What exactly does the trans. mod do?

 

Full line pressure for trans fluid or something
quicker shifts 1st and 2nd and 3rd walk out to your car and try it. All you have to do is plug it back in if you don't like it ... You will get an SES light

 

Thanks, I'll try it. What's an SES light? Will it go away when I plug it back in?

 

SES=Service Engine Soon

 

service engine light ... All you need to do is reset your ecu instructions are on my site

 

Just to let you guys know, increasing line pressure does also increase the temp of the fluid.

 

Where is it? Will it hurt the trans??? I've got a tranny cooler in mine so the temp won't be an issue... or will it? Thanks.

 

it works a lot better then a cone in the bay anyway spend more then 5min doing it and make it look good as for the frog spend 1$ more and get a screen for it

 

I got what felt (butt-dyno style) like a decent amount of extra power (especially at high speeds) by disconnecting the ramscoop entirely, letting the IAT and "BOOST" sensors hang by their harnesses, with a K&N drop-in filter. Now all I need is a big funnel/horn fitted over the air cleaner opening and I'm in business
RAM-AIR WAI!

 

That is very similar to my intake setup. I used 3" dryer conduit in my 1st version. I have since gone to ver. 2.0 and use a "rigid" 4" dryer conduit that looks much better and is much more durable. Here are some pics of my ver. 1.1 with the 3" conduit. I can attest to the better gas mileage and torque. Before I made this mod I could barely get a squeak out of the tires off of the line, now I can light 'em up. Version 1.1 is ugly, but the latest version looks much better.





Also, to get the most effect out of your new intake, plug up the stock intake with foam like so:



This does 2 things. #1 it ONLY gets colder air. #2 if you ever drive thru high water (I have several times) the engine vaccume pulls the foam into the filter box and you do not have to worry about water ingestion. (don't make it a point to go driving thru puddles!)

BTW, your air filter will get EXTREEMLY dirty with this type of setup. Pull out your air filter and tap all the crap out of it every 2-3 fill ups with gas.

 

How much?!?!
don't want to kill my car

 

Well....340 psi give or take a few

In a way its better for the tranny to shift faster, but I dont know about leaving it on all the time. I loved how the shifts were be4, I got to the point were I knew were to let off just a little so it doesnt shift too harsh from 1-2 but after 3-4 months with it unclipped, the tranny was making some weird ticking noises. So I plugged it back in, It doesnt slip in any way, and it shift just fine (just slower now) but I do still unplug it when I go to the track. It would be better to just have a switch for it, flip the switch for when your gonna race, and go back to cruise. As for the heat issue, well I went for a few months but I still say its a good idea to get a hayden 404 tranny cooler just to be on the safe side. Just my .02

 

Its mounted on the drivers side strut tower, behind the air-box. Little plug, takes just 2sec to give it a try, but you will get an SES light.

 

I thought you had an Injen???

What did you do now??? Just take the whole thing off??

 

He went with the GAB.

 

got a pick of where exactly this plug for the is...or can you discribe it better for me (color, size, etc, etc)?

so this is something i could SAFELY do for short periods of time (when racing or driving around WOT)?

does the SES light go OFF when you plug it back in?

 

Copy/paste this link in your browser for a pic:
http://www.nissanx.net/gall/alb/album24/1_G.jpg

It's good for the tranny, but i would say it's bad for the mounts if you're not careful. You'll see what i mean when you try it out.

The SES light will not go off when you plug it back in, you'll have to reset your ECU for that.

 

Color: Light Greyish, Size: apprx 1/2" wide 2.5" long while plugged in.
Its fairly small.

Like soundmike just said, its safe for short periods. Since your tranny shifts gears quicker, there is a tremendous reduction of slippage from the granny shifting auto.
If your out at the track, then go 4 it. It like a cheap VB mod. Jime with his 4th gen just unplugs his and runs a 150+ shot of n20 and has hit a 12.1 at 110 with only this thing unplugged. The 4th gen tranny however (auto) is alot stronger then the 5th gen for some reason so I personally still wouldnt push it to that extreme.
Like I said b4, you could tap a switch that blocks the ground/positive off and run it to the inside of the car. If you want to race, flip the switch and have at it. Unless you want to stop at a light, pop your hood and unplug it... well thats up to you.

One other thing you will realize, the o/d off light will flash for 3-5sec after you start the car.

 

cool...thanks for the pic soundmike!

 

am i correct that the only ways us 2k owners can reset our esu after doing this to by unplugging the negative battery cable for a few hours?

 

now back to the orignal topic! i think i'm going to try something ghetto like this intake.

Don...so, you just bypassed your intake silencer (and the elbow that went from it to the intake)? did you close up the orignal intake in any way...or do you just have the air coming in from both sources?

and you didn't have to do anything special with the maf sensors or anything...the ECU just resets itself/adjust to the new amount of extra air flow? this will NOT damage the engine in any way, right?

what are your thoughts on doing this AND the thingy that you cut a slot in the top of the airbox. GAB, i think it is called. worth doing both or them together?

and noise...i'd like some more noise! wonder which gives the most sound factor - ghetto intake, the opening in the airbox, or both?

 

GAB??? Help me here Steve-0....its early.

Gutter Air Box???

 

Ghetto Air Box, you basically hack holes off the top of the filter holder on the stock airbox

 

no gutters in my engine bay. Hack off half of your filter holder and you have a GAB.

 

Bottom...Side...Top???

 

top. where the filter goes in. pull your filter out and and look at the plastic piece on the top. there is a piece that will be in front of the filter, about an inch worth. cut that off and more air gets in.
god thats hard to explain. someone help me out here. i know someone has a picture of it.

 

Following the instructions above, do that to the part of that's outlined red in the photo.

 

the part with the metal clips hack off the front half of that..it will expose about 1/2-3/4" of open filter which allows more air in. Also I would plug the hole in the bottom of the box behind the filter. Right now I have it covered with duct tape

 

I wouldn't do a GAB, but maybe instead of just cutting it off put a spring loaded "flap" in it's place that would operate like the variable capacity muffler on the AE's. Or maybe a actuator that activates when the intake runners switch to the short path...just some ideas.

 

ahhhh Thanks.

Is it better than an Intake?? Performance wise?

My Frankentake kept blowing MAF's so I put the stock one back on.

 

My track times have seemed to stay the same...well actually improve a little but I have a few more miles on the clock now too. I will be dynoing Oct 11th to see if I can beat my puny 211hp 224tq with the addition of rear section and swapped Intake for GAB. It will be a different dyno so I guess I can't really compare but we will see.

 

Sounds good.....keep me posted.

 

go get an OBDII code reader, and reset the codes. Its like 130 bucks.

 

Blu...how does it sound?

Is it more like a ....badger badger badger sound.

Or a ....Snnnnnnaaaaaake Sound??

 

!({ARGH})! aaaaaaaaaa snaaaaaake aaaaaaaa snaaaaaaaaake ohhhhhhh isssss aaaaaaaaaa snake

it gives the car a little more grunty sound but 10 times quieter than a pop charger.

 

gra$$ya$$

 

GAB is NOT going to give the amount of cold forced air as my Gutter intake!!!

 

Don, here are some questions for you again:

so, you just bypassed your intake silencer (and the elbow that went from it to the intake vent)? did you close up the orignal intake vent thingy in any way...or do you just have the air coming in from both sources?

and you didn't have to do anything special with the maf sensors or anything...the ECU just resets itself/adjust to the new amount of extra air flow? this will NOT damage the engine in any way, right?

what are your thoughts on doing this AND the thingy that you cut a slot in the top of the airbox. GAB, i think it is called. worth doing both or them together?

and noise...i'd like some more noise! what kind of noise to you get with the gutter?

 

now back to the orignal topic! i think i'm going to try something ghetto like this intake.

Don...so, you just bypassed your intake silencer (and the elbow that went from it to the intake)? did you close up the orignal intake in any way...or do you just have the air coming in from both sources?


DON; Yes from the stock air dam on top as well as bypassing the silencer and pulling air from the bottom of the car with the Gutter


and you didn't have to do anything special with the maf sensors or anything...the ECU just resets itself/adjust to the new amount of extra air flow? this will NOT damage the engine in any way, right?


DON; I just disconected my battery over night

what are your thoughts on doing this AND the thingy that you cut a slot in the top of the airbox. GAB, i think it is called. worth doing both or them together?


DON; I would NOT cut my air box ... just pulling hot air in ... the idea here is to get the cool air from out side in

and noise...i'd like some more noise! wonder which gives the most sound factor - ghetto intake, the opening in the airbox, or both?

 

What about 5th?