Guys,
I've got a 2000 Max SE with around 90k miles on it. Recently noticing that when the engine is cold (like in the morning-even in Louisiana), the car lurches when held at a constant rpm and speed. I've put the car in 1 or 2 (it's an auto) and can feel the rough engine at several different speed/rpm combinations. After the engine temp warms up to ~1/3 of way between C and H, the surging goes away.

Any thoughts?

I got a cylinder misfire and knocking last summer and changed the ignition coil on the cylinder that threw the code. After reset everything was ok for a while. Then the MAF went out in August, car was stalling when let to idle. Replaced plugs with NGK OEM. I haven't found any leaks, but am puzzled by what would cause the car to run poorly while in "heat up" mode, but fine after engine warm.

Thanks for the help

 

i have 90,000 on my 2000 max, and have never replaced the ignition coils. but,
i'm the second owner. i checked the m last night (the front 3 that i could get to
easily) and they have the grey dot. obviously the 1st owner had them replaced.

and here i thought i was the only 2000 max owner w/ original coils.

 

I just ordered 6 new coils for my 2000 Maxima se. 52,000 miles. I got mine from Courtesy for 327.18 plas 8 s&h

 

Sigh...

I posted about this a few months back, finally had time to get back to the dealership with respect to my issues. Armed with data from here, the service manager said he will change out my coils and he wants to retard the timing as well. Not sure I want the timing set back... Have to research that one a bit. Have 34k on my 2000 Maxima.

 

Just change the coils yourself and see if the problem goes away. Or let him change the coils but DON'T let him retard the timing. That is not fixing the problem.

 

at 90,000, look to the fuel filter.

 

You mean the fuel pump/strainer combo? The 2000 doesn't have a fuel filter to my knowledge. I can hear the pump running but have checked any fuel pressures since there are no connections without cutting lines and installing tees for gauges.

 

When I bought my car (USED at 52K) the dealership changed one coil, and now at 82K I get SES codes 1350 and 0305 with a narrative "misfire detected in #5 cylinder" so I am about to check it out and replace it if necessary.

I VOTE RECALL RECALL RECALL...same on MAF issue also

 

recall recall!!!!!!!

 

Am I the only one to hit 100K on original coils? Damn, just got 1320 and 0302 codes. Car has no power.. Buddy gave me his old ones, so I'll try to replace cylinder #2, so that I 'll have some time to save $ for now ones..

 

i got 96000 and counting

 

question, my car wheni hit it to nuetral, the RPM falls to almost 200 rpms and then goes back up to 600 rpms at idle. feels like it's almost gonna stall! and when i go on highways and hit it to nuetral going around 80+mph, the car stalls. anyone know what this is?

 

i have about 82,000 miles on my 00 max. the car started to idle really rough in gear and the SES light lit up, so i went to autozone to find out that my cylinder 5 is misfiring.... brought it to nissan, told them what was wrong and they told me about the tsb and that it would be about $600 to change the coils. so i laughed at them, and told them that id buy the coils and install it myself. im hoping that it solves the problem. i would definatly support a class action lawsuit against nissan for this problem, or at least try to seek reimbursement for our unnecessary expenses.

 

Class action law suite....hahahahahah :P Man how can you even say that at 80K miles the coils went bad and your going to sue Nissan for it ? How bout Acura with thousands and thousands of cars with BAD A/T trannies crappn out on them, guess how many have tried to sue and got nothing out of it ?? OK. You people b!tch bout a 300 dollar coil purchase, these folks are left with WAY bigger repair bills for their not covered A/T trannies.

 

I got the same thing on my 00 with 64k miles. Code 1320 and 0305. How do i know which cylinder is number 5?

 

Back of the engine, on drivers side. Numbering is as follows: front from left to right 2 - 4 - 6. Back left to right 1 - 3 - 5. Thats when you stand infront of the car facing it.

 

This thread is so long this may be a repost, but here's the related TSB service proceedure for anyone with a code of p1320. Also, note that no way is provided to determine which one to replace. Therefore it makes sense that under warranty Nissan replaces all 6.

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../NTB01-059.htm
(found this link via the TSB thread in this forum)

 

The bulletin suggests to change the WIRING HARNESS also. Which harness is that? Anyone here changed the harness yet??

 

i have a feeling it's the EGI wiring harness that connects the fuel injection, ignition, etc to the ECU. When I had my IAC valve problems, the dealer tried to stick me with this -- $800+ for the part alone. BIG mess, don't let 'em touch it.

 

I think it's the wires that connect to each ignition coil and the hub that they spawn from. Not sure though.

 

my 2k with 68000 started missing yesteray morning at start up. SES light came on while driving to work. Later while at work I started the car and it was fine. Took it to AutoZone to have codes read and got a p0303. #3 misfire. without a 1320 code is this a coil prob or possbly just a piece of trash that temporarily fouled the plug. Car has run fine since yesterday

 

You may want to check the plug in that cylinder or have it checked to see if it appear fouled. The haynes manual can tell you what it should look like there are also resources on the web that can tell you how to tell if your plug doesn't look the way it should (like http://www.advanceautoparts.com/engl...0030701sp.html).

 

Thanks....I have the haynes manual also. I might try and pull it this weekend but since it is running good again I am afraid to touch those coil packs.....

 

If you replace the coils, is a a must to reprogram the computer(ECU, EUM, EMC, not really sure of prefix) or do you just drive off into the sunset????

 

Mine is a 2000 and was reset when the battery was disconected while replacing the coils. I changed all six and have not had a problem since. Earlier models I believe have a reset button somewhere under the dash.

 

Drive into the sunset with your shades and music 'on'.

Nothing requires reprogramming and you can change your coils without disconnecting the battery.

 

2K SE, 36000. All six coils,$720! Maybe I should write Nissan and ask them if they are aware that something under the hood is stinkin' up a pretty sweet engine. $720 would surely clean the air.

 

they are $50 each, still expensive, but i think you are getting raped with that price.

 

what are the part numbers for the rear 3 coils??? how about the front 3

 

I still cant tell if my damn coils are bad or not. What should i look for to see if they are or not. i hear a lil rumble from my exhaust now compared to before but i only have a cattman ypipe. The acceleration has decread a lil i have to go half way on the pedal to make it go sometimes. Not sure on what to do really to test it. any sugestions?>

 

hey nocturnal,

i've been reading through these threads for quiet a while now. i think i got the same problem that you have with the decreased acceleration... the car jus doesn't want to reach from 3000rpm to 5000rpm at all (takes a while) i decided it is my MAF, and i ordered one from pinnacle nissan for $78!! free shipping :P. can't wait to get this part but my bro ordered valve cover gaskets for his 92' 240 and they have to order it. damnit, his crap jus delayed my crap. oh well, newayz the coils i'll be gettin for $306 from the same site but can't splurge for that yet. but from all these threads bout the MAF, it should have a huge difference in performance when i change it. check the MAF threads if you didn't already. laters

 

I've got a 2001 Maxima, bought 2 years ago with 30K. Car now has 65K. When cold, the car sputters, runs rough and dies until it's warmed up a bit. Idles fine and generally drives OK when warm. Sounds like coils from the millions of posts I've read.

One thing it does do once it's warmed up (but not all the time) is lose about 100 horse at 3500-4000rpm. The car will pull fine, then lose power at the said RPM like someone flipped a switch. The car still runs smooth, doesn't feel like a misfire, but it loses tons of power and barely accelerates. That would make me think a MAF over coils.

I've searched a bunch of threads, read all the posts, still not exactly sure what it is, and I don't like to buy parts I don't need. I have no SES light, and haven't ever had one.

 

I don't know about the weak acceleration. When my coils went my, car sputtered alot. The acceleration was great, but when the coils acted up, the car would be very jumpy and non-linear. But, my problem was easily resolved because the coils registered codes in my ECU. When I went to read the codes, the ECU clearly told me which coils had to be changed. The first code listed was "primary ignition fault", and the other two codes were, "misfire in cylinder 1" and "misfire in cylinder 4". If your car is really bad, I can't see why the computer doesn't trip your check engine light? Hope this helps.

 

Well, I'm convinced it needs coils. If one of you that sells the new coils sees this before I find you, post the latest price. Thanks!

 

I am considering buying a 2000 Maxima GXe 5-speed with 95,000 miles from a dealer and I was just wondering, if Premium fuel wasnt used before should I start using it now, and if I am going to come across a coil problem again if they were already replaced once, and same goes for the O2 sensors? Another thing I wanted to know is, what should I look for before buying it?

 

Fuel doesn't matter, it's what you want. Premium fuel will give you more power (only because it will knock (ping) less, and your ECU will give you more timing), but running regular is fine.

 

So do you think I am gettin a good deal at asking price 7 thousand?

 

My 2K coils threw an SES around 60,xxx miles.....Went to Perry Nissan to have the code checked...they said it was a defective coil....I said I have had rough idling for 20,xxx at startup, not every startup but once in awhile...I told them that I was aware of the coil issues and asked if it was under warranty or recall...the Serv Mgr contacted Nissan and they replaced all 6 under good will.....while they were into it I decided to have them replace the plugs....I know I replaced them before the 100k, but I saved on labor since they were in that deep......Perry Nissan is in Columbia, MO.....I cannot say enough for how they have treated me when I have had a problem...they have worked with me and replaced items under warranty when the car was out of warranty.....since the replacement of the coils, no more rough idle....

 

I’m glad I didn’t see this thread a couple days ago or I would have had an unnecessary freak-out. I was driving to work yesterday and notices a rough idle as I got off the freeway. Going home and the service engine soon light came on. Stopped by the Zone and rented the tester and got 2 Misfire on Cylinder one codes. Bought a Haynes and went home to test.

I was thinking a coil but if I had read this thread I would have thought it was the coil for sure. The car had 88K miles and I replaced the spark plugs at 36K when I had a head gasket blow out in the middle of nowhere so I expected them to be good. Followed the test instructions, the coil tested good and was trying the plug. No sparkie. I inserted a new plug I had bought for my Bronco but hadn’t installed yet. Big sparkie. I replaced the plugs and all is well.

I just wanted everyone (if they have the ability) to test the parts before spending a lot of $$ for something they didn’t need. I am glad I read this though and am now aware of this issue.

 

Add me to the list of frustrated Maxima owners. My 2000 SE 5spd started having problems with rough accleration at 40K and the check engine light came on. Autozone read the code as P1320. Car was also stalling frequently. Replaced all 6 coils and cleaned the throttle body. Stalling went away but new coils didn't fix acceleration problem. Not sure what to do next. Under hard acceleration it cuts out around 2500-3500 rpm, noticeable drop in power. Also rough when driving slowly in 1st gear, lurching. I'm thinking maybe MAF, O2 sensor, fuel filter (none on 2000?). Any suggestions before I dump the car??? BTW- have 6 original coils if anyone is interested.

M