It was proven with the 350Z runs!!! Read the threads
If you love your car whats 20 bucks to try it yourself
You never know unless YOU try it!!!
Like I said earler my friend did it with his WRX and noticed it ran smother
If I didn't work so damn much it would have had it done on mine!!!

 

Lighten up a little... I don't have to have "proof" as many other people don't either, I've read through most of the posts and belive that a greater majority of the people who have made this mod are pleased with what they "feel" is better performance. It "seems" to me that most of the people on these sites have an above average intellegence level and can come to ther own conclusions about this product. Also, there is no dyno facility near me and if there was I wouldn't go there anyway because if I make this mod and I "feel " that it make my car run better thats enough for me.

 

Come on... you read the threads where I said I'd try it if it was proven. It was not "proven" in the 350z post. All the 350z post said was "SCC dyno'ed a 350z before and after" ... did they do more than one dyno run? Did they then take the kit off and lose the "gains"? There's more to a valid experiment than what was posted. I can adjust my driving to "prove" my car gets better mileage if I redline 1st on every launch but we all know it wouldn't be true.

And I do love my car but I'm not willing to drop $20 on everything that *claims* to gain 3-5hp.

new air filter ($20), hyper-grounding ($20), cut stock airbox (free), remove engine cover (free)... all those claim 3-5hp gains... so you're saying I spend $40 and an hour and I'll have 275hp??

Oh, and since I'm not the one making the claims I'm not the one responsible for proving them.

 

oops, there it is... my proof

 

Cato,
Did you run a ground wire from the battery(-) to a distribution block of some sort. Or did you just run all your ground points to the body of the car. Just curious cuz I have been pondering if I should do this. I saw what you guys did on the G35 forum and it looks like you guys just run wires to a common point and then to the body, instead of directly going back to the
battery(-). Any input? Thanks!

 

See... now that wan't so hard, now don't you feel better.

 

On the G35 and on all Hyper-grounded cars, a Hyper-grounding wire
is attached directly to battery negative. That wire is then
attached to the engine block where typically serveral other
wires are also attached. In the case of my G35, 4 Hyper-grounds
and 2 factory grounds are connected to the block at one point.
Those 3 other Hyper-grounds then go to other factory ground points
or to other engine block points. The Maxima has a Hyper-ground
directly from battery negative to the rear of the intake manifold,
where two other Hyper-grounds are also attached. The two other
HG wires take off to other factory grounds and chassis.

 

cato- How come your paragraphs are narrower than ours? Are you hitting enter a lot? No flame, just curious why it would do that.

 

It's a habit of mine to keep sentences short.
Can't stand scrolling to read email and such.

 

Soooo Cato what you are saying is on my 03 mnaxima there are 5 grounds. Is there a ground to the tranny, and what about the horn? Talk about beating a dead horse... sorry for all the questions, I just need to visualize it in my head. Thanks!!

 

What gauge wire is used? 4?

 

So what does His law have to do with this? We are discussing the relationship of the grounding resistance here. yes the voltage drops and gain will be zero, so what? If you take a look at some of your ground points on the car, guess what they are painted over, THEN ground screws attached. Last time I checked paint is a better insulator, than conductor. So you remove the paint, and put in your ground wire kit. so what? the wires that come from the factory, have a resistance, as do the hyper grounds. Being that the hypergrounds are far thicker, thus they have a lower resistance in them (Ohms law). This lower resistancce allow more noise to be grounded, and I think this is where the gains come from. Less noise to sensors can possibly make the car run smoother. You would not get as many fluctuations in the sensors, and maybe they like that.
And building them cheaper on your own may hinder performance. If you build in a sloppy connector, guess what you may actually increase the ground resistance, and increase the noise around the cars circuit.
Best bet is to take out an ohm meter and run point to point, and get ahyperground wire and measure it's resistance vs. the factory. The gians may also come from the fact that you have cleaned each new terminal point.

Just my .02

 

I had also seen in Turbo magazine jsut recently that the sun ground wire kit added several HP to their test car, they had used them before, and always had good results. On the dyno was around 5 hp gain I believe. I will look for the article, I believe it was an RSX? looking to get 200 dynoed out of it at the wheels.

 

Well the reason that you see gains has allot to do with the grounds having a common grounding point.They are all chained together and go to one point this is the main reason you see gains.I am a mechanical engineer and the "electrical engineer" didn't see that the gain was coming from that.

 

And yes the gains are real it has been confirmed many times on different applications it is a proven mod that has been used for years on race cars.

 

from the 350z forum...

http://www.350zforum.com/tech/groundweb/groundweb.aspx

<quoted>
Before you get excited and rush off to build your own kit or buy one, we must dig a little deeper. All of the 350Zs tested that day had an increase in horsepower between pull 1 and pull 2. But none of the others had an increase of 3%. They averaged 1% to 2%. So in theory the grounding kit added 1% more horsepower. That would equate to almost 3 horsepower.
</quoted>

I might believe that but I'm not spending 30 bucks to find out.

 

I'll buy that for 30 bucks!!! WTF it's only money.

 

Whoa, take it easy! I will try to answer, I'm not merely making empty statements here.

I mention Kirchoff voltage law because you are trying to make sure the loop is closed so that your potential difference around the loop is zero.

We are discussing potential differences at the points they are trying to ground and minimize noise introduction. Gain is a term reserved for amplification.

Do you think if all the grounds were insulated by paint that anything in the car would work? Do you think Nissan engineers are that bad?

Every wire has a resistance/distance [usually spec'd ohm/ft, R= (rho * L )/A ] characteristic, usually in the order of 3ohms per 1000 feet for regular copper or .003 ohm/ft. Do the math, at a few milli/micro volts at best and with those short lengths of wires, do you think that your 4 awg OFC cable will have that superior a characteristic to Nissan's regular copper wire to make non-negligible numbers?

The heat under the hood of the car, probably causes more change in the electrical characteristic of any sensor you refer to, rather than possible noise interference from gnd.

Build quality is purely a personal workmanship thing. I'm sure many ppl here can build cleaner connections than many of these factory assembled units. It is much easier to measure voltages across the point you plan to gnd them?

Please take this contstructively, I was only trying to debunk any auora of magic ppl may think these wires have. You are correct that a ground study of the car could show that it could use some improvement. But there is always room for improvement. The study has to be more precise than grounding various points on the car together with expensive wires.

SHIFT_woosh

 

I'm no expert on Hyper-grounding. What I do know is that
most commercial kits are 5 wire kits. My G35 grounding kit
was developed by Gordon Gee, a fellow G35 owner who has
been developing G35 kits and conducting research about
the subject. The thread on g35driver.com is about 350
posts on the subject. Most people who have bought their
kits from him post their impressions on that thread. The
consensus mirors my observations. Gordon developed an 8
wire kit for the G35. The 7th wire connects directly to
the automatic transmission housing and of course only
benefits those of us with the 5 speed AT. I really
wanted to ground to the wife's Max transmission like I
did to the G35. The G definitly shifts quicker with the
Ground. I believe I identified a point on the Max transmission
to ground to. But the air intake box prevents me from
getting to it easily. If you follow the transmission
fluid dipstick down to the tranny, you can see a bolt
attached to the filler neck. Looks hard as hell to get
to. I would like to run a wire from ground pt. #4 to
this tranny bolt. But WTH, it's my wife's car and
I am too busy having fun with the G35 to worry about it. AS I said
before, there is no factory ground at the bolt under the
Maxima horn. At first I connected wire #1 to that chassis
ground. The next day I noticed the 2 factory grounds next to
the washer filler neck and realized that I should move it there.
Stillen now makes an 8 gauge wire set that must be way
overpriced . My wire set is composed of 4 gauge
wire. Yes, there have been dynos run to measure power and
torque gains. But the real advantage of the Hyper-grounding
is the resultant smooth performance. Most people who do
the grounding don't do it for HP gains. Come on, we can't
feel 1-3 HP when the Nissan power plant cranks out 260 HP
at the flywheel!

 

OK, I get the idea that I should go by the earlier pictures' grounding locations (connect each of those grounds to a central location, say, on the engine itself, then one to the battery) ... should I use any special washers (i.e. the jagged ones)?

I plan to stop by a hardware store sometime in the next couple days to spec out connectors/wire/hardware...

Also, what about the ignition coils--would it be worth it to run some 8-gauge wire to the mounting stud on each coil? Gross overkill?

 

If it makes my car run smoother, or do ANYTHING to make the car run better, in a consistent fashion... it's worth $30 bux to me

 

I recommend you visit g35driver.com and read the thread
on Hyper-gounding. There are instructions on how to make the
kit yourself and even suggestions on places to purchase
the wires and stuff. Good luck!

 

cato -- just read the entire thread on g35driver.com. Good stuff, now I want to buy a crimper and some audio power cable and get to work.

"Stirred up a hornets nest of interest" is correct

Where's the ECU in our cars? I wonder if it'd be worth it to run a wire from the central ground point to the ECU's mounting bolts...
And also, does our O2 sensors have separate power & ground wires, or do they rely on the exhaust system for grounding??
I also thought up another idea--I'm going to manually ground different parts of my engine bay with some wire I already have (touching the grounding points together), to see if I notice any difference (in engine vibration/idle quality), especially any dramatic difference with any one grounding point...

 

how about just wrap it in aluminum foil?

... oops, done already

 

Now remember what your mother said "if you can't say anything constructive, don't say anything at all" Clearly you don't want to take any time to look at the possibilities of this product, so quit busting on it and go find something else to do. I'm interested in what is going on here and on the g35 site and your posts are unwanted distraction.

 

Cato, I looked through almost all the threads and could not find where to buy the parts and instructions for the maxima. Can you give me some assistance please.

 

You're right, I shouldn't have done that... sorry. But it was actually poking a little fun at someone outside this thread.

Anyway... I promise to keep my comments positive if you promise to give an OBJECTIVE view of your results. We are all interested in this so how about, when you're done, you do a write-up specific to maxima that DOES NOT include the words "feel", "seem", or "I know" and try your best to also not use phrases like "engine is smoother" or "starts are better".

Something quantifiable, please.

 

I've seen 3-4 dynos, maybe more, in mags TWO of which were in separate mags on a VQ35 that produced gains PLUS one of our 4th gen. members had a kit specifically made for 4th gens. and dynoed at XS-Engineering. Some of these included MULTIPLE dyno runs to uncover the optimal location, so how do you figure it's simply "dyno variation"? Apparently, there was a measureable difference and it IMPROVED as they moved the grounds to different locations.

The fact that Nissan grounded all over the place vs. having one BIG FAT ground makes me accept that shorter multiple grounds to varying locations are better then one big wire to a single location. We all know OEMs look for the cheapest per 100,000 units solution possible, so there is NO DOUBT the factory ground system while adequate CAN be improved upon. Simply replacing all the factory grounds with oxygen free copper or similar low resistance wiring would decrease the "electrical load" on our cars. Electrical load is a DRAIN on the system, which results in a loss of hp eventually at the alternator. The ECU monitors this "calculated" electrical load at different RPM, so THAT makes me believe it bases some output off of that input. Ignition coils ability to charge/discharge in as short as possible period alone WOULD improve performance and smooth engine operation. If the electrical system load on our cars can be REDUCED by adding a few low resistance ground paths, then it is VERY likely that gains can be found.

All the nay-sayers need to shut-up and wait for the data to come in. The more people that TRY something the more likely the *FACTS* will be uncovered.

 

If someone makes this for an 02 max with auto, I WILL BUY IT!!!

 

I got mine at motorex 15607 s. New Century Drive, Gardena CA 310-523-2233 for 118.50. There was a cheaper one for 98.00 and there are differant colors too. I got s-type silver. My mount points are drivers front by headlight ground and by the fusebox ground [2] to the trans [auto][3]by the front exhaust manifold to the right there is a lg grounding point [4]top left of engine on timing chain cover [5]by alt there is a point there. No dyno noticed a little differance.Hope this helps someome.

 

According to knukonceptz at the g35drivers.com forum, you can
purchase cables at www.knukonceptz.com
Just visited that site and yes, you can get cable there.

The first post by gordgee on the "Hyper-Grounding (Earthing) Kit
Resource Thread" at g35drivers.com has a "Purchase Source Page"
link as well as a "The Hyper-Ground FAQ" link.

I just did a Google search on SCOSCHE and found their web site.
They sell cable. www.scosche.com/efx/products/powercable.asp

As for where are the ground points? I pointed out the ones I used.
The reason I started this thread is that I figured all you Maxima
owners had already figured this out and could help me.

 

Thanks 2k2wannabe. I understand what you are saying and hopefully there will be some more solid evidence in the future.

 

Heh, call me cheap, but I'm going the Home Depot $12 for 30' black 4AWG cable route
$13 crimping tool, and I'm gonna stop by an electronics store on the way home for the lugs/connectors... the Home Depot ones are too expensive and too big.
Then once I get enough connectors, it's time to work.

 

Spirilis, can you take some pic's? If possible put together a DIY process for us all to go by please. I'm sure it would be much appreciated here for the DIY people. I'm planning on doing it by myself also. Thanks again.

 

I will. I do have a digital camera and intend to use it heavily

 

Thanks buddy!!! What year is your car? Mine is a 03 SE.

 

I went to the Home Depot last weekend looking for wires.
Did not fine the 99.99% oxygen free cables. Can you point me
in the right direction?

 

Heh, I don't think they said "oxygen-free". Just for kicks, I did some google searches regarding "oxygen-free" cabling... one person mentioned that most if not all copper wire manufactured is done using the oxygen-free process (?) anyway, and the oxygen-free copper process is more for longevity and low-pressure stability, not for conductivity.
The one thing that sucked about the Home Depot wire, is that it's pretty stiff. Won't be as easy to work with as audio power cable.

 

Will definitely appreciate pics!!

 

I just threw 'oxygen free' out there...I'm sure there is something better by now. Back when I was into BIG stereos, oxygen-free was the best thing available.

I'd buy the best low resistance cable possible...whatever that is nowdays.