I'm getting misfire codes for #3 and also a knock sensor code.

 

I'm having the same problem with my 2001 SE 5spd. The problem comes and most of the time will go away after restarting the engine. When the engine is misfiring, it is extremely noticable under 2K RPMs. I usually have to drop a gear and keep the engine at 3K to lessen the engine vibration. I plan to replace all of my coils this weekend.

 

Go on ebay.com and you can find IT= coils i got a set for 260 plus shipping gray dots brand new replaced all at once to save hassells later. Stop being cheap spend some more now and save yourself trouble later buying coil after coil after coil also replace the plugs to since your putting in new coils put in new plugs.

 

I'm getting the 0300 error without a specific cylinder code. I could replace all 6 coils and have high confidence in fixing the problem. However, I could also wait a while until the faulty coil completely goes out and I get the specific cylinder code. Does anyone know if this 'wait and see' strategy would cause any additional problems to my car? I'm reading a few posts here about problems with the catalytic converter. Is it possible that the misfiring cylinder will send un-ignited fuel out the exhaust and then much up my converter? Could other problems arise with fuel getting pushed in and out the cylinder head?

 

to mchinnas:i got the code a year ago (last winter) at 30k and i did the "Wait and see" way, my car (2000 gxe) operated fine for a year, with the SES light going on and off during the year.
--being a broke college student, i only replaced 1 & 2 recently, and my 3rd is going, and eventually- all of them are going to go. you'll be able to tell if u REALLY need new ones, its like an mini earthquake everytime you're at a red light.

like everyone on the forum said, just replace them all at the same time, along with spark plugs. im replacing all 6 plus my spark plugs soon, and i'll have 2 extras on hand.