Oxygen Free is pretty much a gimmick buzz word nowadays. They are all oxygen free.

I wouldn't use Home Depot wire though, too stiff. You need to use car audio wire. The stranded car audio wire is meant for flexibity and good heat shielding. There were many other threads about this hyper grounding stuff, did anyone dig them up?

Also, any car audio dude will tell you to run some extra ground to chassis when you install big amps. Cuz now you are runnning more power through the same ground wires. If you add 4 awg of power cable comnig from the battery, it only makes sense to add 4 awg of ground to the battery.

I can also see new ground wire helping a car that might have oxidation buildup on their original ground points.

 

I already bought the wire, and I think it'll work (with some bending & wire-tying during the installation). I think some of my posts have a little oxidation build up...

I also noticed some other quirks with my car-- while the sunroof is opening/closing, if I open/close another window (especially the right-side passenger, which seems to move slower than the rest), the pitch of the noise from the sunroof motor reduces until I release the window switch (like the sunroof motor isn't receiving as much voltage). Almost like there's an excessive electrical resistance somewhere in the power delivery to the sunroof/window motors, 'cause running 2 window motors at the same time shouldn't draw THAT much power...! Also, I find it odd that my interior lights sometimes dim when I do that, but my headlights do not.

Wonder if reinforcing the grounds (especially to the relays/fusebox) will fix that. These will be symptoms to examine after the job. If not, are there any major in-cabin chassis points I should consider regrounding? (i.e. running a long 4AWG cable from the central grounding point, through the firewall to a key location inside...)

 

www.KnuKonceptz.com I ordered 4 ga for .99 cents per foot.

 

The guy from z-xtreme e-mailed me today and seid that he was working on a grounding kit for maximas. I'll let you know when he gets back to me.

 

Sweet

 

Mine does that also when rolling down the drivers' window, but ONLY on the passenger front window NOT on any others. I'm taking it in soon to see what they say. My guess is their response will be that my window tint causes extra drag.

 

 

OK. Here it is.... The wife tells me that the 2000 Maxima's
transmission has beed acting funny as of late. Tells me
that when she shifts the automatic from reverse to drive,
sometime it hesitates before grabbing the gear. I take it out
and reverse, drive over and over again. Observe no problems.
Then she tells me that BEFORE I put the 5 wire grounding
kit on the car, the transmission would wait for several
seconds before engaging in drive on occasion. She said that
with the new Hyper-grounding kit, the car does dot do this anymore!
Think I will take it to the dealer. Is it time for transmission
fluid change? Anyway, I thought it was interesting to
hear that one of her observed problems has disappeared
with the addition of the Hyper-grounding kit.

 

cato- Does it still shift somewhat slowly after the hypergrounding? I'd get the fluid changed, but if it still shifts too slowly, there's definitely something mechanically wrong with the tranny...
If it's fine though, go ahead and get the fluid changed (if anything, to remove deposits/worn clutch material/whatever may have accumulated as a result of the horrible shifting)

 

spirillis,

It shifted just fine when I took it for a 12 mile test run.
Drove it about 6 miles to pick up my daughter from piano
lesson. I did a bunch of backup and forwards in the parking
lot and did not notice anyting out of the ordinary. It is
interesting that she noticed a change with the Hyper-grounding.
I do think I will take it to Nissan and have the complete
transmission flush.

 

spirilis,
The right passenger window moving slower has more to do with the window presenting a heavier load than normal to the motor causing the motor to pull more current/burn its insulation/reduce its life. Spray some silicon in the guide.

The sunroof motor reduces pitch because you are right, the added current load from the window motor has probably caused a voltage dip, which will reduce the power=voltage * current that the sunroof motor receives. The interior lights dim because of this same voltage dip.
This voltage dip is attributed to the transient nature of any electrical device when power is first applied. It even happens in your home when you start something with a heavy current pull.

This is most likely a transient effect rather than the ground bus being too small or resistive.


Kojiro_FtT

This is a totally different type of grounding. This requires high conductivity conduits because you are passing very high currents. This hyper grounding is more to do with source interference/delta voltages referenced at different supposed ground points which deals with small voltages and currents.


SHIFT_woosh

 

FYI, for a quick update--I took back all that Home Depot wire & connectors, and am gonna look for audio cable, possibly 8-gauge (to make it easier to route/work with)...
woosh's comment sorta dictates this--if the point of hypergrounding is more for even ground impedance between the sensors & components, then 8-gauge high-quality cable with good copper connectors should work...

 

My update:

i had around 80 feet leftover of my stinger 4awg wire, so i got some 4awg ring connectors and got to work. i was bored, and it only took me like an hour or so. pictures will be posted tonite along with a new post since this one seems cluttered. the whole car, from the battery to the left side, from front and back of engine, is grounded.

do i feel a difference, not sure. i know how i drive, and for some reason, i've been chirping second a lot more frequently. my rpm/gear changes haven't changed either, so who knows. could it be the grounding, i dunno. could also be that i removed my engine cover and the temp. in NYC dropped significantly this weekend into the 60's, causing the engine to run "peppier"

but i can say this, i'm running a pretty heavy duty audio system, so overall i feel this is more of a reassurance that my wires are being supplied sufficient ground.

next step, 0awg from the alt to the battery.
again, pictures tonite. from all angles, so no one can question what went where.

edit:i didn't use all the 4awg, that's just crazy
i used at MOST like 4 feet, nothing more.

 

I'd appreciate the pics too, as some of the grounding locations I couldn't find (didn't have the pics posted previously, though, due to the forums being down )

 

well one thing i want you to realize is this. no R&D was done to figure out the "best" grounding locations. no professional testing, voltage regulation, or anything of the sort was done when the original hyperground kit was created. i bet it was prolly some 17yo who assumed his wiring was getting old, or insufficient, and just slapped on some new wires. with that said, you shouldn't look at this with "where is that exact spot that he was mentioning" becuase it doesn't matter where you put it. what i did was follow a trail of ground points (some of what was mentioned, and some that i found on my own) that went from my battery, and then led to the passenger side fuse panel. i know for sure 2 of the ground points i used was not mentioned. is one better than the other, not at all. overall, the car was provided with better grounding points.

with that said, i'll be glad to post the pics as soon as i can. but also know that if you can't follow the location, find your best location. if you see a bolt that looks like it's easy for you to access, then guess what, that's your ground spot. my trail is as follows:

battery -->battery ground-->tranny ground SPLITS to 2 spots-->upper engine ground, lower engine ground
lower engine ground-->alternator ground
upper engine ground-->upper left engine ground-->left engine ground-->pass. side fuse relay ground

 

ok, the pictures, in order, are located here. follow each picture and you should be able to figure out where i tapped everything.

Grounding Path

 

This is also called the "placebo effect".

'Dems electrons have to flow through fuses no matter where it goes and we all know fuses are THE biggest point of resistance, right?? You could use Beryllium Copper cables as thick as your head to ground every point on the car, the electrons still have have to flow through those crappy fuses....

I rank hyper grounding right up there with the Tornado.

 

Ignorance is bliss, isn't it.

 

I am plagerizing from Gordon Gee's posts on g35drivers.com


From Turbo & High Performance Magazine Oct. 2003, the newest issue, re their 'Project 200-WHP Integra':

"Next, we installed a set of ...Hyper Ground wires. Having had great luck with most of the vehicles we tested with the ground wires on, we knew these were a sure bet for making power."

Looks like they're believers in Hyper-Ground systems since their dyno tests in the spring. Not sure about the power increase, but it seems like we G owners are seeing some of the other benefits as well.

The following is from the FAQ section of Hyper-Grounding at g35drivers.com

Hyper-Ground systems have been used in racing for many years apparently. It’s also been on “the radar” of many high-performance auto enthusiasts for a long time. NISMO, the high-performance and racing division of NISSAN Japan, have kits out for their cars.
One of the major magazine publications that cater to the high-performance crowd was also skeptical. In their April 2003 issue, they grounded 3 cars, and ran before and after dynamometer tests for horse power. They were amazed, but in each case, the cars showed improvement! In fact, a modified 1995 twin-turbo Mazda RX-7 showed a horse power increase of 15.3 at 6500 RPM!
Feedback from most people that have actually done this mod is overwhelmingly positive. Almost all report a significant improvement in engine smoothness, throttle response, and more stability in engine RPMs, especially at idle. Many report less “buzziness” and harshness of the engine at high RPM as well as improved starting. A few have reported better gas mileage, and those with 4 cylinder engines say that they no longer feel the engine “bog down” when they turn on the air conditioner. One of my clients even told me that it made more noticeable improvement in the performance of his car than when he put on a Cold Air Intake that cost him 7 or 8 times more than the Hyper-Ground system!

 

Thanks for all the info and pics cato!!!! I have an auto tranny and wonder where you ground it from and to? Thanks again!

 

I believe I see a ground point for my 2000 Auto but have not
had the inclination to do it yet. If you follow the AT fluid dip
stick all the way down to the tranny, you might see a bracket
at the base of the filler tube. I do on my 2K Max. The problem
I have getting to it is the damn air intake tubes and box that
wander all over the place. I think if we could remove the air
intake scoop and all the associated tubes and stuff, it would
be fairly easy to attach a ground wire to the bracket, then attach
the other end to the closest ground point where another
Hyper-ground wire exists. That is what I've done on my
G35. I know the air intake stuff is removeable. Stillen instructs
us to remove all that stuff when adding the Hi-Flow Intake.
It looks like alot of work to do on my wife's car, and I know
she does not appreciate it. When I drive her Max, I do appreciate
it!

 

I can definitely understand itdood's skepticism, and I know skepticism on hypergrounding is easy to come by--I'm going to try it myself soon and report my findings... but considering so many people have done it and it has WORKED, I'm willing to bet the real reasoning behind it exists, only someone needs to do some seriously deep electrical analysis to figure it out. The theory of impedances (reducing noise by providing a more even ground impedance between the sensors & parts so the noise can ground out easily without bouncing around due to varying impedances in the ground path) sounds like one possibility... but to test it would require someone with a lot of experience with RF and electronics. I doubt anyone's done some serious analysis on this topic... but such an analysis could provide more insight into the matter.

 

On my 2000 Maxima, I originally ran the ground
wire #1 fom the ground point on the chassis next
to the washer fluid neck to the upper intake
manifold ground (pt #2)pictured in pinakbet's photo
on page #1 of this thread. From there I connected
to the vacume hose bracket on the front left
intake manifold (pt#3) Here is my problem. On the 2000
Maxima, this intake manifold appears to be some
sort of hard plastic type of material. On the other
Maximas and on my G35, the intake manifold is
metal. So I move the #3 ground wire from this
"plastic" ground to the valve cover. I know this
is metal and is bolted down on the head. I would
like to move my wire #4 that continues from #3
to the rear intake manifold vacume hose bracket
to the transmission. Does anybody know why
the 2000 Max's intake manifold is black plastic
while all the others appear to be metal?

 

cato- Mine's black plastic too (2k SE). I guess Nissan decided the black resin plastic design sucked? Beats me
I do know that the VIAS system in the 2k Maximas is permanently built-into the black resin manifold, therefore making it impossible to get to... the big VIAS thread a while back involved one guy (forgot his name) having the VIAS valves actually malfunction inside the manifold... every part of the VIAS worked except the valves inside possibly were malfunctioning (he finally got Nissan to replace the manifold, and the VIAS was fixed as a result)

So maybe they changed the intake manifold design to make the VIAS and Swirl control valves serviceable?

 

All you've done so far is post hear-say and some useless quote from Turbo & High performance mag whose articles are obvioulsy influcenced by the vendors that advertise with them. If you're going to make claims like this, I think it's ignorant on your part not to back them up with legit evidence, since you are potentially leading folks down the road of wasted money and time.

 

Bull****! When documented dynos show horsepower and torque gains
and you claim it's not real, I say you are leading people down the
road of mediocracy! I suppose you need to see the dyno charts for
yourself before you will believe it? Well, I don't have the dynos in
my hand, but sport car magazines do. If you choose to not believe
in Hyper-grounding sports cars, fine! Do some research for yourself.

 

itdood... remember what your mother said "if you can't say anything constructive, don't say anything at all" Clearly you don't want to take any time to look at the possibilities of this product, so quit busting on it and go find something else to do. A lot of people her are interested in what is going on and on the g35 site and your posts are an unwanted distraction.

 

My client who is an electronics freak/geek, who also holds many electronic patents... including the remote car starting device... yeah he got a patent on it back in the 70's. He has been looking at this for me and he agrees with what is being said on both sites, I'll spare all the electronic jargon because it confused tha crap out of me, but his opinioin is good enough for me.

 

1)3-4+ magazines have dynoed them and showed gains, 2 were on VQ35s.
2)A member has dynoed them and got gains at XS-Engineering a VERY reputable tuner:



Links~~>http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=138673&highlight=Sun+ground
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=140112&page=1&pp=30&highlight=Sun +ground

3)I've never seen Turbo&High Tech Performance show Sun systems as a sponsor or even advertise their stuff.
4)Even if they have advertised ONCE for them, they've got Tornado advertisements EVERY ISSUE, but I've never seen them dyno or do a writeup on one, so there goes that theory.

I've seen MORE then enough to know it's beyond 'hype', however I don't see ANY PROOF they don't work. So, it's either your GUESSING they don't work or take the limited but ACTUAL DATA we do have for it's worth.

Like I said before, let people buy them and eventually the DATA, not guessing will show the truth.

 

Hey Guys, I'm going to buy some gage 4 or 6 wiring and do the Hyper Grounding on my 2K1 max over the week-end , I will get back to you with my impression, pics and whatever I can tell you.

Cheers

AA

 

Polo,

Do you notice any difference in your ride since the install?

cato

 

Wired mine up this past weekend, yes this mod is well worth the 20.00 something dollars it cost. Is it all in my mind that this grounding mod worked at all? No, because this mod does work I noticed an increased throttle response, smoother shifting and the idle have improved. Just to get doubts out of my mind I drove the car after the install and came home unhooked the wires and drove it again the difference was night and day the power seemed to be more linear not necessarily more power but smoother throughout the RPM band. Also note that I tested the window up and down thing rolled the two front windows down and closed them at the same time they closed much quicker with the grounding wires attached I tested this three times and every time they rolled up faster and evenly with the grounding wires attached. People can doubt this mod all they want but I’m convinced this mod is well worth the short time and money I put into it.

 

i'm going to agree with SVT. seems that it's not more powerful, but simply that there isn't any lacking power. idle is smooth, acceleration is smooth. for the $20 it cost me, i dont' think there's anything wrong with doing it, especially after seeing the engine grounds that were existing, that looked like 16-18awg wire. very very thin.

 

Way to go dude! I'm excited to hear that your grounding experience
worked. TAKE THAT itdood! I'm considering adding a grounding wire
to the ECU as well. A guy on g35drivers.com reports that with a
wire attached to the ECU, he notices twice the improvement than
with just the basic 5 wire set! It does indeed work. Would you please
inform all of us just how you made the kit, where you bought the
components! I bought my kit pre-made especially for the Max and
for the G35. I want to add a few extra wires myself.

 

Nice. FYI, I took back the supplies I was going to use to do this mod, 'cause they sucked (home depot wire == )
Just haven't picked up the stuff I wanted yet... (could probably get the wire from circuit city, i.e. monster cable, but I want decent copper lugs for the contacts...)

Now that I have the Auterra OBD-II Dyno-Scan, I'll be sure to do some sensor recordings before & after the hyperground, for some more solid evidence on the matter... (can record up to 5 sensors at once, thinking RPM, ignition timing, Air Mass, one O2 sensor, and maybe a miscellaneous value like short term fuel trim)
I'm especially interested in ignition timing (timing usually moves around a lot with various conditions in the past few runs I've done) and MAF readings...

 

The original Nissan grounds are just pitiful. Hard to
believe that Nissan knows about the Hyper-grounding stuff and yet they continue to do it the
cheap way! BTW Nissan does offer a Nismo kit for
around $200

 

my wires i got from a spool of stinger wire i had. 4awg, expert series, it's like $1.50/foot at a good shop and you only need like 5 feet. as far as the ring connectors, i went to best buy, and talked to one of them. he saw my car and was like "nice rid, blah blah, what you need" and he hooked me up, gave me a handful of 4awg ring connectors. so in actuality, this really only cost me like under $10
so yeah, go to the bay area of best buy and ask for the cheapo ring connectors, NOT the fosgate ones, it's $5 per pair. if you'r enice, they may hit you off with some for free, since they have BOXES of them.
hell, just ask them if they have any 4awg laying around, slide a few bucks their way, they'll hit you off with like 8 feet or so.

 

This is something I'm VERY curious about. Please report your findings (and suggest places to run the ground wire )

 

That is what this forum is all about! When we all work togeather, we can
figure out where to ground our Maximas. The g35drivers thread on Hyper-grounding
has lots of pictures of where the G35/350Z/Altima/Maxima VQ35 is grounded.
Ther are also pics of other vehicles grounded.
I came to this forum to find out where to best ground my 2000 Maxima.
I'm still not satisfied with my ground points. The 2000 Maxima has the
black resin intake mainfold that I had originally grounded to. See my earlier
post where I moved the ground point #3 from the manifold to the valve cover.

 

I went to fry's here in Houston and bought the lugs I think they are monster cable brand. They are gold plated lugs and come with heat shrink which is good because terminals seem to fall victim to oxidization quickly. The wire was 8 gauge Rockford Fosgate, I had this left over from a old install on my SVT still got over 15’ of this left I think I will route a cable to the ECU as noted by Cato.