View Poll Results: Have you had problems with your ignition coils
Yes
547
77.15%
No
162
22.85%
Voters: 709. You may not vote on this poll
Ignition Coil Problems
#402
Originally Posted by bigfatty
You guys probably should not have to replace all 6, just the bad ones. I did a write up with pics, on how to test yours.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830
Fat
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830
Fat
My $0.02.
#404
Originally Posted by MY2000MAX
You dont have to, but it made sense to me. For one coil you could pay up to $100 (part and labor). Or you can get all 6 for around $350 and do it all at once. In the long run you know the other 5 will go. So why not just do it all at once; save money and more importantly time.
My $0.02.
My $0.02.
Fat
#405
could MAF also be part of car idling badly or misfires, I replaced all coils, cleaned throttle body, fuel injectors spark plugs etc. Cleaned the MAF still the same issue.
However, right after cleaning the MAF the problem disappeared for half a day and car seemed to ride nice. Any ideas where I can get a new MAF?
However, right after cleaning the MAF the problem disappeared for half a day and car seemed to ride nice. Any ideas where I can get a new MAF?
#406
Originally Posted by bigfatty
No one should have to pay for labor on these, even if you have never worked a car before. Its only 1 bolt on the coil is out, so its not really time effective to do all 6 at once. Plus in my write up I showed how I bought mine from Autozone for only $51.99 each. Not EVERY person on the boards has or will have every single coil fail on them, so why pay the extra money?
Fat
Fat
I agree, the coils are definitely a DIY job. But for me it just made sense; since I had 2 of them go on me. I've had just about every common problem on my '00 max, so it was only a matter of time before the others went. And I paid $55 each from a dealer. It was expensive but the car drives great. And thats all that matters.
#408
Ignition coils: any connection to heat?
Is there any connection between the ignition coils and the AC/heat?
A couple weeks ago I got the same SES warning as everyone here. I looked into it & found out I'd need to change all my coils (most were goners). A few days ago, my heat stopped working: it would work for a couple minutes, then suddenly just start blowing cold air and release the rotten egg smell that folks have talked about. This would occur no matter how high I set the thermostat (I have an automatic one, it's a GLE). Once the heat would stop working, it wouldn't work again until hours later, and again only for a couple minutes at a time.
Just this morning I went ahead and replaced all 6 ignitions coils and all 6 spark plugs myself. The car idles and runs just fine (a little better I think). However, the heat still won't work! My hope was that the two were connected. In fact, now it will ONLY blow cold air: I don't even get those couple minutes of warm air.
Can anyone help?
A couple weeks ago I got the same SES warning as everyone here. I looked into it & found out I'd need to change all my coils (most were goners). A few days ago, my heat stopped working: it would work for a couple minutes, then suddenly just start blowing cold air and release the rotten egg smell that folks have talked about. This would occur no matter how high I set the thermostat (I have an automatic one, it's a GLE). Once the heat would stop working, it wouldn't work again until hours later, and again only for a couple minutes at a time.
Just this morning I went ahead and replaced all 6 ignitions coils and all 6 spark plugs myself. The car idles and runs just fine (a little better I think). However, the heat still won't work! My hope was that the two were connected. In fact, now it will ONLY blow cold air: I don't even get those couple minutes of warm air.
Can anyone help?
#412
Originally Posted by vicefredav
Do the newer part numbers end in 00 and 05 or 01 and 06?? All the sites I see selling them have the 00 and 05 ones. Also, all the prices seem to be $65 and above. Any place I can get them for under $60. Thanks
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830
#414
Brinkley, can you tell me a bit more about the heater core? I wonder if there's simply a bad connection somewhere, because later on in the day the heater decided to start working again! But I suspect it just as easily might stop again ... Any pointers would be appreciated
Omar
Omar
#415
Originally Posted by oguessous
Brinkley, can you tell me a bit more about the heater core? I wonder if there's simply a bad connection somewhere, because later on in the day the heater decided to start working again! But I suspect it just as easily might stop again ... Any pointers would be appreciated
Omar
Omar
I'm by far not a mechanic, I do most of the work on my car, but sometimes have to take it in. The reason I suspect it is your heater core, is the smell you are experiencing, I've had core problems with other cars, and i've always had that smell each time. You might also check your thermostat, is your water temp getting warm?
#416
I have a 2000 Infiniti I30t, it has about 145,000 miles, car was running a little sluggish so i changed all my spark plugs, it ran much better till a week later, when i started my car and went to take off but it was hesitating few seconds later my SES light and TCS light came on, went to auto zone they put on the scanner and they said it's misfiring and give it a tune up, already changed the plugs so i guess it's the coils?? any suggestions
#417
Originally Posted by Freakem911
I have a 2000 Infiniti I30t, it has about 145,000 miles, car was running a little sluggish so i changed all my spark plugs, it ran much better till a week later, when i started my car and went to take off but it was hesitating few seconds later my SES light and TCS light came on, went to auto zone they put on the scanner and they said it's misfiring and give it a tune up, already changed the plugs so i guess it's the coils?? any suggestions
Fat
#418
Luckly I have a warranty
I also had problems with the ignition coils. Luckly i had a warranty that covered it, It only cost me $100 which was the deductable to fix everything, Already, I saved $500-$600 on repairs for my car.
#420
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Delete a vote for no and add one for yes..
60100 miles and have a bad coil...Going to replace all 6.
60100 miles and have a bad coil...Going to replace all 6.
Fat
#421
I got the dealer to replace all 6 by *****ing several times about it while I was under an extended warranty. I showed them this poll, the online petition, the TSB, and google searched the org and web....then printed it all out and showed it to my service advisor. It was humorous how they went from "we don't know anything about it" to "sir, we're gonna replace all six"...
#422
Originally Posted by bigfatty
Why spend the extra money? Its been shown you dont have to replace all six right now and the rest will give you plenty more mileage.
Fat
Fat
#423
Today I hooked a ampmeter to the fluke 98 and tested the front 3 coils on the scope...
Unfortunately I didn't have a camera but all 3 coil's wave forms where good at idle..
They all had the slope going up to about 600 MV (ampmeter set to 1/10 IIRC)then the drop straight to zero volts...When I would snap the throttle the slope only went to about 400 mv and instead of dropping straight down it slopped down the same way the slope up was...It's funny because one would show bad on every throttle snap and the other would only show bad 1/3 or 1/4 throttle snaps...Anyhow 2 of 3 of the front ones are bad, so what I'll do is label them all 1 2 3 4 5 and 6...Then I'll take pics of all 6 while at idle and while I snap the throttle..
I'll also check the resistance on each coil and post my results here. I'm going to be very busy this week. Hopefully I'll be able to do it Tuesday or Wednesday of next week..
My LTFT (long term fuel trim) was -10%, so I'm guessing once I put the new ones in and correct my lean condition I will probably see a drop in fuel consumption.
Unfortunately I didn't have a camera but all 3 coil's wave forms where good at idle..
They all had the slope going up to about 600 MV (ampmeter set to 1/10 IIRC)then the drop straight to zero volts...When I would snap the throttle the slope only went to about 400 mv and instead of dropping straight down it slopped down the same way the slope up was...It's funny because one would show bad on every throttle snap and the other would only show bad 1/3 or 1/4 throttle snaps...Anyhow 2 of 3 of the front ones are bad, so what I'll do is label them all 1 2 3 4 5 and 6...Then I'll take pics of all 6 while at idle and while I snap the throttle..
I'll also check the resistance on each coil and post my results here. I'm going to be very busy this week. Hopefully I'll be able to do it Tuesday or Wednesday of next week..
My LTFT (long term fuel trim) was -10%, so I'm guessing once I put the new ones in and correct my lean condition I will probably see a drop in fuel consumption.
#425
Right now I had this problem... this is my 2nd time...
When I got this problem, Nissan dealer changed only 1 coil because I was under warranty. Right now... they are asking me change other 5 coils as $670+Tax+$100(Diagosis).. Totally around over 800bucks~
So... I paid only 100bucks for diagosys, and supposed to repair by myself~
I think we have to move this poll to the sticky corner~
When I got this problem, Nissan dealer changed only 1 coil because I was under warranty. Right now... they are asking me change other 5 coils as $670+Tax+$100(Diagosis).. Totally around over 800bucks~
So... I paid only 100bucks for diagosys, and supposed to repair by myself~
I think we have to move this poll to the sticky corner~
#426
Originally Posted by jcmuelle
I was just wondering if it is better to buy Nissan's brand of updated coils or to buy after market brands like ACDELCO or Borg-Warner. Any help would be appreciated.
Fat
#427
I had P1320, no other error code. However, I could not feel any difference before CHeck Engine Light except the ignition at the cold day. Do you think I have to change the coil, or wait until I can feel confirmly the difference. Nissan Dealer recommends to change 5 coils(1 was changed already).
Thank you~
If it is possible, let me know by this e-mail. sung.91@osu.edu
Thank you~
If it is possible, let me know by this e-mail. sung.91@osu.edu
#429
Coils
I have several sets of used coils for the front (or left) bank of cylinders for both the 4th gen (95-99) and 5th gen (00-01) engines.
To answer questions that are sure to come:
1. No, I don't have any for the rear (or right) bank for either gen;
2. Where did they come from?? Last year I sourced several 5th gen 00VI systems to re-sell on the org, and with each also got the full set of coils. The rear coils (along with the rear valve covers) were sold as part of the 00VI setup. That left me with several sets of fronts. All of these came from salvage yards out of engines that had been in cars that were totaled. Thus, although I've not tested them and can offer no guarantees, I feel there's a high degree a certainty that they will work fine. I used 3 rears in my own 4th gen engine when I did the 00VI modification, and that's been about a year now with no problem. I also used 3 of the fronts when I switched over to a 5th gen front valve cover, and again, no problems. And no, I didn't cherry-pick or keep switching them until I found ones that worked. These are all OEM made by Hanshin, and have part number 22448-2Y005 stamped on them.
I have 4 sets of the 5th gen fronts, plus one set of the 4th gen fronts (which came out of my own engine and were working just fine). The price is $50 per set of 3, shipped - or best offer. That's considerably less than a single new coil's going to cost you unless someone puts together a hell-of-a group deal.
To answer questions that are sure to come:
1. No, I don't have any for the rear (or right) bank for either gen;
2. Where did they come from?? Last year I sourced several 5th gen 00VI systems to re-sell on the org, and with each also got the full set of coils. The rear coils (along with the rear valve covers) were sold as part of the 00VI setup. That left me with several sets of fronts. All of these came from salvage yards out of engines that had been in cars that were totaled. Thus, although I've not tested them and can offer no guarantees, I feel there's a high degree a certainty that they will work fine. I used 3 rears in my own 4th gen engine when I did the 00VI modification, and that's been about a year now with no problem. I also used 3 of the fronts when I switched over to a 5th gen front valve cover, and again, no problems. And no, I didn't cherry-pick or keep switching them until I found ones that worked. These are all OEM made by Hanshin, and have part number 22448-2Y005 stamped on them.
I have 4 sets of the 5th gen fronts, plus one set of the 4th gen fronts (which came out of my own engine and were working just fine). The price is $50 per set of 3, shipped - or best offer. That's considerably less than a single new coil's going to cost you unless someone puts together a hell-of-a group deal.
#436
after getting cel p1320 and p0304. changed all coils dealer wanted I think 600 just in parts. and me saying dee da dee. to that. went to a parts store totall price 230 for all 6. plus a home boy hook up of 30% and then 15 mins after that no more cel light and cars running like a beast.
#437
Originally Posted by evi1maxima
after getting cel p1320 and p0304. changed all coils dealer wanted I think 600 just in parts. and me saying dee da dee. to that. went to a parts store totall price 230 for all 6. plus a home boy hook up of 30% and then 15 mins after that no more cel light and cars running like a beast.
Nice way to save money...
#440
Also Having coil problem!
Lot's of great info here. Can anyone tell me the correct line up of Cylinders and Banks?
What cylinders are located closest to the Windshield, and what Cylinders are located closest to the front of the car?
Thank you,
What cylinders are located closest to the Windshield, and what Cylinders are located closest to the front of the car?
Thank you,