Hey, I searched and couldnt find a how to that Latinmax made..
Does anyonw know where I can come by a how to?

Also, what pumps are available?

And does anyone have pics of the install?

THanks in advance!
Killer

 

here I am and Page 2 is where you will find the write up.

 

linkie no workie

 

try now

 

nope
Is it me?

cardomain.com isnt working at all for me.....

 

did you ever get on.

 

doesnt work for me either...

 

I'm gonna install mines on Friday... I'll be using LatinMax's writeup

Walbro GSS342 (High Pressure 255lph) fuel pump

Why Needed?: If you want more than 65HP in nitrous, or do a major supercharger/turbo upgrade.

Price: It can be picked up for $85 shipped, look around on the net (i.e. ebay) for performance shops and e-mail them directly with an offer.

Performance Pontential: This pump will handle all of your upgrade needs pushing well over 100psi-enough for well over 400BHP.

Fittment Issues: This unit is the pump ONLY and will require the use of the stock pump housing and filter. It is nearly* a direct plug-in replacement for our stock pump.

*The pump has some small plastic spacer tabs on the top and bottom that need to be grinded off to fit inside our stock housing correclty. (Anyone with 2 minutes and a grinder can achieve this.)

You will also need get a new gas tank o-ring seal from your local Nissan dealer ($9).

PRELIMINARY STUFF :

WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!

•Remove the FUEL PUMP FUSE from the fuse box underneath the dash.

•Start the engine to use up the remaining fuel under pressure in the fuel line. Wait for engine to stall.

•Re-start a couple times to make sure you have gotten as much fuel out as possible.

•Open fuel door and take off gas cap to release air pressure in fuel tank.

•Disconnect the GROUND CABLE from car battery.

•Reinstall fuel pump fuse back into fuse box.

OEM FUEL PUMP REMOVAL :

•Remove REAR SEAT CUSHION by pulling both RELEASE RINGS underneath.

•Remove the THREE 8mm (or Phillips screw head) bolts holding on the TOP COVER.

•Disconnect the 1 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES from the top.

•The top of the fuel tank is very DIRTY. To minimize the possibility of contaminating the fuel tank, CLEAN using brake cleaner. Wipe off excess and allow to dry.

•Disconnect the fuel line under the hood going to the fuel pressure regulator. (this is by the throttle body) This will cause any fuel left in the return line to drain back into the fuel take or spill under the hood. This much better than havimg it stink the inside of your car in the next step.

•Disconnect both HOSE CLAMPS securing the 2 fuel lines leading to fuel tank. The fuel line on the right hand side (driver) will be the one with the fuel coming out. So have some rags handy as some fuel will come out of that hose.

•Remove the SIX 8mm BOLTS holding on the securing ring. Remove the RING and set aside.

•Slowly fuel pump assembly, with extra care of the arm of the fuel sending unit.

BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING IN THE FUEL TANK (LIKE THE O-RING)

•Using a flat-head screwdriver to remove the fuel level sender. You will be able to see the fuel pump assembly underneath. Using a flat-head screwdriver, carefully, pry off the 3 LOCKING PORTIONS of the "basket" to FREE THE TOP HALF. This part requires some time and finesse. As you are lifting the top half off you will be able to unplug the electrical plug on top of the fuel pump

•Carefully turn the FUEL PUMP AND PICKUP assembly counterclockwise about 90o and lift to remove. Note the position of the hose and pickup for later reassembly.

REINSTALLATION OF FUEL PUMP :

•COMPARE the OEM and Walbro fuel pump.

•Carefully grind off the tabs that are on the top of the Walbro to allow the clip to fit. (this is very easy and should not take you more than 20 min at the worst)

•Carefully remove the pickup assembly RETAINER. Remove the pickup assemble. If pickup SCREEN is dirty, clean it. REINSTALL the pickup assembly onto the Walbro in the same position. Make sure the pickup is firmly attached to fuel pump!

•Carefully replace new Walbro/pickup assembly back into lower "basket" assembly. The lower portion of fuel pump needs to be positioned first, then you can push down slightly to get top portion to FIT SNUGLY.
Make sure to line up the bottom fuel line when pushing down. If it is not positioned correctly, the WHITE BRACKET COVER TOP will not snap back in correctly. Do not force. You may have to grind some more on the tabs of the pump.

•Replace the top of the fuel pump assembly. Make sure that the tabs snap back in place.

•Replace the fuel level sender until it snaps back in place.

•Replace old gas tank O-Ring with new O-Ring.

•Reposition sender assembly over gas tank by rotating it correctly over mounting.

•Slowly lower seat assembly over gas tank and O-Ring. There should be no resistance or fuel hose may be kinked underneath. Refasten/torque the SIX 8mm BOLTS to specifications over the RING bracket.

•Reconnect the 2 hoses and HOSE CLAMPS to assembly top. If you mistakenly swap these, the engine will not start. They should line up the proper fuel line as one is shorter than the other.

•Reconnect the 2 ELECTRICAL HARNESSES.

•Refasten the TOP COVER.

•Reconnect ground on car battery.

•Start car amd check for any fuel leaks. If you have any you will know immediately. (you may want to drive a round a little with the windows open to air it out)

•Replace REAR SEAT.

 

How far down do those tabs need to be grinded? Are those tabs hollow?

 

thank you!! =]

 

very nice write up....
Are there any visuals to come along with it?

 

Hard to get visuals on mods like this because of the fuel that will be over your hands and you dont want to be touching your camera after that.

 

Guys, you might want to ask around but for the pre 2k2s, I know there were issues with getting proper pressure at WOT and there is not really a good explanation why. I think Kev knows a little more info possibly. I had bought the same pump for the 200 shot I am currently working on...but I think with the 2k2 fuel system, I am gonna give the stocker a shot just to see what will happen. If I have to try the Walbro, I may...but I really want to see what the resolution is for the FP problem the other 5th gens are having. Your best bet may actually be to get an inline booster pump as others have.

 

That's LatinMax's writeup

 

Thanks.
No I did not get any pics when I was doing it. Sorry. But if someone wants to take pics while they do it I will add the pics to my write-up.

DOM: you have to grind them down almost flush and they are not hollow.

 

this inline booster pump....how does it work?

How will it keep the fuel comming at a constant rate into the nozzle?

 

Inline booster pump is the like the stillen sells with their supercharger kit. But that one it only turns on when you go WOT. But it is basically the same as doing the intank walbro 255lph pump mod.

Dixit

 

So you dont need an FPR?

and how does it provide a boost of fuel at wot?
Does it store fuel in the pump?

Becuase it would give ou a nice boost, but the flow from the stock pump would exhaust, right?

 

With any boost application you need an FPR to regulate the fuel pressure since you need more fuel at boost levels. Obviously the easiest way on our max is to raise the fuel pressure from 43psi at WOT to higher when you start boosting. That is what the FPR does for you.

The fuel pump wheather it is inline booster pump or a walbro 255lph intank, it provides a good 90psi of fuel pressure. The stock pump cant put out more than 50psi i think. Not enough when you start boosting.

Basically put, if you are doing this as a mod for NA, there is ZERO advantage, if anything worse cause it will lower your gas mileage a bit cause it will raise the fuel pressure a tad and that means wasting fuel a bit more.

 

well..in the 2k2, on my gauge it reads 52 at normal driving, wot is about 48,

I just put my 100 shot in and havent tried it yet, if fuel pressure falls, ill need this pump..

what do you think I should set the fpr to if I need it?

And the injectors wont spray too much fuel becuase of the higher pressure right?

THanks dixit

 

Well with a 100shot you will definetely need a booster fuel pump or intank walbro 255lph, no way when you are spraying the 100shot the stock fuel pump is going to keep up, i wont be concrete on it, but I think Matt (SR20den) might agree or disagree.

The FPR depends on what you use, but 100shot im thinking 8:1 disc if you using the Vortech fpr. Too much fuel would be a problem say if you put in a 10:1 or 12:1 disc in.

I dont know if you want to be spraying the 100shot on the stock pump, you might be running the risk of running very lean. Keep an eye on Fuel Pressure as well as EGT's or A/F gauge.

Dixit

 

oh i definetly will...
Ill have my eye on the egt and mainly the fuel pressure looking for a drop
Im pretty sure the pump can hold a 100 shot for a good run before it exhausts

thanks!

 

dixit,
do you know what brand booster pump that will suit my needs?

Thanks

 

You know, I just noticed that you are running a wet kit. All this time I thought you were running a dry kit. You just might be able to get away with the stock fuel pump. It can probably get as high as 65psi if you push it. I would try that first.

If it dont work, then get an inline walbro 255lph pump. Model GSL392. Or you can go more expensive and get the T-Rex inline fuel pump.

Dixit

 

ya, im pretty sure it woll hold nicely....but knowing me...ill want the 125 and 150 shot pretty soon

i dont want to touch the fuel system back there...i would rather go with the booster pump that matt, sr20 has

what are your thoughts?

 

Then go with either the GSL392 walbro or a Trex depending on your budget.

 

like this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2416982297

could this be mounted in the engine bay?

 

Yeap thats a Trex pump alright. Will work in the engine bay.

Dixit