I read in another post today that several service technicians had advised the owners to drive their cars aggressively so that the ECU "learned" that driving pattern. I have a new 2k3 SE that I'm still breaking in, so I haven't really pushed it yet. It hasn't been over 70 MPH or 4,000 RPMS and no real quick takeoffs. My question is...after I pass 1,000 miles and the break-in is done will disconnecting the battery for an hour or so be enough for me to "reteach" the ECU a driving pattern? If not, what do I have to do to do this? Thanks for your help.

 

It won't matter. These things don't really break in until about 12,500 miles. But after 1,000 you should be able to start ******* it. I would personally change out the break in oil about that time.

 

Yes I plan to change the oil for the first time this weekend. But the question is...what needs to be done to reset the ECU so that it "learns" my driving pattern again? Is simply disconnecting the battery for an hour enough or does Nissan need to do something?

 

Personally, I think that whole theory is a load of crap.

The fuel and ignition maps, and fuel injector scaling tables are updated just like a rolling average would be, and the updates are in such small increments, you'd have to beat the crap out of your car ALL the time to affect them in any meaningful way.

Besides that, at WOT, the ECU goes open loop and uses fixed tables, unless Nissan does something different.

 

This is true. The ECU changes the fuel trims all the time.


Don't do anything differently. Just drive the car as you wish and have fun with it.

Also now that Im thinking about it, it wouldn't hurt to leave the break in oil in there for another thousand miles. Now knowing how long it took to break this thing in.

 

Is the break-in oil different or special or anything? I planned on changing it with Castrol GTX at around 750-1000 miles to get all the microscopic metal shavings that must be in there right now out.

 

Why does everyone think there are microscopic metal shavings in their engine??

First off, don't you think Nissan cleans up these engines before final assembly and oiling?

Secondly, so what? If there were it obviously isn't harming the engine so why jump up at the first chance you get to removing them..

I'm just curious why people think this.. Appearantly you guys think engines are made in the same way mass-produced plastic parts are made.. (all stuck together with a little peice of plastic that comes off when you remove it from the fastener)

 

From what I've read in previous posts, it's not possible to reset the ECU by pulling the battery (unlike other cars). The technician cleared mine.

Regarding the driving patterns, I agree with itdood that it's a rolling average (otherwise, once it's set you're stuck with it). The difference here is that I'm starting from scratch (post break-in), so I think the svc. manager told me to go out and run fast so I'd start with the engine set to max (pun intended). Long-term it'll probably average out.

One interesting change so far (other than more power ) is that the shift points have moved closer to redline. The car now shifts around 6,350, instead of the ~6,200 I was getting.

 

itdood,

Do you have any internal data on these fixed tables? anything?


thanx
SHIFT_woosh

 

You shift at 6350 all the time ???

 

Unfortunately no, I was speaking from what I understand on my other car and OBD-II. I have a programable ECU for my 95 Talon TSi (called DSMlink). I can actually adjust the maps. Awesome for a turbo-ed car, better than an AFC I think because I'm not skewing MAF data.

From what I've seen, there doesn't seem to be any reverse engineering on the nissan ECUs. The DSM community is hard core and has those ECUs figured out every which way.

 

No

 

Resetting the ECU:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/reset-ecm.jpg

 

Are you sure? Isn't this how to reset the throttle position sensor, not the ECU?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....et#post1893275

 

The procedure listed above resets the emissions data, the air/fuel mixtures, and the learned driving conditions.

The procedure to reset the throttle position sensor is different:

Turn car off for 10 seconds.
Turn car on for 3 seconds.
(Repeat 2 more times)

 

Allrighty then - I stand corrected

 

Is this really true???...I only ask because I babied my car for the first 1,000 miles and only shift every 3,000 and never went over 50. Would it be wise to have the ECU reset and then drive the car aggressively???

 

Yes

Honestly, it doesn't matter. However you drive it, it will learn that pattern. It will also adjust the pattern if your driving habits change.

If your initial driving isn't like your normal driving, then resetting it will only help it learn your new settings faster. But note that it still takes something like 100 miles before it will learn your setting enough to notice a difference.

If you drive it like you normally would, then don't bother resetting it. It has already learned your style.

 

Yes



Honestly, it doesn't matter. However you drive it, it will learn that pattern. It will also adjust the pattern if your driving habits change.

If your initial driving isn't like your normal driving, then resetting it will only help it learn your new settings faster. But note that it still takes something like 100 miles before it will learn your setting enough to notice a difference.

If you drive it like you normally would, then don't bother resetting it. It has already learned your style. [/QUOTE]
Thanks for the info studman I won't bother resetting the ECU then. I mostly drive the car normal. I'll ocassionaly "Get on it" once in a while.