2000 Maxima brakes suck!!!!
#1
2000 Maxima brakes suck!!!!
I love my 2000 Maxima and hate to complain about it... But I have had it, I want to whine and get it done with...
I have 40K on my car and when I take long trips my brakes don't function properly ... they stop this monster m/c with great difficulty and with creeking sounds (though there is 7mm left on the pads). There is no problem during normal day-to-day work and home, it is only during summers on long trips when the pads get heated up...
Iam going for Raybestos (QS soln) brake pads for my front wheels ... I thought I seek some opinion before going ahead and installing them.
Later...
I have 40K on my car and when I take long trips my brakes don't function properly ... they stop this monster m/c with great difficulty and with creeking sounds (though there is 7mm left on the pads). There is no problem during normal day-to-day work and home, it is only during summers on long trips when the pads get heated up...
Iam going for Raybestos (QS soln) brake pads for my front wheels ... I thought I seek some opinion before going ahead and installing them.
Later...
#2
Couple things to check-
1. make sure everything's un-stuck (caliper, rotor, etc.) when you change the pads... mine were seized up and the brakes were all ****ed up (soft pedal, severe juddering/vibration, etc., all went away when I changed both the rotors AND pads on the front, used Raybestos rotors & Raybestos QuietStop (model# PGD815AQS) pads on the front)
2. Flush the hydraulic system if the brake fluid's old... could be boiling after heavy braking and causing major brake fade... new fluid should restore the boiling point of the fluid.
BTW, I haven't changed my brake fluid (yet), but after changing the front rotors/pads, the brakes got 200000% better. Firm pedal, very smooth stops. I also did the rears (new rotors, new pads) just to complete the job, as the rears were all rusted out too, but there wasn't much difference with the rears. Alas, it's good to know that it's done. Now it's time to put some synthetic DOT4 brake fluid in there...
Good luck with it. A brake job is worth it for the 2k Max'es -- their stock brakes are horrible.
1. make sure everything's un-stuck (caliper, rotor, etc.) when you change the pads... mine were seized up and the brakes were all ****ed up (soft pedal, severe juddering/vibration, etc., all went away when I changed both the rotors AND pads on the front, used Raybestos rotors & Raybestos QuietStop (model# PGD815AQS) pads on the front)
2. Flush the hydraulic system if the brake fluid's old... could be boiling after heavy braking and causing major brake fade... new fluid should restore the boiling point of the fluid.
BTW, I haven't changed my brake fluid (yet), but after changing the front rotors/pads, the brakes got 200000% better. Firm pedal, very smooth stops. I also did the rears (new rotors, new pads) just to complete the job, as the rears were all rusted out too, but there wasn't much difference with the rears. Alas, it's good to know that it's done. Now it's time to put some synthetic DOT4 brake fluid in there...
Good luck with it. A brake job is worth it for the 2k Max'es -- their stock brakes are horrible.
#3
I guess I am a little surprised by this thread. I just got my 2000 GLE a couple months ago. It has about 50k miles on it and I think the brakes are incredible. There is no vibration, the pedal is very firm, and the car stops with very little effort at all. The first time my wife drove the car she almost gave me whiplash when she stopped the first time. Since I dont know the service history, I guess I dont know for sure what brakes are on the car right now, but the rest is stock so I am just assuming they are stock too, but the only thing I have been in that stopped like this was my old Mitsubishi Starion.
#5
The brakes suck because of the heat. I live in FL and during the summer the brakes would fade into oblivion at anything but putting around. I swapped to stillen pads and they now kick major *** on the highway and in the city.
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