Ha I love old threads, they seem so new when you read them until yo look at the date. BTW just make a scratch mark on the opposite side where the full line is so it doesn't matter what side you look at. My max takes 5.5 quarts to hit the full mark.

 

Maybe try scuffing the end of the dipstick with something like 240-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Just the back side may be all you need to do, along with a couple of scratched lines for "Full" and "Add". Fresh oil on a dipstick that has any shine at all really can be hard to read, as there may not be much difference between the shine on the stick and the nearly clear wetness that you're looking for.

Failing in that, you can use a "touch" method if you can make the stick really "dry" before checking. Run your thumbnail down the stick until you peel up some liquid with it.


Those of you having problems now - just wait until you get a little older.


Norm

 

let it sit for a while pull it out slowly works for me idk why maximas have such crappy dip sticks

 

Never a dull day with a Max

 

5.5 quarts? are you using a bucket as the filter?

 

I would say Nissan dipstick is little bit unique to other brands. But still it isn't hard to check the dipstick, best time to check it is when the engine is cold. Pull out the dipstick slowly and you don't even have to pull out all the way to see the level mark...

 

think with your dipstick

 

I know this is an old thread, but how hard can it be is correct.
This is what I do and never have a problem.
Pull the dipstick and wipe it off. Drain oil. Put Dipstick Back In! Fill with 3.5 liters, (or 4 US quarts), start engine, run for 30 sec. or so and shut down. Wait 20 min. Pull stick and wipe. Reinsert and check level. Add estimated amount and wait another 20 min. and re-check.
A PIA and obviously not something a "quick lube" will do, but it works perfect for me and me engine is always right on the full mark when I'm done an oil change.
I'm also happy to report that 5K kilometers, (3K miles), later when I change it again, it's only down about 3/16" from full.

 

The 3.2L I6 on my BMW takes 7qts, and I believe Porsche 6 cylinders take 8+ qts. Its all about the design of the engine / oil pan / oil system.

7 year old thread revival FTW. Also yeah the 5.5 gen's dipstick sucks. At least make the delta between full and add longer.

 

A Nissan master tech told me that youre on most Nissan v6's youre supposed to wait like 20-30 minutes after running the motor to get an accurate reading on the dipstick im not sure about other Nissan v6's but it seems like it holds true on the 3.5 because if you check after running it, its not accurate at all. Just did an oil change on my buddy's 03 Honda Accord with the 2.4 4cyl and it took over 5 quarts of oil seemed like alot for a 4 cylinder even more than the maxima...

 

It takes time for the last of the oil that gets pumped up into the cam covers to drain back down, and several minutes is kind of a normal minimum amount of time to wait. Just to state the obvious, you don't have to wait quite as long if the oil is hot than if it is still cold (as it would be after just backing the car out of the garage on most any January day here in the Northeast).

I've built a few engines and have to give props for things associated with oiling and engine longevity to Honda on this one. And apparently for the rather special break-in oil that you aren't supposed to change out too soon (has extra ZDDP in it).

FWIW, my '08 Mustang GT's 4.6 liter motor takes 6 qts, maybe a little bit more.

Only four and change does seem a bit light for either the Max's 3.0L or the 626's 2.5L V6. But it's still a case of "so far, so good" at somewhere north of 90,000 miles for the Max and 110,000-ish for the Mazda.


Norm

 

i have a 2003 and have yet to try the dipstick i am giong to try tomorrow

 

You should be tryin' that dipstick on a regular basis-like once a week.

 

many people think bigger engine = bigger oil sump. not true.
think of this way, its a V6 so the engine looks like Y, the sump only has a length of a 3 cylinder engine no more than a 4 cylinder engine, same with V8's
a V12 would be close to some big L6.

 

That's true one of the drain back holes is next too or over the dipstick and it takes a little time to return that excess oil to the pan and it's draining all over the dipstick..... remember don't think with your DIPSTICK!

 

is that why my 5.7L takes 6.5qts and the 7.0 takes 8qts?

 

Beyond some volume required to minimize the concentration of contaminants held in suspension, sump capacity should generally correspond to displacement, at least if the use/performance intent for the engines being compared is similar.

In addition to providing lubrication, oil also provides a coolant function for surfaces not in direct contact with the coolant (pistons, rods, bearings, crank, valvetrain and the top(s) of the cylinder head(s), crankcase surfaces of the block, etc.). More displacement, more power, and using more of it all imply that a greater oil volume should exist. Otherwise, oil temperature will rise in order to be able to reject that greater amount of heat out through the pan (and in some cases, a separate oil cooler).


Norm

 

Its not just nissan, its almost every car. That's why you see mechanics slide the dipstick through a rag when they pull out it out initially.

 

The VQ35DE does have an oil cooler. Maybe that's why they can get away with less oil volume.

 

No, that's to wipe off the oil that's been splashed around the crank onto the dipstick.
The problem with the 5.5gens is the oil drain back that continously drips onto the upper surface of the dipstick, at a point just above where the proper level reading is.

 

THIS SHOULD OF BEEN A FACTORY RECALL

 

I don't have a problem reading the dipstick. My problem is the oil level continues to drop lower on the dipstick every two weeks.

 

Recalls are for safety and sometimes reliability issues. This is just a time/convenience one.

If it is in fact due to a badly located oil drainback hole in the main engine castings (the block and at least one head), what would you suggest be done as a reasonable 'fix' that could be accomplished at the dealership level? (Hint: revising the engine castings or adding external plumbing probably aren't reasonable options.)




I think my hearing is starting to come back a little now.


Norm

 

Today hasn't been a bad day but, after almost shearing the oil filter off removing it it hasn't been a great day. finally got annoyed after waiting and wiping that my dip stick was reading 3 gallons over. glad i'm not the only one. guess i'll start reading the back. maybe i'll get some punched and mark the min and max lines of the back of the dip stick as well.

 

I don't know why so many people have an issue. I know it can be hard to read when it's new, clear oil, but if you measure out how much came out, you know exactly how much to put in. Better yet, start with 4 quarts. Even if it's low, it's not low enough to cause any issues.

 

As subway said - pour in 4qts and let it settle for 5 mins. Check the dipstick. You probably will need a little more, so add a little more. If you just pour in what the manual says, its possible you are adding too much - there could still be some oil left in the engine thats trapped and not draining because of how the car is jacked up and positioned - that scenario would perfectly explain why the dipstick is hard to read.

 

It's funny that people have been b^itching about the crappy dipstick on these cars since day one lol. I only check it first thing in the morning since it's smeared to hell with oil every other time. I also just throw in 4.5 qts after an oil change. Easy-peasy and the slight overfill means I don't have to check the level as often.