I took car to track Tues. and posted in 1/4 mile forum about it http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....readid=209354. On final run, I got severe wheel hop(wipers turned themselves on), but had heard that best runs were with hop, so I kept my foot in it and rode out the storm.
Now my car has a quiet "thunk" when I accelerate from stop. It is not very loud and can barely be felt. Noise is coming from front left suspension area.
By the way, this run was my slowest 60' (~2.45 seconds) and slowest quarter time and trap. I also got hop slamming second on all three runs. Car is 2k2 6spd.
Now my car has a quiet "thunk" when I accelerate from stop. It is not very loud and can barely be felt. Noise is coming from front left suspension area.
By the way, this run was my slowest 60' (~2.45 seconds) and slowest quarter time and trap. I also got hop slamming second on all three runs. Car is 2k2 6spd.
I'm getting 2.3 60s with 0 wheel hop. I feel wheel hop is horrible for the car. Try a happy compromise between slipping the clutch and wheel spin. Wheel hop IMO is very bad for the drivetrain.
Quote:
Originally posted by SEturner
I took car to track Tues. and posted in 1/4 mile forum about it. On final run, I got severe wheel hop(wipers turned themselves on), but had heard that best runs were with hop, so I kept my foot in it and rode out the storm.
Now my car has a quiet "thunk" when I accelerate from stop. It is not very loud and can barely be felt. Noise is coming from front left suspension area.
By the way, this run was my slowest 60' (~2.45 seconds) and slowest quarter time and trap. I also got hop slamming second on all three runs. Car is 2k2 6spd.
You probably broke your motor mounts at this pointOriginally posted by SEturner
I took car to track Tues. and posted in 1/4 mile forum about it. On final run, I got severe wheel hop(wipers turned themselves on), but had heard that best runs were with hop, so I kept my foot in it and rode out the storm.
Now my car has a quiet "thunk" when I accelerate from stop. It is not very loud and can barely be felt. Noise is coming from front left suspension area.
By the way, this run was my slowest 60' (~2.45 seconds) and slowest quarter time and trap. I also got hop slamming second on all three runs. Car is 2k2 6spd.
Quote:
Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
just curious... how could you think that a tire breaking traction would make for a better time?
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
just curious... how could you think that a tire breaking traction would make for a better time?

Quote:
Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!
"momentary traction"Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!

Quote:
Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!
I understand "not wanting to give up" but spin/hop/slip/whatever is always going to decrease time. You'd have done better to let off a little until it got under control... notice that was your worst time Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!

Member
In a FWD car, wheel hop is when the tire has a ton of grip in it (or the track sometimes), but when the car launches, alot of the weight transfers to the rear. Unfortunately it does not leave much to hold the tire on the pavement.
In my Monte, i don't have posi and i have really only hopped the tire once and it felt like the car was just going to fall apart. Wheel hop is BAD!
In my Monte, i don't have posi and i have really only hopped the tire once and it felt like the car was just going to fall apart. Wheel hop is BAD!
Senior Member
when you accelerate too hard the tires keep momentarily losing traction. they have traction then they lose it, they get some, then lose it, then get some...etc...its like the tires are hopping off the gound. this causes the car to shake and bounce.
Quote:
Originally posted by PCGuRu2K
You probably broke your motor mounts at this point
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...Originally posted by PCGuRu2K
You probably broke your motor mounts at this point
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****
Quote:
Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****
$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****

Quote:
Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****
Buy new ones from Nissan and GIVE ME YOUR OLD ONES!!!! Hehe. Just kidding. Call Dave Burnette at (888)254-6060 once you figure out which you need. Top mount ~$117, rear bottom ~$60, front ~$65, and the trans ~$73. These are old prices, so they may be different now.Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****
Most likely it's the rear bottom mount. Put the car on stands and crawl underneath. There is a support running lengthwise(front-to-rear) and it's mounted on that closer to the firewall. Use a crowbar or BIG azz screwdriver to pry on the support and a STRONG point on the engine. If you can wiggle the engine a little, you'll be able see if the rubber center part of the mount is torn with a flashlight. If that doesn't work, have a friend throttle the engine while you watch the mount. If it bangs metal-to-metal, you need a new one.
BTW, don't throw away the old mounts, you can POLY fill them for next time or if you can be without your car for several days, you can wait for them to cure and save you some money.
Quote:
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Buy new ones from Nissan and GIVE ME YOUR OLD ONES!!!! Hehe. Just kidding. Call Dave Burnette at (888)254-6060 once you figure out which you need. Top mount ~$117, rear bottom ~$60, front ~$65, and the trans ~$73. These are old prices, so they may be different now.
Most likely it's the rear bottom mount. Put the car on stands and crawl underneath. There is a support running lengthwise(front-to-rear) and it's mounted on that closer to the firewall. Use a crowbar or BIG azz screwdriver to pry on the support and a STRONG point on the engine. If you can wiggle the engine a little, you'll be able see if the rubber center part of the mount is torn with a flashlight. If that doesn't work, have a friend throttle the engine while you watch the mount. If it bangs metal-to-metal, you need a new one.
BTW, don't throw away the old mounts, you can POLY fill them for next time or if you can be without your car for several days, you can wait for them to cure and save you some money.
Thanks for the helpOriginally posted by IceY2K1
Buy new ones from Nissan and GIVE ME YOUR OLD ONES!!!! Hehe. Just kidding. Call Dave Burnette at (888)254-6060 once you figure out which you need. Top mount ~$117, rear bottom ~$60, front ~$65, and the trans ~$73. These are old prices, so they may be different now.
Most likely it's the rear bottom mount. Put the car on stands and crawl underneath. There is a support running lengthwise(front-to-rear) and it's mounted on that closer to the firewall. Use a crowbar or BIG azz screwdriver to pry on the support and a STRONG point on the engine. If you can wiggle the engine a little, you'll be able see if the rubber center part of the mount is torn with a flashlight. If that doesn't work, have a friend throttle the engine while you watch the mount. If it bangs metal-to-metal, you need a new one.
BTW, don't throw away the old mounts, you can POLY fill them for next time or if you can be without your car for several days, you can wait for them to cure and save you some money.
Quote:
Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
Thanks for the help
Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
Thanks for the help
Just remember NOT to throw away the broken ones.
Quote:
Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****
Buy some polyurethane mounts made by Place Racing.. You won't regret it.. I didn;t Originally posted by BLKMAX005SPD
how would you go about fixing your motor mounts...
because when i turn my car on it sounds like my engine is lose.
something is ****ed up
my car is ****

Quote:
Originally posted by IceY2K1

Just remember NOT to throw away the broken ones.
why not?Originally posted by IceY2K1
Just remember NOT to throw away the broken ones.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
just curious... how could you think that a tire breaking traction would make for a better time?
Tires woarm up and stick. Nut that's suposed to be done before taking off, Isn't it???Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
just curious... how could you think that a tire breaking traction would make for a better time?
Quote:
Originally posted by Maxman2000
Tires woarm up and stick. Nut that's suposed to be done before taking off, Isn't it???
Right, that's from burning out BEFORE you get on the track. Once the light goes green any slip/spin/hop means the tire is breaking traction.Originally posted by Maxman2000
Tires woarm up and stick. Nut that's suposed to be done before taking off, Isn't it???
Short story, wheel hop is never good unless you're looking for a reason to replace a part.
Quote:
Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
why not?
Originally posted by 2k2wannabe
why not?
Quote:
Originally posted by IceY2K1
BTW, don't throw away the old mounts, you can POLY fill them for next time or if you can be without your car for several days, you can wait for them to cure and save you some money.
Originally posted by IceY2K1
BTW, don't throw away the old mounts, you can POLY fill them for next time or if you can be without your car for several days, you can wait for them to cure and save you some money.

Quote:
Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!
That's the stupidest thing i have ever heard. Originally posted by SEturner
One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop. Also, I was racing a Mustang GT, and I just didn't want to give up!
Really is.Could also be the front left stabilizer link (Connects the front stabilizer bar to the control arm, has two ball joins that have a tendency to go), at least that's something that broke on my car.
about wheel hop and good times...
the first time I ever went to the track, my best ET was 14.9, and I had MAD wheel hop on that run.
it was like 70 out, and at 1000ft though....
a month later, it was 50 out, and I ran a 14.8 w/out wheelhop...
it sucks when it's doing it, feels like the whole car is going to break apart..thank God I didn't break anything.
good luck getting it fixed.
-vq
the first time I ever went to the track, my best ET was 14.9, and I had MAD wheel hop on that run.
it was like 70 out, and at 1000ft though....
a month later, it was 50 out, and I ran a 14.8 w/out wheelhop...
it sucks when it's doing it, feels like the whole car is going to break apart..thank God I didn't break anything.
good luck getting it fixed.
-vq
"One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop."
Stupid is as stupid does....
Stupid is as stupid does....
Steven Kusek with Frankencar was suppose to be manufacturing poly filled motor mounts for our 2K2's that would eliminate wheel hop. I was suppose to get one of the first sets but have not heard back from him.
Senior Member
Quote:
Originally posted by Galo
"One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop."
Stupid is as stupid does....
just in his defense i remember reading that a few months ago. im pretty sure the guy who said it was one of our habitual drag racers (like MardiGras or Jime). it wasnt just some random kid.Originally posted by Galo
"One of the regular posters on this site surmised that hop was better than just spinning because the car is gaining momentary traction instead of just simply spinning. He indicated his own personal bests were with hop."
Stupid is as stupid does....
