do i need new SPARK PLUGS?
08-12-2003, 11:53 AM
#1
do i need new SPARK PLUGS?
in my continuing quest for cheap horsepower...i've come to the spark plug question.
do i need new ones? i have a 2000 GXE with about 42k miles. will new plugs make a difference?
if so, which ones should i buy? copper or platinum? hot or cold - what is all that about?
how much do the plug usually cost? what kind? from where should i buy them?
is this something i can install myself? how difficult of an install is it (tools required)? anyone know where i can find a "how-to"? how much would it cost for a dealership to do it?
someone educate me on this spark plug stuff! thanks in advance.
do i need new ones? i have a 2000 GXE with about 42k miles. will new plugs make a difference?
if so, which ones should i buy? copper or platinum? hot or cold - what is all that about?
how much do the plug usually cost? what kind? from where should i buy them?
is this something i can install myself? how difficult of an install is it (tools required)? anyone know where i can find a "how-to"? how much would it cost for a dealership to do it?
someone educate me on this spark plug stuff! thanks in advance.
![][ 35's Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23915f9f' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>]</text></svg>)
08-12-2003, 04:02 PM
#3
It'll cost you about $800 for the dealer to change the plugs (that's why the OEM plugs last up to 100K miles), and you can't do them yourself because you have to remove both heads to get to them. Also, don't get Copper or Platinum, get Plastic/silicon spark plugs. Revolutionary new technology in spark delivery--the silicon's high-impedance properties allow for low-loss transfer of secondary current without interfering with the electron spin of the burning fuel in adjacent cylinders. Very good stuff, although the dealer may charge you $200 more for them.
Just kidding
Just kidding
08-12-2003, 10:33 PM
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 21
The spark plug question. I'm not sure if anyone really answered your questions in some detail, but I will give it a try from what I can remember.
New spark plugs will make a little difference if your original plugs are not too badly worn already. Each time your plugs fire a little bit of the electrode (the center part) becomes eroded. Over time it becomes rounded and the gap widens. This will increase the voltage requirement to fire the plug. If left long enough, the plug will misfire typically while driving at highway speeds when you require power to pass of something equally annoying.
The origin of platinum plugs comes from World War II when England required a plug that would have an extended heat range (possibly for their V12 Merlins which also found their way into P-51s). The electrodes at the time could be incandescent (light like ordinary light bulb) yet retain their shape and burn off fouling deposits. Porsche owners years ago imported Lodge H-NP plugs to solve their fouling problem. The platinum plugs were developed before projected ceramic nose plugs could be manufactured.
If you are not modifying your car too much (like supercharger, turbo, nitrous, etc.) I would stick with the plugs that came with the car. For our cars they are the NGK platinums; I don't have the specific part number, but you can see the FAQs.
Hot or cold? This essentially is talking about the heat range of the plug. What this means is that we are looking for a plug that will give a smooth idle, yet not foul up during city driving and run cool enough on the highway without pre-detonation. You can look up projected nose plug and its development. You may require a slightly cooler plug higher power applications to prevent pre-detonation like your engine blowing up.
Some people used to index their plugs. What this does is line of the back of the J part of the plug to the incoming fuel/air mixture so as not to "blow out" the spark. It is probably not much of a concern these days, but when high energy ignition systems were not as common as today this could have given just enough of an edge. A mark would be placed on the exposed ceramic part of the plug and shims put in place to get the correct relative position of the valves and the J part of the plug.
I hope this has been some useful information. You may also want to look up the development of resistance plugs, but these days it is common and not thought about much.
New spark plugs will make a little difference if your original plugs are not too badly worn already. Each time your plugs fire a little bit of the electrode (the center part) becomes eroded. Over time it becomes rounded and the gap widens. This will increase the voltage requirement to fire the plug. If left long enough, the plug will misfire typically while driving at highway speeds when you require power to pass of something equally annoying.
The origin of platinum plugs comes from World War II when England required a plug that would have an extended heat range (possibly for their V12 Merlins which also found their way into P-51s). The electrodes at the time could be incandescent (light like ordinary light bulb) yet retain their shape and burn off fouling deposits. Porsche owners years ago imported Lodge H-NP plugs to solve their fouling problem. The platinum plugs were developed before projected ceramic nose plugs could be manufactured.
If you are not modifying your car too much (like supercharger, turbo, nitrous, etc.) I would stick with the plugs that came with the car. For our cars they are the NGK platinums; I don't have the specific part number, but you can see the FAQs.
Hot or cold? This essentially is talking about the heat range of the plug. What this means is that we are looking for a plug that will give a smooth idle, yet not foul up during city driving and run cool enough on the highway without pre-detonation. You can look up projected nose plug and its development. You may require a slightly cooler plug higher power applications to prevent pre-detonation like your engine blowing up.
Some people used to index their plugs. What this does is line of the back of the J part of the plug to the incoming fuel/air mixture so as not to "blow out" the spark. It is probably not much of a concern these days, but when high energy ignition systems were not as common as today this could have given just enough of an edge. A mark would be placed on the exposed ceramic part of the plug and shims put in place to get the correct relative position of the valves and the J part of the plug.
I hope this has been some useful information. You may also want to look up the development of resistance plugs, but these days it is common and not thought about much.
08-13-2003, 07:29 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 131
That was a great answer btw...
As for if he needs them... then answer I would bet is No
My father has a 97 Max GLE with 90K on it, with original plugs. He needs plugs probably and will get them soon.
I think Nissan has them on the maintance schedule at 95K or 100K b.c they're plats.
at 42K there should be no reason you need plugs
As for if he needs them... then answer I would bet is No
My father has a 97 Max GLE with 90K on it, with original plugs. He needs plugs probably and will get them soon.
I think Nissan has them on the maintance schedule at 95K or 100K b.c they're plats.
at 42K there should be no reason you need plugs
08-13-2003, 04:38 PM
#7
][ 35: i have read the FAQ pages, several times actually...and i found them very informative, thanks!
[note to self]: "just because he drives a maxima, doesn't mean he's not a *******."
thanks to those who gave real answers!
[note to self]: "just because he drives a maxima, doesn't mean he's not a *******."
thanks to those who gave real answers!
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