Quick Question?? has anyone ever replaced their Highbeam lights with the Xenon lights??? I love the regular Xenon lights but would love to have the same effect/brightness with the highbeams as well.

Thanks

Jeff

 

You's Have to change the Wattage coming thru the harness. HID = 35W 9005 = 55W. I looked into this a while back. If you can find a 9005 to HID conversion kit, you could theoretically do it. I dunno about the wattage though....

 

I've done it with my 03 it looks great since the color matches the HID better

 

did you change your high beams with real HIDs or the PIAA or another brand xenon bulbs?

pics?

 

The different input voltage doesn't matter. The HID ballast/burner only draw 35W, while the 9005 draw 55W. There is nothing to change.

Why anyone would want to spend $350+ on HID high beams is beyond me UNLESS the reflector was changed and you could run a 9004(9006?) and have DUAL low beams.

Honestly, unless you have a mechanical high/low HID setup, the lag between off/on would not be ideal, since you couldn't QUICKLY switch for flashing or seeing something up ahead IMO.

 

tecman4: What kit did you use.

IceY2k1: The voltage isnt the issue, its the Wattage. The bulbs are only rated for 35w. So if you attach the harness w/ 55W coming thru, you will fry the bulb. HID's can be switched on and off rapidly, the ones on my 03 flash when I use the high beams when the lights are off. Thing is, they wont be up to temperature and will be very blue.
Also, short bursts of "ON" and "OFF" will shorten the life of the bulb significantly. But since you wont be doing it too often, it probably wont matter.

 

Voltage = wattage. 35W is the draw NOT output. It's what drops across the burner. If the OEM wiring/system supplies 55W then 35W is less load. Basically, the HIDs will only draw/use 35W vs. 55W NOT run at 55W. How do you think all of us are running 2K2 HIDs off our 2K1 electrical system? The burner/ballast will only use what it needs, which is 35W. Kind of like when you plug an electrical device into your wall socket at home. Your wall socket can provide MUCH more voltage/current then your nightlight can handle(vs. a hairdryer), but the nightlight only uses what it needs.

Yes, the HID's try to flash, but it's not very effective, since the color is a less visible wavelength(higher K) and the ballast is drawing all the current so the burners aren't outputting normal operating levels of lumens.

 

Never mind. I type too slow. Ice already said what I had to say

 

 

Home electrical sockets utilize 110V, which can probably kill you, not Watt. So how can voltage = wattage, if I understand you correctly that is?

Volt - a unit of electric potential and electromotive force, equal to the difference of electric potential between two points on a conducting wire carrying a constant current of one ampere when the power dissipated between the points is one watt.

Watt - a unit of power equal to 1 joule per second; the power dissipated by a current of 1 ampere flowing across a resistance of 1 ohm

 

Figure of speech, 12V input voltage produces 35W output across the filtament.

35W vs. 55W is a difference in OUTPUT. No need to change anything on the input side, since their both rated for 12V systems(actually 14.4V or whatever the alternator puts out).

 

Got it

 

for the Tele-Zapper.

 

Haha, its actually Tesla Zapper, which is another unit of magnetic flux density , you probably know the Tesla Coils from Red Alert?

 

Basically, the device determines the draw..not the power going in (that's actually why they call it "draw"). It all runs at 12 volts (well, more like 14.4 at full capacity). If the device you have draws more capacity that's when you have to worry. The wires might not be able to handle the extra juice and melt (think of it like running 1000 PSI of water through a garden hose - boom).

You see the same effect when you've got a high wattage amplifier on a stereo system. The lights will dim because the amp is pulling more power than the alternator can provide and is robbing the other devices (the lights are the most obvious).

 

:EE dork:

 

theres no need to have your high beems at the HID level of the low beams. its a waste of time and money. who's gonna sit there and wow over your HID high beams. bother with other things for the moment

 

Forgot about the ballasts...... sorry