OK, I cleaned my TB the other day and now my car is running like crap. I first sprayed into the TB with the car off, then turned it on and sprayed while it was running. I took off my Frankencar intake and sprayed directly into the TB. I had a SES light when I got back in the car. I disconnected the battery for an hour and the light went away. The car has much LESS power now. It will not rev as freely as before. If I accelerate about 1/3 throttle in first gear, you can feel it fall flat at 4300 rpms which I suspect is the point it switches over to the shorter intake runners. Could I have clogged or jammed the assembly that switches the intake runners over to the shorter ones? Did I not reset my ECU for long enough? In resetting my ECU, will I need to drive for some time before it performs well again? I drove about 35 miles today and it is still much less powerfull. THe car idles smoothly, and seems to run fine at lower rpms, but really falls flat in the upper ranges.

--Ray

 

check vias on search... if it just drops in power on the spot at 4300 rpm it could be a failing maf...

 

Sorry I can't help, and I know some others have used the spray-while-running method as well, but having read that entire 100 post throttle body thread and seeing your issue, plus the guy who blew his throttle position sensor at a hefty bill of $1200, I'm starting to really think that when a person cleans their TB it should be done with the engine off at all times, and use nothing but a rag and toothbrush, as specified at www.motorvate.ca Who knows though; some people say it's fine with the engine on, but I'd err on the side of caution and keep it off (I say this just in case anybody is reading your thread, and not to be down on you ).

It's too bad you couldn't ID that SES light. In regards to ECU I'd be surprised if it can't recal properly after 35 miles.

 

Did you accidently spray the MAF? Cause they are very sensitive.

 

The MAF was moved away from the area I was spraying, I am positive I did not get anything on the meter.

It seems from 4300 and up the power is down, not just at 4300.

Thanks
Ray Nist

 

but does the power drop at 4300 and then on? mine does it at 3400 and it feels sluggish after that

 

Yes, from about 4000 rpms up to redline it feels sluggish.

Is there any way to check if the VAIS is working??

--Ray

 

check the VIAS write up. USe the search. I did what it said and found out that it wasnt my VIAS. When I unplugged the VIAS, the motor had a very consistent gradual loss of power. But my problem with my car is that it suddenly loses its power at exactly 3400 rpm, which is a symptom of a failing maf.

 

OK, thanks. I do not have a consistent SES light, which you would think I would have if my MAF is bad.

THanks
Ray

 

After disconnecting the battery overnight, and putting the stock intake system back on, the car seems somewhat better. Now I am noticing a stumble/drop in power around 3300 rpms, it is most notable in 2nd and 3rd gears when accelerating about 1/2 throttle. When I sprayed the TB, the MAF was moved out of the way, so I know I did not spray the MAF, however, I touched the plastic part of the MAF that hangs down, and it was a bit tacky. I figured that if it was ruined, it would not hurt to spray it with some electronics cleaner. It did not help. Maybe it was just bad timing that my MAF went bad around the same time I cleaned my TB. Anyways, can you just buy the MAF sensor and not the whole assembly?

Thanks
Ray Nist

 

Yup, contact Dave B. -- I believe it's under $100 just for the sensor.

 

Just called Dave B, $83 for the whole assembly

That is an unbelievable price!!

--Ray

 

Don't you guys read the directions when using a "Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner"??

Here's the exact direction that was written on a bottle of STP Throttle Body & air intake cleaner:

"With Engine OFF, disconnect the air ductfrom the throttle body. Spray the throttle plate and inside throttle body with STP Cleaner. Open throttle plate and clean sealing area. Wipe Dry with a soft cloth. Reattach air duct. "

In no where did I see Spray the cleaner INTO the engine while its RUNNING. Personally I don't think thats a good idea.

 

Yeah, I shouldn't have done that, but I don't think that is what caused the problem. I will see if the new MAF corrects the problem.

--Ray

 

This is not how you clean the TB. You should take the intake off and spray while the car is off. Then, with a small brush, scrub the walls of the TB. Move the plate on the throtle very gently and scrub above an below it as well. BE GENTLE, i cannot stress this enough. Then wipe up as much as you can with a lint free cloth.

After doin this, go get a fuel cleaner with techron in it and pour it into the tank. Make sure you got at least 1/4 tankful.

Then you need to get something called a petrochemical cleaner, (keep away from all painted surfaces) and let it spray into the main vacuum line fom the brake booster. Let the whole can spray in (30 min or so). This is to clean out all the gunk from the TB cleaning u just did that got sucked down. The car will begin to knock slightly and black smoke should come out the tailpipe. DONT REV THE ENGINE. Ease back on the petrochemical. When its all finished, there should be white smoke comin out of the tailpipe.

The car will run like crap for 100 or so miles until the ECU figures out what you did. After that, get ready for great low/mid power and some serious pullin at 4300+

Wurth and 3M both make kits to do this. Or, ask your dealer about a petrochemical cleaning, they should know what it is.

 

I did the same exact thing when I first did mine. I threw an SES and it was running poorly. I would first check all your vacuum hoses in that general area to make sure they are all connected securely. I do not know the symptoms of failed MAF so I couldn't tell you. I wouldn't think electronic cleaner should be too bad though???? So yeah, check your vacuum hoses before buying a new MAF. Peace_

 

What was the cure for your car? I checked all vacuum lines in the area and their doesn't appear to be a leak.

Thanks
Ray

 

Interesting, is "petrochemical cleaner" like connecting the vacuum hose to a bottle of GM Top End Engine cleaner?

I did an experiment on an old Mazda where I poured roughly 2tbsp of ATF into each cylinder through the spark plug hole... blew white smoke for a while, drove it for 3 miles and it was blowing white smoke like crazy... then turned to a bluish smoke, then ceased altogether. Never did a compression test before and after, but fuel economy shot up ~4mpg. It also ran smoother.

 

Really no cure. The stealer reset my ECU and he knew the number of trips back that it triggered...........But, my VIAS was unplugged. I say almost try reseting your ECU again. and again. and again. Press your brake pedal after unplugging your neg batt cable and let it sit more than 24 hrs. Good luck.

 

ive got two different cans of intake cleaner and both state that it is more effective with the motor running because it help clean out the manifold. i spray into mine but i dont dump the whole bottle in. i spray it while it runs then hand clean it when its off. some in this thread have said they might have VIAS problems, they will be occuring around 5200 and not around 4k. if you have a stumble then, its probably something else. 2k2's VI opens around 4k but 2k-2k1 open at about 5.2k. i also used electronic parts cleaner to clean the maf since it had some red residue from the k&n and it worked like a charm.

 

not to be pessimistic, but i had similar power loss from 4krpm on up problems too. It turned out to be an injector going sour.

 

As it turns out, it was the MAF sensor. I got one from a salvage yard and all the lost power has been restored. I guess it was just a coincidence that it happened within 2 days of cleaning my TB.

Thanks
Ray Nist

 

Yes, but this not only cleans the top, it goes thru and cleans out the cylinder walls as well. It really made a huge difference.