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2001 Cold start problem ??

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Old 01-26-2001 | 11:55 PM
  #1  
max2k1SE's Avatar
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Folks:

Having a strange problem with my 2001 SE - Auto
It seems to have trouble starting after its been parked for the day --- not just overnite
I see that I need to crank the engine 3 or 4 times both early in the morning and also at evening when I get back from work ( and that is about 9 pm - my work sucks - thats a different story ! )

When i crank the engine shows life - as in not dead - but it does not "vrroom" --

Is this normal ? I guess not, coz my wife's car ( a honda ) has never had this problem.

My Max has only 2k miles and I always use 92 octane gas - also my commute is about 15 miles one way = so its not like i hardly drive the car ??

Am worried - any suggestions/help/advice ?

Thanks much !
Old 01-27-2001 | 12:10 AM
  #2  
PKO's Avatar
PKO
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My 2001 SE auto has 1000 miles and I haven't had that problem...yet. I don't think it's normal but I live in Southern California where it doesn't usually get that cold. See your dealer?
Old 01-27-2001 | 12:15 AM
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max2k1SE's Avatar
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Nope - not taken to the dealer yet -- been noticing this for a week....

Am in Northern CA - gets cold - but not that much !! 40's to 50's -

Wanted to make sure i get a feel for this problem so that i can explain it to the dealer -- and am wondering how will i get the car to a "cold" state -- maybe leave it at the dealer overnight ??
Old 01-27-2001 | 12:33 AM
  #4  
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yes... its VERY common... most of us

have had this problem. it will mostly disappear by 6K. (has for most). Also, if you are a previous honda owner, its worse. The honda starts with a tap. you have to drag the maxima starter alittle longer. I took my car back twice for this, nothing was found... but from the Service Manual, they told me that the 1st Cylinder needs to fire before the car will start and that the time to completely rotate the crank is longer than on a 4cyl, hence the honda will start faster than the max.

also, something is up with that sitting for a few hours. From what I gather in my inquires, it could be leaving the engine alittle rich when you shut down... even tho the gauge reads normal, the engine and emissions are not really completely warmed up, so its still running rich when you shut down..... fouling the plug on startup.

like I said, it should get better... you can use the search feature to find more about this here.. it comes up once or twice a week.
Old 01-27-2001 | 05:41 AM
  #5  
wdave's Avatar
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Posts: 722
Originally posted by max2k1SE
Folks:

Having a strange problem with my 2001 SE - Auto
It seems to have trouble starting after its been parked for the day --- not just overnite
I see that I need to crank the engine 3 or 4 times both early in the morning and also at evening when I get back from work ( and that is about 9 pm - my work sucks - thats a different story ! )

When i crank the engine shows life - as in not dead - but it does not "vrroom" --

Is this normal ? I guess not, coz my wife's car ( a honda ) has never had this problem.

My Max has only 2k miles and I always use 92 octane gas - also my commute is about 15 miles one way = so its not like i hardly drive the car ??

The car starts easier with mileage - I suspect it's a break - in thing - friction when new makes it crank a little slower. If this problem persists after 5-6k I would be suspicious of the check valve in the fuel system - it is supposed to hold pressure after shutdown.

Dave

Am worried - any suggestions/help/advice ?

Thanks much !
Old 01-27-2001 | 07:24 AM
  #6  
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 489
I have a 2001 SE in manual that does a similar thing, I think... After I drive to work or home from work, sometimes when I start the car up shortly after the starter cranks and cranks, but the engine doesn't fire. When I stop trying the starter and wait a few seconds and then try again it usually fires on or about the second turn. I've also tried what the owners manual says and push the gas pedal in when I start the car after this happens. Usually though, my car starts with no problem.

I however am in Ohio, where the weather has been somewhat cold and then really cold, and then somewhat cold again. This usually only happens when it seems to be the coldest out, although it doesn't always -- I think it's happened 3 times in the two months that I've had the car. I'm no expert, but TimW's explanation sounds reasonable. Although, why would pushing the manual suggest the gas pedal to help?
Old 01-27-2001 | 07:55 AM
  #7  
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From: South Jersey
Slow start

I have the 95 max and 2000 I30. The drive to work is 6 miles and the car will sit for 10 hrs. Live in NJ and does get cold in the winter. These cars always start after turning the key for 2 seconds!

You should try a different brand of gas (I only use 93 Shell for the past 8 years since it is next to my office)and I would suggest synthetic oil since it has better flow on cold starts.

If that doesn't work, take it to the dealer since the slow start may not be normal.
Old 01-27-2001 | 10:37 AM
  #8  
Oiprocs
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I never...

...experienced the cold start problem. It has been pretty cold this winter in NYC (well under freezing some days) and it has always started almost instantly, on the first crank, with the typical "VROOOM" that you guys talk about. I've never had the problem with shifting into drive or reverse with the idle drop in the cold either. BUT I didn't post something about the starting after the car is fully warmed up and driven for an hour or longer. Other people said they have the same problem. You try and start the car after it has been sitting only a few mintes (no longer than an hour) and it doesn't quite catch on, almost seems like it's not going to start, hesitates then catches on with no "VROOOM". Haven't experienced it much lately but did experience it the other day. Hope it goes away but since it BARELY happens I haven't bothered to ask the dealer about it yet because I know how those things go. I would though, ask the dealer about the cold start thing because fuel injected cars should NOT take 3-4 times to crank over, even in the coldest of weather (unless your battery is far from full power.)
Old 01-28-2001 | 12:55 AM
  #9  
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its not really a temp thing...

the idle drop problem is... but the difficulty starting will occur in the middle of summer @ 115 degrees. Its simply a fouling issue and getting used to cranking the max about a second longer than you would on a honda. If I let off the starter before its fired, theres a good chance it wont start easy..

If you are having this alot... and you can reproduced it easily.. and can be without the car for a few days while they 'let it sit' then try to start it.. then by all means, take it back to the dealer. Most people who have had this just couldnt get it to happen at the dealer. My car passed the diag twice. If you dont have a 'check engine' light, then there probably arent going to be any error codes for the dealer to download.

You'd be crazy to take our words for it and not take it to the dealer. I think its best if Nissan hears from us on this anyway. All I'm saying is dont be too upset if they say its normal (or to 'spec') or cant find anything wrong. Actually, be as upset as you like but at least you know you arent the only one.
Old 01-29-2001 | 05:45 AM
  #10  
gtobynj
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Starts OK But...

My Max starts no problem at all, but runs like a dog for the first mile or two. The main issue is that the throttle response is very "uneven", as in if I am moving along nicely at say 50mph and then begin to climb a hill, so give it a little more gas to maintain speed, as I push down on the pedal the car will shunt, take my foot back of and it shunts again. This sometimes happens when it is warm too.

Old 01-29-2001 | 10:08 AM
  #11  
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From: sarasota FL
Its the Fuel cut-off

Someone mentioned about how hard it is to maintain speed. The fuel cuts off for emissions reasons. Other people have experienced this and is very normal. It does get anoyying but I find it useful when I am traveling on a snow covered or ice packed road. The fuel cuts and the engine slows down and I don't have to apply any brake pressure. It keeps my car stable and the rear end doesn't veer.

What you people with the start problems can do is:

-insert your key
-put it the on position (or whatever the position is when the warning lights on your instrument panel are illuminating)
-wait 5-10 seconds for the fuel pump to pump fuel into the engine
-crank the engine and it should start easier.
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